O2 sensor only lasted about 8 month failed again... Any ideas?

[V1nny]

Saturday,15,October,2016,14:21:17:55062
VCDS Version: 12.10

Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 551 M
Component and/or Version: 2.7l V6/5VT G 0002
Software Coding: 06711
Work Shop Code: WSC 87119
VCID: 346CABBA04EC79BE5BD
3 Faults Found

17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add)
P1137 - 35-10 - System too Rich - Intermittent
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0134 - 35-00 - No Activity
17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
P1116 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

Readiness: 0010 0000

Stage 3 01 manual Allroad with EGT's coded out, SS downpipes made by RAI Motorsport. This thing eats O2 sensors for breakfast, they do not last longer than a year. I usually buy 4-wire Bosch sensors from Autozone for about $60 a piece.
Is this a sensor quality issue, lack of EGT sensors contributing to hotter temperatures, or maybe normal for stage 3, and I just should shut up and keep replacing them? Would It help if I post a picture of old sensor, replaced last time? There is not much to look for my untrained eye, just a bit of soft carbon deposits on the old one.

[frankwizzle]

I go through O2s alot too. I ended up getting Bosch sensors from pep boys (used a 25% off coupon online then in store pickup) and it comes with a lifetime warranty so if it does go bad I can replace it for free.
Personally I think stage 3 setups can be hard on o2s since we are pushing the limits of our engines capability so it kind of just goes with the territory.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[julex]

what maf and airbox set up do you have?

You know that since I am asking I already have a possible answer .

[V1nny]

what maf and airbox set up do you have?

You know that since I am asking I already have a possible answer .

I have huge cone open air filter element, partition to reduce hot air intake, 85mm MAF housing made by C&L for ford Mustang (hate that thing, heavy chunk of useless metal), and OEM Hitachi MAF sensor also replaced recently.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/cnl-82...304-mach1.html
my MAF housing, but my air filter is twice the size

[julex]

Since I stumbled upon this very issue with fake "bad O2" code I can tell what's causing it in my case. Basically the code only appears when engine bay gets hot and my cone/HPX maf/metal y-pipe heat up a lot causing air measuring problems because something doesn't compensate for temps right, at least here.

So when I drive the car and I park it and then restart it minutes later, the intake is so heat soaked that I register 60C+ on IAT sensor. At that point the ECU is struggling to properly adjust mixture and hits adjustment hard limit on logn term fuel trims (10% I think in stockish ECU) as well as 25% on real-time short term trims and mixture is still out of stoich.

At that point the voltage coming from O2 is still very low, below diagnostics value of 0.02V minimum for faulty circuit condition and the ECU trips "bad O2" fault code due to this funky software bug.

Now, this is my problem which I solved by ramping LTFT to 50% and instant trims to 50% as well so this is not something that you can do on a whim, but it might be that your cone intake is the direct culprit here.

If you reset the codes, do they come back immediately? And if not, do they come back after hot engine restart?

[brokenwrench]

For what it's worth, the common causes of premature failure of narrow-band O2 sensors include, but are not limited to: coolant (i.e. head gasket failure), excess heat, applied voltage bias exceeding ~1.5VDC across the terminals (the common cause for this failure is a resistance check using a multi-meter across the sensing element pins which usually applies ~9VDC).

[V1nny]

Since I stumbled upon this very issue with fake "bad O2" code I can tell what's causing it in my case. Basically the code only appears when engine bay gets hot and my cone/HPX maf/metal y-pipe heat up a lot causing air measuring problems because something doesn't compensate for temps right, at least here.

So when I drive the car and I park it and then restart it minutes later, the intake is so heat soaked that I register 60C+ on IAT sensor. At that point the ECU is struggling to properly adjust mixture and hits adjustment hard limit on logn term fuel trims (10% I think in stockish ECU) as well as 25% on real-time short term trims and mixture is still out of stoich.

At that point the voltage coming from O2 is still very low, below diagnostics value of 0.02V minimum for faulty circuit condition and the ECU trips "bad O2" fault code due to this funky software bug.

Now, this is my problem which I solved by ramping LTFT to 50% and instant trims to 50% as well so this is not something that you can do on a whim, but it might be that your cone intake is the direct culprit here.

If you reset the codes, do they come back immediately? And if not, do they come back after hot engine restart?

Please do not make me more paranoid about IAT then I am already.. My Y-pipe and partition for the intake covered with insulating/reflecting stuff similar to dynamat, I ghetto-engineered some additional cold air intake piping. Will try to post my engine bay pics tomorrow. Also (not sure if it helps) I have pretty decent SRM v3 intercoolers. Codes do not come after reset immediately, but after about 20 minutes of driving..