Installing Sub Question

[Roadwarrior]

Hi All,

I picked up the JL 500 watt mono sub amp, JL 12TW3 with JL factory thin enclosure., amp wiring kit, line converter and etc...

I was a car audio installer way back in my hs/college years. I am not completely a noob but I am definitely under an inch of rust and behind the times.

I started the process tonight. I secured the power/fuse and ground. I have figured out to get the remote wire lead from the accessory outlet in the trunk. I am left figuring out where to pull the lead for my line level converter. I have read a dozen posts and I have read varying approaches. So far, the best I have seen indicate pulling the lead from output on the bose amp. My bose amp is deep in the compartment on the drivers side and not easy to get too. Before I go any further, I wanted to see if anyone was successful tapping the lines going into the factory sub. My sub has a black, solid gray and gray/purple if I recall correctly from looking at the factory plug feeding the subwafer.

BTW, this sub is so small and thin that you could mount is pretty much anywhere and keep our trunk space at near full capacity. I do plan to dye the white JL logo black to make the box disappear. I highly recommend this sub/box combo for those that want to save space and add bass.


Thanks in advance.

[Roadwarrior]

BTW, I am not a bass head. One of my hobbies is 2 channel stereo. I just want to add a little weight to the music.

[RAF_S7]

I have this installed in my S7

I just disconnected the factory sub and connected the wires to the JL speaker level inputs. You have a L&R speaker level input, so wire the factory cable in parallel to both speaker level inputs. Leave the factory sub in place but completely disconnected.

The amp has remote sensing, so as long as you select that on the control panel there is no need to run a remote sensing turn on line.

You need power, and speaker level inputs nothing else. It's a real easy install and works well.

Some of the more folks on here will recommend a much more complex approach, involving an optical converter etc. In a car, you honestly don't need it imo. There are a few threads dedicated to this subject, just search for "subwoofer install"

Crank up the volume and enjoy

[Roadwarrior]

Update- I installed everything this morning and the sub, remote, amp all work as intended. However, I now am dealing with the dreaded Bose noise cancelling (ANC) system. This seems to happen at low speeds and and when parked.

I have read some people have this issue and it seems others do not. I am not sure if it matters but the line converter tapped the speaker leads at the factory sub. I really don't want to start cutting the microphones to fix this. Surely there must be a solution for this.

Any help or links to threads with a suitable solution would be appreciated very much.

[wwhan]

Update- I installed everything this morning and the sub, remote, amp all work as intended. However, I now am dealing with the dreaded Bose noise cancelling (ANC) system. This seems to happen at low speeds and and when parked.

I have read some people have this issue and it seems others do not. I am not sure if it matters but the line converter tapped the speaker leads at the factory sub. I really don't want to start cutting the microphones to fix this. Surely there must be a solution for this.

Any help or links to threads with a suitable solution would be appreciated very much.

The ANC is calibrated to the stock vehicle.

This is most likely to happen to people with non-stock exhaust. It may also be affected by the change in speaker phasing and/or location.

One can turn off the ANC, with VAGCOM, I think.

[wwhan]

This may be useful to turn off ANC: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11480298

Note about turning ANC back on, for it to self calibrate: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11510662

[Roadwarrior]

More experimentation-

1. The big problems occur when I try to shift bass load from my stock system to the Sub by turning down bass and adding gain to the amp.

2. When I turn the gain down and simply use the bass controls in mmi so the "bass" is at 3-5 O'clock. I don't get any of the annoying ANC issue and do get the deep rich bass I was after. Who would have thought the solution would be opposite what conventional wisdom is. I could be proven wrong in the long run but for now it works.

I plan to experiment further but so far this working without VAG, eliminating microphones or anything major.

Will report back later.