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  1. #601
    Veteran Member Four Rings RAF_S7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi_rs View Post
    is there any way to lower the volume of the beep when a door is opened with the car on?
    we have a newborn and the beep can be quite loud and annoying..
    2016 A6 here.
    thanks.
    Iím not aware of any volume control, or if there is an option buried inside VCDS. You know you can cancel the warning at anytime by hitting either of the left/right arrows on the left side steering buttons.
    2016 S7 Sepang Blue ///Matrix//Bose//Self Park//Lane Assist//ACC//F&R parking cams//Blackvue DR650//Phone Box//Sunroof//Privacy glass//Carbon mirrors//Neidfaktor Steering wheel//RS Knob//OEM RS Grill//Suntek PPF//De-chromed//Roc-Euro//Modded Exhaust//Cete ASC v2 installed//APR Stage 1 on. WoW
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  2. #602
    Veteran Member Three Rings VR2V8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by denalist View Post
    I did this. I bought milltek tips and put them on to fill the cutouts a little more. Because of the way the oem exhaust is designed, if I were to do it again I wouldíve saved some money and purchased cheaper 3.5Ē tips. They fit better with the oem muffler design and I think I wouldíve been happier. The install with 4Ē tips is a PITA and 3.5Ē wouldíve alleviated the issue.



    What was involved in the install? Did they slip on over the factory tips or do they need to be cut off? Direct bolt-on or weld in place?
    '13 S4: P+, DSG, Ice Silver, Black/Black Alcantara, Nav, SD, B&O, Carbon

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  3. #603
    Senior Member Three Rings denalist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR2V8 View Post
    What was involved in the install? Did they slip on over the factory tips or do they need to be cut off? Direct bolt-on or weld in place?
    I cut my old tips off and welded the new ones on. Because of the way the oem pipes exit the mufflers(before they go into the oem tip), the 4Ē milltek tips contacted each other at the rear and I had to make angled extensions to space them further apart to get them to sit correctly.

    I would save the aggravation and go 3.5Ē, should be an easy cut and weld for any muffler shop! Happy to answer any questions.

  4. #604
    Veteran Member Three Rings 07S6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by denalist View Post
    I cut my old tips off and welded the new ones on. Because of the way the oem pipes exit the mufflers(before they go into the oem tip), the 4Ē milltek tips contacted each other at the rear and I had to make angled extensions to space them further apart to get them to sit correctly.

    I would save the aggravation and go 3.5Ē, should be an easy cut and weld for any muffler shop! Happy to answer any questions.
    They came out looking great! Would 3.5" really look larger/more aggressive than the stock ones?
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  5. #605
    Established Member Two Rings jtron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAF_S7 View Post
    Love my RocEís

    Whoa


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    2014 A6 2.0 TFSI Prem Pl | APR 93 STG II | K&N RAI | APR Downpipe | Custom 3" w Borla Mufflers | Spec 1 SPL-001 | H&R Coil Springs
    Prev: 2012 A4 S-Line

  6. #606
    Senior Member Three Rings denalist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 07S6 View Post
    They came out looking great! Would 3.5" really look larger/more aggressive than the stock ones?
    I think they would def look bigger but more of an oem plus look, which I tend to prefer.


    The four inch looked huge when I first got it done but now Iím used to it. I have to imagine some people think they look too large though. It was my first impression but Iíve come to like it. A good exhaust shop can make it work and clearly itís possible to do :)

  7. #607
    Established Member Two Rings jtron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by denalist View Post
    I think they would def look bigger but more of an oem plus look, which I tend to prefer.


    The four inch looked huge when I first got it done but now Iím used to it. I have to imagine some people think they look too large though. It was my first impression but Iíve come to like it. A good exhaust shop can make it work and clearly itís possible to do :)
    I have 3Ē black tips and they fit perfect maaaan


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    2014 A6 2.0 TFSI Prem Pl | APR 93 STG II | K&N RAI | APR Downpipe | Custom 3" w Borla Mufflers | Spec 1 SPL-001 | H&R Coil Springs
    Prev: 2012 A4 S-Line

  8. #608
    Senior Member Three Rings denalist's Avatar
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    2015 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtron View Post
    I have 3Ē black tips and they fit perfect maaaan


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    Any pics, not that I can change now but it would be a great reference!

