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Thread: DIY Brake job?

  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    DIY Brake job?

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    I have new f+r rotors and pads for the RS4. Never done a rotor/ pad change before (I know, I know). I'm pretty handy, but is there a DIY?
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  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings slineb7's Avatar
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    Interested in the response also.


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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by zachf88 View Post
    I have new f+r rotors and pads for the RS4. Never done a rotor/ pad change before (I know, I know). I'm pretty handy, but is there a DIY?
    First time for everything haha. Make sure you have a tool to depress the caliper piston or a pair of pliers that are big enough (use a rag or something to protect brake caliper paint). Make sure all bolts that were removed are nice and tightly secured when installing. Some people recommend adding a little locktite (blue or red) to the caliper bracket bolts. Lubricate slide bolts with grease too to prevent uneven wear of brake pads. Everything else should be straight forward of RnR.
    Do you plan to bleed brake lines too while your down there?

    I haven't done the rear brakes on mine yet (hardly driven) but if its the caliper style where you need to spin the piston in it'll require a special tool or a pair of needle nose pliers to do so. Its a PITA to wind those things in

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings MattboyR32's Avatar
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    Front pads are super easy. Pull out the two pins (use a punch and hammer) use something to push/pull the pads away from the rotor. disconnect abs sensor (twist and unhook). slide pads out. Make sure you push the pads out as far as you can as the new pads will need the extra space to slide in.

    front rotors requires you to loosen the caliper bracket bolts you don't need to remove them entirely. Just enough space to pull the rotor out (also helps to not have the pads in when doing this. search for correct torque rating for when reinstalling.

    Rears pads require a special tool to rotate the piston back into its slot. Be careful as you do this to not have the dust boot rip/tear. I use a little wd40 to allow the rubber dust boot to move more freely as I'm rotating the piston back in. I got the special tool one on amazon for less than $50. You also need a thin adjustable wrench. the normal adjustable wrenchs won't allow you to loosen the two 13mm bolts. I remove the top bolt and loosen the lower bolt. remember to release park brake also.

    Rear rotors, with a bit of finesse you don't need to remove caliper.

    All up takes me about 30mins to do front and rear pads. And I am by no means a mechanic! rear rotors about 15mins. front rotors a bit longer...

    Also remember to loosen the brake reservoir cap as fluid might force it's way out when you are pushing the pistons back in.


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  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Very easy to do. Only problem I ran into where the the center screw that holds the rotor was seized on 2.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings particulardude's Avatar
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple_king View Post
    Very easy to do. Only problem I ran into where the the center screw that holds the rotor was seized on 2.
    Agreed! Purchase a set of 4 screws ahead of time and get your SpeedOut ready.
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  9. #9
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple_king View Post
    Very easy to do. Only problem I ran into where the the center screw that holds the rotor was seized on 2.
    Ditto. Seems fairly common on these.

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