O34 adjustable UCA's users

[Dolphin S4]

Just about to do adjustable upper control arms from 034 (rubber bushing on one side type) on my B6 S and noticed some people having issues.
Just wanted to lay out all the issues before installing them that people are having.
I feel like I need these control arms because of the severe Inner tire wear I had last season.
I'm lowered on H&R springs. Just a FYI.
Thanks in advance

[Lucca M]

Yeah quite a bit of users had serious issues like bolts backing up etc. i went with stern ones.

[Dolphin S4]

Yeah quite a bit of users had serious issues like bolts backing up etc. i went with stern ones.

That sounds really scary wish I could get the full details on these

[034Motorsport]

What issues have you noticed people encountering? We're happy to answer any questions or concerns you have, and just about all of us that own a B5, B7, B7 or C5 here run these arms on our own vehicles.

We've been selling our B5/B6/B7/C5 Density Line Adjustable Upper Control Arms for many years, and they have been installed by hundreds of 034Motorsport customers and dealers in that time.

The one critique/comment we get occasionally is that they are a bit more work to install than a turnbuckle style arm, but the benefit of the rod end style we chose is that alignment creep is eliminated. In addition, the rod end outers are less prone to bending or deformation than arms which have a centrally-located threaded adjustment.

On a related note, make sure you take a look at the toe settings for your car as well, as that can have a significant impact on inner tire wear, even if your vehicle doesn't have excessive negative camber.

Yeah quite a bit of users had serious issues like bolts backing up etc. i went with stern ones.

I'm not really sure what bolts could back out, as the kit uses factory hardware to install. The only bolts used in the AUCAs themselves are meant to secure the safety washers to the pins, and I can't recall a single instance of those backing out.

We specifically designed these to use steel safety washers and bolts at the pins, as it is inherently stronger in this application than options which rely on a circlip to retain the spehricals in the outers. They are a very practical and high-strength design in terms of construction, with Billet Aluminum Arm Bodies, Density Line Inner Bushings, Genuine Aurora Spherical Rod Ends, and Stainless Steel Pins & Safety Washers. All of the items with the exception of the arm bodies themselves are available separately for rebuilding the arms as needed.

Hope that helps!

- Laszlo

[pwest15]

What issues have you noticed people encountering? We're happy to answer any questions or concerns you have, and just about all of us that own a B5, B7, B7 or C5 here run these arms on our own vehicles.

We've been selling our B5/B6/B7/C5 Density Line Adjustable Upper Control Arms for many years, and they have been installed by hundreds of 034Motorsport customers and dealers in that time.

The one critique/comment we get occasionally is that they are a bit more work to install than a turnbuckle style arm, but the benefit of the rod end style we chose is that alignment creep is eliminated. In addition, the rod end outers are less prone to bending or deformation than arms which have a centrally-located threaded adjustment.

On a related note, make sure you take a look at the toe settings for your car as well, as that can have a significant impact on inner tire wear, even if your vehicle doesn't have excessive negative camber.


I'm not really sure what bolts could back out, as the kit uses factory hardware to install. The only bolts used in the AUCAs themselves are meant to secure the safety washers to the pins, and I can't recall a single instance of those backing out.

We specifically designed these to use steel safety washers and bolts at the pins, as it is inherently stronger in this application than options which rely on a circlip to retain the spehricals in the outers. They are a very practical and high-strength design in terms of construction, with Billet Aluminum Arm Bodies, Density Line Inner Bushings, Genuine Aurora Spherical Rod Ends, and Stainless Steel Pins & Safety Washers. All of the items with the exception of the arm bodies themselves are available separately for rebuilding the arms as needed.

Hope that helps!

- Laszlo

I've actually not been thrilled with my 034 arms. I'm not here to bash at all, I just want to voice the concerns I've had with my arms. 034 makes some stellar products and I know for certain that they put tons of R&D into their stuff which I really appreciate and value as a buyer making a decision. I'm very happy with all the 034 products on my car except my arms.

I only have a few issues with them but here they are. Firstly, I've found that mine make quite a bit of noise. I've triple checked all of my suspension components' torque specs and I'm certain it's the arms. The noise only occurs when stationary and at very low speeds. Typically when I'm navigating the parking lot in my townhouse complex. I get very sharp pops and clicks when I turn the wheel which I've deduced is from the ends of the joints on the arms hitting the steering knuckle every time I turn the wheel. No noise occurs when the wheel is held in a direction, even at lock. Only when I turn the wheel. These same noises like to happen especially when I go over the myriad of speed bumps that are unfortunately placed around my parking lot. I'm always gentle on them but the noises occur none the less and it seems to be the arms making contact with the strut hat.

