Upper control arm removal - Pinch bolt problems

[tmh88]

I was in the process of removing my upper control arms and the pinch bolt broke inside the steering knuckle....of course. Does anyone know if the inside of the knuckle is threaded where the pinch bolt goes through, or is it like the tie rod's connection to the knuckle which isn't threaded and the bolt is held in place by a nut on the outside? Just wondering because before I just drill through I want to make sure there are no threads, because otherwise I'll have to get a screw extractor. From the tiny bit that I can see where the bolt head broke off there are no threads, but I want to make sure there aren't any deep inside.

Thanks

[deusilan]

I was in the process of removing my upper control arms and the pinch bolt broke inside the steering knuckle....of course. Does anyone know if the inside of the knuckle is threaded where the pinch bolt goes through, or is it like the tie rod's connection to the knuckle which isn't threaded and the bolt is held in place by a nut on the outside? Just wondering because before I just drill through I want to make sure there are no threads, because otherwise I'll have to get a screw extractor. From the tiny bit that I can see where the bolt head broke off there are no threads, but I want to make sure there aren't any deep inside.

Thanks

It's not threaded, but it's long. Be mindful to drill straight or you'll be

[Audibot]

Have you considered using a punch to tap it out? I know it's sort of tight, but could help...

[tmh88]

It's not threaded, but it's long. Be mindful to drill straight or you'll be

Great, because I was dreading having to extract that pinch bolt if it was threaded. Hopefully this won't be too painful. I'm sick of this damn car. I'm impatiently waiting for the engine to die so I'll finally have an excuse to get a B8.

- - - Updated - - -

Have you considered using a punch to tap it out? I know it's sort of tight, but could help...

Yep, I beat the hell out of it with a punch and a 20 lb hammer before I thought that it might be threaded. Didn't budge at all, which made me think it might have been threaded.

[jakeoboy67]

remove the spindle completely and put it in a vise , it'll give you more space to work on the broken bolt.

make yourself comfy, you do not want to screw up.

[924Carrera]

remove the spindle completely and put it in a vise , it'll give you more space to work on the broken bolt.

make yourself comfy, you do not want to screw up.

Do that, then drench it in PB Blaster and go have 3 beers, then come back and wail on it some more.

[K2R1D3R]

If understand what your having trouble with correctly then you need to Torch it till the metal expands and then it'll come out with a nice bang


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[tmh88]

remove the spindle completely and put it in a vise , it'll give you more space to work on the broken bolt.

make yourself comfy, you do not want to screw up.

The tie rod is already removed so I have the knuckle turned as far as it'll go and zip tied to the coilover. I've got plenty of room to drill.

Do that, then drench it in PB Blaster and go have 3 beers, then come back and wail on it some more.

I've been spraying it with PB blaster a few times a day for the past couple days and have sufficiently beat the shit out of it with a punch. Tried using a torch too, but no luck. It won't budge.

If understand what your having trouble with correctly then you need to Torch it till the metal expands and then it'll come out with a nice bang

Already tried that a couple of times with no luck. I couldn't get it too hot because the control arm bushings were starting to smoke and I didn't want to damage them. I did everything I could to avoid the flame from coming close to them, but the heat transferred through the metal and at that point there wasn't much else I could do without burning them up.

[roboto_1337]

Have you considered using a punch to tap it out? I know it's sort of tight, but could help...

if you back off the nut on the other side and hit it with a hammer you'll get is started... I wouldn't drill if at all possible...

[coffeysm]

Why don't you try heating the bolt up in small doses and putting wax or use a candle. The heat will suck in the wax through capillary action and act kind of like a lubricant it's similar to how you solder copper pipes together.

[DarrenOman]

Good luck. I got fruatrated at one point and was completely over it. It does get better and you'll be pleased you never gave up. I marvel at the Audi engineers and then feel pleased with myself when all is fixed and working properly.

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[badger.]

remove the spindle completely and put it in a vise , it'll give you more space to work on the broken bolt.

make yourself comfy, you do not want to screw up.

Do that, then drench it in PB Blaster and go have 3 beers, then come back and wail on it some more.

Seconded on taking the spindle completely out if the bolt is truly stuck. It's a bit more work but so worth it, especially if you have to drill. I just disconnected the upper control arms from the strut end and left them connected to the spindle. Soak it long and frequently with PB/kroil.

I actually jacked mine up even worse trying to beat on it in the car and it mushroomed slightly and then bent and pushed part of the threads into the aluminum spindle... I spent an entire weekend removing one damn bolt. Had to drill a bunch, then hammer it through the other way, cutting it off every 1/2" or whatever to maintain clearance. It was like 4 years ago but it still get's me going thinking about it. Went through a few drill bits and a set of punches.

Patience and beer is all you need. Then, be very generous with the antisieze before reinstalling. Coat it, then add some more for good measure, then a bit more, then reinstall . I've been able to push them out with my finger after breaking them free ever since.

[tmh88]

I was able to get it out after about 6 hours of drilling, hammering, cutting and PB blaster. What a pain in the ass, I'm never doing that again. If my passenger side CV goes out I'll gladly pay whatever it takes for someone else to do it.

Next step is to replace my tie rods, which are both shot (inner/outer). Does anyone know what size the ball joint/bolt is on the inner tie rod? I called my local autozone and they have an inner tie rod removal tool for rent, but the guy said it's meant for trucks and probably wouldn't fit mine.

