2001 S4 - Found Me ?

[cu52]

I have always wanted another B5 S4 since I sold them 6 years ago when we had our first child (paid for him!).
A guy I work with mentioned he needed to sell his wife's S4 as she is no longer able to drive. Took a look at it today but had some concerns from what he was asking.

UPDATE. I BOUGHT IT!

What does everyone think for fair price based on the below information, Scan and coolant reservoir - mixed pink and green coolant or something else? pictured below?

I need to do some troubleshooting without spending too much money since this is not my car (yet?).

So far:
N75 has 9 OHM

Planning the following:
Compression test
Coolant Flush
Verify wiring at EGT's, N75 and Coolant temp sensor(oil pan).

2001 S4 Casablana White
6 speed manual
Interior great except for drivers seat bolster
Exterior Excellent condition
79,500 Miles


SCAN INFO HERE:
Friday,11,November,2016,23:02:33:32267
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 16.8.3.1 (x64)
Data version: 20161010 DS267.0
www.Ross-Tech.com




Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B5 (1995 > 2002)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
Part No: 8D0 907 551 H
Component: 2.7l V6/5VT G 0002
Coding: 06711
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 2F73C298ED63473A15-515A

3 Faults Found:
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit
17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235)
P1453 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236)
P1457 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus
Readiness: 0010 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8D0-907-389.lbl
Part No: 8D0 907 389 E
Component: ABS/ESP allrad D46
Coding: 04395
Shop #: WSC 06435
VCID: 357FF0F00F3F7DEA5F-515A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8D0-820-043-1D.lbl
Part No: 8D0 820 043 P
Component: A4 KLIMAAUTOMAT D57
Coding: 00160
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 2D4FD890E76F352A27-2598

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8D0-959-655-AI8.lbl
Part No: 8D0 959 655 G
Component: Airbag Front+Kopf 1002
Coding: 00304
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 3A65E3CC26219292B2-515A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8D0 920 980 R
Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D09
Coding: 02264
Shop #: WSC 20213
VCID: 3A65E3CC26219292B2-515A

2 Faults Found:
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl
Part No: 8L0 862 257 N
Component: CV-Pump D11
Coding: 16140
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 4091912440FDC842FC-4EB0

7 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
00991 - Interior Lights
28-00 - Short to Plus
00955 - Key 1
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
00956 - Key 2
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 4B0-951-173.lbl
Part No: 4B0 951 173
Component: Innenraumueberw. D03
Coding: 00101
Shop #: WSC 20213
VCID: 60D171A4E03DA842DC-4B64

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 4B0-907-357-AUT.lbl
Part No: 4B0 907 357
Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER D004
Coding: 00012
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 65DF60B0FF1FCD6A2F-51D0

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8D0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 8D0 035 195 A
Component: Radio D00
Coding: 00116
Shop #: WSC 06325
VCID: 24593DB4B4A5F462F8-4B64

No fault code found.

End---------------------(Elapsed Time: 04:08, udsna)-----------------------

[millerchris85]

Has it ever had a timing belt change? Is that coolant original?

Suggestions - Might also want to check valve covers and oil pan for leaks. Check the axles and control arms. Add pressure/boost check to your list.

Depending on how much you DIY, I would think $1500 to do timing belt, coolant flush and reservoir, and N75/EGT/other things. Estimating high unless it's all shop labor. What would worry me is the borderline neglect, so more issues may lie ahead.


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[cu52]

Has it ever had a timing belt change? Is that coolant original?

Suggestions - Might also want to check valve covers and oil pan for leaks. Check the axles and control arms. Add pressure/boost check to your list.

Depending on how much you DIY, I would think $1500 to do timing belt, coolant flush and reservoir, and N75/EGT/other things. Estimating high unless it's all shop labor. What would worry me is the borderline neglect, so more issues may lie ahead.


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Thanks for the extra suggestions. All the work will be DIY. Found some details on service records through MyCarfax...

Timing belt at 50k - 2008 (on the list based on time)
Coolant flush, Upper control arms at 55K 2010
Serviced at local Audi dealer pretty much every 5K.
Been sitting about 1 year.

Does appear Passenger rear valve cover is leaking.

Going to try to get the detailed records tomorrow or Monday.

