Headlight connectors (where can i get some?)

[Furly]

Previous owner of my car made a mess of the headlight wiring and city lights on the e-codes. I need to cut these harnesses off and crimp new ones on. Anyone know where i can get some replacements? The pick N pull / junkyards around my area dont have any B6's only B5's so im stuck with having to order online.

Pics so you can see how shitty these are:



And the city lights wiring where the big white ceramic resistor fell off while driving

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I dont see a problem. That mess will pretty much buff out.

[Furly]

I dont see a problem. That mess will pretty much buff out.

My headlights dont work and its raining. I need da light! Jus gimme da light.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Im gonna stay true to my word and get you a pair of connectors before anyone else does. Shit has just been hectic with the new kiddo around.

[Furly]

No worries man i know how that is. I'd even fix these temporarily just to have functioning lights but as you can see in the pics, they are le trash can material.

[Noma12vA4]

too many windows open dmnit

[5ktq]

I saw the connectors + crimp terminals cheaaaap on aliexpress the other day.

Mouser or the dealer if you want it faster.

hmm mouser only has stock of the 14 pin (xenon) ones it looks like.


VW PN is 1J0973735

punch that into ebay or aliexpress, can get with pigtail or with crimp terminals.

[Furly]

too many windows open dmnit

There he is!

- - - Updated - - -

I saw the connectors + crimp terminals cheaaaap on aliexpress the other day.

Mouser or the dealer if you want it faster.

hmm mouser only has stock of the 14 pin (xenon) ones it looks like.


VW PN is 1J0973735

punch that into ebay or aliexpress, can get with pigtail or with crimp terminals.

Are the xenon and halogen the same connector? I have HID D1S bulbs in the ecodes.

[5ktq]

Oh i misspoke I guess. looks like halogen and single xenon both use the 10 pin i linked - bixenon uses the 14. maybe that's just B7s or something.

at least that's what it looks like from a quick look around. and you do have a 10 pin in your picture..?

[Charles.waite]

There he is!

- - - Updated - - -



Are the xenon and halogen the same connector? I have HID D1S bulbs in the ecodes.

Pretty sure the Halogen and Xenon connectors are the same. Check here: https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4...al/Connectors/
Maybe that 14-pin connector matches up?

Edit: This guy??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty1-Xenon-h...-/291636419293

[Charles.waite]

Or shoot, maybe its 10-pin like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Connecto...-/262217816528

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Hey CP, I think its more like this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIONEER-10-P...FXwmyNa3Ea3gFw

[Spike00513]

I've used NSPA Krimpa-Seal. I don't remember which gauge, if it was the smallest white/clear or next-size-up red. IDK if there's anything smaller. Maybe McMaster-Carr.
They're basically just a higher-quality version of the crimp connectors you'll find at Harbor Freight, but the smallest they go down to is pink, not white.
NSPA has wall in the middle, thinner barrel (easier to crimp with $7-$9 HFT crimp pliers), softer adhesive-lined insulation.


There's two headlight connector housing PN's. One is a revised newer-model (such as coming on A5) with a different locking tab mechanism.

I've used Corteco or Tesa tape on other harnesses before, probably 51608, wrapped atop 3M Super 33. IIRC nefkntym did his engine bay harness in RayChem DR-25 from ProWireUSA.
Liquid Electrical Tape when heat-shrink tubing breaks.
Some hardware stores carry a selection of sheathing.

VW repair wire from Audi dealer is expensive. It's one yellow wire and the ends are pinned.
OE connector de-pin tool is $60 but you can file down a paper clip.

Don't forget to label on a piece of paper a map of how the wires were in it, before disassembly.

[Furly]

I've used NSPA Krimpa-Seal. I don't remember which gauge, if it was the smallest white/clear or next-size-up red. IDK if there's anything smaller. Maybe McMaster-Carr.
They're basically just a higher-quality version of the crimp connectors you'll find at Harbor Freight, but the smallest they go down to is pink, not white.
NSPA has wall in the middle, thinner barrel (easier to crimp with $7-$9 HFT crimp pliers), softer adhesive-lined insulation.


There's two headlight connector housing PN's. One is a revised newer-model (such as coming on A5) with a different locking tab mechanism.

I've used Corteco or Tesa tape on other harnesses before, probably 51608, wrapped atop 3M Super 33. IIRC nefkntym did his engine bay harness in RayChem DR-25 from ProWireUSA.
Liquid Electrical Tape when heat-shrink tubing breaks.
Some hardware stores carry a selection of sheathing.

VW repair wire from Audi dealer is expensive. It's one yellow wire and the ends are pinned.
OE connector de-pin tool is $60 but you can file down a paper clip.

Don't forget to label on a piece of paper a map of how the wires were in it, before disassembly.

A different locking tab would be great. I hate those as much as the previous owner did, he tore them up with something lol.

Do the new ones plug and play?

[5ktq]

the connector in your first pic is definitely 1J0973735

looks 6R0 973 735 is the newer latching tab (just looks bigger and probably easier to break) someone mentioned.


I'll give everyone a tip on these connectors.
1. Push connector TOGETHER as much as possible
2. push down tab slightly
3. pull back on housing, woohoo

Most people don't do step one and have a hard time with them is my theory. They're still a pain when you cant get your thumb on the tab very well cause it happens to be in a weird position. Use screwdriver on the tab then very gentle, just enough to raise the latch.

[Spike00513]

D1S Xenon should be 10-pin

A different locking tab would be great. I hate those as much as the previous owner did, he tore them up with something lol.

Do the new ones plug and play?

The new ones didn't mate well so I got a set of new OE 1J0973735 maybe $5/ea online somewhere, eBay, aliexpress, etc.

the connector in your first pic is definitely 1J0973735

looks 6R0 973 735 is the newer latching tab (just looks bigger and probably easier to break) someone mentioned.


I'll give everyone a tip on these connectors.
1. Push connector TOGETHER as much as possible
2. push down tab slightly
3. pull back on housing, woohoo

Most people don't do step one and have a hard time with them is my theory. They're still a pain when you cant get your thumb on the tab very well cause it happens to be in a weird position. Use screwdriver on the tab then very gentle, just enough to raise the latch.

x2

The connector must be pushed together to start get it moving and relieve tension on the lock.
I use an old filed-down flathead stubby screwdriver, large-blade, that fits well into the tab.

I heard that whenever I get a chance/access to electrical parts such as connectors, to consider using electric parts cleaner spray or even pin terminal sanding file tool kit, to freshen up the metal pins, then protectant such as dielectric grease (grease attracts dirt and is messy) to prevent future corrosion on the newly-bare surface. Stabilant 22A and DeOxit were mentioned.

But so far I haven't looked into or done that, and the lights still turn on. I just plug it back in straight, smooth, and gentle, to mate the pins.
Unlike your PO, who seems to have gotten fed up and rage-quit, and shanked the connector 20 times.

The lock tab is just a supplement retainer. Technically you can still drive with it broken.
Technically I replaced my loose door cable with a coat hanger.

[eljay]

I did this repair a few weeks ago:



Here is everything you need:
Step-by-step DYI
Parts - note: OEM plastic feels better than this, but this one still works just fine.
Terminal removal tool (highly recommended - makes removal of the pins a breeze!)

[Osher67]

When I did these This is what I got. Much cleaner with little covers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/311675184271


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