2003 A4 B6 1.8T Quattro needs a new motor :(

[RileyM]

Hello All, I got the dreaded low oil pressure light. That is sadly not my problem. Turns out I am not the first individual to open up my motor! Pulled the head to replace a head gasket, do the timing belt. Piston #2 is newer than the rest, and my cylinder wall either has a crack, or a terrible gouge. I love this car, and would like to keep it running, less than 90k on the car. I like my avant.

My Question: Best place to get a remanufactured or rebuilt motor?

Or (and I don't favor this) do I cut bait and run?

[eljay]

If it's not cracked, can you just machine it to a 2.0L?

BTW, I have no idea if that's a good idea and it's probably more expensive route than just an engine swap. So, I'd find a good 1.8T somewhere local and swap them.
If you pulled the head, sound like you have more skills than I and engine swap shouldn't be that much more work.

[ADCS]

Obligatory '2.7 swap' comment.

[RileyM]

I would love to save the block, bore it out, but it is beyond that sadly, or I would have loved to.
Also, there is no 'local' Audi anything. 2+ hours East or west.

The 2.7 would be amazing but, that is to many monies.

Want to do the coil pack upgrade, maybe the injectors and tune if there is money left over.

[blitz2190]

Around here there are a few places that can get you a used motor for 300-500, check http://www.car-part.com to get an idea of scrap yards near you, and look for a part out on craigslist

[RileyM]

That is excellent, thank you!
What is the difference between the two when it asks: AT from VIN 040000, or AT from 040001 ?

[fR3ZNO]

VIN split regarding engine code, up to VIN 040000 is AWM and AT from 040001 is AMB. Just make sure you get an engine with the same engine code and you'll be fine. You can see what engine code you have by looking at front driver side corner of the valve cover. It's stamped into the head.

[seanf86]

VIN split regarding engine code, up to VIN 040000 is AWM and AT from 040001 is AMB. Just make sure you get an engine with the same engine code and you'll be fine. You can see what engine code you have by looking at front driver side corner of the valve cover. It's stamped into the head.

Cause he has a 2003 they're both amb engine but there was a PCV split in 03 so that's probably what it is, it definitely isn't awm vs amb

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4...ine/Emissions/

[5ktq]

that must be when they switched the box (probably when they switched to B7 also)

2005, vin 400001 is the first B7 I think

[seanf86]

that must be when they switched the box (probably when they switched to B7 also)

2005, vin 400001 is the first B7 I think

2005 is 400000 the 03 split is 040000

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

[egovreau]

There's also a late-AMB engine, which split occurred in the 2004 model year. :-)

Sent from the 7th Galaxy.

[RileyM]

Well, after more research, I think it is the final digits of the vehicle VIN of which my car falls into the 040001 and up category. Not a lot of info on quality remans out there. There are quite a few 80-90k used motors. Well while the wife does the Christmas shopping this weekend, I may be engine shopping!

[RileyM]

Well, I have a used motor on the way!
What repairs should/could be done to this motor before I put it back in?
Current plans:
Timing belt and water pump. (Original reason for tearing things apart.)
Oil pump and pickup.
Anything I may regret soon not doing now? I am working out a few other plans for upgrades while it is apart, just trying to divvy up the money.

[egovreau]

If it were me, I would take the time to disassemble the engine, inspecting rings, cylinder walls, valve seats, guides, etc. Replace that which looks dodgy and reassemble with new gaskets. At a minimum. If you have designs to go BT, upgrade the bottom end. I've read on occasion that it really isn't necessary, but couldn't hurt.

If it was me.

Sent from the 7th Galaxy.

[blitz2190]

If it were me, I would take the time to disassemble the engine, inspecting rings, cylinder walls, valve seats, guides, etc. Replace that which looks dodgy and reassemble with new gaskets. At a minimum. If you have designs to go BT, upgrade the bottom end. I've read on occasion that it really isn't necessary, but couldn't hurt.

If it was me.

Sent from the 7th Galaxy.

way over kill, at most do a compression test and replace the headgasket since you'll be doing the timing belt anyways, this will let you inspect the cylinder walls for scoring, to the info above I could never recommend re-using the rings so if you pulled them for inspection they would need to be replaced.

[RileyM]

Well I still have a new head gasket, so that shouldn't be an issue! What about replacing the head bolts? Is that a concern with these motors? Thanks again for all the info. Not thinking BT anytime soon, stage 1 for now.

[old guy]

You should replace the head bolts. They are stretch bolts and typically they should only be used once.

