Glyco bearings - Calico coating

**vtraudt** · 10-31-2016 11:22 AM

Anything wrong with using Glyco main and rod bearings for engine fresh up?
I noticed (below) that some Calico bearing offers are based on Glyco bearings.

That brings up the next question: I under the benefits of the Calico coating with respect to longevity. But my car/engine will LONG be gone before the (stock lifetime assumed) bearings will need replacement again.
Nothing is said about 'stronger' (for high boost, or more timing, etc).
Waste of money?

Calico Coated Main Bearing Set for Audi V6 2.7T 30V
This is high quality main bearing set for Audi V6 30v Engines, made by Glyco, an OEM supplier. After we receive them, they are sent out to Calico for an anti-friction coating.

**RENOxDECEPTION** · 10-31-2016 11:40 AM

I love the positivity of your engine dying before the bearings :)

Subbed.

**S4gasm2.7t** · 10-31-2016 12:26 PM

The reason you don't see anything about being stronger is because they don't really have to put up with any tensile loads (except for thrust bearings) which have an added side to the bearing for the crank to ride along when the clutch it depressed cause the crank will shift ever so slightly.

The purpose of a bearing is to provide a properly slick/hard surface for the machine polished main/rod journals to spin on. Typically on an "IDEAL" maintained engine, the bearings will last longer than the rest of other internal components (not to be replaced until already in there) however there are 2 main causes for bearing failure which lead to (but doesn't always get that far) spinning a bearing.

1. Lack of lubrication. Journal bearing require constant oil pressure to provide a slippery surface for easy rotation.

2. Too much/ to little bearing to journal clearance. Too much can be caused by lack on lubrication.

The third way a bearing fails, is at the thrust bearings when the side get a worn away from clutch with too much clamping force from just the pressure plate. But I'll get into that if you ask.

For a short time in my career as a tech I worked under the table for engine builder. In the 2 short months I worked there I build 4 or 5 engines (all American v8s, but methods are still the same) on those engines I've used OEM, calico and glyco bearings. I definitely recommend either the calico or glyco as they're coatings are designed to be harder (prevent wear) and give a more smooth/slick surface (let's the crank spin easier, which leads to better engine running and wear)

OEM coatings are ok but under higher heat better coatings are preferred.

The main thing is to get yourself a repair manual, WITH ALL CLEARANCE SPECS. When you set new bearings first place main bearings with plastigauge and torque to spec. Remove main caps and inspect plastigauge to make sure all main clearances are to spec. Clean all surfaces of plastigauge, DO NOT SCRATCH THE CRANK JOURNALS OR BEARINGS. USE A GENTILE SOLVENT AND A SOFT RAG AND TAKE YOUR TIME. Once cleaned, reassemble the crank and main. Torque to spec. Now do your rod & bearings. Again with plastigauge, torque to spec remove and inspect. If your clearances are to much or too little take the find out how much of a difference you need to be within spec, then go to a machine shop amd have them get you the properly fitted bearings.

Note, if you haven't line honed the block AND had the crank shaft re-ground for perfect shape and uniform journal sizes. The bearing clearances could all be different. so first main may need 3 thousands thicker of a bearing to take up space while the 2nd bearing may be in spec.

Doing this ensures that the main and rod bearings are all going to be on the right range to provide proper oil pressure and rotational ability while not causing too MUCH or little oil pressure and not letting the crank bounce around/ or be too tight, preventing the crank from spinning.

Now, I'm not by any means a guru or crazy expert but i know my fair share and I'm always trying to learn. So if you have an questions I'd be glad to help if I can.

And if I get something wrong someone please correct me with a proper answer and explanation and it'll be appreciated.

Hope this help.

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**themadscientist** · 10-31-2016 01:58 PM

Coated bearings are just a layer of protection, and helps prevent wear on cold(dry) starts.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013...ng-clearances/

**Monty23** · 10-31-2016 02:06 PM

I used glyco rod bearings (non-coated). No issues with about 35k miles since I rebuilt the motor.

**christianb5s4** · 10-31-2016 05:42 PM

I'm using Glyco rod bearings on my build, haven't seen anything negative on them when I did research before purchasing.

**rguil** · 11-01-2016 12:56 PM

I used coated main bearings and rod bearings when i built my 2.7
"They say" that the majority of engine wear occurs during initial start up. It was my hope that the coated bearings added another layer of protection before proper oil pressure was achieved.
No issues so far.
No metal flakes in the oil filter or in the pan after the break in oil change. So thats good

**vtraudt** · 11-02-2016 02:43 PM

Thanks for the information and good background tech.
It confirms my thought. No sense paying for fancy ceramic coating for an engine will likely be crushed with the car in 50k miles (being 20 years old by then and having 300k miles on it).
If the original bearings (non ceramic coated) lasted 170k, there is a good chance that the Glyco will last 80k (and only have to last 40k maybe in reality).