My other issue is something that only happened once but was a very scary ordeal. The bolt that Lucca mentioned (the one that goes through the spherical end to the pin held into the knuckle) backed itself out on the road while driving and the control arm popped off the knuckle, hitting the roof of the wheel well. I'm certain without a doubt that the bolt was torqued after the install but it managed to back itself out anyway. Regardless, I've only had that happen once because I made sure to put loctite on all of those bolts after that incident but I would've done so in the first place if 034 would've recommended it in the instructions or something. The bolts have to be removed to adjust the camber but once the camber is set, some loctite on the threads is a good idea.

What concerns me, especially about that last issue is that I know at least two other people who've experienced just that. I'll link a short discussion about the issues that occurred in my build thread but it's disappointing to see that two other people, one of which I know personally, have had one of those bolts back out while driving on the highway and almost causing them to crash. Only 034 can speak to the possibilities that would've caused this to happen whether it be an issue with manufacturing tolerances or whatnot.

In my thread here post number 224 quotes Corey and I bringing up the noise issue and we kind of disscuss it and the bolt issue until post number 229

Unfortunately, I do think I'll be switching over to the SPC or Stern arms shortly because I have to daily drive in my parking lot over those bumps and the noises coming from those arms just drives me crazy. However, like I mentioned, I'm not trying to name-call or bash 034 because that won't accomplish anything. I do just want to share my story with the arms because I think it's important for potential buyer to now that there may be some noises associated with the arms and that they should definitely coat the bushing bolts some loctite after the proper camber is set.

[MugelloB7RS4]

I've had my 034 adjustable upper control arms for 4 years now without issue on my RS4. I live in Canada where they salt the roads heavily thus I've had to replace the heim joints twice. Not at all 034's fault.

These arms may make noise but you have to remember that you're using a spherical heim joint. This is the best type of joint there is. The trade off is a bit of noise. I couldn't care less about the noise because I know they work well. Other than replacing the heims because of salt contamination I've had no issues. I still feel they are the best on the market as of now.

I see the OP is in Cape Breton. I'm heading down to Antigonish tomorrow so I know the type of weather you guys get. 034 do supply dust boots that will help keep salt and crap out of the joint, but it's not perfect. No seal is.

I have seen a thread where someone installed the arms backwards, so 180 out of rotation and it made some clearance issues, but as long as you're aware and make sure to put them in the right spot shouldn't have other issues.

Like pwest15 said, not a bad idea to loctite the bolts once alignment is completed, however I've not had the same issue.

[evildsmr]

Hey guys!

Thought I would contribute here because I have experienced the same problems with these control arms as pwest15 had mentioned. I was driving down the highway and one of my control arms popped off. Causing me to have to call AAA. One of the bolts that holds the spherical to the heim joint managed to back itself out. I personally am going to switch to either OEM control arms or like pwest said the stern ones. I just think the profile of the 034 joints are too high where connected to the steering knuckle. Also after the arm popping off I use liberal amounts of loctite to reconnect them back on. I think for the future 034 should recommend loctite when installing these arms. Just my .02

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[0396]

Guys, thanks for posting your experience. I'm happy that for you that were driving on the freeway that you did not crash. I was thinking about having my Audi dealer install these same 034 UCA. But I simply had the dealer performed alingment. Dealer mentioned that they had to readjust the cradle ( its called something else) ..that baby runs great with factory- 2.1 degree of negative camber- with 45 lbs of air in the front wheels and 42 in the rear.
Just sharing my experience.

[034Motorsport]

I've actually not been thrilled with my 034 arms. I'm not here to bash at all, I just want to voice the concerns I've had with my arms. 034 makes some stellar products and I know for certain that they put tons of R&D into their stuff which I really appreciate and value as a buyer making a decision. I'm very happy with all the 034 products on my car except my arms.

I only have a few issues with them but here they are. Firstly, I've found that mine make quite a bit of noise. I've triple checked all of my suspension components' torque specs and I'm certain it's the arms. The noise only occurs when stationary and at very low speeds. Typically when I'm navigating the parking lot in my townhouse complex. I get very sharp pops and clicks when I turn the wheel which I've deduced is from the ends of the joints on the arms hitting the steering knuckle every time I turn the wheel. No noise occurs when the wheel is held in a direction, even at lock. Only when I turn the wheel. These same noises like to happen especially when I go over the myriad of speed bumps that are unfortunately placed around my parking lot. I'm always gentle on them but the noises occur none the less and it seems to be the arms making contact with the strut hat.

