NOTICE: I RECOMMEND CLEANING YOUR OIL PICK UP TUBE BEFORE ANY OF THIS. THIS IS WHAT HAS CAUSED THE FAILURE IN THE NEW UNIT THAT WAS PREVIUOSLY INSTALLED ON THIS CAR. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT YOU CAUSE BY USING THIS GUIDE
If you experience any of these symptoms, you must replace it:
P0011 code.
Horrible noise coming from the head.
Loss of power.
I did mine in around 30-45 minutes which was a whole bunch of looking around and inspecting stuff. It was my first time doing any major work on any VW product and I was a bit worried. I also had a friend who knows how to work on these cars more than I do, but you don't need to be an AUDI tech to do this. This was our first time replacing just the tensioner itself.
It is easier than it sounds and what other guide was telling you. No need to be paranoid. No need to remove the front end.
Tools needed:
Common sense and mechanical knowledge.
Set of TORX bits.
Set of HEX bits.
Metric wrench set.
10MM socket, 8MM socket.
Ratchet 3/8, 1/4
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers.
CAM CHAIN TENSIONER TOOL. This tool comes with a new tensioner. If you have a friend who has bought one before, you will need it. Otherwise, buy one. YOU NEED IT.
A friend.
Fleshlite.
Beer and smokes. For the cool looking mechanic guy factor. (Optional)
Parts needed:
Cam chain tensioner. NAPA carries them locally. Buy the DORMAN kit. Comes with OEM part (looks like some number might have been shaved, but has BOSCH solenoid) for a REALLY good price and all the gaskets needed and cam seals. It works great so far. If the guy doesn't know how to look it up, part number is 600-3612
NAPA also carries the actual OEM part by itself which costs $600++
Part number at NAPA 058109088K
Silicone.
New oil and filter.
Spark plugs.
Whatever looks like it needs to be replaced.
Assuming you have the valve cover removed, let's begin this.
1) Remove the spark plugs. This will help you to crank the engine over easier.
2) Grab a 16MM wrench (I think) and turn the engine clockwise until the mark on the cam lines up with the mark on the head. (This step is not needed, but I did it for safety's sake in case something went south.)
3) Remove the oil splash shields.
4) Mark the timing chain and the cam sprockets on both cams with nail polish or something that will stay there.
5) Install the CCT tool and tighten it until it is completely tight.
6) Grab a thick flathead and a rag that is lint free. Wrap the rag around it and wedge it between the exhaust cam and the head in the rear of the engine. This will prevent the chain from falling off the cam and messing the timing up.
NOW THE SCARY PART.
7) Begin removing that camshaft. Begin with the screws at the end caps. Remove the main griddle in the front and work your way towards the center from both ends. Once all the caps are removed from the intake cam, remove the very last cap on the exhaust cam. You do not need to loosen any other caps as the other guide suggests.
Keep the screws and the caps how they came out. Just for safety. Caps in order is a must.
8) Light up a cigarette and drink a beer. It's a must.
9) Slightly lift up the tensioner and slide the gasket out.
9) Now that all the cam caps are gone, grab your friend. You can do it yourself, but it is easier with another person.
Have one person hold the intake cam and chain to it (for safety's sake) and another manipulating the tensioner out. If it makes it easier for you, you may remove the chain from the cam since it is marked. Now that the tensioner is out, look at it. If the screen is clogged, look in the oil supply for it. Clean it out if it is.
Since everything is removed, you cam set the cam carefully back in the head. Clean up everything where all the gaskets go, replace them if they are bad.
This is what it looks like with everything removed.
Have a break. Celebrate with a friend. Or skip the foreplay and dive right back into the work.
10) Since the new tensioner come with the tensioner tool on it already, it is ready to be installed. Put it back in and slide the gasket in. Don't forget to replace the half moon gasket and add silicone on it.
11) Install everything in reverse order. All the cam caps and everything. Once everything is tight and torqued down, release the tensioner tool.
Reinstall all the parts and put it back together.
You are done. Smoke a cigarette and drink a beer.
IMPORTANT
I recommend doing this if you have this issue or not.
This fixed my low oil pressure warning. I contemplated dropping the pan, but once I looked in the engine, it was clean. Just the pick up was clogged with silicone and other debris.
This is what my pick up looked like
Tools needed
4MM HEX.
13MM wrench.
Picks.
Automotive inspection camera (optional, but it is very helpful).
Brake cleaner.
Air compressor with a thin nozzle.
Cleaning the oil pick up screen.
1) Drain the oil.
2) Remove oil filter.
3) Remove oil level sensor.
4) Use the camera or your eye and look at the pick up tube screen. If it is dirty, clean it.
5) Using the pick, remove most of the debris. Do it however you like it. Look at it in between and spray brake cleaner. I used four cans.
6) Once it is cleaned, spray more cleaner in the and blow everything out through the oil level sensor hole.
7) Inspect everything again and put everything back together. I ran some oil through it just to flush everything out.
Start the sucker up. Your engine will sound healthy if you put everything back together right. Mine used to sound like a diesel.
This is what it looked like after. I cleaned it a bit more.
All the check engine lights disappeared and I passed smog.
If you have any questions, leave a comment. Thank you.
I ONLY TOOK 4 PICTURES DURING THIS WHOLE PROCEDURE. I WILL UPLOAD THEM ONCE I GET HOME.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by kwnk
Bookmarks