Originally Posted by
eljay
What do I need for my clutch replacement including any "while I'm there" parts? It's 2005 1.8T Quattro, 6-speed, GTRS, with 174k miles and, afaik, all original components.
1. Valeo SMFW conversion kit - 52285615
-- contains solid flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throw-out bearing, flywheel mounting bolts, clutch alignment tool)
2. clutch pilot bearing - 056105313C
3. clutch fork - 01X141719B
4. clutch release arm - 012141751C
5. clutch release spring - 012141741
6. ball stud - 012141777D
7. rear main seal - 06A103171A
8. transmission mount - 8E0399105HQ (can I just replace the rubber part? ECS seems to list both under the same part #:
full and
rubber-only)
9. transmission fluid
I got items 3-6 from old guy's recommendation in
this thread.
Anything to add to this? Any bolts to replace on the parts that will be removed?
I found this clutch installation kit on ECS:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4...Kit/ES2589667/
Should I grab all of those components? It seems that besides my list above, it contains driveshaft and exhaust bolts and gaskets.
Since the exhaust has to come off, I will install my new exhaust setup when done with the clutch replacement.
I will be placing my order today or tomorrow so, thank you in advance for any help.
On my 3L, I did RMS replacement at the same time. I think I found the seal alone for ~$8-$13 on AutoHausAZ or something, with a PN I found on an online interactive Corteco catalog or something. One of those seal makers. You know, Reinz, Elring, etc.
I took my time to get it right, and I assume it is, since no leaks.
But diagnosticator says those should last an engine lifetime, and shouldn't leak if the PCV system is in proper working order applying crank vacuum rather than pressure.
I don't think I changed the tube that the TOB slides on. I heard you only should if it's in bad shape and scored. And there may be a trans input shaft that mounts to the back of that.
It seems generally ETKA specs a particular blue grease for radial shaft seals, I forget PN, if you do that. Such as selector shaft seal. There was a DIY somewhere.
Maybe other grease works? IDK. At least not petroleum-based tub of Disc Wheel Bearing Grease from AutoZone, because that eats through/dissolves. Whereas my NAPA Sil-Glyde (silicone-based) doesn't, so I've used it on stuff like caliper pin boots.
I think ECS might be misreading manual instructions. "Replace" does not mean "buy new driveshaft bolts". It means "don't forget to put them back in place where they were". It probably also says "replace wheel", which no, does not mean you need a new $10,000 wheel every tire change like a Bugatti Veyron.
However, my word too, is to be taken with a grain of salt. Guess all I can say is to use your best judgement and hope for the best.
For example, I got new propshaft gaskets. I think I skipped re-greasing their joints. But otherwise, I re-used the bolts. But my Craftsman bit fit well and didn't do much damage. If I put a loose HFT bit, it would probably strip the head, and I'd NEED new bolts, without a choice. I probably took extra prep measures to loosen it too though, since I knew it's high-torque. ie heating it, putting cold water in the allen hole with eye dropper, etc.
I didn't replace the ball stud that the fork rides on, but the manual asks to put a specific grease. I think I used whatever little packet came with the kit, clutch spline grease.
And, for 3L RMS, the metal case it mounts into needs to be re-sealed onto the back of the engine too, with an anaerobic sealant. I only used HondaBond HT because it's what I had.
IDK if replacing that's even necessary.
I think I saw also a "repair kit" with plastic shifter ball on the gearbox, dunno if that's worth it.
On 3L DP's, I ran into issue installing new hex nuts that didn't match the originals that came off. TBH I probably could've just re-used those.
And they ruined the stud thread.
I wanted to clean things too but I didn't. walky said you can check if trans input shaft seal leaks by standing gearbox upright. At that point, some people degrease, wash, clean, paint, etc.
Dunno if 3M Roloc, Nyalox, wire brush, etc. has a place in that.
I only wiped the bellhousing inside a bit with paper towels.
Motor mounts?
Trans mount maybe.
Manual says damage is caused if the DP flex joint is bent past 30°
My AST6300 doesn't strip half-shaft bolts either.
I hear the gearbox output flanges (x2 sides, x1 rear) have seals that can leak. Mine aren't, and I ignored that area.
Gear oil, I know people have used Motul Gear 300, and it seems good when hot. But otherwise I like Fuchs Titan SintoFluid SAE 75w80 as per Scotty@AA. Their site says it corresponds to a general OE PN that spans 01A, 01E, and B7. I don't think I found B6 02X on their catalog which makes no sense since B7 is also 02X, but a different code (GVE, vs. GJW/GJV) to show different gear ratios.
If you're disconnecting propshaft, maybe something to clean off the old red loc-tite from the bolts, and of course new red loc-tite.
You could rebuild the halfshafts, but that can also be done at a later date separately, if you wanna service them. Or don't, let them break, and install Raxles or something, which is OEM.
A solvent such as brake-cleaner to clean the flywheel mating surface/face? I believe FW's and brake discs get coated with some oil to keep the fresh bare metal from rusting while it sits on a warehouse shelf waiting for you to buy it.
