2.0T FSI Oil Pressure Light

[edhogan1224]

There's plenty of threads regarding oil pressure issues in the 2.0T engines in the B7 A4's, but i couldn't really find one that seemed appropriate for my issue. SO the problem I'm having is that my oil pressure light (red oil can in the middle of the cluster display) is coming on intermittently, complete with the annoying three beeps. At first i thought it was only on acceleration or deceleration, then i thought it was only at a certain rpm, then i thought it was only in a certain gear (not sure what that'd have anything to do with it?) but there literally seems to be no consistency or pattern of the light. Sometimes it stays on for a minute or two, sometimes its only on for a matter of seconds, sometimes the lights are immediately after one another, sometimes its several minutes until the light comes back on.. Any MPH, any RPM. The only things I've noticed is that it hasn't occurred at idle, or when i rev in neutral sitting still. Fingers crossed that maybe its a haywire sensor or something as simple as changing the oil, but to those of you who have been elbow deep in these engines before, does this sound like it could be the oil pump? The car has 190XXX miles on it.

[Denio24]

I would take it to a shop so they could have a mechanical gauge hooked up to the oil filter housing, then cycle the RPM range.

[edhogan1224]

I would take it to a shop so they could have a mechanical gauge hooked up to the oil filter housing, then cycle the RPM range.

That's going to happen this coming Friday-Saturday.

To add to this issue, there's a buzzing sound that's fairly loud, but only on a cold start and only for a minute. The furthest I've been able to trace it is to the oil cooler (I can "feel" the noise when i grab it) on the drivers side of the engine block. In addition to this, there is also a whooshing sound at all temps that increases as the RPM's increases, almost like you can hear the turbo. Its not loud enough to hear going down the road but I can hear it when I'm stopped. When i first got it you couldn't hear the turbo at all.

If it helps at all, the sticker on the front timing cover says that this is a BPG motor, the car is a Tiptronic Quattro.

[Denio24]

I would stop driving the car at all costs, unless an emergency, and have the car towed to the mechanic. Car might drive now, but damage may be being caused right now reducing the life of all the mechanical components.

[esandes]

yes it could very well mean the oil pump is going. i had the light come on right after my oil pump failed. i'd replace the pump.

[Charles.waite]

The Pressure warning is deactivated under 1200RPMS I think so it will never trigger at idle I believe.

Dumb question, but have you checked the oil level?

[Cobra351]

yes it could very well mean the oil pump is going. i had the light come on right after my oil pump failed. i'd replace the pump.

That's like saying if you have a cough, you should assume that you have cancer.

The problem needs to be diagnosed properly, first. It could be a number of things. Clogged oil filter, clogged oil pump screen, crack in the oil filter housing, crack in the valve cover, low amount of oil, etc.

[Charles.waite]

That's like saying if you have a cough, you should assume that you have cancer.

The problem needs to be diagnosed properly, first. It could be a number of things. Clogged oil filter, clogged oil pump screen, crack in the oil filter housing, crack in the valve cover, low amount of oil, etc.

Ignore esandes, hes just a troll.

[Denio24]

That's like saying if you have a cough, you should assume that you have cancer.

The problem needs to be diagnosed properly, first. It could be a number of things. Clogged oil filter, clogged oil pump screen, crack in the oil filter housing, crack in the valve cover, low amount of oil, etc.

I highly doubt that OP's mechanic is following this thread, so that may prevent him from blindly replacing the oil pump. Either way, I hope said mechanic properly diagnoses this issue. Either way, I am very curious as to what the outcome of this pressure issue is. @edhogan please follow up.

[edhogan1224]

I would stop driving the car at all costs, unless an emergency, and have the car towed to the mechanic. Car might drive now, but damage may be being caused right now reducing the life of all the mechanical components.

I'm aware of the potential damage that can be caused, but aside from the buzzing, whooshing, and the erratic op light, the car is running perfectly, no loss of power no knock/tap/clattering noises typical of an oil starved engine. If it truly is an oil pump the engine is going to need to be rebuilt either way

Dumb question, but have you checked the oil level?

