Plastic spacer on injectors

[<3Quattro]

Noticed there are these little plastic spacers/clips on the or ejector near the bottem. Not the oring.

I have 630cc injectors do I need to swap these spacers over? would it effect anything cause I do have a weird idle surginf issue no codes, no vacuum or boost leaks.

Thanks!

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[<3Quattro]

What I am referring to is pintle caps.

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[Seerlah]

Post pic of design? I run Bosch EV14 630cc injectors and just used Autozone Special more tight fit o-rings with a larger girth to them. Pretty snug so they won't drop into the block, while being thick enough to assist in a greater seal on the injector cup. Gasoline is really dry and so is rubber, plastic and metal. Trade secret, put a little bit of silicone spray (what I use, but WD-40 is what many use) on your fingers and coat the o-ring. Slides in like butter. Any o-ring for that fact, unless specified to place it in dry or lubrication used can compromise what is being worked on. Might save you from cursing out an o-ring .

But please explain what you mean by surging? Meaning...while in boost or is it created with the back flow from the throttle body flapper closing (when you take foot off throttle)?

[<3Quattro]

Not referring to the oring but the plastic peice below it. Known as pintle clips from what I've read. Anyways I'll show a picture.

As for the surging I meant that my idle bounces up and down after the car warms up. It's very consistent aswell. Thanks!

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[Seerlah]

I know. It is designed to retain the o-ring. But it is plastic and can possibly dry, get brittle, and have parts break off and get chomped by the intake valves. Or even worse they get chomped up fully, o-ring is of sub-par fitment (can just about guarantee they are...sitting in your fuel rail and intake manifold right now) that falls into the valve area.

Already posted a recommendation, if you caught onto it. And not sure if you ever took the stock one off or not, because they get brittle after time and do exactly what I just posted (they def can be taken off, but you need to be gentle or they can possibly crack in the process). But...the stock stops are small and really cause no real harm. But if the o-ring by some anomaly of life were to drop in there, kind of hard to chomp and chew up something made of rubber before it enters the combustion chamber (hope it melts fast and does not compromise your piston rings before trying to make it's way out the exhaust...passing some more valves...into your turbo). Doubt the design for fitment will even work on your new injectors (really don't know).

This is one of those "How the f*ck did that happen situations?!?!", but is the extreme end of the spectrum...maybe. Doubtful that will ever happen. But having an o-ring drop into the head while trying to pull the injectors out is one reason why they exist. Happens often, and why people usually suggest taking off IM at same time (or just unbolt it off head, move to the side, cover intake ports, and now problem solved. you can even do something like just slide the IM back far enough after unbolting, or just loosen bolts and two nuts, and slide index cards over the ports to prevent it from happening. shop vac it back out by slightly sliding index card off runner to allow velocity for shop vac to take in the o-ring. now...problem averted. many ways to go about it).

As for the surging, you should have stated that. On a turbocharged vehicle and you stating that you run 630cc injectors, most would think of the turbo surging (probably everybody. ha). You have more of what one may refer to as RPM fluctuation at idle, erratic RPM at idle that stays between such and such RPM...or surge . Sorry, too easy. Meant no disrespect or ill intent. Just busting chops !

So next question, what tune are you running? And did you try a throttle body adaption via Ross Tech or similar programming to do a full reset?

[Seerlah]

Crap, I feel like an @sshole. Reading comprehension 101...missed the "idle" part in your initial post. My fault!

Same recommendation with questions, and we will go from there. At least you have advice on what you should do and try in the meantime. But your erratic RPM at idle more than likely has to do with either tune or your throttle body needing an adaption. If you don't have access to software to do a reset, you can do the key in starting position technique. This isn't the full TBA and will only reset to the previous adaption setting. This is why a full TBA with software is recommended.

Edit: Failing Reading Comprehension 101 and staying after class for "extra" tutoring . Now just read it only happens after car warms up. We need logs (others will join in to assist)! And more info (ie setup, diagnosing software you use, how long this issue has been happening for, how long you had the setup for, did you upgrade injectors and had the setup on your car for a while with different injectors, etc). The more info you post, the more people can help!

[<3Quattro]

Thanks for the reply. The explanation on the pintle caps and there purpose makes sense now.

As for the idle issue. Or shall I say the rpm fluctuation ;) never had it before with my old engine. Swapped In a good used engine this past summer and idle issues. I will try the throttle body adaptation without vagcom. Don't have vagcom yet :( so I cannot provide logs.

Setup is
Spa top mount withGt3071r
630cc euro dyne mafless




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[Seerlah]

Update?

[<3Quattro]

Trying to get my hands on some a real diagnostic tool to scan and log. Still need to change or check my crank pulley too. It's wobbles ahhh so many things to do and the days keep getting shorter .bullllshit!!!! :@

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