  9. #609
    Established Member Two Rings jtron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by denalist View Post
    Any pics, not that I can change now but it would be a great reference!
    IMG_7172.JPG



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    2014 A6 2.0 TFSI Prem Pl | APR 93 STG II | K&N RAI | APR Downpipe | Custom 3" w Borla Mufflers | Spec 1 SPL-001 | H&R Coil Springs
    Prev: 2012 A4 S-Line

  10. #610
    Senior Member Three Rings denalist's Avatar
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    2015 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtron View Post
    IMG_7172.JPG



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    That fills the valence nicely.

  11. #611
    Established Member Two Rings jtron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by denalist View Post
    That fills the valence nicely.
    I agree. Turbo back 3Ē straight pipes to borla mufflers and the shop threw those in for free


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    2014 A6 2.0 TFSI Prem Pl | APR 93 STG II | K&N RAI | APR Downpipe | Custom 3" w Borla Mufflers | Spec 1 SPL-001 | H&R Coil Springs
    Prev: 2012 A4 S-Line

  12. #612
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAF_S7 View Post
    Iím not aware of any volume control, or if there is an option buried inside VCDS. You know you can cancel the warning at anytime by hitting either of the left/right arrows on the left side steering buttons.
    thanks! will try that

  13. #613
    Active Member One Ring
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    2015 Audi Q5
    Location
    Denver

    Iím sure itís been done but has anyone removed the factory clear bra behind the front wheels? If so was it simple? Iím sure I can just peel it off but donít want to start and realize the hard way. Thanks. IMG_9879.JPG


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  14. #614
    Veteran Member Three Rings tenspeed's Avatar
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    Honeoye NY

    Quote Originally Posted by S4S5_Driver View Post
    Iím sure itís been done but has anyone removed the factory clear bra behind the front wheels? If so was it simple? Iím sure I can just peel it off but donít want to start and realize the hard way. Thanks.
    I removed my shield on the drivers side. I replaced it with white vinyl. Taking it off was easy. It's peels off like any other vinyl.
    2012 A7 3.0T Prestige, Ibis white/Nougat/Ash, 20" Sport, ACC, LED, HUD, Ferrada FR2 wheels, AWE Touring exhaust, Adam's Drag II rotors, BlackVue dash cams

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  15. #615
    Established Member Two Rings GID's Avatar
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    on the underside of the trunk lid, there is a little knob that opens a long skinny cover. Whatever is inside it is empty in mine so I have no idea what's supposed to be in there. It looks like some sort of tool; maybe a lug nut wrench? What's in there?
    2016 A7 - Dakota Gray

  16. #616
    Established Member Two Rings
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    2015 B9 A5 Cabio
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    I believe that skinny compartment is storage for an emergency triangle. That is an extra...of course. Someone correct me if wrong.

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  17. #617
    Established Member Three Rings
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    My car only has an indentation; no cover. And yes, German cars have that for the afforementioned tirangles required in Europe.

  18. #618
    Active Member One Ring
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    2015 Audi Q5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tenspeed View Post
    I removed my shield on the drivers side. I replaced it with white vinyl. Taking it off was easy. It's peels off like any other vinyl.
    Thanks!!!!


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  19. #619
    Established Member Three Rings
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    This post is more of being too dumb not to know of a feature I just found out while cleaning my car. Hope I wasn't the only one. Ha ha. But let's see. There's a hidden compartment of pretty good size under the driver's seat (swings down), right below the thigh extension. Its handle is also in the middle, just below the one for the thigh extension. Hope it helps some brothers.

  20. #620
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin1's Avatar
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    Long Island

    So does the passenger seat
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  21. #621
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    Not on my 2018 US car with sport seats. Maybe other markets, or with the comfort seats.

  22. #622
    Veteran Member Three Rings VR2V8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elptxjc View Post
    Not on my 2018 US car with sport seats. Maybe other markets, or with the comfort seats.
    Same here. I have the storage compartment only on the driver's side.
    '13 S4: P+, DSG, Ice Silver, Black/Black Alcantara, Nav, SD, B&O, Carbon

    Akebono Ceramics, AWE Boost Gauge, AWE/GIAC Stage 2 + DSG, AWE Touring Exhaust & Res DP's, BO Grille, CR-15, Deval CF Lip & Diffuser, Ecodes, Eurocode Alu Kreuz & Sways, Euro Visors, Folding Mirrors, H&R OE, Hoen Xenonmatch Fogs, Ocarbon Dash Trim, Retrofit Labs Signals, Roc-Euro Intake, TSW Bathurst 19x9.5 et39 & Michelin PSS, Underseat Bins, Warning Triangle

  23. #623
    Active Member One Ring mkinn's Avatar
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    2017 A7, 1997 Limited 4Runner
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    Elk Grove, CA

    With European Delivery, they put the warning triangle in there. They also give you a first aid kit and the reflective safety vests.

