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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2012
    AZ Member #
    100791
    Location
    Easton, PA

    Question DIY Rear Brakes: Why is a battery charger needed? Using Carista for svc. position.

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    I've searched the forum for the exact question to this question...Why is a battery charger needed to replace the rear rotors and pads?

    I understand the EPB needs to be placed in the service position and there is a very specific procedure if using VAGCOM.

    But, I'm planning on using the latest version of Carista which has an option to retract the EPB. Do I still need to hook up a battery charger? I really need to understand WHY because it's not making sense to me that the EPB will somehow draw down battery voltage during the time it takes to change rotors and pads.

    What am I missing?

    I'm tempted to just remove the EPB motor and retract the EPM using the TORX 40 bit by hand avoid the whole headache. But, I'd prefer to do it the "right way".
    2012 S4 Premium Plus | Phantom Black | Black/Silver Nappa | Carbon Atlas | 6MT | Sports Diff | Advanced Key | 18" OEM Wheels | Rear Side Airbags | V1 Hardwired | Roc-Euro Intake | Borla Exhaust | CR-15 Strut Brace | Up next...BBS CH-R 18"

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings bayonet14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 07 2013
    AZ Member #
    120474
    My Garage
    BMW 335i
    Location
    Pinelands NC

    If it takes you that long to change rear brake pads to hook up a battery charger - the your battery is about dead anyway.
    Just did mine w/Carista - once it retracts the rear pads... thats it - switch the ignition off and swap your rear pads - Once complete - turn ignition on a activate the brakes

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings UberBrute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    138108
    My Garage
    E91 BMW 328xi 6MT
    Location
    Connecticut

    the epb motors are very voltage sensitive apparently and can be easily damaged. Hooking up a charger prevents any voltage drops that might cause a problem. When I did mine, i watched a ross tech video that explained how the motors are 350 something dollars a piece. In my mind it was better to buy a battery tender jr (30ish dollars) and hook it up while I did the pads than to risk 700 dollars in epb problems. Besides, a battery charger isn't the worst thing to have around the house. Lastly, if you do screw up an EPB motor, now your car is stuck until you get it towed or have someone drive you to a dealer or get the part shipped. The charger is really just cheap insurance.

    https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...tery+tender+jr
    SOLD 2013 Audi S4 | 6MT | Estoril Blue Crystal | Premium Plus | MMI Nav Plus | Sports Differential | Carbon Atlas Inlays | Alcantara inserts | 19" Peelers |

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings tjenne69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    383754
    Location
    Washington, IL

    I just did mine with Carista, no charger, and no issues.
    2013 S4 Prestige Volcano Red | ESC Luft-Technik Intake | ESC X-Pipe | EPL Stage 1 +DSG | RS4 Grille

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings cjw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    348229
    Location
    Alberta

    I didn't use a charger either. It's maybe a 20-30 minute job. Living on the edge!
    2013 Lava Grey S4 S-Tronic
    Injen, EPL DP (3.2 ratio) +TCU, Magnaflow Catback Back to Stock, PLM HX

  6. #6
    Account Terminated Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 28 2016
    AZ Member #
    375269
    Location
    US

    No battery charger here either. Turned ignition to On position and retracted the EPB then turned the ignition to Off and left the key in the car. Did fronts and rears at same time since I was also rotating tires. This included pads and rotors, so it took a while. No issues. When done, I turned the ignition back to On and cycled the EPB in VAGCOM again to close them back up to the new pads. Unhooked laptop and then cycled the parking brake a couple of times just to make sure no issues. Then drove to break the new pads in. If you're worried about the voltage, then just simply unhook the plugs on the motors after you retract them. No more worry and there's no way they'd cycle back down since there's no power going to them now.

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2012
    AZ Member #
    100791
    Location
    Easton, PA

    Thanks all. I know how to change pads and rotors.

    Normally, I don't have a battery charger connected when my car is just sitting there in the garage and the parking brake is set. So, what is happening during a brake and rotor change that is somehow causing voltage to drop requiring a battery charger? I understand if using VAGCOM the key is in the on position, the EPB motor is running in the beginning and the end which draws power.

    But if I'm using Carista, the battery charger seems unnecessary.
    2012 S4 Premium Plus | Phantom Black | Black/Silver Nappa | Carbon Atlas | 6MT | Sports Diff | Advanced Key | 18" OEM Wheels | Rear Side Airbags | V1 Hardwired | Roc-Euro Intake | Borla Exhaust | CR-15 Strut Brace | Up next...BBS CH-R 18"

  8. #8
    Account Terminated Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 28 2016
    AZ Member #
    375269
    Location
    US

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Tuttle View Post
    Thanks all. I know how to change pads and rotors.

    Normally, I don't have a battery charger connected when my car is just sitting there in the garage and the parking brake is set. So, what is happening during a brake and rotor change that is somehow causing voltage to drop requiring a battery charger? I understand if using VAGCOM the key is in the on position, the EPB motor is running in the beginning and the end which draws power.

    But if I'm using Carista, the battery charger seems unnecessary.
    Did you read my previous post. Even if you were using VAGCOM, you don't need to leave the car On. Retract the damn motors and then turn the car Off. Then unplug the plugs on the rear brakes and do about your process until you're done. Then hook the plugs back on and then turn the car On and lower do the second process to reengage the motors back down on the new pads. Simple. Doesn't matter what you use to do the electronic process for back them out and back in.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2014
    AZ Member #
    140204
    Location
    United States

    i just jumped it with a battery.... /shrug

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