Timing belt won't go on! Too much tension

[Arnie91]

Spent the last few hours trying to get this damn timing belt on. It's a gates racing belt. I've compared it to the old one and they are both the same length.

I either get way too much tension where it's supposed to be slack so that the roller can tension it up thus I can't slip it over the water pump, or, the tension on the right side of the timing system (cam sprocket to crank sprocket) is way too tight and I can't get it over the tensioner roller.

The DIY on audizine says to just slip it over the water pump, but everywhere else I've read says that the right side needs to be tight, not slack, otherwise it won't be tensioned right.
I can put the belt on with it being slack on the right side but I'm worried about the belt slipping or snapping on start up.


I'm ready to give up on this twatting belt

[Arnie91]

I've managed to get the belt on and the right side is tight. I have an issue with the cam sprocket not lining up to my markings by 1 tooth. The lobes are falling to the centre so I can't get it bang on my markings. I've moved the crank sprocket by half a tooth in the same direction. I think I read somewhere that this was okay to do?

[KHARDa4]

I roll the crank back some then put the belt on. Then when you tension the belt it should pull the crank forward.

[Ian1006]

I roll crank back by one tooth then put the belt on the right side then turn crank back 1 tooth and it takes the slack out and everything lines up but it is a tight fit

[Arnie91]

But the issue is the cam sprocket is off by one tooth because it won't stay at the position I turn it too. it pulls backwards

[thomastollar]

If I remember correctly I only put one of the bolts in for the tensioner, which enabled the belt to go on more easily, putting the second bolt in after having the belt in place.

[Arnie91]

Ive got the belt on correct. Im trying to use my needle nose pliers to turn the tension tab to point to the bottom right. As I tighten the nut on the roller tensioner the tab gets pulled to the left? I removed my 8mm allen key from the gap and the tensioner closed instantly. Im not sure when and how im supposed to release the locking plate and why the tab is moving when I go to torque down the nut.

[Arnie91]

Settings before torquing down the nut. Good tension on the belt on both sides.

upload pic

after trying to torque down the nut to 25nm. The belt has slackened

free upload

[old guy]

You have to hold the pointer plate in position so it doesn’t move when you tighten the nut.

[Arnie91]

You have to hold the pointer plate in position so it doesn’t move when you tighten the nut.

Jesus. lll try using some big pliers, those needle nose ones were bending and its steel..

[5ktq]

looks like the two holes are there for snap ring pliers (err well probably some VW tool #nnnnn with two pins on a flat..)

[Arnie91]

looks like the two holes are there for snap ring pliers (err well probably some VW tool #nnnnn with two pins on a flat..)

I'll give it a try tomorrow with some big grips failing that I'll have to look into getting the tool grrr..

[old guy]

I'll give it a try tomorrow with some big grips failing that I'll have to look into getting the tool grrr..

There is a special tool (VW3387) for adjusting the tensioner but it really isn't necessary. Just use pliers or an adjustable wrench. Clicky click®

[EuroxS4]

Why not go to the updated tensioner setup from conti tech.Same as a 2.0fsi.Easier to tension line up and set wit ha 13mm nut and no hydralic tensioner to fail??

[Arnie91]

Cheers Lads. Pulled the plate and got a healthy 9mm tensioner gap. Belt is good.

[16vCorey]

The same tool that's been used on pretty much any VW timing belt tensioner fits it. I've had this one for probably close to 20 years, and it fit my B6 like a glove.

[16vCorey]

And yes, it's a VERY tight fit to initially get it on the pulley. It goes on easier if you start working it on at the bottom of the cam gear and go up, though it's harder to ensure you get it on correctly that way, since that's the side of the belt that's supposed to have the slack.

[Arnie91]

Why not go to the updated tensioner setup from conti tech.Same as a 2.0fsi.Easier to tension line up and set wit ha 13mm nut and no hydralic tensioner to fail??

Couldn't find it available anywhere near me, but i'll look into it for my stage 2/3 build.