Tsi to 1.8t oil pump + housing. Still Oil Pressure Warning

[J|M]

Hey guys.
I bought last october an audi a4 b7 2.0t. The car had a failed engine due to oil pressure problem. They did a 1.8t conversion oil pump, reassembled everything but it was still getting the oil pressure warning in the cluster. We recently did the 1.8t oil filter housing as well hoping it would fix the problem but it did not.

I know there is hundreds of thread relating to this subject but usually everyone get this fixed simply after the pump conversion. Anyone else experienced anything similar after doing the full conversion?

Could the problem be somewhere else?

[rongeur]

I have the 1.8T oil pump conversion and it currently runs barely below spec pressures once fully warm, but without triggering low oil pressure warning. I don't love it but have watched it very closely.

Places where oil pressure can be lost (in no specific ranking order and off the top of my head)
- Worn out of spec bearings (mains / crank)
- Clogged pick up tube
- Low oil levels
- Failed cam chain tensioner (rear of head)
- Failed check valves.
- Failed oil pressure sensor.

Before doing anything, I would recommend performing an oil pressure test with an actual mechanical diagnostic gauge off the back of the housing. I believe the 1.8t housing has an extra diagnostic port available. The 2.0t you have to remove the oil pressure sensor to check. Spec is like 1 bar at idle at 80c and like 35-37 at 2000rpm at 80c. I may be off some, but reference the bently to be sure. If the pressures are fine, then it is your sensor. If they are indeed low, start from easy to hard. Should be able to rule out oil level and clogged pickup since new pick up was used. You replaced the housing which has the check valves. Next up should be the rear cam timing tensioner which if broken, the piston is extruded and spewing extra oil pressure. If everything is fine there, may be more internal as the engine already had a major failure with lubrication and could have caused bearings to be wiped?

[yeoj112689]

I would check to make sure you do not have another issue because like stated above if you have low oil pressure it often indicates a problem. Now I know some people were having issues with their 1.8t conversion but most people also had problems prior to changing it that could have caused the problem even after the pump was placed.

If you have the ability I would do some looking internally before running the engine more because if there is an issue it could cause more catastrophic issues that will kill your engine.

Another thing to look as is getting a mechanical pressure gauge and hooking it up directly to your 1.8t filter housing (this is what I did with a custom tapped area on the filter housing (some come pre tapped apparently but the one I got from the junk yard did not))

When I was done with my conversion I had proper (if not slightly higher) oil pressure than stock numbers were suppose to so I know the conversion works. Just take caution because I would hate to see worse things happen. Better to be down for a week or so than forever.

[canadianA4B7]

I had to bump idle up from stock 740 rpm to my current 880/920 rpm. My idle was a tiny bit low prior to changing this setting in maestro. My idle pressure is now 15 psi

Mechanical gauge in my car still left it attached to the 1.8T filter housing. If it's possible find the smaller sized filter too. I run the larger mahale filter but I think MEC had found there a smaller filter which will raise pressure a bunch. I don't know part number of the smaller, will check the filter part number I'm using later today.

Bit more info please. At what rpm are you seeing this light come one??? does your car make an insane amount of noise from the back of the head when it's running?? What oil are you using?? Is the tensioner installer correctly for the chain to the pump?? If you want to purchase oem balance shafts I'm in Ontario and can ship you the oem assembly after a $$$ transaction perfect condition balance shaft setup.

[yeoj112689]

I had to bump idle up from stock 740 rpm to my current 880/920 rpm. My idle was a tiny bit low prior to changing this setting in maestro. My idle pressure is now 15 psi

Mechanical gauge in my car still left it attached to the 1.8T filter housing. If it's possible find the smaller sized filter too. I run the larger mahale filter but I think MEC had found there a smaller filter which will raise pressure a bunch. I don't know part number of the smaller, will check the filter part number I'm using later today.

Bit more info please. At what rpm are you seeing this light come one??? does your car make an insane amount of noise from the back of the head when it's running?? What oil are you using?? Is the tensioner installer correctly for the chain to the pump?? If you want to purchase oem balance shafts I'm in Ontario and can ship you the oem assembly after a $$$ transaction perfect condition balance shaft setup.

Yeah the new filter is pretty big compared to stock. I used it fine but I could see it making a difference due to its size and flow if the properties are different. Could be good or bad.

[Charles.waite]

Did they replace the oil pickup tube and flush the system out to try to remove any debris (like RTV)? Because if they replaced the pump but didn't do the pickup tube the shop should be ashamed...

[rongeur]

Did they replace the oil pickup tube and flush the system out to try to remove any debris (like RTV)? Because if they replaced the pump but didn't do the pickup tube the shop should be ashamed...

Impossible as the 2.0T pickup tube is note a compatible bolt pattern IIRC. Plus it won't fit the pan.