Checked, oil level is perfect

[edhogan1224]

I highly doubt that OP's mechanic is following this thread, so that may prevent him from blindly replacing the oil pump. Either way, I hope said mechanic properly diagnoses this issue. Either way, I am very curious as to what the outcome of this pressure issue is. @edhogan please follow up.

I plan on keeping this updated to help out others, as I don't really post on forums unless I can't find anything elsewhere.

[Cobra351]

Good to hear that he's at least doing research. I just feel we need to speak out when incorrect info is being spread. I think too often I've seen here that people immediately jump to oil pump when there's oil pressure warnings. I just needed to be reminded how it exactly works, if anyone is curious. General oil pump info:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw

[edhogan1224]

The Pressure warning is deactivated under 1200RPMS I think so it will never trigger at idle I believe.

So it appears that while the sensor will not trigger before 1200 RPMs, it will stay on below 1200 RPMs. Also seems like the warning will not go away unless you are at or above 1800 RPMs.

Going to check how much oil I have tonight, see if I can do an oil and filter change, maybe that will help.

[esandes]

That's like saying if you have a cough, you should assume that you have cancer.

The problem needs to be diagnosed properly, first. It could be a number of things. Clogged oil filter, clogged oil pump screen, crack in the oil filter housing, crack in the valve cover, low amount of oil, etc.

this is a very serious issue and the OP is playing with fire. by the time the mechanic troubleshoots ($$) everything-if he even does, it would cost a little more to just replace the pump.

[edhogan1224]

this is a very serious issue and the OP is playing with fire. by the time the mechanic troubleshoots ($$) everything-if he even does, it would cost a little more to just replace the pump.

I'm jealous, everyone seems to have their own mechanic...all I have is myself
As stated before, I am aware of the potential risks. The reason I made this post is because everyone says "blah blah dont drive it take it to your mechanic." That gives zero information to anyone researching this topic. I'm not short on resources or mechanical experience so I'll push my luck a little further in order to gain some real information. I obviously don't want the motor to pop, but at 190k miles I won't be upset about it. If it blows ill finally have an excuse to get my 240sx back on the road.

[esandes]

I'm jealous, everyone seems to have their own mechanic...all I have is myself
As stated before, I am aware of the potential risks. The reason I made this post is because everyone says "blah blah dont drive it take it to your mechanic." That gives zero information to anyone researching this topic. I'm not short on resources or mechanical experience so I'll push my luck a little further in order to gain some real information. I obviously don't want the motor to pop, but at 190k miles I won't be upset about it. If it blows ill finally have an excuse to get my 240sx back on the road.

let us know how it goes. a lot of people had their pumps die around 100k miles, myself included. everyone wants to find a cheap fix but this is most likely a pump issue. last i checked they were around $1000. my new block cost me 6 times that.

[vce1232000]

Ignore esandes, hes just a troll.

..........

[edhogan1224]

let us know how it goes. a lot of people had their pumps die around 100k miles, myself included. everyone wants to find a cheap fix but this is most likely a pump issue. last i checked they were around $1000. my new block cost me 6 times that.

I'm not sure if this one has been replaced or not. If it typically has a 100k lifespan I'm definitely on borrowed time. And from ECS they're roughly $1200, you can find them used on eBay for around $500, and the 1.8T pump conversion kit is about $499 + $250 (new from ECS) filter housing so there is no real cheap option. Have to go down the list and see where I end up i guess.

Wasn't able to do the oil change last night, couldn't get ahold of a filter. Shooting for tonight. This will eliminate the possibility of a collapsed oil filter as well as give me a chance to inspect the housing for any cracks or leaks.

SIDENOTE: The buzzing noise i described in post #3 seems to have stopped. Not sure if this is a good or bad sign.

