Switching maf sensors

[blakemorgs]

I know this is probably quite the noob question and I am a noob, my maf sensor is going out, threw a check engine light for misfires and running lean on both banks after I pulled the y pipe looking for a power steering leak. Ran fine before I did this and I did hit the maf sensor a few times in the process. My car is a stage 3 and I was wondering if it would matter if I switched from whatever sensor is in it to a hitachi one, the one thats in it looks like it might even be stock but I know its not a hitachi. While searching I read a little bit about hitachi reading different compared to bosch etc. I do have the epl fueling kit with their maf housing. Any information helps! Thank you!

[FlyboyS4]

I think it would be quite the coincidence that the MAF sensor went bad in conjunction with pulling the y-pipe. You sure you don't just have a leak?

If you have the EPL MAF housing then I would be very surprised if the sensor were anything other than Hitachi.

[Corradovolksb]

My vote is on a leak somewhere. Double check all of your connections and vacuum lines and oneway valves. They can get brittle over time and brake when they are touched. A lean condition will cause misfires if it's lean enough.

[blakemorgs]

I'm not the most experienced working on cars and my first thought was vacuum leak too however after the car readjusted my boost gauge was reading 18-20 hg in vacuum at idle. I might have hit the maf sensor a few times because I found some traces of oil in the ypipe and maf housing so I was wiping it off. Could be a hitachi and I'm just stupid, I searched the part number from the maf sensor and it came up with some b7 maf sensor so I was assuming in might be the factory maf sensor. Thanks again for all reply's!

[FlyboyS4]

The boost gauge will be reading from the intake manifold or fuel pressure regulator line, the location of your leak is most probably prior to the turbocharger, so the boost gauge reading is irrelevant.

[tasinb5s4]

Even if you change MAF from Bosch to Hitachi , gotta have pigtail adapter , gotta have diffrent tune , you have to some changes to your cluster change codes

Easy way just dowble check you MAF , you my drop it or something now it's acting up

[blakemorgs]

Even if you change MAF from Bosch to Hitachi , gotta have pigtail adapter , gotta have diffrent tune , you have to some changes to your cluster change codes

Easy way just dowble check you MAF , you my drop it or something now it's acting up

Thank you, that's what I was wondering.

[blakemorgs]

The boost gauge will be reading from the intake manifold or fuel pressure regulator line, the location of your leak is most probably prior to the turbocharger, so the boost gauge reading is irrelevant.

Any common places to look for a vacuum leak? I only pulled the air box and the y pipe, never disconnected the maf housing and accordion just set them to the side.

[erykv1]

your best bet is to build a boost leak tester. theres only so much you can visually check.

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5...ure_Tester.pdf

[seanf86]

Even if you change MAF from Bosch to Hitachi , gotta have pigtail adapter , gotta have diffrent tune , you have to some changes to your cluster change codes

Easy way just dowble check you MAF , you my drop it or something now it's acting up

what kind of changes do you have to make to the cluster coding? just curious

[blakemorgs]

your best bet is to build a boost leak tester. theres only so much you can visually check.

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5...ure_Tester.pdf

Will do, thank you!

[tasinb5s4]

you have to change values ,
Google it it will come up on Wikipedia