Clutch Replacement

[DubProblems]

So I just bought a C5 Allroad 6spd with 100k miles and the clutch is slipping. Deciding to replace myself. What am I getting myself into? I have read a couple of things such as replace flywheel because DMF cant be resurfaced, replace with SMF vs DMF, get an upgraded clutch if you plan on putting down any power.

I plan on running stage 2 on this car eventually

I am torn between these two options
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-All_Road--2.7T/ES1327/
with
https://www.amazon.com/LuK-DMF027-Cl.../dp/B000CIAWMG

OR
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-valeo-pa...01EaAuyj8P8HAQ

What is your guys opinions? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Royal769sr]

Stage 2? I think a regular rs4 setup is fine

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[seanriv]

Rs4 all the way


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[4rings2turbos]

I went to do my clutch this past Spring on jack stands in my garage. I started with the intention of leaving the motor in place but in the end I pulled everything together. I'm very happy I did, it made working on it so much easier and now I know that pulling the motor is actually really easy, just a bit time consuming. I used the ECS clutch alignment tool but still had to adjust the flywheel once before the trans would mate. Having to recharge the AC is a slight pain. I was also able to do motor and trans mounts super easily but most importantly, and ultimately why I decided to pull the motor as well, I put my RS 6 steering rack in. If I didn't have the rack I might not have done it that way but I really think that's the easiest. Maybe not quickest but definitely easiest.

I have a B5 RS 4 setup and it does not hold my launches, slips moderately. Other than that it's a great setup. I also went with the Fidanza flywheel. It is noisy! Not obnoxious, but noticeable so I recommend dual mass if you like your car to be refined. Mine looks like it should make a lot of racecar noises so I (mostly) don't mind. But I did at first. The speed increase in revving up and down and ease of throttle blip on downshifts was super welcome though. Easily noticeable.

[Nemesis2747]

I have one of these. Hasn't slipped yet and car revs quickly. You will notice some chatter if getting a lighter or singlemass flywheel.

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...h=21_66_68_412

Ecs has a flywheel with a replaceable liner to keep you from resurfacing the flywheel. I pulled the engine and tranny together since i did my K04s at the same time. Some of those bell housing bolts arent the easiest to get to when everything is still in the car.

I put my RS 6 steering rack in.

I would love to hear all about this somewhere. I hear such great things about rs6 steering but never read a definite "IT FITS ON MY A6!" post.

[Royal769sr]

I have one of these. Hasn't slipped yet and car revs quickly. You will notice some chatter if getting a lighter or singlemass flywheel.

https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...h=21_66_68_412

Ecs has a flywheel with a replaceable liner to keep you from resurfacing the flywheel. I pulled the engine and tranny together since i did my K04s at the same time. Some of those bell housing bolts arent the easiest to get to when everything is still in the car.



I would love to hear all about this somewhere. I hear such great things about rs6 steering but never read a definite "IT FITS ON MY A6!" post.

I too am curious about this

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[DubProblems]

Stage 2? I think a regular rs4 setup is fine

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Rs4 all the way


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Ended up buying the ECS RS4 kit and a new DMF, want to retain the stock "comfort" feel

I went to do my clutch this past Spring on jack stands in my garage. I started with the intention of leaving the motor in place but in the end I pulled everything together. I'm very happy I did, it made working on it so much easier and now I know that pulling the motor is actually really easy, just a bit time consuming. I used the ECS clutch alignment tool but still had to adjust the flywheel once before the trans would mate. Having to recharge the AC is a slight pain. I was also able to do motor and trans mounts super easily but most importantly, and ultimately why I decided to pull the motor as well, I put my RS 6 steering rack in. If I didn't have the rack I might not have done it that way but I really think that's the easiest. Maybe not quickest but definitely easiest.

I have a B5 RS 4 setup and it does not hold my launches, slips moderately. Other than that it's a great setup. I also went with the Fidanza flywheel. It is noisy! Not obnoxious, but noticeable so I recommend dual mass if you like your car to be refined. Mine looks like it should make a lot of racecar noises so I (mostly) don't mind. But I did at first. The speed increase in revving up and down and ease of throttle blip on downshifts was super welcome though. Easily noticeable.

First of all love love love the build. Was just about to comment on IG lol. Just got my AR and am excited based off a couple of build threads and yours is definitely one of them. I am actually not too far away and may have to come see it sometime if it doesn't sell ;) I want a wide stance on my AR like yours but I am retaining the bags (I think yours still has the bags?) and all the factory suspension components. Biggest wheel(diameter and width) wheel with what offset and biggest tire you would recommend?

As far as the clutch like I said above I went with the RS4 clutch and stock DMF. My clutch is only slightly slipping right now but I figured with a new flywheel it doesnt really matter if I burn the current one up. Dont even know if anyone can resurface a DMF? Haven't really had experience with launching an AWD yet, FWD is a bit different with power haha. Are we talking clutch dump launch or?? Don't think I will ever do that. I don't really have anything else to put on the car right now so cant decide how I want to tackle getting the tranny out :/

[Audi4.2!]

Hey 4rings2turbos, I'm planning on pulling my motor so I can work on it over the winter, never pulled it before. Is there a source that would give me steps on how to do it?