[yeoj112689]

I'm not sure if this one has been replaced or not. If it typically has a 100k lifespan I'm definitely on borrowed time. And from ECS they're roughly $1200, you can find them used on eBay for around $500, and the 1.8T pump conversion kit is about $499 + $250 (new from ECS) filter housing so there is no real cheap option. Have to go down the list and see where I end up i guess.

Wasn't able to do the oil change last night, couldn't get ahold of a filter. Shooting for tonight. This will eliminate the possibility of a collapsed oil filter as well as give me a chance to inspect the housing for any cracks or leaks.

SIDENOTE: The buzzing noise i described in post #3 seems to have stopped. Not sure if this is a good or bad sign.

I have a pump you can have for free + shipping but I honestly have no idea if is it any good. I did the 1.8t conversion because I had the same problem as you. I just swapped it out because I already had plans on pulling the engine and I did not want to take any risks. The pump looks okay visually but I do not know much longer it would have ran if I kept it in. Either way its just taking up space in my garage. Use at your own risk etc.

I would be weary of keeping the pump in there running though as said if it is in fact failing then it can be very bad. 1.8T conversion isn't that hard either and I liked the oil filter better :D

[edhogan1224]

If you've got an idea how much shipping would be, i might take you up on that. Do you know how much it weighs, and if it would fit in a Flat-Rate shipping box?

[canadianA4B7]

1.8T conversion without changing the filter housing is a good option too. Some have had issues with the housing conversion and low pressure. Some have had issues with low pressure at high rpms, the high rpm parts an easier fix. The low rpm low pressure has resulted in part outs (mitchbartko) most recent.

I also have a perfect condition balance shaft assembly in classifieds. But I cannot give it up for free. I have wiggle room and had the unit looked over by a builder and they advised to not change it out.

[edhogan1224]

1.8T conversion without changing the filter housing is a good option too. Some have had issues with the housing conversion and low pressure. Some have had issues with low pressure at high rpms, the high rpm parts an easier fix. The low rpm low pressure has resulted in part outs (mitchbartko) most recent.

The oil pressure issues is what has me iffy about the 1.8 pump conversion. Can't seem to find a definite answer as to why it happens or how to fix it. Everyone seems to have different results.

[Okedokey]

Oil pressure could simply be a sign of a worn out engine at that mileage.

[canadianA4B7]

Oil pressure could simply be a sign of a worn out engine at that mileage.

This cud be the truth. Throw mechanical oil pressure gauge on it and see where it's truely at. You might just have a bunch of well worn parts under the hood causing the pressure issue.

1.8T conversion can be done for insanely cheap. It's a $40.00 pump, $40 gear, $35 chain, and tensioner from dealer was $23, oh the plastic windage tray (unknown price) Helicoil kit from local shop and done. that's your $500 kit for cheap. If I'm missing something someone correct me. But i sold a kit recently with all the major parts for like $100.

[impulse]

im having literally the EXACT SAME problem as you!!!

my story is my car ran great, no issues. i changed the oil, drove it maybe 2-300 miles, dropped it off to the body shop, picked it up and had this issue. when i did my change i dumped 5 quarts in like i usually do. never had this issue before. always dumped all 5 quarts of oil in. i've noticed my light only comes on when i'm in gear (any gear) and i start decelerating, off an exit for example, and leave it in a high gear while the rpm's get below 2000. the light then turns on, but shuts off as soon as i give it some gas.

any thoughts compared to what you're experiencing?

EDIT: 2006 2.0t 115k miles

[Okedokey]

im having literally the EXACT SAME problem as you!!!

my story is my car ran great, no issues. i changed the oil, drove it maybe 2-300 miles, dropped it off to the body shop, picked it up and had this issue. when i did my change i dumped 5 quarts in like i usually do. never had this issue before. always dumped all 5 quarts of oil in. i've noticed my light only comes on when i'm in gear (any gear) and i start decelerating, off an exit for example, and leave it in a high gear while the rpm's get below 2000. the light then turns on, but shuts off as soon as i give it some gas.

any thoughts compared to what you're experiencing?

