Engine vibration after jacking car up for brake job and not bleeding brakes

[t64030]

Now when you think engine and the whole car vibration you think the dual mass flywheel has failed. Well, as I'm considering that, I'm wanting to see if something else went wrong. So I jacked the car up to change my rear pads, ended up accidentally leaving the bleeder screw a little open and has brake fluid all over the ground. Got that all taken care of with the brakes, but also noticed I had a major vibration in the cabin. I assumed that something was hitting something under the car making it vibrate, as it's done because when jacking it up on one end. So I got under the car and all seemed well, nothing hitting anything that shouldn't be. Then upon looking at the motor while running I noticed it was also vibrating, so naturally I assume the dual mass flywheel has failed/come apart in some way, as it is very hard to shift, BUT the clutch feels about the same which isn't say much because the previous owner didn't bleed the slave cylinder very well, and it always felt weird. Now I know I made a few mistakes. Could not bleeding the brakes properly cause this issue? Would bleeding the breaks and the clutch properly possibly fix this? Or is it for sure the dual mass flywheel. I had an A4 before this one where the dual mass flywheel failed and it's showing about the same symptoms. If it is the dual mass flywheel, which I don't want to pull the tranny off to find out, I'm going to sell it. I've already got a lot of offers for it, but I'd rather keep it.


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[f0reignfeatures]

Why would a rear brake job cause your transmission/flywheel to fail?


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[hightime80]

Amen😷

[Spike00513]

If I cant sell my 3L I'll part-out. Maybe I can sell you my low-mi clutch kit
Otherwise it was $400 on RockAuto, including $200 LuK DMF049.

I hear DMF goes out at 100-300k. Sjorge replaced his.

I put anti-sieze on my brake bleeder screw threads, and line threads.
So that they come apart easier in the future, and to try and keep the outside out, and inside (fluid) in, which otherwise tries to leak/creep out the sides when I bleed it.

IDK who bought A4QuattroV6's kit when he parted. Maybe imnuts. I think it was RS4 JHM or something.
Slave is hydraulic. It's best to be bled. Pentosin DOT4 prolly. I've got Fuchs gear oil, not Motul Gear300. In an 02X. Not an 01E, which I hear is like a truck.

IDK if engagement habits matter. Or whether or not you rev-match downshift applying opposite rotational force into the dampening system.

Rear pads do 10% of the braking. To keep the boat level under braking they turned it up a notch though.
Otherwise, your heavy momentum is going forward. And you've got engine in the front.


What kind of vibration? On another car I had wheel bearings go bad. Factory said take em apart, clean, put fresh new grease, and re-assemble. Fronts are lighter-duty than the rear. Everything else is replaced (motor mounts, etc.) so there's nothing else it could really be. Jacked up the car and wobbled the wheels by hand. Rears were solid. Fronts have play.
And its high miles/age so it's typical.
Especially worse if PO hits curbs.

Not bleeding brakes would make pedal soft/spongy and go straight to the floor easily, and the car would be dangerous, it would fail to stop.

OK so let's say you sell it. For what. $3k? Then what. Buy a Civic for $3k? Well that Civic also has 100k+ and needs a clutch now too.
And it's gonna cost just as much. Accord V6 LuK DMF is same price.
OK I'm exaggerating.

My 3L clutch was big and heavy.
So I was surprised when I saw somebody change a mitsubishi clutch. It was so tiny.

I'm not saying do this or do that. Just trying to provide you with info, so you can use your judgement to decide what YOU want.
I think MNAudi using his sale price for down payment on an 8V S3.

I hear on automatic cars, people recommend ATF kit every 30-40k min. That's $200-$300 right there.
I'm not dogging automatics. I hear the new ZF 8spd is good. And ZF6AT. And 722.6. And that 5HP19FLA is good so long as pump bushing doesn't loosen.
Especially in traffic? Does that wear out clutches on manual? Some people live in LA where it's 4-hour standstill rushour.

This is what my footwell looks like...


Oh what's that? The light turned green? Alright. Time to do this again.

[t64030]

Why would a rear brake job cause your transmission/flywheel to fail?


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That's my point, it wouldn't. Why I'm asking if it's a coincidence or something else.


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[t64030]

If I cant sell my 3L I'll part-out. Maybe I can sell you my low-mi clutch kit
Otherwise it was $400 on RockAuto, including $200 LuK DMF049.

I hear DMF goes out at 100-300k. Sjorge replaced his.

I put anti-sieze on my brake bleeder screw threads, and line threads.
So that they come apart easier in the future, and to try and keep the outside out, and inside (fluid) in, which otherwise tries to leak/creep out the sides when I bleed it.

IDK who bought A4QuattroV6's kit when he parted. Maybe imnuts. I think it was RS4 JHM or something.
Slave is hydraulic. It's best to be bled. Pentosin DOT4 prolly. I've got Fuchs gear oil, not Motul Gear300. In an 02X. Not an 01E, which I hear is like a truck.

IDK if engagement habits matter. Or whether or not you rev-match downshift applying opposite rotational force into the dampening system.

Rear pads do 10% of the braking. To keep the boat level under braking they turned it up a notch though.
Otherwise, your heavy momentum is going forward. And you've got engine in the front.


What kind of vibration? On another car I had wheel bearings go bad. Factory said take em apart, clean, put fresh new grease, and re-assemble. Fronts are lighter-duty than the rear. Everything else is replaced (motor mounts, etc.) so there's nothing else it could really be. Jacked up the car and wobbled the wheels by hand. Rears were solid. Fronts have play.
And its high miles/age so it's typical.
Especially worse if PO hits curbs.

Not bleeding brakes would make pedal soft/spongy and go straight to the floor easily, and the car would be dangerous, it would fail to stop.

OK so let's say you sell it. For what. $3k? Then what. Buy a Civic for $3k? Well that Civic also has 100k+ and needs a clutch now too.
And it's gonna cost just as much. Accord V6 LuK DMF is same price.
OK I'm exaggerating.

My 3L clutch was big and heavy.
So I was surprised when I saw somebody change a mitsubishi clutch. It was so tiny.

I'm not saying do this or do that. Just trying to provide you with info, so you can use your judgement to decide what YOU want.
I think MNAudi using his sale price for down payment on an 8V S3.

I hear on automatic cars, people recommend ATF kit every 30-40k min. That's $200-$300 right there.
I'm not dogging automatics. I hear the new ZF 8spd is good. And ZF6AT. And 722.6. And that 5HP19FLA is good so long as pump bushing doesn't loosen.
Especially in traffic? Does that wear out clutches on manual? Some people live in LA where it's 4-hour standstill rushour.

This is what my footwell looks like...


Oh what's that? The light turned green? Alright. Time to do this again.

You typed a lot lol. But it vibrates with the engine rpm. It's the 3.0 avk motor. Just odd to me that it would have failed all of a sudden. Started it up and I could feel the vibration. Maybe bad engine mount? Idk. The engine vibrates more than usual too.


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[f0reignfeatures]

That's my point, it wouldn't. Why I'm asking if it's a coincidence or something else.


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I really don't see how it would. If you put the jack stands in the wrong place or dropped the car inappropriately maybe something could be damaged, causing vibration, but that wouldn't cause immediate transmission failure.


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[t64030]

I really don't see how it would. If you put the jack stands in the wrong place or dropped the car inappropriately maybe something could be damaged, causing vibration, but that wouldn't cause immediate transmission failure.


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Yeah, although I'm very careful about my jack and jack stand placement, that's possible. I just don't have any idea what it could be.


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