[S4 John]

The mileage and color combo is awesome! The codes don't look too concerning, typical B5 things. You could negotiate that into the price to replace the egts, n75, 02s, oil level sensor and the central locking pump. The thing that is concerning to me is the coolant. It is hard to tell by the picture, but it looks like oil and coolant have mixed together to get that "milkshake" appearance. Did you remove the oil cap and look at the color of the oil? That car could have some serious issues like a blown head gasket.

It is hard to tell what an appropriate price at this point. You don't know all the issues. If it was a mint casa (rare) with 79k miles it could be worth a lot to the right buyer. But, without knowing all the issues it could be very inexpensive. I think you need to dig into it a little more before making any decisions.

[Corradovolksb]

That's a clean looking car. The oil cooler is bad causing oil to leak into the cooling system causing the coolant to look like that. It's a pain in the ass to flush it all out but it will give you a good excuse to replace the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and oil cooler all at the same time. You will need to flush the heater core with clr or a similar type cleaner because oil will build up in it. I can't remember what the resistance should be but the n75 could be faulty or there is a wiring problem. The egt sensors can be coded out via a tune and I can tune it for you if you want. If you want to replace them they are not too bad to do if you have the right tools and the sensors are not super expensive.

[Seerlah]

If coolant not in oil, it is the oil cooler gasket [edit: beat me to it ). I would replace the cooler altogether. Problem is garden hose water flush can only do so much. I would research best way to flush all the film that oil left behind in the system. I conjecture it will effect your cooling capacity on your heat exchange (radiator). I suspect cooling passages on the block will just bake the film till it flakes off. All guesses, though.

And it seems 1/2 cup Cascade dish detergent to a gallon warm distilled water is the way to go. Internets to the rescue!

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2623282

With the shorts, I would first try looking for cracks near the connectors and butt connect and heat shrink them. Radio Shack has a draw full of goodies. And in this draw of goodies are perfectly sized butt connectors (ie 18 gauge wire). Electrician store will have cheap heat shrink tube in like 3 foot sections. I keep a bag of the butt connectors at home and redid my injector section of harness for EV14 connectors with these (reminded me I need to restock). If not for that, then corrosion on the contact points creating resistance. I don't own a 2.7t but I'm thinking the 9ohms is on the low side. The aforementioned should cure that, and save you money along the way.

Spent money on 2 engine harnesses before I got smart, manipulated an auto harness (3rd time's a charm) to work on my car. Made a DIY in my section for this. But...they are all junk, crack, get brittle, etc. Just redo and reroute away from the heat. When I redid my injectors, the wires not sit by the intake manifold vs the exhaust manifold. Could it be so simple?!?!

I don't know, just try and save cost where you can. But you captured a Unicorn in the wild. Congrats, sir!

[cu52]

Update:

I took it for the first test drive yesterday. turbos were pretty damn loud and "drill sounding". Got here to operating temperature and busted out the habor freight compression tester. Pulled Fuse 28 for fuel pump, pulled all coils and spark plugs. 10 cranks per cylinder and only got 120 PSI on all???? Rented a unit at Orielly - 90 PSI... Rented another from advanced 120 PSI.. Either I am not getting a good seal or headgasket is a problem. Might try another gauge from another store.
Am I doing something wrong? 10 cranks, Pedal to the floor, gauge in hand tight to rubber o rings?


There are two cracks in the bottom of the coolant reservoir causing it to drip quite a bit of fluid. Could this be due to excess pressure from a faulty cap or worse, exhaust gases entering cooling system?

Both outer CV boots are torn and throwing grease.

Pulled the belly pan and found that the coolant has been leaking for sure, appears there is an issue at the oil cooler as suspected above. Then I decided to pull the intercooler hoses...
Drivers side:


Passenger side/driverside mess


I am not finding any issues at the connectors or the wiring at the connectors for the N75 or the Oil level/temp sensor. Anyone know how to test the oil level sensor? OHM rating etc? N75 is actually at 33 OHM I recall 25-35 is acceptable. So there has to be a wiring issue somewhere.

I have not spent any time on the EGT's yet.

Pretty gutted with the news about the Turbos, but that means she has Stage 3 written all over it!

I was hoping to have a dollar amount figured out to take this beauty off his hands. Any thoughts based on this?

[Seerlah]

Not to be that guy...but low ball him. Shop work is expensive, but you are a DIY guy and it will still cost a pretty penny. Mileage is low, but work to get back to par is pretty extensive. I would offer $1,500-3,500. Values change with area too, so you have my number for what I would offer around my way. You can get Stage 3s that need a little loving around my way for $5-8k...but fully running.