[Charles.waite]

Impossible as the 2.0T pickup tube is note a compatible bolt pattern IIRC. Plus it won't fit the pan.

Oh good point. Derp.

[rongeur]

Unfortunately, I think the OP should pull the motor and check everything with the sump off, great access to the rear timing chain, can pull the valve train girdle to check the surfaces. Maybe send to machine shop for complete flush and making sure everything internal is to spec. All this assuming the sensor is correct.

I am pulling my motor again this weekend just to get access to the pump and remove the oil pump shim the machinist made and replace the tensioner. I am hoping this will solve the chain chatter from the front of the engine.

[Charles.waite]

If it hasn't been done, before tearing into the engine, I would verify the actual pressure with a gauge. No point in tearing the waning apart looking for a problem that isn't there because the stupid sensor is throwing a false error because it's toasted.

[canadianA4B7]

If it hasn't been done, before tearing into the engine, I would verify the actual pressure with a gauge. No point in tearing the waning apart looking for a problem that isn't there because the stupid sensor is throwing a false error because it's toasted.

Highly agree with this. Mechanical gauges can be had for dirt cheap, the extra pieces you shud be able to find at a local hydraulics shop/instrumentation supplier. Mine stays under the hood, I've made a mount but have not installed it. More info is better then less/no info.

[rongeur]

I agree, rule out sensor first.

[csaby1973]

I had to bump idle up from stock 740 rpm to my current 880/920 rpm. My idle was a tiny bit low prior to changing this setting in maestro. My idle pressure is now 15 psi

Mechanical gauge in my car still left it attached to the 1.8T filter housing. If it's possible find the smaller sized filter too. I run the larger mahale filter but I think MEC had found there a smaller filter which will raise pressure a bunch. I don't know part number of the smaller, will check the filter part number I'm using later today.

Bit more info please. At what rpm are you seeing this light come one??? does your car make an insane amount of noise from the back of the head when it's running?? What oil are you using?? Is the tensioner installer correctly for the chain to the pump?? If you want to purchase oem balance shafts I'm in Ontario and can ship you the oem assembly after a $$$ transaction perfect condition balance shaft setup.

Hi,how did you managed to adjust idle to 920 rpm?I am interested too

[csaby1973]

Hi guys.I had the same problem.I had to modify the conversion kit.i puted the 2.0tfsi oil puley on the 1.8t oil pump,cut a few ring out of the chain to have the right misure and now i have 0,8bar oil pressure at warm engine.Still want to increase idle so at 920 rpm i would have 1,2 bar oil pressure.

[canadianA4B7]

custom tuning required. Maestro allowed me to jump the RPM far beyond what VCDS will (max 820/840).

Does your pressure raise correctly with increased RPM? Is your tensioner 100% correctly drilled/installed?

[vvenom800tt]

I thought a shim was needed to increase pressure?Screenshot_20190228-235747.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

[Brillo]

I thought a shim was needed to increase pressure?Screenshot_20190228-235747.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

I might be wrong vvenom but I think the only thing that shim does on the 1.8L oil pump is to increase the pressure at which the over-pressure valve opens and dumps oil back to the pan. This valve protects not only the pump but other parts of the engine from too high an oil pressure. This typically only comes into play at higher engine RPMs though, not at idle. I don't see how this is useful unless the 1.8L engine (and oil pump) was designed to run at a lower maximum oil pressure than the 2.0L - this I do not know. Perhaps others will chime in here. Brillo

[Brillo]

I also read in the older part of this thread about the use of a smaller oil filter to raise oil pressure. If I understand this correctly, this is a boneheaded move - seriously, you want to use a more restrictive filter, lower flow oil filter to increase oil pressure? This makes no sense because that would only increase the oil pressure between the oil pump and filter resulting in reduce oil flow to the rest of the engine where it's needed for lubrication and cooling. Am I missing something here??

[Charles.waite]

^^ That mentality is from people no understanding the relationship between pressure and flow and how they're related but independent variables.

[csaby1973]

custom tuning required. Maestro allowed me to jump the RPM far beyond what VCDS will (max 820/840).

Does your pressure raise correctly with increased RPM? Is your tensioner 100% correctly drilled/installed?

Hi.pressure rises well with riseing rpm.i tried with manny tunners to rise idle rpm but woth no chanse.do you know some good tunner to do it?

Inviato dal mio SM-G935F utilizzando Tapatalk

[oVeRdOsE]

stupid question, but on the balancer shaft delete, should shafts holes need to be capped to keep the pressure ?

[Brillo]

stupid question, but on the balancer shaft delete, should shafts holes need to be capped to keep the pressure ?

My understanding (never having done this) is that while there are kits to completely delete the balance shafts and plug the shaft bearing holes, the more common method is to leave the shafts in place but deactivate them by cutting out the drive gear for the shafts. Otherwise, oil would get dumped directly back into the sump and, therefore, not circulate to the rest of the engine (not good for engine longevity). It's worth noting that the balance shafts present the only bearings where the oil is not first circulated through the oil filter - it comes directly from the pump which may explain why the balance shaft bearings are somewhat vulnerable.

