Cooling flange safe to wait to fail?

[danbfree]

So I'm doing the big timing/accessory belt, water pump, thermostat w/ temp sensor service soon.. Is the cooling flange something that I can wait for it to start to leak a little and jump on and replace when that happens? Or is it a bear to get to and should have done same time as the others? Also anything else I should do at the same time? Mechanic says don't worry about accessory belt tensioner/rollers for now? Have them throw on a snub mount for the heck of it? 2006 A4 Quattro 2.0 w/Tip, 96k right now. Seems like has had every TSB and a cam follower failure in her previous CPO life already but see nothing about coolant service at all, while fuel filters, brake flushes are are all in her history too.

[Sanjman]

Simple answer... If it is leaking get it fixed...

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[deusilan]

Simple answer... If it is leaking get it fixed...

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Ditto. I waited to fix this, and coolant ended up on my starter. Had to tow my car to a shop to get it fixed.
You do not want to wait if you know it's leaking...

[80sGuy]

He didn't say it was leaking.
OP, I'd tell the mechanic to replace EVERYTHING that has to do with the serpentine and timing belts. This goes for all rollers, tensioners, etc, then water pump, and of course while you're at it do the coolant flange. Why wait? Why waste time and money again?

[danbfree]

He didn't say it was leaking.
OP, I'd tell the mechanic to replace EVERYTHING that has to do with the serpentine and timing belts. This goes for all rollers, tensioners, etc, then water pump, and of course while you're at it do the coolant flange. Why wait? Why waste time and money again?

Thanks... ya, he said he didn't recommend accessory belt tensioner/rollers if there was no problems with them, I thought that to be kind of weird since you are in there doing everything for the T-belt anyway... but ya, flange and thermostat are separate, if flange is easy to get to otherwise, I wouldn't mind waiting if that always fails starting with a slow leak I can jump on and repair later, but I get you on those accessory belt rollers, they seem just as important to knock out wile doing all the timing belt ones.

[billyhoyle]

Thanks... ya, he said he didn't recommend accessory belt tensioner/rollers if there was no problems with them, I thought that to be kind of weird since you are in there doing everything for the T-belt anyway... but ya, flange and thermostat are separate, if flange is easy to get to otherwise, I wouldn't mind waiting if that always fails starting with a slow leak I can jump on and repair later, but I get you on those accessory belt rollers, they seem just as important to knock out wile doing all the timing belt ones.

The flange is on the back of the head, so doing it at the same time as the timing belt won't save them any time or you any money.

[danbfree]

The flange is on the back of the head, so doing it at the same time as the timing belt won't save them any time or you any money.

OK, cool... so it can be accessed fairly easily if I do get a leak later... thanks for clarifying, I think i'll wait on that... What do you think about doing temp sensor along with the thermostat? Is that something smart to just do if you are doing thermostat? I noticed there are Cooling system refresh kits that include the temp sensor... It's already going to be $500 labor alone for t-belt/w pump/accessory belt, I wonder how much more this will all add on that could possibly wait... but at the same time, tons of service records as previous CPO, but nothing cooling related ever shown as being done...

[danbfree]

Simple answer... If it is leaking get it fixed...

Cool, since it's right on the back of the head and it's not leaking right now at all, I'll just keep an eye on it, thanks.

[RakkCity]

OK, cool... so it can be accessed fairly easily if I do get a leak later... thanks for clarifying, I think i'll wait on that... W

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha no...


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[Sanjman]

Cool, since it's right on the back of the head and it's not leaking right now at all, I'll just keep an eye on it, thanks.

Easy to some hard to others depends whether you have a lift and how ballsy you are. Some drop the exhaust to get clearance some drop the subframe, some just twist and bend their hands and tools and feel for it. For once it may be beneficial to have small hands... [insert joke here]

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[billyhoyle]

OK, cool... so it can be accessed fairly easily if I do get a leak later... thanks for clarifying, I think i'll wait on that... What do you think about doing temp sensor along with the thermostat? Is that something smart to just do if you are doing thermostat? I noticed there are Cooling system refresh kits that include the temp sensor... It's already going to be $500 labor alone for t-belt/w pump/accessory belt, I wonder how much more this will all add on that could possibly wait... but at the same time, tons of service records as previous CPO, but nothing cooling related ever shown as being done...

Well it isn't 'easily' accessible, but it's accessible. DIY here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ment-with-Pics

Temp sensor wouldn't be a bad idea, but I couldn't tell you whether it's easier to do it with the front end pulled...probably?

[danbfree]

Well it isn't 'easily' accessible, but it's accessible. DIY here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ment-with-Pics

Temp sensor wouldn't be a bad idea, but I couldn't tell you whether it's easier to do it with the front end pulled...probably?