My other issue is something that only happened once but was a very scary ordeal. The bolt that Lucca mentioned (the one that goes through the spherical end to the pin held into the knuckle) backed itself out on the road while driving and the control arm popped off the knuckle, hitting the roof of the wheel well. I'm certain without a doubt that the bolt was torqued after the install but it managed to back itself out anyway. Regardless, I've only had that happen once because I made sure to put loctite on all of those bolts after that incident but I would've done so in the first place if 034 would've recommended it in the instructions or something. The bolts have to be removed to adjust the camber but once the camber is set, some loctite on the threads is a good idea.

What concerns me, especially about that last issue is that I know at least two other people who've experienced just that. I'll link a short discussion about the issues that occurred in my build thread but it's disappointing to see that two other people, one of which I know personally, have had one of those bolts back out while driving on the highway and almost causing them to crash. Only 034 can speak to the possibilities that would've caused this to happen whether it be an issue with manufacturing tolerances or whatnot.

In my thread here post number 224 quotes Corey and I bringing up the noise issue and we kind of disscuss it and the bolt issue until post number 229

Unfortunately, I do think I'll be switching over to the SPC or Stern arms shortly because I have to daily drive in my parking lot over those bumps and the noises coming from those arms just drives me crazy. However, like I mentioned, I'm not trying to name-call or bash 034 because that won't accomplish anything. I do just want to share my story with the arms because I think it's important for potential buyer to now that there may be some noises associated with the arms and that they should definitely coat the bushing bolts some loctite after the proper camber is set.

First and foremost, I'm sorry for the issues you are experiencing. Feel free to reach out to us directly so that we can assist with any replacement or rebuild parts needed as a result of the bolts backing out.

We highly recommend professional installation of these arms. Density Line Adjustable Control Arms were released back in 2009 when we did not have thorough Installation Guides for every product, and it sounds like they certainly could benefit from that. I will make it a priority to make a user-friendly installation/alignment document for these arms to address a few of the less-than-intuitive parts of the process.

Thread locker is absolutely required for the allen bolts going through the safety pins. The product notes do reflect the torque requirement, as well as the need for thread locker: "Tighten M10 pan head allen bolt to 45 ft/lbs with blue loctite." That note has been there since at least 2013 from what I can find, and likely since we released the arms. However, I understand that can be missed without a dedicated installation document.

Regarding the noises, I'd check to see if there are any signs of contact with the knuckle or strut hat. The arms are designed to be run at sock length or longer (for camber correction) and if you run them with the heims threaded all the way in, there is reduced clearance at the knuckle. I'd also verify that the arms are installed in the correct orientation, as they shouldn't be anywhere near the strut hat, unless your car is extremely, extremely low. Please let me know what you find, as I'd be more than happy to assist.

Also, if you want to run the arms at a shorter length than stock, we can modify them accordingly for you.

[simple_king]

Im on air ride with these and ride very low. I was fooled by reading about other people problems online about these and Sterns. I had a serious clunking and jarring ride. I installed brand new struts and all control arms. Still clunked like crazy. I read about people having clunks from Sterns so I sold them and got 034 arms. Clunking still existed but now Im following people thinking the design was bad. Fast forward and Im clunk free now with a dynamic feeling car like never before. I received defective front struts that caused the clunking. My 034 arms don't make any noise and not a single bolt has backed out. Im no professional but I made sure to torque all bolts and made sure they where super tight. Bolt backing out sounds like a install error.

[Stevos555]

interesting observation. I started on 034 and went to sterns after dealing with a rebuild of the 034's and expensive alignments.


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[Dolphin S4]

Thanks guys I recently got rid of my 034 adj arms because my car is a daily. Stuff backing out like that is life or death while driving. Not worth the risk

[0396]

Thanks guys I recently got rid of my 034 adj arms because my car is a daily. Stuff backing out like that is life or death while driving. Not worth the risk

+1. Detail installation notes " should" have been provided in BOLD print with all these UCA - period! As in Life and Death.

This kind of error, reminds me when I pick my new S4 from the old Audi dealer in Woodland Hills Ca.

The IDIOT parts dept gave me the wrong set of all weather mats. During the first month of ownership while getting on the freeway in the AM, the accelerator pedal got stuck with the floor mat! I could not stop it with the brakes, when I put it in neutral..engine redline. I ended up turning the ignition swith ONE notch to turn off the engine! I did not turn any further- as it will lock the steering wheel! Again, DO NOT turn any further as steering wheel will lock. If my family was driving, they would have crash and possibly died- just like the driver in a Lexus the driver and family crash on the freeway died in San Diego California about seven years ago from a floor mat stuck on the accelerator!! Safety first on the streets