  24. #624
    Established Member Two Rings
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    2016 RS7 questions. I've read most of this thread, but forgive me if these have been asked before.

    1.) I have tried every combination of swiping my foot under the trunk but it never budges. Is it possible that I just do not have that feature at all?
    2.) According to the manual (and in other, older cars I've been in), I think I should have the "overhead" camera...but I only get the animated version. There is no option for "Graphic" like I've seen on some screenshots. Does this mean I just don't have that, and only have the animated one?
    3.) The active lane assist icon is sometimes yellow and sometimes green but I can't seem to find out what this means.
    4.) Is there any way to make the car not beep like crazy when the ignition is on and the door is open (other than closing the door )? It's really annoying.
    5.) Will the adaptive cruise control start the car back up at a light? i.e. it stopped me at a light and the car in front of me takes off, or do you always need to hit the gas?

    Thanks!
    2016 RS7 Glacier White
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  25. #625
    Established Member Two Rings justcured's Avatar
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    2013 S7 (Quartz Gray); 2000 Jaguar XKR Coupe (British Racing Green)
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    See below for a few answers.


    Quote Originally Posted by JamesB41 View Post
    2016 RS7 questions. I've read most of this thread, but forgive me if these have been asked before.

    1.) I have tried every combination of swiping my foot under the trunk but it never budges. Is it possible that I just do not have that feature at all?
    2.) According to the manual (and in other, older cars I've been in), I think I should have the "overhead" camera...but I only get the animated version. There is no option for "Graphic" like I've seen on some screenshots. Does this mean I just don't have that, and only have the animated one?

    I don't think any of the '7s has the overhead camera.

    3.) The active lane assist icon is sometimes yellow and sometimes green but I can't seem to find out what this means.

    Lane assist only works from 40 mph up. The icon will always be yellow below 40 mph as well as when the system cannot "see" lane lines. Green means it is working. Yellow means turned on but not working.

    4.) Is there any way to make the car not beep like crazy when the ignition is on and the door is open (other than closing the door )? It's really annoying.

    Tap either left or right arrow button on the left side of the steering wheel.

    Or close the door.

    5.) Will the adaptive cruise control start the car back up at a light? i.e. it stopped me at a light and the car in front of me takes off, or do you always need to hit the gas?

    From a full stop, it requires input to start moving again. Either tap the gas lightly or pull the cruise stalk toward you and release ("resume" function).

    Thanks!

  26. #626
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Thank you! Very much appreciate it. Shame about the overhead camera view...it's pretty great.
    2016 RS7 Glacier White
    2012 S4 Glacier White 6MT Prestige (sold)
    VCDS cable in Amherst, NY

  27. #627
    Veteran Member Four Rings ericw.'s Avatar
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    Any reason why I couldn't (or shouldn't) use a fluid extractor on an Audi S7 to do an oil change? Is there a screen in the hole where the dip stick would go?

    Figured I'd ask before I order a fluid extractor.
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  28. #628
    Established Member Two Rings
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    In the RS7 is there any "happy medium" with the exhaust crackles/pops? I feel like in sport mode literally any time I let off the gas at all it does it, but in regular drive it never does. Manual kinda hit or miss. Pretty stupid question, just curious. I like them a lot but it can be a bit much in any kind of traffic.
    2016 RS7 Glacier White
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  29. #629
    Established Member Three Rings
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    The 'crackles' happen when engine braking, and the more aggressive it is, the more it does it. In auto, only sport mode does aggressive engine braking, but it's not that aggressive. If you want more, you need to do it manually, and in sport mode. Finally, with stock exhaust, you barely hear it, but you can actually hear it a little. Once you remove the 'suitcase' it becomes louder. And if you also remove the other resonators, then even more, but some cabin noise is reportedly added. The 'crackles' are achieved by the ECU injecting fuel when decelerating, mimicking carburetors. Hope this helps.

  30. #630
    Established Member Two Rings
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    It does help, thanks. And yeah, it seems to coincide exclusively with engine braking. It's pretty obvious to me when it's doing it, but I'm not entirely certain how it sounds outside the car. Sometimes I like the responsiveness of the gas pedal in sport mode but I'd rather it didn't 'crackle' so often. Think I'm just gonna try a bunch of different combos until I find one that sits the best.
    2016 RS7 Glacier White
    2012 S4 Glacier White 6MT Prestige (sold)
    VCDS cable in Amherst, NY

  31. #631
    Active Member One Ring
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    Hey! Tried searching and blowing through this thread.

