Purge air from coolant while system is full?

[RLB6]

So, I may have air in my coolant system due to the recent PLM kit install and not having access to a vacuum refill tool. Does anyone know if we can simply use the vacuum tool to remove coolant from the system while it's full or is it necessary to drain the coolant first.

Tool I'm referring too: Coolant Refill/Air Purge Tool

[whiped]

Have you tried using the bleeder screws on the SC?



There's another one under the plenum cover as well.

[RLB6]

Yeah, I've tried that method as well. Now, which other under the plenum are you referring too?

[whiped]

See the last bit of this post: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...al-photos-tips!

[RLB6]

Here? Sorry but I'm not sure I'm following.

[14S4GWM]

^ That's not the last bit of the post

[RLB6]

Still mentions nothing about a bleed screw under the plenum. I only know of the 2 on the supercharger

[whiped]

Sorry, guess it is just a hole not a screw.

My loops is divorced so I never actually performed that step when bleeding mine. Excuse my ignorance.

[Lensch09]

How do you know that you have air in the system?

I got my supercharger to bleed. I didn't even have to give the car revs. Just make sure you're on flat ground.

-DL

[RLB6]

I ran a few logs and the IATs were in the mid 50s Celsius on a 70 degree F day and I'm sure the kit should due much better to reduce IATs than that.

[LittleDozer]

I ran a few logs and the IATs were in the mid 50s Celsius on a 70 degree F day and I'm sure the kit should due much better to reduce IATs than that.

Were you driving spirited at all? My car got up to 65 Celsius while doing pulls when I was just single pulley E85 with HX.


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[S4'ed]

"Under the plenum cover" means the black plastic "leaf guard" cover between the base of the windshield and the forward firewall. Under the cover are the heater hoses. There is a bleed hole on the upper hose, where is slides onto the metal mating nipple. Loosen the hose clamp and pull the rubber hose back about an inch or so till the hole is exposed, and then the air can be bled out.

If you are going to use the vacuum fill tool, you will have to dump all the coolant out first, and then pull vacuum, then refill.

[RLB6]

Yeah, I've bled the heater hoses as well. I was hoping to be able to vacuum the coolant out then fill again.

[RLB6]

Were you driving spirited at all? My car got up to 65 Celsius while doing pulls when I was just single pulley E85 with HX.


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Ok so my IATs would be normal? Hmm. Just thought hat was pretty high for having an upgraded HX.

[Turbocoop]

When bleeding my system I couldnt get coolant fully flowing through those two hoses at the firewall even after the T-stat opened until I held the RPMs at about 2K for 3-5 minutes. After that it was easy to bleed through the small hole on that upper hose...

[scottycs]

Hmmmm. I Just bled the coolant from the top of the HX and kept the heat on high. Never messed with the S/C or heater hose. Usually air the system is pretty obvious when you turn the heat on max, it will not blow hot when the heat passes through.

[whiped]

Hmmmm. I Just bled the coolant from the top of the HX and kept the heat on high. Never messed with the S/C or heater hose. Usually air the system is pretty obvious when you turn the heat on max, it will not blow hot when the heat passes through.

I did this too but not all of the HX's have a bleeder screw on the top.

[Lensch09]

I ran mine and allowed the car to idle with the heat on high. Make sure the car is flat on the ground.

I idled the car with the coolant overflow cap off, and opened up the following bleeders:
Res-tank/pump (fills first in the fenderwell)
Heat Exchanger (fills second)
Supercharger (both screws, fills last)

Worked for me.

-DL

[RLB6]

I'm definitely not having any heating issues as it blows hot quickly in the cabin. I guess I'm just imagining the IATs would be a bit lower than what I've seen. When I finished the install, it took nearly 2 gallons of G12/water to get the levels back to normal.