Great info, thank you!

[danbfree]

Hahahahahahahahahahahaha no...


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Ummm, ok, I get it now... Not easy to get to but also not any easier with front end off either... I'll wait on it for now then, but if thermo is in the front and easy to get to when doing timing belt I'll include that at least.

[RakkCity]

Ummm, ok, I get it now... Not easy to get to but also not any easier with front end off either... I'll wait on it for now then, but if thermo is in the front and easy to get to when doing timing belt I'll include that at least.

Do the Tstat while you have the front end off. You'll need to remove the alternator and having the serpentine already off and the increased access will help. Plus the coolant will already be drained so there's that.

Also a great time to throw in a GFB DV+ or an OEM Rev D if you haven't already. Check your wastegate actuator rod make sure it's nice and tight. Definitely replace the serpentine and its tensioner, it needs to come off anyway to access the TB so your cost should just be parts. Labor down the road will be much more expensive without the front clip off.


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[danbfree]

Do the Tstat while you have the front end off. You'll need to remove the alternator and having the serpentine already off and the increased access will help. Plus the coolant will already be drained so there's that.

Also a great time to throw in a GFB DV+ or an OEM Rev D if you haven't already. Check your wastegate actuator rod make sure it's nice and tight. Definitely replace the serpentine and its tensioner, it needs to come off anyway to access the TB so your cost should just be parts. Labor down the road will be much more expensive without the front clip off.

Sweet detail, thanks for the feedback! I had DV checked and it is still old diaphragm style, but that is easy to do with lift right? Even though it's only $50, I'd rather wait a bit on that as I'm pulling good stock right now. I also don't have the space, tools or time to work on my own car right now so I'm using a specialist shop, $95/hr (when all other specialist shops are $105) but 15% off first visit too so I'm going to get as much as I literally can afford to do here in a couple of weeks. I already have basic T-belt kit with belt, water pump, tensioner, rollers and couple of bolts/stud and accessory belt. I'm going to add thermostat kit, few liters of coolant, additional seals/hardware for timing belt and tensioner/rollers/rollers for accessory belt, although the mechanic recommends just the s-belt itself. Was considering cooling refresh kit with temp sensor and flange, but no leaks at all and need to save a bit for later. I'll make sure to have mechanic check wastegate actuator too. I think for fun I'll have them throw on a snub mount, I figure for $30 it's a perfect little thing to add now with front clip off. Also, right front headlight flickers hard and sometimes "dips" previous shop said they reconnected loose leveling sensor but still flickering and dipping but less often. The right headlight itself vibrates and was told it's the housing itself, I'll prob do a $300 used OEM later, not sure if a new ballast will at least get rid of flicker and it failing occasionally.

To do later: Brake booster vacuum pump (oil leak), driver seat belt receiver buckle (air bag light)

[RakkCity]

Sweet detail, thanks for the feedback! I had DV checked and it is still old diaphragm style, but that is easy to do with lift right? Even though it's only $50, I'd rather wait a bit on that as I'm pulling good stock right now. I also don't have the space, tools or time to work on my own car right now so I'm using a specialist shop, $95/hr (when all other specialist shops are $105) but 15% off first visit too so I'm going to get as much as I literally can afford to do here in a couple of weeks. I already have basic T-belt kit with belt, water pump tensioner, rollers and couple of bolts/stud and accessory belt. I'm going to add thermostat kit, few liters of coolant, additional seals/hardware for timing belt and tensioner/rollers/rollers for accessory belt, although the mechanic recommends just the s-belt itself. Was considering cooling refresh kit with temp sensor and flange, but no leaks at all and need to save a bit for later. I'll make sure to have mechanic check wastegate actuator too. I think for fun I'll have them throw on a snub mount, I figure for $30 it's a perfect little thing to add now with front clip off. Also, right front headlight flickers hard and sometimes "dips" previous shop said they reconnected loose leveling sensor but still flickering and dipping but less often. The right headlight itself vibrates and was told it's the housing itself, I'll prob do a $300 used OEM later, not sure if a new ballast will at least get rid of flicker and it failing occasionally.

To do later: Brake booster vacuum pump (oil leak), driver seat belt receiver buckle (air bag light)

DV is possible with a lift or even a jack and stands, but it's nestled right at the front of the motor so doing it with the front clip on is a tight squeeze. Your diaphragm valve will fail at some point, and when that happens you'll have an underboost code and very little power. And it's bound to happen at the worst possible time a la Murphy's Law.