[oVeRdOsE]

My understanding (never having done this) is that while there are kits to completely delete the balance shafts and plug the shaft bearing holes, the more common method is to leave the shafts in place but deactivate them by cutting out the drive gear for the shafts. Otherwise, oil would get dumped directly back into the sump and, therefore, not circulate to the rest of the engine (not good for engine longevity). It's worth noting that the balance shafts present the only bearings where the oil is not first circulated through the oil filter - it comes directly from the pump which may explain why the balance shaft bearings are somewhat vulnerable.

makes sens.

Also, it might be a good idea to get the balancer out completely, since it will gives more oil volume. OP can check if the oil is not dumped back in the pan like you've mentioned.

[Theiceman]

My understanding (never having done this) is that while there are kits to completely delete the balance shafts and plug the shaft bearing holes, the more common method is to leave the shafts in place but deactivate them by cutting out the drive gear for the shafts. Otherwise, oil would get dumped directly back into the sump and, therefore, not circulate to the rest of the engine (not good for engine longevity). It's worth noting that the balance shafts present the only bearings where the oil is not first circulated through the oil filter - it comes directly from the pump which may explain why the balance shaft bearings are somewhat vulnerable.

the problem is if the shafts are already worn and have play ( like the vid a guy posted a few days ago ) , you will still dump oil pressure as there is nothing sealing the bearing, so only choice would be to weld the holes shut and delete the shafts.

My sons B7 is now parked because his oil pressure light came on at idle the other day. last year i did chain tensioner, last month i did oil filter housing , so either the pressure bypass valve just failed in the brand new housing or the sensor or oil pump is toast.

We are in attempts to get it home so i can get a gauge on. im hoping its just a bad sender, but i have a feeling pan drop is in my near future.

[Brillo]

the problem is if the shafts are already worn and have play ( like the vid a guy posted a few days ago ) , you will still dump oil pressure as there is nothing sealing the bearing, so only choice would be to weld the holes shut and delete the shafts.

My sons B7 is now parked because his oil pressure light came on at idle the other day. last year i did chain tensioner, last month i did oil filter housing , so either the pressure bypass valve just failed in the brand new housing or the sensor or oil pump is toast.

We are in attempts to get it home so i can get a gauge on. im hoping its just a bad sender, but i have a feeling pan drop is in my near future.

Theiceman Good point about the balance shaft play that I should have mentioned.

Regarding the bypass in the oil filter, I doubt this will cause much of a low oil pressure condition although if it is malfunctioning, you'll want to get it fixed because that means some fraction of the oil is able to bypass the filter on its way to the three galleries. The bypass valve in the oil pump is another matter altogether. If it is malfunctioning it would be dumping a portion of the oil directly back to the sump obviously bypassing the rest of the lubrication system.

I wish I could tell you of a way to differentiate between the two bypass valves short of removing the oil filter housing first and checking that one. Here is a thought but I'm not positive about this. I think that the oil pressure sensor port is located downstream of the filter and bypass valve. Otherwise, a clogged filter would never trip the low oil pressure sensor, and its usefullness would be diminished. Anyway, at idle you may be at or slightly less than the usual 15 psi. But at 3000+ rpm you should be at the 60 to 65 psi range regardless of the function of the oil filter bypass valve. If you have lower than spec pressure at idle and 3000 rpm I would suspect the oil pump bypass valve. Good luck with your son's car.

[Charles.waite]

Has anyone checked an oil pump housing for a filter/screen in the balance shaft feed passage? Audi uses them in the timing adjuster housing so I’d be curious if there is anything there, especially since the feed is pre-filter. They could easily clog or blow out (common failure mode of the screens, particularly in the new ea888 b8 engines) and either starve the balance shafts or allow debris in to slowly wear them away.

I’ll probably have one in my hands in a month or two, depending on how much time I have to disassemble my bottom end.

[Theiceman]

Has anyone checked an oil pump housing for a filter/screen in the balance shaft feed passage? Audi uses them in the timing adjuster housing so I’d be curious if there is anything there, especially since the feed is pre-filter. They could easily clog or blow out (common failure mode of the screens, particularly in the new ea888 b8 engines) and either starve the balance shafts or allow debris in to slowly wear them away.

I’ll probably have one in my hands in a month or two, depending on how much time I have to disassemble my bottom end.

well if it goes badly for me , i may have one in my hands in a day or two ... i have to get on it quick as junior is driving the b8 for work , and we all know you can check the reliability on that engine with a stop watch , not so much a calendar ..
lol

[Charles.waite]

Hah. They should switch from an odometer to a countdown timer to when the chains are going to snap on the B8s.