[millerchris85]

Personally I wouldn't pay more than $1000 for it. It seems like there are issues everywhere you look, so there's likely more to be found.


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[zatch_303]

Those are pretty low. Just saying.

[Seerlah]

I'm only being that nice because of the low mileage. Owner knows it will cost money to fix and is trying to dump it.

OP, do a wet compression test.

[cu52]

Well in the process of finalizing the details and $, but this S4 will be mine. 1 of 86 according to AOA.

Going to spend a little money to replace the oil temp/level sensor, oil cooler, flush the coolant system several times with distilled water and replace the coolant reservoir so I can get a better overall idea of the health. I figured that I could not pass on this with the color and how amazing the body / interior was.

Now I have to decide if I want to repair to stock and do Stage 2? or Some form of Stage 3. SO many more options now than there was 6 years ago when I did stage 3 minus.

[Seerlah]

Stage 3 and keep forever!!! When engine gets old in mileage, think what you want to do then (ie rebuild with Tial 770s ).

That is a Unicorn and doubt next owner will appreciate it. It will turn to junk in the wrong hands...found in a yard years later, maybe!

[JustManson]

Lots of projects from what your giving us updates on.

So many and the car isn't even yours yet.

Now that you have an idea of what is in front of you I'd get a professional estimate from a local shop and use that to get the car at a really low price and build it up.

Good luck your going to need it!


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[Lanorg]

Guess you found out why his wife can't drive it anymore... low mileage casa should be revived!

[KSEADUB]

Update:

Am I doing something wrong? 10 cranks, Pedal to the floor, gauge in hand tight to rubber o rings?

Pedal to the floor isn't going to open the throttle plate on a DBW vehicle. Try it again with the butterfly valve blocked open or with the intake mani off.


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[AudiTechS4]

Update:

I took it for the first test drive yesterday. turbos were pretty damn loud and "drill sounding". Got here to operating temperature and busted out the habor freight compression tester. Pulled Fuse 28 for fuel pump, pulled all coils and spark plugs. 10 cranks per cylinder and only got 120 PSI on all???? Rented a unit at Orielly - 90 PSI... Rented another from advanced 120 PSI.. Either I am not getting a good seal or headgasket is a problem. Might try another gauge from another store.
Am I doing something wrong? 10 cranks, Pedal to the floor, gauge in hand tight to rubber o rings?


There are two cracks in the bottom of the coolant reservoir causing it to drip quite a bit of fluid. Could this be due to excess pressure from a faulty cap or worse, exhaust gases entering cooling system?

Both outer CV boots are torn and throwing grease.

Pulled the belly pan and found that the coolant has been leaking for sure, appears there is an issue at the oil cooler as suspected above. Then I decided to pull the intercooler hoses...
Drivers side:


Passenger side/driverside mess


I am not finding any issues at the connectors or the wiring at the connectors for the N75 or the Oil level/temp sensor. Anyone know how to test the oil level sensor? OHM rating etc? N75 is actually at 33 OHM I recall 25-35 is acceptable. So there has to be a wiring issue somewhere.

I have not spent any time on the EGT's yet.

Pretty gutted with the news about the Turbos, but that means she has Stage 3 written all over it!

I was hoping to have a dollar amount figured out to take this beauty off his hands. Any thoughts based on this?

Damn by the pic of that bumper I'd buy it lol hasn't rammed it up on any curbs. That's not a crazy amount of oil . Seen more and seen less . To me 6k seems fair. That's a car you won't find again.

[MacDaddy]

id take the cost of the car if it was running right, minus the cost of repairs and then you have a ballpark offer. He wants top dollar, we all do but keep in mind the car has been very under-maintained.
The money he saved not maintaining is now they money he wont make selling.

[cu52]

Guess you found out why his wife can't drive it anymore... low mileage casa should be revived!

Actually she has health issues, partly why it has such low mileage.



She is mine, just need to hit the DMV this week to get the title into my name so I can legally drive it.

So far have replaced the coolant sensor, oil temp/level sensor, oil cooler, oil and working through a distilled water coolant flush so I can make sure the system is clean. It is taking forever. So far 12 gallons through the system, getting cleaner. Going to try to pick up some EGT's this week and a B1S1 O2 sensor as that has come up on a test drive.

