Revisiting oil changes

[Spike00513]

Sorry to bug you

How do you change oil on 1.8T?

Here is how I do it on my 3L, but IDK if the same procedure applies.
On other cars, the dealership sells me crush washers cheap or even free.
But for Audi they'd always have a whole plug and say that's the way it's done.
Why? The plug does not wear. It doesn't seal. It helps seal, with threads.
The crush washer is what seals. That's why it's called a crush washer. It crushes and is sacrificed. Some people re-use them. Some people even rub soap on it and heat it gently with a propane torch to swell it. The soap turns black when it's done.

I skipped that and went straight to MAP(P?) gas which is hotter, and no soap.
Let's just say it melted into a puddle before I even blinked.

So once I did go to dealer, and parts dept guy said "hold on, let me have a tech snip the washer off and put a new one, we've been having problems sealing with these lately".

I thought that was the whole point.
Why spend $3 on a whole plug which is what ETKA says to do (N 908 132 01), when you can just slap on a new washer for $0.10.
Cost savings add up over time.

You can buy crush washers anywhere. Dealerships. Online. Hardware stores.

I also heard aluminum is better than copper but IDK.

I actually bought a MetalNerd magnetic plug in hopes of reducing wear but maybe it was a waste of money, IDK. I mean yes, it DOES come out with metal shavings, but don't we have good Mann filters with magnets inside anyway?
You can see it when I wipe it with a towel and clean with brake cleaner.


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The reason the stock crush washer doesn't just come off is because the tolerance fit is tight. It has to be cut off. Dremel, bolt cutters, wire cutter, take your pick.
I might've even bent mine to yield/give but I forget.
(sorta like how when u bend a paper clip too many times, it breaks)

Which is why my aftermarket washers slide on. They're JUST oversized enough to slide on. So when I finish threading in the plug by hand (into the oil pan), I make sure the washer is lined up all around before I do the final tighten.
So do I order a pack of those?
IDK what size/dimensions.

Sorry for the blabbing I just wanna go in knowing what I'm doing and make this quick n easy... figured I'd ask the experts (you)

Other than that I guess I'll be doing the usual, pre-fill the filter, Mann 940/25 + Motul 8100, cut-open 1gal Milk Jug to catch filter oil drips
Lube the filter seal with my finger. Wipe up the cooler face. Tighten the filter with sandpaper.

This worked great for my 3L Mann 930/21 filter removal.
I think I had a stuck filter once, dunno which car it was.
Poked a big flathead screwdriver through it with a hammer, so I could turn it/break it loose.


Wonder if any pans need re-gasketing. Maybe drop it to inspect pickup tube mesh screen. The VCG stinks.
I will search...

[5ktq]

Is copper harder or softer than the aluminum pan? I always used copper on steel pans. These new cars seem to have Al washers on the plugs, presumably a softer variant than the pans casting.

I usually use a nylon strap wrench (piece of seatbelt webbing tied to 1/2" sq tubing). Bit screwy to remember what way to wind it to get it on but works alright.

Though the big Mann filters on these have a screwdriver boss in the bottom? Shouldn't need it on 1.8t, anyway.

[daught]

Tighten with sandpaper? The Mann filters have clear instructions no need to over tighten. They will come off by hand if properly tightened.

Right now I have the OEM bolt, but if it ever leaks I am going to replace it with nylon. Nylon seals very well without needing much torque to seal.

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[EuroxS4]

Copper washer on a aluminum pan is a accident waiting to happen.Copper is harder than aluminum.Majority of the ones I ran into the washer didnt do its job and oil was seeping around the edges.I suggest reusing the oem drain plug as long a the threads are in good condition and its torqued to the correct spec.As the factory drain plugs are made of steel and had steel washers on them that cannot be removed unless cut with some very strong snips.Torque to 30nm and have a nice day!

[jacobsen]

Magnetic plug ftw, hand tighten filter, any crush washer will do.

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[Spike00513]

Tighten with sandpaper? The Mann filters have clear instructions no need to over tighten. They will come off by hand if properly tightened.

Right now I have the OEM bolt, but if it ever leaks I am going to replace it with nylon. Nylon seals very well without needing much torque to seal.

IDK. Seemed a little loose by hand and slippery, so I wiped it and used a light strip of sandpaper just to get a little better hand grip, maybe a few more degrees. I wanna say you can feel it on the seal.
But I guess I'll try your advice and stop.

Copper washer on a aluminum pan is a accident waiting to happen.Copper is harder than aluminum.Majority of the ones I ran into the washer didnt do its job and oil was seeping around the edges.I suggest reusing the oem drain plug as long a the threads are in good condition and its torqued to the correct spec.As the factory drain plugs are made of steel and had steel washers on them that cannot be removed unless cut with some very strong snips.Torque to 30nm and have a nice day!

Interesting, I wasn't sure if it was the other way around (copper v. alu).
I think other make cars use copper. I try to be careful using hand-torque "magical feel" aka "the touch" "just enough" while closely staring at the copper washer to see it compress. I guess you're saying that's not enough to make up for a too-hard washer.
Wonder why ECS and MetalNerd magnetic plug kits both come with copper.

I've also put a little bit of oil on the washer before install, dunno if that's right.
IDK if the whole pan is the same alu, or if the sealing flange is a harder insert.

Then why do I hear there's an OEM N0138492

14x20x1.5mm

Guess I'll go with that, seems ECS says it fits all Audi.

[EuroxS4]

Yes there was some copper washers but those were for older cars B5 and below.The size of the drain plug hasn't really changed.B5 cars had all the same size hardware.IIRC B5 1.8T used a copper washer.The AEB engine had a giant drain plug with a large thick copper washer.Just because it's sold by audi doesn't mean it's the correct washer.Ive seen many people strip their pan when you used a copper washer.Couldnt get it to seal properly over torqued the drain plug and stripped aluminum pan.

The aluminum pans are fragile there is no extra webbing or reinforcement around the drain plug area.

I can tell you why they come with copper washers.They are cheaper!!So a .99 cent washer compared to $1.50.Yeah I know not a big difference but multiply that times 1000 or more when buying in bulk and there's a significant difference there.

Guess what this one fits them all too.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...sher/ES466262/

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