80k S4

[gcastle]

Considering a 6MT S4 with 80k on the clicker. Anything I should be asking about or looking for? I see the waterpump can be an issue on these guys, what is the service interval for replacement?

Thanks!

[734jeant]

Considering a 6MT S4 with 80k on the clicker. Anything I should be asking about or looking for? I see the waterpump can be an issue on these guys, what is the service interval for replacement?

Thanks!

Okay, I'll bite. What year is it?

[infinkc]

Just consider a clutch in the price, if it's never been replaced it will need to be soon. I am selling mine with 119k, only issues I have had are thermostat, crank pulley, clutch, battery.

[gcastle]

2010, sorry, I'm a doofus for not including that. Crank pulley eh? That's an interesting one. I currently own a G8 GT, which also is known to have crank pulley issues.

[fitzydude]

Bought mine at that mileage now at 113k. Replaced clutch, thermostat, hood strut, PCV valve repair, battery, replace start button for cosmetic reasons, replace three lock button switch covers, had a blown suspension strut, valve covers might be starting to leak... I don't drive this thing easy and I actually don't think it's too bad.

[TMurt]

These cars seem to be fairly consistent. I have a 2010 now that I bought at 88k, now 101k. I've only had to deal with the battery so far, t-stat was done right before I got it and I'm expecting the clutch soon. No other issues to report though. Make sure you get a full service history if possible. The clutch will be your biggest expense unless you have a sport diff problem, assuming the car has that option

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

After about 75k, the crank pulley (if it's the original) is something that could go out at any time. If you're lucky and it happens at idle RPM speeds, you won't suffer any other damage other than the belt shredding and taking out part of the hoot insulation and that's about it. If it happens at high RPMs, lots of things could go bad. Also, it blowing out seems to depend on how the car has been driven over it's life, but it's a gamble either way and it's not something that can be inspected to see the current state of the rubber isolator in it. Just a fair warning.

[EHesh14]

Yea I would definitely check into the crank pulley. Mine failed right at 80k, bo damage to anything else, thankfully.

[kcobourn]

After about 75k, the crank pulley (if it's the original) is something that could go out at any time..

Crank pulley definitely needs to be looked at. Mine went way earlier @ 56k. Also look at suspension bushings, motor mounts, and anything else that's rubber like axle seals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SonnyDeez]

2010, sorry, I'm a doofus for not including that. Crank pulley eh? That's an interesting one. I currently own a G8 GT, which also is known to have crank pulley issues.

Im on a 2012 6MT at just about 50k and started tracking the car a lot this year.

I've had to replace the rear main seal (luckily was still under warranty) and reseal the rear inner CV joints. Both issues were found by track inspection s.

The rear main seal manifested as oil seeping around the bell housing and the CV joints looked a bit like the rear diff had a leak. It was slight, but would eventually lead to problems.

I think I have a bit of valve cover gasket seepage too but it's not bad enough to require work.

Haven't had to replace my clutch yet, but have replaced the battery once.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[MrFunk]

As all mentioned. Look for the wear and tear items you'd look at with any car of this age. Belts, maintenance history, how does the clutch feel, what sense do you get from the owner = hard on his cars or not? What's the condition of the interior or under the hood can tell a lot. These cars are quite reliable so just keep up with maintenance items and you should get a lot more life out of it.

[TMurt]

Is there anything definitive about crank pulley failure occurring mainly on stage 2 cars? It looks like most of the posts about failure in the crank pulley threads are people with stage 2 in their sig. I'm a bit concerned on mine but my stock clutch has held for 100k miles so far and seems like a good indication the car hasn't been driven hard and crank pulley failure would be unlikely and I don't plan to tune it

[EHesh14]

Is there anything definitive about crank pulley failure occurring mainly on stage 2 cars? It looks like most of the posts about failure in the crank pulley threads are people with stage 2 in their sig. I'm a bit concerned on mine but my stock clutch has held for 100k miles so far and seems like a good indication the car hasn't been driven hard and crank pulley failure would be unlikely and I don't plan to tune it

Yes it seems more apparent on tuned cars. I wouldn't worry about it. But, if in the future it does fail, I would get the jhm crank pulley just so it won't happen again.

[viceroy1976]

So far on my 2010, I've had to replace the steering rack (under warranty), clutch slave, and crank pulley.
Luckily the pulley failed literally as I pulled off from the lights, and only destroyed the belt. Didn't even scuff the hood insulation.
Was a great opportunity to upgrade to stage 2 though.

[dean.mohr]

I have a 2012 6MT. Purchased it at about 72k, at which point the only work it had done was something to do with the steering system. I'm not generally too hard on mine, but have had the Chipwerke box for over a year and outside of a clutch at about 89k, haven't had a single issue with the car *knocks on wood*. These seem to be pretty solid.

[Mancha]

I'm at 92K. So far only had to replace T-stat. Feels like I'll need a new clutch by 100K.

[mnthny4]

Im at 165k with stassis tune on a 2010 s4 6speed so far no issues to report car drives like it just came of the showroom floor ,never heard of the crank pulley issue tho ,so thanks for heads up on that ,even tho i have a new one from a 500mile water damage car that engine was replaced under warranty ,so i just may replace mine now like how im hearing all this crank pulley issues .

[dean.mohr]

I'm at 92K. So far only had to replace T-stat. Feels like I'll need a new clutch by 100K.

Realistically, mine only went when it did because I auto crossed it. 25 or so hard launches in the span of 2 hours was pretty much the end of it for that clutch. Otherwise I probably would have put another 10k on it.

[Gordyzero]

My experience with my 10 S4 DSG that I purchased at 80k , within a few thousand miles I needed front sway bar and most front control arm bushings. My 2010 also had a few oil leaks ( PM me for specifics ) and a very small but annoying coolant leak. Drove it to 124k Replacing my front struts and mounts around 110k. Great car. 2013 that I replaced it with again DSG , BONE dry no leaks anywhere. Suspension was much more quiet at 68k compared to my all new suspension in my 10 , no idea why. I'm currently at 81k on the 13 . Just starring to get a bushing , maybe a strut mount click . No clunks like on the 10. But 80k seems to be the turning point for these rubber mounts and bushings. Besides my DSG woes . These have been wonderful cars. Be happy you have a manual even with the clutch replacement you have no random Mekatronics BS that can fail. A friend has a 2012 6MT track beaten , basically tortured several times a week since he bought it at 100k then added UNI stage 2+ ,140k on the clock now, no complaints besides a clutch and new fly wheel .

Sent from my XT1585 using Audizine mobile app

[cfd]

Just consider a clutch in the price, if it's never been replaced it will need to be soon. I am selling mine with 119k, only issues I have had are thermostat, crank pulley, clutch, battery.

at what mileage did you clutch fail?

[Saleen S7 TT]

2010, sorry, I'm a doofus for not including that. Crank pulley eh? That's an interesting one. I currently own a G8 GT, which also is known to have crank pulley issues.

Details on G8 GT? Plan on selling it?