[EuroxS4]

Hello All, I got the dreaded low oil pressure light. That is sadly not my problem. Turns out I am not the first individual to open up my motor! Pulled the head to replace a head gasket, do the timing belt. Piston #2 is newer than the rest, and my cylinder wall either has a crack, or a terrible gouge. I love this car, and would like to keep it running, less than 90k on the car. I like my avant.

My Question: Best place to get a remanufactured or rebuilt motor?

Or (and I don't favor this) do I cut bait and run?

How do you know the engine is fucked???Why do you say piston #2 is newer??Is it cleaner then the rest??Perhaps that cylinder is pissing coolant into the cylinder??Either way I would check your oil pressure switch and wire going to it.If thats good,I would do a compression and leak down test first.Make sure your not down on compression.If your planning on saving the engine.Low oil pressure light is not a big deal as long as the engine is not knocking.Drop the oil pan.Remove pickup tube for oil pump.If clogged with debris.Burn the remnants out of the pickup screen or replace the pick up tube.It would be wise to replaced the oil pump as well.As long as you dont see any metal in the pan or oil i'd say your good to go.If you see pieces of plastic on the pan or pickup tube you will need to inspect the cylinder head chain tensioner and the guides.These cars had oil sludge problems and low oil pressure lights due to their 10k oil change intervals and lack of quality oil being used.As long as its not sludged you should be alright.

Always start with the simple stuff.Never assume the worst 9 times out of 10 they can be saved.Unless the're knocking in the bottom end then chances are shit is donezo!!

[RileyM]

How do you know the engine is fucked???Why do you say piston #2 is newer??Is it cleaner then the rest??Perhaps that cylinder is pissing coolant into the cylinder??Either way I would check your oil pressure switch and wire going to it.If thats good,I would do a compression and leak down test first.Make sure your not down on compression.If your planning on saving the engine.Low oil pressure light is not a big deal as long as the engine is not knocking.Drop the oil pan.Remove pickup tube for oil pump.If clogged with debris.Burn the remnants out of the pickup screen or replace the pick up tube.It would be wise to replaced the oil pump as well.As long as you dont see any metal in the pan or oil i'd say your good to go.If you see pieces of plastic on the pan or pickup tube you will need to inspect the cylinder head chain tensioner and the guides.These cars had oil sludge problems and low oil pressure lights due to their 10k oil change intervals and lack of quality oil being used.As long as its not sludged you should be alright.

Always start with the simple stuff.Never assume the worst 9 times out of 10 they can be saved.Unless the're knocking in the bottom end then chances are shit is donezo!!

We pulled the head, there are two deep gouges in the piston wall. You can also see where the piston rings were not rubbing against parts of the cylinder wall near the gouges. I bought a lemon basically. The oil pressure would stay high when cold(55), but then would not go above 27 psi when warm. So that is definitely part of the problem. It was cleaner than the rest, especially due to the damage previously done when the piston hit the head. However there are no marks on the piston where it hit the head. Just the coolant leaking onto the piston. I could have run it longer, but I don't trust it. Reliability is most important.

Duly noted on the head bolts. I'll add that to the list.

[rocket1420]

Oil dipstick tube. Thermostat. Coolant flange. Valve cover gasket. CCT gasket. Intake/exhaust gaskets. PCV system from the oil filter to the back of the head. Get a whole timing belt kit, not just the water pump and belt. Unless it already has the new style tensioner. Accessory belt. Oil change. Spark plugs.

[RileyM]

Oil dipstick tube. Thermostat. Coolant flange. Valve cover gasket. CCT gasket. Intake/exhaust gaskets. PCV system from the oil filter to the back of the head. Get a whole timing belt kit, not just the water pump and belt. Unless it already has the new style tensioner. Accessory belt. Oil change. Spark plugs.

I'll compare that with what I already have ordered. Thank you!

[rocket1420]

I'll compare that with what I already have ordered. Thank you!

No problem. Check this kit out too: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...-18l-058198012

Even has valve seals and both cam seals (which you should also add to the list).

Head bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...olt-06a103385a

[RileyM]

Thanks for all the help, finally getting things taken apart, the snow here has been too much! This is the wife's car, taken immediately prior to it being dug out of it's snow plowed prison.

The gouge on the right was the most worrying. The build will follow on another thread.

[tegraphile]

My B5 A4 1.8T sent the internals through the oil pan at 105K. Looking back, I should have just replaced the motor and been done with it. Good luck!