Really need to sell this 325i Now, so I have some build money.

[S4gasm aka LOTR]

That car is a mild disaster, i would be concerned that this car was heavily neglected. That oil looks awful, i'd be concerned about sludge, pull the valve covers asap. So many issues that you might discover soon. Good luck man.

[cu52]

Made some progress in the last two weeks. Replaced the EGT Sensors, B1S1, and coolant temp sensor behind B1. I got the temp registration and received the title in the ail. DMV screwed up and added 100K to the mileage, so I get to have fun having them fix that!

Drove it for about 50 miles. Thermostat is stuck open not allowing the car to get to operating temperature, not able to get over 72c. Given the last timing belt was at 50K and 8 years ago I ordered a timing package, valve cover gaskets, fuel filter, outer CV boots and a control arm. RMeuropean has great prices, and local so I can swing down and pick up the parts next day.

Also picked up a Very good priced GIAC Stage 1, and a boost gauge.

Decided to start getting the repairs under way:
Replaced the outer CV boots and have taken the front end off and am diving into the timing, valve covers and intake manifold gaskets.

new problems...

The 6mm hex head in the fan clutch pulley was seized, so I had to drill that out, so now the hex head is stuck in the pulley. Should I replace that pulley or do an electric fan swap?

When disconnecting the spider hose from the B2 valve cover it broke, super brittle (4th hose or plastic T that has broken so far...) Might do the F hose delete in this case and order a new spider hose.

appears the power steering hose has been leaking below the manifold, going to try to get that all cleaned up and sealed.

Will be working on the Valve covers, timing belt kit and replacing lots of brittle parts as they break or are discovered/easy to access.




hex head stuck in pulley...

Front end, serpentine belt and intake manifold removed.


Power steering line leak

Broken Spider Hose

[zatch_303]

Bump and good luck for a local b5 s4! Most issues look like they come with the territory due to the age of the car. The mileage is stupid low though, great find! How did you find out from AoA that it was 1 of 86? Just shot them an email with the VIN? Good luck with the car and maybe I will see you around town. I have a slightly more sparkly and slightly less white sport package b5 s4 sedan :)

[cu52]

Bump and good luck for a local b5 s4! Most issues look like they come with the territory due to the age of the car. The mileage is stupid low though, great find! How did you find out from AoA that it was 1 of 86? Just shot them an email with the VIN? Good luck with the car and maybe I will see you around town. I have a slightly more sparkly and slightly less white sport package b5 s4 sedan :)

Thanks, When he said he needed to sell and Audi, I asked which one, he said S4, then I said what year.. told me white, 2001 79K....I knew I was buying it!!

I chatted with Audi here to get the quantity of this Combination for 2001, he could not get me a more detailed brakeout that included 00 or 02 with out a "VIN" for those years. :https://go.activengage.com/s/sites/s...ww.audiusa.com

As promised, I am following up with you to provide the sales numbers for this vehicle. These can be found below:
• 4,823 2001 Model Year Audi S4 4-dr 6-speed quattro models sold in the U.S.
• 140 2001 Model Year Audi S4 4-dr 6-speed quattro models with Casablanca White exteriors sold in the U.S.
• 86 2001 Model Year Audi S4 4-dr 6-speed quattro models with Casablanca White exteriors and Onyx interiors sold in the U.S.


What part of town are you in? Thornton and Denver here.

[cu52]

Lots of maintenance done!

Got the following done over the last week or so and got to test drive it in the snow! Thermostat is working correctly! Boil test showed it was opening at 60c rather than 87...

Timing belt
Spider hose
High pressure power steering hose
Diverter valves
Complete timing belt package all components
Fan clutch pulley
Valve cover package
Cv boots
Upper control arm
Intake manifold gaskets
Diverter valves
Silicone boost hoses

Also installed the repaired LCD cluster thanks to Module Master, and an AWE boosts gauge.

Going to drive her this week and get emissions test done for permanent plates and more troubleshooting.

Still need to figure out why cruise control and homelink are not working at all.

1216162242a.jpghttps://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58573d13...214162329.jpg?




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[JustManson]

This car has come a long way!


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[Alex44]

Nice work. I have to ask what headlight bulbs you are using those are crazy bright.