How many miles on your car? if you're under 100k, maybe skip on the serpentine belt tensioner and get the DV instead. Tensioner fails and you'll get some belt noise (which is embarassing, but the car will still run fine). DV fails and now you're scrambling trying to get it fixed so your car runs right. I believe I still have the Rev D that came off my car. No problems and I'm not sure how many miles it has (my car is an 05 so it didn't come with it, definitely was replaced at some point after manufacture). 100% functional I just replaced it with the GFB during my TB job because I wanted to never deal with DV issues again and didn't realize I already had a Rev D until it was already off.

I'll check tomorrow and if I have it I'll let it go for cheap, like $30 shipped?

[danbfree]

DV is possible with a lift or even a jack and stands, but it's nestled right at the front of the motor so doing it with the front clip on is a tight squeeze. Your diaphragm valve will fail at some point, and when that happens you'll have an underboost code and very little power. And it's bound to happen at the worst possible time a la Murphy's Law.

How many miles on your car? if you're under 100k, maybe skip on the serpentine belt tensioner and get the DV instead. Tensioner fails and you'll get some belt noise (which is embarassing, but the car will still run fine). DV fails and now you're scrambling trying to get it fixed so your car runs right. I believe I still have the Rev D that came off my car. No problems and I'm not sure how many miles it has (my car is an 05 so it didn't come with it, definitely was replaced at some point after manufacture). 100% functional I just replaced it with the GFB during my TB job because I wanted to never deal with DV issues again and didn't realize I already had a Rev D until it was already off.

I'll check tomorrow and if I have it I'll let it go for cheap, like $30 shipped?

Ya, that sounds great! Since the car has 96xxx but is approaching it's 11th build b-day in January, I just want to get major maintenance done so I can have a reliable 2017... Also forgot to add, got a JHM Tip trans service kit off the classifieds here, that may have to wait a little, but maybe just 2 months max right after the holidays. So ya, I'll skip the s-belt tensioner and rollers then, only weird noise I get is a bit of whining when car is cold, prob could be anything. But I can definitely PayPal you on Friday for the DV, I was looking at the GFB or Awe tuning upgrade, but factory Rev D for $30 works for now... Also, I got the the 95%+ complete service records that show some interesting stuff "Engine assy" after a cam failure at 80k? Do I have a new engine or just some part that goes on it? hmmm, maybe I can send the file over and see what you think... you've been an awesome help so far! If you are in Central Cal, I can buy you a beer Thanksgiving weekend and let you drive the car... beer after driving of course.. lol. Edit: Oh ya, will snub mount help with this many miles to help other mounts age more "gracefully" for now?

[RakkCity]

Ya, that sounds great! Since the car has 96xxx but is approaching it's 11th build b-day in January, I just want to get major maintenance done so I can have a reliable 2017... Also forgot to add, got a JHM Tip trans service kit off the classifieds here, that may have to wait a little, but maybe just 2 months max right after the holidays. So ya, I'll skip the s-belt tensioner and rollers then, only weird noise I get is a bit of whining when car is cold, prob could be anything. But I can definitely PayPal you on Friday for the DV, I was looking at he GFB or Awe tuning upgrade, bt factory Rev D for $30 works for now... Also, I got the the 95%+ complete service records that show some interesting stuff "Engine assy" after a cam failure at 80k? Do I have a new engine or just some part that goes on it? hmmm, maybe I can send the file over and see what you think... you've been an awesome help so far! If you are in Central Cal, I can buy you a beer Thanks giving weekend and let you drive the car... beer after driving of course.. lol.

Whining could just be the old belt. My car was chirping and squealing on startup and if I bogged the motor, turned out to be the tensioner and not the belt. Still does it very slightly but not enough for me to chase down the culprit.

I'll check the garage tomorrow and PM you to let you know if I have it (I'm 99% sure I do, just a matter of finding it). As far as the engine assy, that could be a new motor or could just be that they replaced the intake cam and HPFP. Feel free to PM me with your email and I'll take a look at the file (though someone more experienced with dealer documentation might be more of a help).

Appreciate the offer but I'm in SoCal and my retail job means Thanksgiving weekend is busy af. :( Just pay it forward when an opportunity comes knocking!

[RakkCity]

Also the snub mount can be changed in 15 minutes with the front clip on. It's very easy and at the bottom of the motor. Your motor mounts would be a much better thing to take care of with the clip off, but they're $100ea and at least at hour of labor. DanKing has a set of 034 street density for sale, that's what I'm running and the difference was night and day on my 130k mile whip.

[danbfree]

Whining could just be the old belt. My car was chirping and squealing on startup and if I bogged the motor, turned out to be the tensioner and not the belt. Still does it very slightly but not enough for me to chase down the culprit.

I'll check the garage tomorrow and PM you to let you know if I have it (I'm 99% sure I do, just a matter of finding it). As far as the engine assy, that could be a new motor or could just be that they replaced the intake cam and HPFP. Feel free to PM me with your email and I'll take a look at the file (though someone more experienced with dealer documentation might be more of a help).