    I just got a 2015 s7 and Iíve noticed that the back up camera is very difficult to see at night. Itís as though thereís not enough light from the reverse lights to illuminate the ground.

    Do I need to replace the bulbs or is there something Iím missing here?

  32. #632
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    I'd like to ask a dumb question. With all the turbo failures, want to understand how they work. In theory, at the same rpm, the turbos will spin at the same speed, regardless of engine load, correct? Now, at light load, they'd be making basically no boost, just free-wheeling, correct? And under load, when getting on the throttle (same rpm), there'd be making boost. But what's the difference between no load and under load? I'd assume the boost puts pressure on the bearings, and heats them up more, but why are they failing by destroying the impellers, rather than bearings giving out? Something doesn't add up. Curious if it's a lack of coolant, lack of oil, or both. But again, the bearings should fail first. Curious what's the real issue, and if there's a way to save them, like when to run the car at idle before shutting it down. Only when running it hard? Or always? I rarely push it hard at high rpm (not really needed with all that down-low torque), but travel a lot on it, and run it 90 to 100 a lot of those miles... but rpm are less than 3K, and in V4-mode even at those speeds, so obviously not stressed. And yes, will change oil at 5K and 0/40, to maximize lubrication and minimize oil breakdown. Thx.

  33. #633
    Established Member Four Rings OlyS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elptxjc View Post
    I'd like to ask a dumb question. With all the turbo failures, want to understand how they work. In theory, at the same rpm, the turbos will spin at the same speed, regardless of engine load, correct? Now, at light load, they'd be making basically no boost, just free-wheeling, correct? And under load, when getting on the throttle (same rpm), there'd be making boost. But what's the difference between no load and under load? I'd assume the boost puts pressure on the bearings, and heats them up more, but why are they failing by destroying the impellers, rather than bearings giving out? Something doesn't add up. Curious if it's a lack of coolant, lack of oil, or both. But again, the bearings should fail first. Curious what's the real issue, and if there's a way to save them, like when to run the car at idle before shutting it down. Only when running it hard? Or always? I rarely push it hard at high rpm (not really needed with all that down-low torque), but travel a lot on it, and run it 90 to 100 a lot of those miles... but rpm are less than 3K, and in V4-mode even at those speeds, so obviously not stressed. And yes, will change oil at 5K and 0/40, to maximize lubrication and minimize oil breakdown. Thx.
    Some thoughts going around on these are that the bearings are most likely giving out first, leading to some 'shaft play' and the impellers contacting the housing, leading to the shattering. Seems likely some combination of starvation of oil and coolant due to the lines not feeding the turbos properly; ie the lines getting 'gummed up'. Thoughts are that the more frequent oil changes with high quality oil like you mentioned may be helpful. It may also be helpful to inspect and/or clean and/or replace those lines whenever you see crud building up around their connection points. All conjecture, but seems sensible. The majority of folks reporting issues seem to have 2013 S6s, and the majority have been doing oil changes at factory intervals, typically using whatever the dealership or shop is putting in there. Many of us feel that Audi's oil change interval recommendations are much too long for our particular cars, which also brings to mind other long intervals, like the transmission fluid! (life of the car? - what if the lack of changing transmission fluid causes the death of the car?)

    I know the Audi engineering team is amazing, but their obligation/objective is to have parts last as long as the warranty lasts, especially given that many folks don't hold on to cars that long anymore.
    2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE intake and touring exhaust| APR downpipes| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2.

  34. #634
    Established Member Four Rings OlyS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericw. View Post
    Any reason why I couldn't (or shouldn't) use a fluid extractor on an Audi S7 to do an oil change? Is there a screen in the hole where the dip stick would go?

    Figured I'd ask before I order a fluid extractor.
    Many folks use a mityvac to do an oil change on S6s and S7s. The only real additional issue is that you still need to raise the car and pull the belly pan to change out the filter anyway, so questionable timesaver. The A6 has the oil filter up top, so then no need to raise up the car at all if you use a mityvac. Folks will argue the relative merits of draining everything through the bottom of the pan, but not certain of the evidence against using a mityvac (unless of course, you neglect to change the filter underneath the car).
    2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE intake and touring exhaust| APR downpipes| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2.

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