[BCsniper]

Just FYI people, you should not be taking a torch to your spindles. Back on the B5's they were made of steel so using a torch was fine, and very common to do. The newer cars use aluminum and torching them could weaken them and make them more likely to break. I've already seen a couple pictures of people breaking off the piece where the pinch bolt goes. Torching it will only make that more likely to happen.

Also, if you know that getting the bolt out is gonna be that much trouble, just buy a whole new upright. They can be had from part-out cars for $40-100. Spending that much is surely more worth it than wasting a whole weekend

[924Carrera]

Back on the B5's they were made of steel so using a torch was fine, and very common to do. The newer cars use aluminum and torching them could weaken them and make them more likely to break.

That is probably also the source of the problem due to galvanic corrosion.

[AllroadMass]

Also, if you know that getting the bolt out is gonna be that much trouble, just buy a whole new upright. They can be had from part-out cars for $40-100. Spending that much is surely more worth it than wasting a whole weekend

+1.... I bought uprights for my Passat for less than $80 from wolf auto on ebay. Once for the pinch bolt and also had to get one for a seize abs wheel speed sensor that I mangled pretty badly.

It's overkill but I now take the pinch bolt out every year before the winter and clean them up and anti-Semite the heck out of them. Been doing that for past 4 years and it's one of my maintenance item for our vw/Audi.


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[924Carrera]

anti-Semite the heck out of them.

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LOL might want to check the autocorrect on that Nexus 5

[AllroadMass]

LOL might want to check the autocorrect on that Nexus 5

Lol. Sorry for my damn fat fingers.

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[s4nicetry]

Just FYI people, you should not be taking a torch to your spindles. Back on the B5's they were made of steel so using a torch was fine, and very common to do. The newer cars use aluminum and torching them could weaken them and make them more likely to break. I've already seen a couple pictures of people breaking off the piece where the pinch bolt goes. Torching it will only make that more likely to happen.

Also, if you know that getting the bolt out is gonna be that much trouble, just buy a whole new upright. They can be had from part-out cars for $40-100. Spending that much is surely more worth it than wasting a whole weekend

Good to know, I was going to suggest torching the spindle from my b5 experience, didn't realize these were aluminum. Not looking forward to tackling this again, I remember it being hell with the b5!

[AllroadMass]

Who wants to go halfsies? Looks like black magic.

https://youtu.be/p5BLDNAepbs

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[tmh88]

Good news. The entire upper half of my suspension is now disassembled! I took my coilover/upper control arms out today and disassembled them and it only took about 15-20 mins, which was a breath of fresh air after dealing with that damn pinch bolt. Just waiting for my new control arms and tie rods to come and it'll be back on the road by the weekend!

[AllroadMass]

Sweet! Don't forget to preload the suspension before you tighten the arms or you'll shorten the lifespan of the bushings.

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[tmh88]

I finally got everything bolted back together and took it for a drive. The good news is the old cv/axle was the source of the vibrations, but the loud road noise still exists. I'm going to take it in for an alignment and have the wheel bearing replaced too. Hopefully that solves the problem.

[SlickFix]

I was able to get it out after about 6 hours of drilling, hammering, cutting and PB blaster. What a pain in the ass, I'm never doing that again. If my passenger side CV goes out I'll gladly pay whatever it takes for someone else to do it.

Next step is to replace my tie rods, which are both shot (inner/outer). Does anyone know what size the ball joint/bolt is on the inner tie rod? I called my local autozone and they have an inner tie rod removal tool for rent, but the guy said it's meant for trucks and probably wouldn't fit mine.

This Autozone kit has the 38.4mm adapter that you need.

[tmh88]

I rented that kit and none of the adapter pieces fit tight enough. The 38.4mm was just slightly too big and would slip when I applied any pressure. The 1 7/16 was too small and I couldn't even get it over the inner tie rod bolt/ball joint. I ended up using a 1 1/2" wrench which was a better fit. I'm assuming the tie rod is actually 38mm, which is 1.496 inches, so the 1.5" wrench was basically a perfect fit. 38.4mm is 1.51", just a tad too big.

[SlickFix]

Well, that's a bummer. I apologize. I used that kit on my B5 and B6 A4's and B6 S4 and it worked great. I don't understand why it didn't work on yours, unless maybe the B7 has a slightly smaller nut?

[tmh88]

Well, that's a bummer. I apologize. I used that kit on my B5 and B6 A4's and B6 S4 and it worked great. I don't understand why it didn't work on yours, unless maybe the B7 has a slightly smaller nut?

No need to apologize! I did it prior to even seeing your post. I have a B6 S4 and my inner tie rod was OEM. Strange!

[S4orgy]

I was able to get it out after about 6 hours of drilling, hammering, cutting and PB blaster. What a pain in the ass, I'm never doing that again. If my passenger side CV goes out I'll gladly pay whatever it takes for someone else to do it.

Next step is to replace my tie rods, which are both shot (inner/outer). Does anyone know what size the ball joint/bolt is on the inner tie rod? I called my local autozone and they have an inner tie rod removal tool for rent, but the guy said it's meant for trucks and probably wouldn't fit mine.

Lol broke mine and just replaced the entire knuckle

[ballinb5]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ontrol-arms-EZ

[tmh88]

I just got my wheel bearing replaced and that was the source of the loud road noise. No more vibrations from the bad CV and no more loud road noise!