Appreciate the offer but I'm in SoCal and my retail job means Thanksgiving weekend is busy af. :( Just pay it forward when an opportunity comes knocking!

Also the snub mount can be changed in 15 minutes with the front clip on. It's very easy and at the bottom of the motor. Your motor mounts would be a much better thing to take care of with the clip off, but they're $100ea and at least at hour of labor. DanKing has a set of 034 street density for sale, that's what I'm running and the difference was night and day on my 130k mile whip.

Thanks, my man.. we have fam down in SoCal too and spent a few years down there myself... Anyway, I'll PM you my e-mail and you can see what you think, prob just a cam/HPFP job based on the rest of the comments there but lots of other interesting stuff so any feedback, at all, by someone as knowledgeable as you would be great.

[danbfree]

Do the Tstat while you have the front end off. You'll need to remove the alternator and having the serpentine already off and the increased access will help. Plus the coolant will already be drained so there's that.

Also a great time to throw in a GFB DV+ or an OEM Rev D if you haven't already. Check your wastegate actuator rod make sure it's nice and tight. Definitely replace the serpentine and its tensioner, it needs to come off anyway to access the TB so your cost should just be parts. Labor down the road will be much more expensive without the front clip off.

Is "intake flap motor" the same thing as wastegate actuator rod? If so, thats kind of funny terminology coming from the dealer mechanics... and mine was done at 50k. LOL, it's only been stock but I'll have them check the wastegate actuator while in there.

[RakkCity]

Is "intake flap motor" the same thing as wastegate actuator rod? If so, thats kind of funny terminology coming from the dealer mechanics... and mine was done at 50k. LOL, it's only been stock but I'll have them check the wastegate actuator while in there.

No, flap motor is on the intake manifold, wastegate is on the turbo.


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[danbfree]

No, flap motor is on the intake manifold, wastegate is on the turbo.


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Ok, I knew that and my really bad attempt at a joke when I was super tired didn't work. :)

[Sanjman]

Rods and flaps? Confused

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[RakkCity]

Ok, I knew that and my really bad attempt at a joke when I was super tired didn't work. :)

That was... Just awful lol


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[danbfree]

That was... Just awful lol

Ya, bad recovery after I DID get them confused for a second and made a bad joke as a recovery method :D

So, being told by one mechanic, don't bother with accessory belt tensioner and rollers as I'm still under 100k.. ok, cool... but my other one says to not even bother with thermostat for now either, no need to as very similar repair time either way.. So that keeps it simple for now I guess, get the T-belt/WP/S-belt only done for now and take peace of mind the most important service needed done at 96k and almost 11 years is out of the way.... and I get to save some money for Black Friday. :D

[RakkCity]

Ya, bad recovery after I DID get them confused for a second and made a bad joke as a recovery method :D

So, being told by one mechanic, don't bother with accessory belt tensioner and rollers as I'm still under 100k.. ok, cool... but my other one says to not even bother with thermostat for now either, no need to as very similar repair time either way.. So that keeps it simple for now I guess, get the T-belt/WP/S-belt only done for now and take peace of mind the most important service needed done at 96k and almost 11 years is out of the way.... and I get to save some money for Black Friday. :D

While you're doing maintenance change your fuel filter. It's <$20 and takes all of 10 minutes to swap out. You can do that anytime but if you haven't done it yet I would get on that.

The tstat isn't hard with the front on, but you have to remove the serpentine belt and alternator to get to it, so if that's already gonna be off I would change it. But then again I have a complex for cooling system failures from my previous car so..


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[danbfree]

While you're doing maintenance change your fuel filter. It's <$20 and takes all of 10 minutes to swap out. You can do that anytime but if you haven't done it yet I would get on that.

The tstat isn't hard with the front on, but you have to remove the serpentine belt and alternator to get to it, so if that's already gonna be off I would change it. But then again I have a complex for cooling system failures from my previous car so..


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I have to admit, I try to get real world maintenance advice and not always follow manufacturer guidelines so often should fuel filter be done? Mine was done once at 55k and I'm under half that mileage additional now...

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[RakkCity]

I have to admit, I try to get real world maintenance advice and not always follow manufacturer guidelines so often should fuel filter be done? Mine was done once at 55k and I'm under half that mileage additional now...

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I wouldn't go longer than 40k miles on a fuel filter, but that's just me. It's super cheap and takes no time at all, but leaving it in too long can cause premature failure of your lift pump.


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[danbfree]

I wouldn't go longer than 40k miles on a fuel filter, but that's just me. It's super cheap and takes no time at all, but leaving it in too long can cause premature failure of your lift pump.


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Prefect, good to know, I'll just take care of it now then, thanks.

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