Desperately need help, problem with timing!

[B6_A4_Kid]

Hey guys, I have a 2.7t that I was doing the cam tensioner seals (half moon). And when doing the drivers side I was putting the cam gear back on and like an idiot I didn't put the timing belt on. Anyways I was using an impact and it spun the drivers side exhaust cam. I for the life of me cannot get the cam and pulley to line back up with the marks I made on the timing belt cover. I desperately need help asap! This engine is going into a b6 and needs to be done in a week! Please help me out!


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[Monty23]

Reset timing the correct way. It only takes about 5-10 min. loosen the cam cogs and reset the hydraulic timing belt tensioner. Set the motor to TDC with the crank lock pin, line the cams up using the cam bar. Install the belt, release the tensioner, pretension the timing belt to 15 Nm, and then tighten the cam cogs. Remove the crank pin and cam bar and rotate the crank a few revolutions and recheck timing.

[insomniacxp1]

Any more info would be help full. Did you use the crank lock pin? was crank at TDC? Before gunning on the cam gear were the chain alignment marks on the back of the head correct?


Edit: ^Posted mine a min after the above ones. Follow the above post for correct procedure.

[B6_A4_Kid]

That's the thing, the tool we have makes it to where the cams are 180 degrees out. Because the larger stud is on the outside on the car, and the larger studs are on the inside of the tool.


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[getslideways]

That's the thing, the tool we have makes it to where the cams are 180 degrees out. Because the larger stud is on the outside on the car, and the larger studs are on the inside of the tool.

The tool is supposed to have the Larger holes facing the center:

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...34-10-2012.pdf
Page 5

Make sure the larger holes in the propeller-like securing plates at the cam sprockets face toward the center of the engine. If they do not, turn the engine 360° and align the crank marks again. Install the cam locking tool temporarily to check correct cam position.

Sounds like you needed to spin your crank another time around.

Just reset the timing via monty's advice, and you will be fine. You can get away with fewer steps, but most importantly is to spin the motor over by hand several times and ensure your marks still line up without effort. If you have to pull/pry the cambar to fit, your timing is likely off.

When doing things like this it is always a good idea to mark your belt and cam gear, or ziptie the belt to the camgear. The cam "ears" are keyed to only fit on one way, so the cam gear itself is a little less important since it has essentially infinite positions anyways. If your crank is lined up, the cam ears are aligned with one another, and the belt is tensioned, you should have little to worry about. Spin it by hand over to TDC, fit the cam bar and crankpin, and if all lines up again after a few manual spins, you are in business.

[B6_A4_Kid]

Well the thing is we think the tdc marks were true, but they could have not been. We put the cams in and have the cams timed, but like I said it was 180 degrees out, so we will get the new TB we will crank it by hand, how much force should it take? We really don't want bent valves


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[getslideways]

Keep in mind each cylinder has a compression stroke and an exhaust stroke. So the motor is not always at Top Dead Center just because the crank lines, line up. It could be 180 off. The crankshaft has to rotate twice to complete one full combustion cycle.

Down, Up, Down, Up
Intake, Compression, Ignition, exhaust

So the crank will line up twice per cycle, and will alternate TDC, 180 OFF, TDC, 180 OFF, TDC, 180 OFF, TDC, 180 OFF, etc etc etc

The cams spin at half the speed the crank does. Its not a 1:1 ratio. For every 1 rotation of the crank, the cams spin 1/2 way around and vice versa (1 camshaft rotation equals 2 crank rotations) so that is why the crank mark can line up, but still be 180 off.

Look at this image to help clarify what I am talking about. Notice that each time the crank mark is at the bottom what is happening in the cylinder can be one of two different things. That is why the crank can be in the right "spot" but still be need to be rotated one more time. 180 off is in regards to the combustion process (or cam position), not the crank being physically turned 180 the wrong way. That sometimes confuses people. This is why the cambar has different sized holes/pegs, so it will only fit on one way, and not when the motor is 180 off:

[B6_A4_Kid]

Thanks for that! We got this all squared away, we did have to go buy one of those cam lock tools. But atleast it's good now, thanks a ton guys for the help! Really appreciate! And happy thanksgiving to you guys also!


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