Originally Posted by
Kevin C
FYI,
Another option is you can also put in a stock dual mass from a B7 2.0T. You need the block spacer and starter motor from a 2.0T six speed and there is a boss on the 1.8T's block that needs to be trimmed back so that the starter motors solenoid clears. That gets you a dual mass, sprung hub disc self adjusting pressure plate and a 240mm disk.
That was my choice based on a personal preference to keep the dual mass flywheel but get something a little better than stock . My theory is with the taller gearing of the six speed it would allow me to use sixth more often on the highway. Since I never had a single mass to compare it to, no clue if it helps. My previous clutch was a dual mass with a non sprung hub (stock 1.8T). The dual mass with the sprung hub is definitely smoother at low RPM's. The improvement was also noticeable when driving in slow traffic and school zones when your a bit fast for first and a little slow for second. Or fast for second and slow for third..... You get the idea.
I forgot about this...
Was it DMF049 LuK from RockAuto? I think the whole kit is $400. That's what 3L 02X uses. IDK about early 01E, maybe the same thing.
Well, I think every Audi after used that, V6, V8, 2.0T, etc. 240mm, as posted earlier in another thread, but BFI says upcoming A4 MT will revert to 228.
What do you mean "taller, 6th, highway". Is that because with a low power engine, having more weight on the FW is momentum to make it easier? Or are you at a speed where it acts like overdrive at low RPM for efficiency, but you wanted to make sure it feels good there too, without running into smoothness issue?
Interesting...So is 240mm DMF > 228mm DMF?
IDK what mine is doing. Gear lash teeth rattle? Or if I need to add euro TDI bellypan sound insulation? Because it's noisy.
I have the Valeo kit and drove it back-to-back with DMF's. Yet Charles says he loves it. IDK how. Was mine installed wrong? There's not much that can go wrong. A disc slides onto a splined shaft. That's it. I mean yeah, you have to align it in a way that it's smooth, but that comes in the instructions. Ikea furniture a 5yr old could handle.
And yeah, sometimes it's school-zones. Or speed bumps. Shopping centers. Traffic. Or the car isn't fully warmed up yet so you're taking it easy.
Mine seems to put out some bass resonance falling below 2.4k rpm, such as off-throttle engine braking. Almost like a train passing next to you.
It's not a gutted track car with a big wing. You can hear it from outside too.
Basically it's fine 2.5k-5k but not below.
And I hear stock 1.8T has no Fluidampr, and is an unbalanced crank without counterweights. Not a smooth V6 or V8.
So I asked OG who has the same kit and apparently his doesn't do this.
Well, 240mm is big and heavy. I guess Audi saw the 3L has having enough power to be fine with it still. 220chp/tq.
Not sure how stock slower 1.8T fares. Or if it needs mods such as tune, etc.
I mean, how much faster does SMF spin up, .1sec? Is it worth it?
Pedal bite seems much lower.
Especially parking. I saw a UK driver training video (most cars are stick there) which said blip throttle first.
On my 3L DMF 240mm, I could just let out the clutch to bite and it'd move. Dunno if this wears the FW dampening.
But now, to try and keep the car from shaking itself apart, I'll give some RPM gas FIRST then try to modulate the clutch, trying to slip as little as possible to preserve it.
In other words, instead of fighting contact shock with a dampener, the FW is now solid so I fight it with slippage, to make it smooth and prevent stalling.
Originally Posted by
Human Garbage
Don't put a stock fork in there if you are doing a clutch. Those things are ticking time bombs. My Jetta had the same symptoms as your car and it was because the fork pretzeled itself. I reinforced a replacement stock one by TIG welding a plate on most of the open side. Nothing like having to pull your trans at half life on a clutch to replace a crappy $30 part...
Isn't that more of a thing on MKIV Jetta?
The fork seems pretty strong. But I think OG's bent before. Are you saying get aftermarket or weld/reinforce it? Or install new OE and discard original?
Originally Posted by
Seerlah
Upgrade to a more beefier clutch, replace pilot bearing, replace throw out bearing, inspect old clutch setup when you take it out to confirm what really happened (it will be quite obvious once taken out), be sure to look over twice the area of damage old clutch would have effected on the transmission and/or components, make sure clutch fork is not bent (hard to do without a non bent one in front of you to compare), swap in new clutch, don't EVER let a girl drive your car again (well, not someone who isn't into cars herself. that and one who is simply a really good driver. my sister is one and would have babied my FX400 clutch. only girl to have driven my car), and don't EVER let a girl drive your car again.
Is it that harmful? It takes time for the foot to adapt to a new clutch especially if you're rushing it. Or if the slave could use another bleed?
Point is, I've had people drive my car. I get back in, clutch feels different. IDK if it's slightly glazed or what.
But it always goes back to normal with miles of me driving. I hear the material is supposed to be "self-regenerating". The OE LuK or Sachs part at least.
Not to say that's reason enough to do it.
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