JHM mechanical adjuster repair kit question

[OlDirtyBroox]

About to get the timing/adjusters done (lovely bank 2 error). And was curious if the jhm repair kit will fix the adjuster failure. From there site read and such it seems like it does but I also had a shop (that will not use JHM products due to bad experiences) tell me they don't even fix the typical issue with the adjuster. Any experience with this? Would def like to spend the other $750 on other goodies and may just get another shop to do the work it just will take a few weeks for them to get under the hood. Thanks for any help guys.

[p3u]

Find a new shop.

[Kambesama]

If you truly believe that is the cause of failure, you can purchase the parts yourself and have a shop install them. Granted that shop will only provide warranty on the labor. Most will not provide parts and diagnostic warranty since they weren't the ones who diagnosed it and did not purchase the parts themselves.

[0396]

How many miles on your car? I'm asking so as to educate myself...just in case as my S4 has 107k now. Thanks, good luck

[neilpaku]

Depends on what the failure is:
- if the recess in the sprocket flogs out (I suppose it's not a failure; more wear than anything), then the JHM sprocket will treat that (any new sprocket would treat it - I bought the JHM sprockets for my wife's car)
- if the adjuster body is damaged, then no it won't if all you get is the sprocket which I think is the main part in the kit. My adjustor body broke out around the locking pin requiring me to get another adjuster body. I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem but it happened on my wife's car

Once you get the adjuster apart, then you'll be able to see what you need. Incidentally, the adjusters don't necessarily wear evenly - the left side on mine was barely worn but the right side (the one that broke) was really flogged out. Nonetheless, if you have to go in there, then the prudent measure is to replace both sides, along with the chain guides

[OlDirtyBroox]

Thanks for all the info guys. Car has 117k and had some misfires, and took it to BFI and was told not to drive it until replaced. A year later and 8k saved, I'm ready to do the deed. Will be replacing all chains and guides, adjusters (if needed), adding manifold spacers, lw clutch/flywheel, lw crank pulley and some snub and engine mount. downpipes/exhaust/tune will come after the clutch break in period. Can't wait

[neilpaku]

Do this:
- dismantle mechanical adjusters - replace sprockets if pin recess worn, replace whole adjuster if pin sloppy in boss
- replace chain guides - mandatory top center and left-side guides for crank-idler chain, others your call but they're not expensive
- chains - most likely do not need changing but make sure you mark them before removal so that you put them back on the same way they came off
- camshaft sprocket bolts
- oil check valves in valley
- assess valve to valve guide wear (my shop charged 800 for new guides - valves were good)
- replace all neoprene hoses and water temp sender on back of engine - they're not (too) expensive and it saves an annoying job later
- use Dow #4 Electrical Insulating Compound to lube all hoses and o-rings for easy fitting and later replacement - you will appreciate it when you try to remove those hoses next year
- use a set of plastic bolt organizers and label each set of bolts that you remove, as you remove them. You will not remember what goes where later on. Take photos if that helps
- even if not touching the ac compressor, take the opportunity to loosen and lube the driveshaft. Use a 17 and 19mm wrench to undo them (turn the ac compressor, not the shaft. Put some antiseize on the threads and then tighten up. Does not need to be real tight because the driveshaft is naturally winding the thread in
- Use the Schwaben camshaft timing kit. Manual says to remove the cam alignment bars when initialling torquing, but since you need to use a 24mm wrench on the other end of the camshaft to hold it, leave them in so that you can be sure the cams don't turn. BUT make sure that it's the wrench that's holding against your torquing
- get a full set of quality Torx 3/8 drive bits, and a #14 triple square 3/8 or 1/2 bit with a 4" bit length for the OEM flywheel bolts
- If you want, get an Oetiker ear clamp set off eBay with 10 sizes up to 32mm - comes with clamp pliers. Those are the stainless one-use clamps that are all over the PCV piping and other places, including the ac compressor driveshaft rubber boot - if you need that clamp, get it from one of the vendors (ECS etc.)
- use a small torque wrench for most hardware - put an Nm to ft-lb chart up on the wall if you need it

[Birdflu]

^ This ^
Outstanding tips, thank you for posting! Any practical, detailed tips like this make a *huge* difference in helping other DIY'ers successfully accomplish these operations.
Thanks neil for posting and thanks OP dirty brooks for posting the initial question! It seems like there is a "resurgence" of home timing jobs happening lately : )

[roboto_1337]

Do this:
- dismantle mechanical adjusters - replace sprockets if pin recess worn, replace whole adjuster if pin sloppy in boss
- replace chain guides - mandatory top center and left-side guides for crank-idler chain, others your call but they're not expensive
- chains - most likely do not need changing but make sure you mark them before removal so that you put them back on the same way they came off
- camshaft sprocket bolts
- oil check valves in valley
- assess valve to valve guide wear (my shop charged 800 for new guides - valves were good)
- replace all neoprene hoses and water temp sender on back of engine - they're not (too) expensive and it saves an annoying job later
- use Dow #4 Electrical Insulating Compound to lube all hoses and o-rings for easy fitting and later replacement - you will appreciate it when you try to remove those hoses next year
- use a set of plastic bolt organizers and label each set of bolts that you remove, as you remove them. You will not remember what goes where later on. Take photos if that helps
- even if not touching the ac compressor, take the opportunity to loosen and lube the driveshaft. Use a 17 and 19mm wrench to undo them (turn the ac compressor, not the shaft. Put some antiseize on the threads and then tighten up. Does not need to be real tight because the driveshaft is naturally winding the thread in
- Use the Schwaben camshaft timing kit. Manual says to remove the cam alignment bars when initialling torquing, but since you need to use a 24mm wrench on the other end of the camshaft to hold it, leave them in so that you can be sure the cams don't turn. BUT make sure that it's the wrench that's holding against your torquing
- get a full set of quality Torx 3/8 drive bits, and a #14 triple square 3/8 or 1/2 bit with a 4" bit length for the OEM flywheel bolts
- If you want, get an Oetiker ear clamp set off eBay with 10 sizes up to 32mm - comes with clamp pliers. Those are the stainless one-use clamps that are all over the PCV piping and other places, including the ac compressor driveshaft rubber boot - if you need that clamp, get it from one of the vendors (ECS etc.)
- use a small torque wrench for most hardware - put an Nm to ft-lb chart up on the wall if you need it

AAA+

[Zolli]

Fantastic tips. I'm getting braver every day