I also came across the "King" brand, but unknown here, so I stick with Glyco.

**S4gasm2.7t** · 11-09-2016 09:48 PM

Originally Posted by rguil

I used coated main bearings and rod bearings when i built my 2.7
"They say" that the majority of engine wear occurs during initial start up. It was my hope that the coated bearings added another layer of protection before proper oil pressure was achieved.
No issues so far.
No metal flakes in the oil filter or in the pan after the break in oil change. So thats good

Im not saying this in a rude way so please don't think that. But it's not a they say thing. It's proven fact. Initial start up is where the most damaging wear will happen. This I why you should ALWAYS use assembly lube (lol lube) assembly lube is a thick lubricant and is designed to be used on any bearing surfaces and on many valvetrains wear oil would drain down and leave the surfaces dry. Once the engine starts up and running for a few mins warming up the lube dissipates into the engine oil and you have to change the oil and filters.

Some people say you dont need to use a lubricant and can assemble dry. "Sometimes" this will work. But why would you risk it. It costs $20 or less for a tub of assembly lube takes no time to slop some on (BTW USE LIBERALLY)
I've seen brand new bearings get wiped out in under 30 sec. Remember an average engine takes at least 30 sec to build up proper oil pressure. Don't risk it and cover your ass, and your wallet.

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**rguil** · 11-09-2016 11:24 PM

Originally Posted by S4gasm2.7t

Im not saying this in a rude way so please don't think that. But it's not a they say thing. It's proven fact. Initial start up is where the most damaging wear will happen. This I why you should ALWAYS use assembly lube (lol lube) assembly lube is a thick lubricant and is designed to be used on any bearing surfaces and on many valvetrains wear oil would drain down and leave the surfaces dry. Once the engine starts up and running for a few mins warming up the lube dissipates into the engine oil and you have to change the oil and filters.

Some people say you dont need to use a lubricant and can assemble dry. "Sometimes" this will work. But why would you risk it. It costs $20 or less for a tub of assembly lube takes no time to slop some on (BTW USE LIBERALLY)
I've seen brand new bearings get wiped out in under 30 sec. Remember an average engine takes at least 30 sec to build up proper oil pressure. Don't risk it and cover your ass, and your wallet.

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I just said "some say" because i dont like to say aynthing like it is a fact because there is always someone that knows more than i do and everyone has their own opinion.
Even dudes with their own tv show about building cars (gas monkey garage for example) state things like its fact and spin bearings more often than not.

**vtraudt** · 11-10-2016 04:31 AM

The original bearings are uncoated, correct?
Mine lasted 150k (still running).
If Glyco or King uncoated gives me 150K like stock, I am not paying 50% more to get 50K more (not sure if any info is out there) for coated ones.

Just wanted to find out if the ceramic coating does anything for higher loading (more HP, high cylinder pressure, higher rod stress); think upgraded rods vs stock rods.
This does not seem to be case, purely additional protection again long life wear. Another 15 years on this engine is just fine for my application.....

**Seerlah** · 11-10-2016 05:34 PM

I forget the name of the main corporation, but they are all the same company. Glyco, Goetze, etc. I don't own a 2.7T, but run Glyco bearings in my built block. Nothing wrong with Glyco at all. Coating is just a coating. Journals will still travel on that thin layer of oil. The coating is just there for better protection, but know tolerances change with that coating. I used non-coated ones and went with Haynes specs.

Found them: http://www.federalmogul.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx

**vtraudt** · 11-11-2017 05:22 AM

I am looking for the torque specs for Glyco main bearing and Glyco rod bearings.
Can seem to find specs.
Use torque for stock bolts instead?

I have:

Glyco A138/4 Thurst bearing set
Glyco H034/4 STD Crankshaft main bearing
Glyco 71-3711/6 STD Connecting rods bearings

2.7T APB engine.

**Mille Bornes** · 11-11-2017 08:39 AM

Not an expert, but I assume if you're using stock bolts you would follow stock torque specs. You should be shooting for the same clearances so the torque would just depend on your bolts or studs if you have them.

**S4James** · 11-11-2017 08:42 AM

Someone that I used to know used Gotye bearings..

It didn't work out.

**vtraudt** · 11-11-2017 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by S4James

Someone that I used to know used Gotye bearings..

It didn't work out.

Never heard of Gotye. Glyco (and their associated brand names; they make lots of other brands) are well known.

**vtraudt** · 11-11-2017 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by Mille Bornes

Not an expert, but I assume if you're using stock bolts you would follow stock torque specs. You should be shooting for the same clearances so the torque would just depend on your bolts or studs if you have them.

Need to find the spec from the rod manufacturer, and what bolts they supply with the rods.