What is going on? No start after flywheel change

[Royal769sr]

https://youtu.be/4ewrU5Ntsd0

I can't figure out why it is doing this. Changed my dmfw for a new aluminum fidanza 11621 and now this. Thought it was my starter so changed that and still happens. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance!

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[getslideways]

What do you mean by no start? Like the motor doesnt crank, or crank and doesnt fire?

Can you hear the starter spinning? Can you hear the starter solenoid click? Reconnect grounds and all connections on the starter? You can check the starter relay wire to see if its getting 12v when the key is turned.

[Royal769sr]

The starter will engage sometimes, sometimes it won't. First try in video you can hear it crank for a second

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[kalyjor]

I was told by another owner that the flywheel has to be marked like the cam gears when replacing the timing belt, something with the teeth of the flywheel lining up to a timing sensor

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[big_jerm]

sounds like the starter gears are grinding? does the car have any fault codes?


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[Royal769sr]

Thanks for the the input guys. As far as codes go, I can check in the morning.

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[zillarob]

Never seen it, but heard the starter can get hung up on its locating dowel and do weird shit.

You put the bellhousing spacer back in?

[rguil]

]Your starter is misaligned.
I like zillarobs suggestions.


Here is what that dowel looks like on my spare motor, i believe this is the wrong position as it dosent align with my starter. Others have noted that this is the correct position for the dowel. Perhaps it was too rusty for the starter to fit

I dont know if you could get the trans all the way in without the spacer however!

[rguil]

I was told by another owner that the flywheel has to be marked like the cam gears when replacing the timing belt, something with the teeth of the flywheel lining up to a timing sensor

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Flywheel only bolts on one way. If he got it on the crank and all the bolts in, it is aligned properly.


You are correct, the 60-2 wheel does need to be aligned with the VR sensor in a proper spot to run properly.
Useless info for this thread but, each tooth is 6 degrees apart with 2 missing teeth. the missing teeth indicate to the ECU what cycle the motor is currently on.
i think the alignment is 60% before cylinder 1 TDC if i remember properly. I havent verified this with Automatic 2.7s, only manuals as the VR sensor is in a different spot on the Auto trans

[zillarob]

That dowel looks right to me?
My guess is people munch them when putting in an engine stand? My buddy did it some how, but I wasnt there to see the how or why.

You prob right on the spacer, just throwing it out there

It prob takes effort, but people have put fidanzas on wrong before.

I doubt that is what is going on here though.
It would crank over fine, but have cel and cam codes.

[rguil]

That dowel looks right to me?
My guess is people munch them when putting in an engine stand? My buddy did it some how, but I wasnt there to see the how or why.

You prob right on the spacer, just throwing it out there

It prob takes effort, but people have put fidanzas on wrong before.

I doubt that is what is going on here though.
It would crank over fine, but have cel and cam codes.

I think you perhaps might be actually right in regards to the dowel needing to be pushed all the way out.
When i checked compression on that spare motor i had to hammer the dowel flywheel side to get my starter to mount properly however.
I was actually having the same problem as OP with the dowel in the wrong spot as shown above, the starter kept grinding against the teeth of the flywheel when trying to engange even if it was just off by a degree and i couldnt get my starter mounted on that dowel.

i dont want to pull the starter out of my running car just to look at the dowel to know the real answer though lol

Looking at the starter on ECS,
I see the provision for the dowel
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-pa...rter/sr0422kt/
Maybe the misalignment is occuring on the bottom bolt with the wrong bolt being used or something.

[zillarob]

Ya, pretty sure that dowel is supposed to stick out like that on the starter side.
I have a big nut that I use when putting in the stand so I dont muck it up.

The only one I have seen down there myself is the starter running into the wg can. Stuff gets real tight in that area, especially with bigger turbos.
Clocking has always gotten it by on k04 sized turbos, but had to do some detail grinding on the starter to clear the can on 770s.
Never installed k24s so not sure how they line up.

[S4James]

do make sure you didnt knock the trigger wire on the starter loose... mine had a broken retaining clip and slid off just enough to break contact.

[naudlee]

Flywheel only bolts on one way. If he got it on the crank and all the bolts in, it is aligned properly.


You are correct, the 60-2 wheel does need to be aligned with the VR sensor in a proper spot to run properly.
Useless info for this thread but, each tooth is 6 degrees apart with 2 missing teeth. the missing teeth indicate to the ECU what cycle the motor is currently on.
i think the alignment is 60% before cylinder 1 TDC if i remember properly. I havent verified this with Automatic 2.7s, only manuals as the VR sensor is in a different spot on the Auto trans

I've seen dummies blast on the cheap aluminum flywheels incorrectly, thinking they are clocked properly, only to oval the bolt holes to the crank. Lack of knowledge is a killer...

[blitz2190]

the fidanza flywheel has slightly looser tolerances that can allow you to install it 180 out. I did exactly that with mine and cranked forever with no start. from the sound of the video though something isn't spaced right. I never got that grinding sound on mine when it was backwards.

[Royal769sr]

Thanks for the help guys, I will getb under the car and see if I can adjustv the starter at all. I did see the dowel and made sure I got it on there.

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[S4FTW]

I ran into a similar issue with my car. One of the spline/dowel got pushed in (toward the transmission) so the starter did not align perfectly. The starter gear was able to pop out and crank the flywheel but it wasn't able to retract because of this slight mis-alignment.

Try turning your crank pulley by hand using a ratchet to see if you can easily turn it. In my case, I could NOT.

Thread on my issue: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...grinding-noise

[Royal769sr]

20161102_113545.jpg

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[Royal769sr]

Looks like my pp was rubbing inside the bellhousing

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[themadscientist]

Did you happen to measure the installed stack height of the new clutch and flywheel?

[Royal769sr]

No but today after I took everything out, the flywheel is actually thinner than stock. I think I had it oriented wrong to be honest.

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[zillarob]

If you have it at tdc, the -2 window will be up near the dside turbo at like 10-11 o'clock.

What clutch setup you have?

[Royal769sr]

Fixed it. Right now using a spec pp and a 6 puck clutch.

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[zillarob]

Is that the right tob? All the spec clutches I have installed used the thicker tob.
The one in your pic is for a luk oem style pp and wont work with the sachs pp many use.

[Royal769sr]

Is that the right tob? All the spec clutches I have installed used the thicker tob.
The one in your pic is for a luk oem style pp and wont work with the sachs pp many use.

Damn!

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[Royal769sr]

20161102_113553.jpg

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[zillarob]

You good on the tob, that is a luk pp.
I have only played with the 3+ with the sachs pp.

[rguil]

20161102_113553.jpg

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That clutch looks used. Did you reset the SAC before install?

[Royal769sr]

Yeah I did

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