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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2015
    AZ Member #
    355602
    Location
    portage, mi

    need some axle help

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    hey guys, so i just swapped my axles today and first 2 miles were golden. but then i did a pull from 20-70 and it was nothing but violent shaking. felt like a bad misfire. now it does it everytime i accelerate fairly hard past 20mph. the axles are aftermarket surtrack axles from rockauto which i now wasnt a great idea but i didnt expect them to go bad after 5 miles. what has me posting here for help though, is the fact that im not totally convinced its the axles. i grabbed the axle by the part closest to the trans and the passenger side one is completely solid still. the driver side however has play at the yoke coming off the transmission. could this be causing the problem and it just presented itself after changing the axles?

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2015
    AZ Member #
    355602
    Location
    portage, mi

    also my vin is WAULC68E33A186667 i should be getting "from #8E2120000" axles right?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by storey618 View Post
    also my vin is WAULC68E33A186667 i should be getting "from #8E2120000" axles right?
    I'm not sure. I still don't know how VIN-splits work. Maybe a dealer can tell you.
    If they run your VIN, they should only get two PN's anyway. One will be probably an old superceded NLA one, and the other current will be the same exact thing with an X digit on the end, meaning remanufactured, because Audi no longer makes these 2000's-era kits, at least in whole axle form. I assume they still make the joints, since they can still be bought at the likes of ECS.

    So you would re-use your shaft since after all, it's the joint that goes bad, not the shaft. Unless you swap in a supercharged 4.2L and break it at the drag strip.

    Preventative maintenance. Atmosphere, age, etc. take a toll on the boot. Once that rips, your grease flings out, which gets thinned by the hot exhaust down-pipe passing nearby.
    It's high speed rotation flinging it out.
    On top of that, dirt, water, etc. can enter.
    The grease also protects it from rust.
    This is why if you rebuild a joint and leave it sitting clean, it will flash rust.
    My spare outer joints did this, so I coated them in some oil before bagging them up.

    Maybe I'm wrong, but I believe a joint shouldn't have play. But if you have a coilpack unplugged causing misfire bucking, I'm not saying throw parts at the car that won't fix the issue.

    I believe Marty @ Raxles takes your used OE shaft model, hence core send-in, and rebuild it by putting on new OE joints, and his choice of quality grease.

    You also need to know which joints. I think the outsides are all the same.
    And quattro rear axles are the same.
    But it gets tricky with the front inner, bolted to gearbox.
    For example, B6 3L 5AT is tripod like this:


    But maybe B6 1.8T 6MT is like this, tripod but circle housing:


    Whereas 6MT 3.0L (such as '02-'03 US 01E and '04-'05 US 02X GJV) is a different design. Not tripod, but rather rzeppa, aka 6 ball cage.

    I hear tripod has needle bearings that needs more of a 3% MoS2 grease, because any more will clog them.
    Whereas Rzeppa can use 5%, because it has no needle bearings.
    I think there might be OE grease packet PN variations too, based on this.

    And then comes the step of rebuilding a good part if you choose to do so. It's messy and time-consuming.
    I dunno if you kept your stock old axles and if they're rebuildable, or the joint is trashed due to being driven so long that it developed play, hence replacement.
    The idea with that is to rebuild it with a fresh boot and grease BEFORE the old boot rips open after ~100k-mi, if you're saving parts cost vs. Raxles $200/axle.

    Maybe you can find an old used one, but you can already see the potential flaw with that. This is probably one reason why people go with Raxles.
    As opposed to spending all weekend looking for a used part, and then by the time you find it, the guy is asking too high of a price, and hands it over to you with a stripped outer thread...

    I dunno if this answers your question but hopefully it's helpful info.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Protection's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    71438
    My Garage
    Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio, MK7 Golf R, B5 S4, B6 A4, B7 RS4
    Location
    Long Island NY

    I think a little play is normal. I would be more concerned about the one with no-play. That could be the cause of your problem. Did you check the obvious, like all the screws holding the axle to the tranny are secure? That you installed the axles on the correct side? Do you still have the old axles?



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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2015
    AZ Member #
    355602
    Location
    portage, mi

    the one with play is at the trans so thats why im worried. it is the drive flange that the axle connects too. all screws are tight. i torqued everything according to the bentley manual. i believe they are the correct sides i even looked up left and right sides to confirm before install. yes i still have the old axles

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Protection's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    71438
    My Garage
    Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio, MK7 Golf R, B5 S4, B6 A4, B7 RS4
    Location
    Long Island NY

    So, just to be clear, you think it is the flange that is loose, not play at the tripod joint?


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings Protection's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    71438
    My Garage
    Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio, MK7 Golf R, B5 S4, B6 A4, B7 RS4
    Location
    Long Island NY

    IIRC, the flange is attached to the tranny by a single 5 or 6mm hex bolt, but you have to undo that one end of the axle to get to it.


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  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2015
    AZ Member #
    355602
    Location
    portage, mi

    im positive thats whats loose. apparently there were other designs but im hoping mine is the bolt. im gonna pull the shaft tomorrow and check it out. hopefully i dont have to return the axles to rockauto and i can at least ride them out til spring while i rebuild the oem ones

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    There's nothing wrong with the RockAuto axles. They're just as good as a Rexal. They're good units, they're fully rebuilt and greased.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    I did get some axles off of rock out of one time for another car and they did not balance them properly so they have vibrated like crazy.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Knock on wood I have only had to replace one axle so far. I went with Raxles since I knew exactly what I was getting. For something that I will (hopefully) only replace once saving a few $$ just isn't worth the risk of having to deal with it again.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 14 2015
    AZ Member #
    355602
    Location
    portage, mi

    Can someone explain to me what makes an axle bad? I'm about to pull the rockauto ones and put the oem ones back in. I'll order a boot kit once I get my refund from rockauto. My axles don't seem bad, just torn boots and a slight vibration at 55 before I changed them

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
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    Location
    minnesota

    Quote Originally Posted by storey618 View Post
    Can someone explain to me what makes an axle bad? I'm about to pull the rockauto ones and put the oem ones back in. I'll order a boot kit once I get my refund from rockauto. My axles don't seem bad, just torn boots and a slight vibration at 55 before I changed them
    They have an inner and outer joint. They are constant velocity joints which means they can rotate at a constant velocity when angled. The joint is filled with ball bearings which are held in place by a steel bearing retainer. The balls interlock with the shaft on the other side. There's a lot of rotational wear that can take place if the grease becomes too old or if the boot gets ripped and the Greece has leaked out. It's not common for axles to go bad. Theyre very well-constructed. Unless you hit something and bend something or tear the boot the whole thing is pretty much a self-contained and the grease is more than adequate to keep it going for a very long time. Like any wear item the tolerances between the bearings, the bearing recesses, the cage can open up over time and that's where the damage occurs when you have a loss of lubrication.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by jacobsen; 11-12-2016 at 12:42 PM.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

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