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[4rings2turbos]

Mini thread jack but feel free to ask any questions in my build thread.

The RS rack is easily one of my favorite mods. Very big change in steering characteristics. Much sharper off center and gives a lot of confidence in the corners. Feels more linear. It was immediately noticeable the first turn I took once it was installed. The ratio changes from 16.1:1 to 14.2:1. To give you an idea that's more direct than M power or AMG rivals. It has no servotronic connection and is a direct fit for all C5 chassis cars. I would not attempt it with the motor in, I would think of reasons to pull it and do a bunch of stuff at the same time.

Thanks for the compliments! I'm 100% factory suspension components, save for adjustable control arms. I don't think anything out there works as well as the actual factory continental bags and struts. Stay well clear of Arnott gen 1 or 2 or anything they ever produce. If you want a quality ride, even if you modify the height (actually especially if you modify the height) save your pennies and stick with ONLY OEM bags and struts. I've been there with the other stuff it simply does not compare. Yes it's better than oem with 180,000 miles on them but sucks compared to brand new OEM. I'm 52mm lower in front and 50mm lower in the rear and it rides just fine. Better than my friend's MKV GTI on factory suspension for example.

I had 9.5" wide with 285/35/19 on the back and it fit without any modification. Probably could have gone wide but the diameter would not have been idea with a 295 or 305. On the front I know for sure 285s do not fit. Maybe if you went with a more narrow running tire like a Michelin, but I had to modify my front flares to shove 285s under there. 275/35/19 fits perfectly though and 9.5s fit.

A dmfw can be resurfaced but apparently it's hit or miss whether or not it will be perfect or whether or not a given shop will be willing. I personally would just go with a new one like you did.

I launch like this: my daz tune has launch control set for 4,400rpm. Clutch depressed, first gear selected, throttle depressed. Then I let the clutch up to the beginning of the biting point to take the slack out of the drivetrain. Then when I launch it's not a dump, the power is fed through quickly but not immediately. Despite the clutch slip and 285 front, 325 rear r compound tires I do still get some slip on dry pavement. It feels pretty good!

I'd love it if you came up for a visit and to see the car. It'll be here when you do :)

[4rings2turbos]

Hey 4rings2turbos, I'm planning on pulling my motor so I can work on it over the winter, never pulled it before. Is there a source that would give me steps on how to do it?

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I missed this one. There's a few write-ups about it and they're very basic in info. I was annoyed by this until I actually went at the motor. It's literally as easy as they make it sound. Step by step disconnecting things. And surprisingly there's not THAT much to disconnect. If you've done your timing belt before then you've done most of it. Front end comes off, drive shaft and axles, wire harness, motor and trans mounts, downpipes, power steering and clutch lines and a couple other little things. That's literally it!

[DubProblems]

Mini thread jack but feel free to ask any questions in my build thread.

The RS rack is easily one of my favorite mods. Very big change in steering characteristics. Much sharper off center and gives a lot of confidence in the corners. Feels more linear. It was immediately noticeable the first turn I took once it was installed. The ratio changes from 16.1:1 to 14.2:1. To give you an idea that's more direct than M power or AMG rivals. It has no servotronic connection and is a direct fit for all C5 chassis cars. I would not attempt it with the motor in, I would think of reasons to pull it and do a bunch of stuff at the same time.

Thanks for the compliments! I'm 100% factory suspension components, save for adjustable control arms. I don't think anything out there works as well as the actual factory continental bags and struts. Stay well clear of Arnott gen 1 or 2 or anything they ever produce. If you want a quality ride, even if you modify the height (actually especially if you modify the height) save your pennies and stick with ONLY OEM bags and struts. I've been there with the other stuff it simply does not compare. Yes it's better than oem with 180,000 miles on them but sucks compared to brand new OEM. I'm 52mm lower in front and 50mm lower in the rear and it rides just fine. Better than my friend's MKV GTI on factory suspension for example.

I had 9.5" wide with 285/35/19 on the back and it fit without any modification. Probably could have gone wide but the diameter would not have been idea with a 295 or 305. On the front I know for sure 285s do not fit. Maybe if you went with a more narrow running tire like a Michelin, but I had to modify my front flares to shove 285s under there. 275/35/19 fits perfectly though and 9.5s fit.

A dmfw can be resurfaced but apparently it's hit or miss whether or not it will be perfect or whether or not a given shop will be willing. I personally would just go with a new one like you did.

I launch like this: my daz tune has launch control set for 4,400rpm. Clutch depressed, first gear selected, throttle depressed. Then I let the clutch up to the beginning of the biting point to take the slack out of the drivetrain. Then when I launch it's not a dump, the power is fed through quickly but not immediately. Despite the clutch slip and 285 front, 325 rear r compound tires I do still get some slip on dry pavement. It feels pretty good!

I'd love it if you came up for a visit and to see the car. It'll be here when you do :)

So I'll be running a squared 19x9.5(really like the Avant Garde M550), I've heard around an offset of 20 is ideal? Was going to go 255/40 but I suppose if a 265/35 or 275/35 will fit i may have some options

[4rings2turbos]

285 fits on 9.5, just depends on what look you're going for. I wanted a true motorsport look so I went for all the tire I could get. I did 255/40 on 8.5, looked great. I love having the extra tire for pothole protection.