EDIT: 2006 2.0t 115k miles

That sounds like a pump or sensor.

[impulse]

That sounds like a pump or sensor.

Car doesn't sputter, temperature doesn't change, no weird noises, although I have to say I think my exhaust sounds more high pitches than it used to... not 100% confirmed though


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[Okedokey]

Car doesn't sputter, temperature doesn't change, no weird noises, although I have to say I think my exhaust sounds more high pitches than it used to... not 100% confirmed though


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Oil pressure is related to rpm, so if the pump is on its way out and goes out of spec at lower rpms, thats what I am thinking. Could also be a sensor too I guess. Doesn't sound like internal wear is my point I guess?

[impulse]

Oil pressure is related to rpm, so if the pump is on its way out and goes out of spec at lower rpms, thats what I am thinking. Could also be a sensor too I guess. Doesn't sound like internal wear is my point I guess?

From what I can tell, no. It doesn't sound like the engine is starving. I just drove the car on a 6-700 mile trip with this issue (first class fitment, I was ready to blow the engine up if it meant my car made it there lol)


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[Okedokey]

Pressure and volume are different my friend. Starvation may not be apparent if the volume is sufficient but pressure not.

[impulse]

Pressure and volume are different my friend. Starvation may not be apparent if the volume is sufficient but pressure not.

I wish I knew more about motors in general. I guess I'm a "google mechanic". Hopefully my issue isn't anything serious. I was thinking about getting an oil pressure gauge

[edhogan1224]

im having literally the EXACT SAME problem as you!!!

my story is my car ran great, no issues. i changed the oil, drove it maybe 2-300 miles, dropped it off to the body shop, picked it up and had this issue. when i did my change i dumped 5 quarts in like i usually do. never had this issue before. always dumped all 5 quarts of oil in. i've noticed my light only comes on when i'm in gear (any gear) and i start decelerating, off an exit for example, and leave it in a high gear while the rpm's get below 2000. the light then turns on, but shuts off as soon as i give it some gas.

any thoughts compared to what you're experiencing?

EDIT: 2006 2.0t 115k miles

In my experience, consistent repeatable faults are usually of a mechanical nature. Sensor issues are usually pretty erratic.

[impulse]

In my experience, consistent repeatable faults are usually of a mechanical nature. Sensor issues are usually pretty erratic.

So it's probably my oil pump huh... good thing I'm buying a beater


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[edhogan1224]

So it's probably my oil pump huh... good thing I'm buying a beater


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Pump or worn bearings. Only real way to tell would be to use a mechanical gauge

[edhogan1224]

UPDATE: Did the oil change, oil was nice and sparkly...oh well. And there was no change in the Oil Pressure light. Used a Mann filter and Rotella T6 like I usually do.
So...now that I know the motor is on her way out, going to continue my way down the list, short of a new pump.

[edhogan1224]

I have a pump you can have for free + shipping but I honestly have no idea if is it any good.

Any word on that pump yet?

[esandes]

UPDATE: Did the oil change, oil was nice and sparkly...oh well. And there was no change in the Oil Pressure light. Used a Mann filter and Rotella T6 like I usually do.
So...now that I know the motor is on her way out, going to continue my way down the list, short of a new pump.

put that in your pipe and smoke it charles.waite. you're just another self righteous DBAG on my ignore list.

[aluthman]

So it's probably my oil pump huh... good thing I'm buying a beater


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I've got both a complete motor and a good used pump if you need either.

[Charles.waite]

put that in your pipe and smoke it charles.waite. you're just another self righteous DBAG on my ignore list.

Perfect.

[impulse]

I've got both a complete motor and a good used pump if you need either.

I think my problem is something as simple as I have too much oil in the car. It's reading high on the dip stick. If my motor is blown a 2.0t won't be going back in, I'd part my 2.0t build and swap in a 2.7t


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