[1sadavant]

Great find and glad it went to a good home, hopefully you can restore it to its original glory. Curious what you ended up agreeing on as far as a price? I am in the process of adding another S4 to the garage and scouring the country for a low mileage 6spd that needs TLC so I can restore myself. All of that engine work and noisy turbos?? Should have just pulled the engine!

[vavJETTAw36]

Nice work. I have to ask what headlight bulbs you are using those are crazy bright.

*Cough cough* extended shutter exposure *cough cough*


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[zatch_303]

What part of town are you in? Thornton and Denver here.

Arvada but I will be working in Thornton, Broomfield, and Denver for the next 4 months. Great progress so far!

[cu52]

This car has come a long way!


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Thanks! I also just sprayed the rear deck as it was faded really bad due to sitting in a driveway for almost 4 years. Going to be installing a Kenwood DVD /bluetooth unit.

Before:


After:

Nice work. I have to ask what headlight bulbs you are using those are crazy bright.

these are stock

Great find and glad it went to a good home, hopefully you can restore it to its original glory. Curious what you ended up agreeing on as far as a price? I am in the process of adding another S4 to the garage and scouring the country for a low mileage 6spd that needs TLC so I can restore myself. All of that engine work and noisy turbos?? Should have just pulled the engine!

I wanted to get a better idea of the vehicle and issues before pulling the engine so I had a good baseline and could see how it performs. I have a used set of K03's from a low mileage A6 (86k) on the way for a pretty good price. I will be pulling the engine in the next month or so to swap the turbos.

*Cough cough* extended shutter exposure *cough cough*


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Correct, taken with my V10 LG phone when it was snowing pretty hard with a very bright sky.

Arvada but I will be working in Thornton, Broomfield, and Denver for the next 4 months. Great progress so far!

Maybe I will see you around!

[cu52]

Car is on jack stands and I have all the prep work done to pull the engine and going to replace the turbos with a new to me used set of K03's out of an A6. Just awaiting a a couple parts and the turbo installation kit to be delivered. Also picked up some solowerks coilovers and a set of wheels!

Hope to have the turbos replaced this weekend!

Appears that the ET43 b7 Titanium wheels will require a spacer to fit and clear the S4 brakes. Although all calculations state there is no issue, the spoke geometry hits the caliper.... unfortunately the below does not mean they fit.
"Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 4.3mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 8.3mm more than before."

Anyone know off hand what the spacer dimension is necessary for these wheels?

[millerchris85]

Also remember the calipers will move further with a brake job. Don't recall if your pads are new.


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[cu52]

Also remember the calipers will move further with a brake job. Don't recall if your pads are new.


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Pads are new, but rotors were used. Will make sure to factor that into the spacer calc. Some quick research appears that 5mm. Will pick up some washers this week to test.

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[neutronjeff]

+1 what millerchris said. Learned that the hard way when my shop told me my wheels didn't fit after brakes.

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[cu52]

Engine is out, Turbos are have been swapped. hope to have the engine back in this weekend!

[cu52]

Ok Lots of updates since the last post!

• Turbos and many other misc parts replaced!
• UUC Short Shifter installed
• Most of the electrical gremlins have been sorted out. A couple remain: EGT Bank 2 and
• ECU/EPC issue. More on these issues below.
• New control arm kit and Coilovers installed
• Spacers installed 10mm front 12mm Rear and the wheels/Tires are on!
Items left on the list: Tint, Replace driver’s seat (Anyone have a nice one for sale?) fix EGT

Found out that electric boost gauges do not read correctly at higher elevations. Had to go with a calibrate-able electric (not a huge fan) probably going to remove and install a mechanical Podi.

For EGT’s. I have two black EGT’s in my 2001. Have already replaced both as there were issues with both. Bank 1 has no issues right now. Bank 2 however keeps having issues. Now I am getting two codes for the EGT’s, not sure if this is the EGT or the wiring from ECU to EGT. Will be troubleshooting this weekend.

ECU issue: I swapped in my stock ECU H box to see what mileage I got in comparison to the GIAC stage 1. Probably 300 total miles. ½ way through a full tank my EPC light comes on. Troubleshooting the Throttle Body there are no issues. Light stays on even after a TB Adaptation. Swap back in my stage 1 T box and no issues. Appears faulty ECU all of a sudden?

Here is her new look:

[derek2079]

Reminds me of my casa b5. Nice.