3.0 questions...

[19jdog]

I know the firing order is 1 4 3 6 2 and 5

My question is, is the number 1 cylinder suppose to be up or down.




Also what's the best way to prepare for new head gaskets? I used 500 grit sandpaper. Is that OK?

My cylinder heads are at the machine shop being resurfaced. The guy suggested I use
Cooper gasket spray.

I

I have a machinist straight edge coming from Amazon.

[Spike00513]

On another car, IDK if I even used sand-paper. Or metal razor blade.
But rather plastic one with Permatex Gasket-Remover to remove old residue.

I heard copper gasket spray is generally used to just at least help the gasket stay on without falling off, while you position the head over it.
Also heard the term "shellac" before but I'm not sure.

Wonder if it came with any install instructions. For example, for shaft seals (corteco, reinz, etc.) they may come with a folded packet, or have it listed online.

[19jdog]

On another car, IDK if I even used sand-paper. Or metal razor blade.
But rather plastic one with Permatex Gasket-Remover to remove old residue.

I heard copper gasket spray is generally used to just at least help the gasket stay on without falling off, while you position the head over it.
Also heard the term "shellac" before but I'm not sure.

Wonder if it came with any install instructions. For example, for shaft seals (corteco, reinz, etc.) they may come with a folded packet, or have it listed online.

What about the #1 cylinder?? Up or down?

[DarkoNova]

What do you mean up or down? As in, up towards the top of the bore or down towards the bottom?

If you have the timing mark on the balancer lined up for TDC, the #1 piston should be at the top of the bore.

[19jdog]

What do you mean up or down? As in, up towards the top of the bore or down towards the bottom?

If you have the timing mark on the balancer lined up for TDC, the #1 piston should be at the top of the bore.

That's what I'm getting at. #1 is at the bottom. BDC??? #3 is at the top. I thought #1 was supposed to be TDC

[DarkoNova]

You're probably just 360° out. Rotate the crank until the mark lines up again.

The mark will line up twice per "full revolution", once at TDC on the compression stroke, and I think again at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Basically the crank turns twice as fast as the cams.

If the mark is lined up but cylinder #1 is at the bottom of the bore, that doesn't sound right. Just rotate the engine clockwise until the marks line up again and #1 should be at TDC.

[john_gonzo]

"TDC on Audi V6's has always been funky. The TDC position is actually TDC of cylinder #3 (USA passenger side, nearest firewall). This was true for all the 2.8 12v, 2.8 30v, the venerable 2.7T, and the 3.0. You are not alone in your confusion. It's just an Audi thing." - walky_talky20

TDC-on-a-3-0

[SJorge3442]

Also just for others to know. If you're a rotation out, the cam locks wont(shouldn't) fit into the grooves on the cams. Almost a fool proof way of setting timing.

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[Protection]

"TDC on Audi V6's has always been funky. The TDC position is actually TDC of cylinder #3 (USA passenger side, nearest firewall). This was true for all the 2.8 12v, 2.8 30v, the venerable 2.7T, and the 3.0. You are not alone in your confusion. It's just an Audi thing." - walky_talky20

TDC-on-a-3-0

This^^^
If you are aligning the timing mark on the harmonic balancer, #3 is at TDC. Of this I am positive. You will want to align the heads by using a wrench on the flat sections of the cams, so that you can install the cam lock tool. It may be necessary to do this before putting the heads back on. Otherwise you will have to be very careful you don't damage the valves by turning the cams with #3 at TDC. IIRC, there is a procedure where you turn the crank sprocket another 30 or 40 degrees past TDC, so no piston is at the top when you put the heads on. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the Elsawin files now.


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[DarkoNova]

Well damn, I stand corrected.

Germans always gotta make shit difficult.

[SJorge3442]

Well damn, I stand corrected.

Germans always gotta make shit difficult.

Right? Every other engine in the world basically is piston #1 at top at TDC. I'm sure theres a reason for them adjusting the firing order for some reason, but who knows why.

[19jdog]

Much thanks for the info guys!

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[SJorge3442]

Much thanks for the info guys!

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hey, how'd the job go? I woke up this morning with another cold start misfire on cylinder 3, making me believe its time to do a head gasket. Not really excited to do the job, but its clearly gotta get done. Did you have to remove the cams to have the head decked?

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[19jdog]

hey, how'd the job go? I woke up this morning with another cold start misfire on cylinder 3, making me believe its time to do a head gasket. Not really excited to do the job, but its clearly gotta get done. Did you have to remove the cams to have the head decked?

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It went ok. I wouldn't do it unless you have water coming out of the exhaust and oil in the coolant. I had both. I basically rolled the car on to wheel ramps and went to work. The hardest part is the rear metal coolant lines to the cylinder heads, and removing the downpipes. I bought a electronic ratchet which made removing fasteners much easier. My machine shop guy said I was lucky cause he did not need to remove the valves to resurface the heads.

[SJorge3442]

It went ok. I wouldn't do it unless you have water coming out of the exhaust and oil in the coolant. I had both. I basically rolled the car on to wheel ramps and went to work. The hardest part is the rear metal coolant lines to the cylinder heads, and removing the downpipes. I bought a electronic ratchet which made removing fasteners much easier. My machine shop guy said I was lucky cause he did not need to remove the valves to resurface the heads.

Would you say the hardest part about the coolant pipe is simply just getting access to the bolts? I know the DPs are a bitch. I've been burning oil recently and I'm thinking it could be the valve seals, and at the same time, I think these seals could be worned enough at this point that i could be having oil drip into the cylinders. First step is to test the coolant and move forward. Whatever picture, tips, tricks you have from your experiences would surely go a long way for not just me, but the rest of the 3.0 owners here.

[19jdog]

Would you say the hardest part about the coolant pipe is simply just getting access to the bolts? I know the DPs are a bitch. I've been burning oil recently and I'm thinking it could be the valve seals, and at the same time, I think these seals could be worned enough at this point that i could be having oil drip into the cylinders. First step is to test the coolant and move forward. Whatever picture, tips, tricks you have from your experiences would surely go a long way for not just me, but the rest of the 3.0 owners here.

Yes most definitely, those little 4mm bolts are a pain!!!! On my 1st head gasket job I removed the SAI and the coolant lines. My last attempt I did not remove the SAI until the head were off. Just make sure you mark all the connections with a colored paint marker. Buy 4 colors. As for the OEM downpipes the 6, 13mm nuts are a PITA. I pulled my motor when I did my TIP to 6 speed swap just because of them. I couldn't get any leverage to remove them, cats are in the way.


I will always help, post up or shot me a pm.