Lets talk adding a little thump to the factory stereo

**chrissurfr** · 10-13-2016 08:33 AM

Hey guys,

Based on the looks of the new S5, I don't think I will trade up for it. So, I'm going to put a few more bucks into mine.

The factory stereo is pretty good. But, I would like to add some punch to it.

What have you guys added to beef it up some? I don't want to go over the top.

Does anyone have a powered sub that they added?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1369333...er-reviews-tab

This JL audio setup seems like a good option to me...

Thanks,
Chris

**Mops@Nemesis** · 10-13-2016 08:45 AM

@h8 h8 rs5 had a pretty nice setup IIRC.

**DreDay** · 10-13-2016 08:52 AM

I'm interested in this as well. I read a thread where someone replaced the B&O sub with a larger sub that looked clean and apparently sounded significantly better.

I think they just had to make the diameter a bit larger but for the most part fit right in the oem slot. I rather do that than add a box I think.

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**b6onboost** · 10-13-2016 09:12 AM

You have 3 options:

1. A powered sub/box combo like the JL Microsub. Its an easy install, easily removed, will sound awesome, but will eat up some trunk space.

2. A custom box for either the driver or passenger side cubby. Takes up no useable space. Sounds awesome. Install can be tricky as you may need to move around OE electronics. Custom fiberglass boxes aren't cheap, but you can find pre-fab MDF ones on ebay.DE.

3. Replace the OE sub on the rear deck with an aftermarket 10in. Its an improvement even if you stick with factory amp. If you amplify it its a huge improvement. It takes up almost no useable trunk space. Its a good amount of work to install it properly, deaden the rear deck and trunk, and you have to choose a sub that will perform well in a free-air environment.

I've ran all three of these setups in an Audi. They are all 10x better than stock. Its just a matter of whether you want an easy plug-n-play solution at the expense of some trunk space or whether you want to increase the install difficulty (or cost if not DIY) in order to have a custom setup that looks factory and doesn't compromise trunk space.

**DontHait** · 10-13-2016 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by b6onboost

You have 3 options:

1. A powered sub/box combo like the JL Microsub. Its an easy install, easily removed, will sound awesome, but will eat up some trunk space.

2. A custom box for either the driver or passenger side cubby. Takes up no useable space. Sounds awesome. Install can be tricky as you may need to move around OE electronics. Custom fiberglass boxes aren't cheap, but you can find pre-fab MDF ones on ebay.DE.

3. Replace the OE sub on the rear deck with an aftermarket 10in. Its an improvement even if you stick with factory amp. If you amplify it its a huge improvement. It takes up almost no useable trunk space. Its a good amount of work to install it properly, deaden the rear deck and trunk, and you have to choose a sub that will perform well in a free-air environment.

I've ran all three of these setups in an Audi. They are all 10x better than stock. Its just a matter of whether you want an easy plug-n-play solution at the expense of some trunk space or whether you want to increase the install difficulty (or cost if not DIY) in order to have a custom setup that looks factory and doesn't compromise trunk space.

How does wiring work for the powered sub?

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**chrissurfr** · 10-13-2016 10:57 AM

I don't really care about trunk space. I prefer an easy install and remove if needed.

So next question:

10 or 12 inch?

Sealed or ported?

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp112lg-tw1-...-systems-93333

http://www.jlaudio.com/acs112lg-tw1-...-systems-93335

**Sofreshs5** · 10-13-2016 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by b6onboost

You have 3 options:

1. A powered sub/box combo like the JL Microsub. Its an easy install, easily removed, will sound awesome, but will eat up some trunk space.

2. A custom box for either the driver or passenger side cubby. Takes up no useable space. Sounds awesome. Install can be tricky as you may need to move around OE electronics. Custom fiberglass boxes aren't cheap, but you can find pre-fab MDF ones on ebay.DE.

3. Replace the OE sub on the rear deck with an aftermarket 10in. Its an improvement even if you stick with factory amp. If you amplify it its a huge improvement. It takes up almost no useable trunk space. Its a good amount of work to install it properly, deaden the rear deck and trunk, and you have to choose a sub that will perform well in a free-air environment.

I've ran all three of these setups in an Audi. They are all 10x better than stock. Its just a matter of whether you want an easy plug-n-play solution at the expense of some trunk space or whether you want to increase the install difficulty (or cost if not DIY) in order to have a custom setup that looks factory and doesn't compromise trunk space.

This what I've been wanting to do but I haven't found the right replacement sub for option 3. Do you have any recommendations. I only want to replace the sub for now

**cmoore86** · 10-13-2016 11:31 AM

Originally Posted by chrissurfr

I don't really care about trunk space. I prefer an easy install and remove if needed.

So next question:

10 or 12 inch?

Sealed or ported?

http://www.jlaudio.com/acp112lg-tw1-...-systems-93333

http://www.jlaudio.com/acs112lg-tw1-...-systems-93335

I looked into these same JL options. Ulitimately I ended up putting in a 10" Image Dynamics sub in the oem position and saved the money (far more pleased with this than I thought I would be). But when I was looking I wanted the wedge shape box to fit better against the shape of the back seats. I was going to put the amp in the area with oem amp. I was going to get this one. http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110rg-w3v3-...-systems-93135

**Sofreshs5** · 10-13-2016 12:01 PM

Originally Posted by cmoore86

I looked into these same JL options. Ulitimately I ended up putting in a 10" Image Dynamics sub in the oem position and saved the money (far more pleased with this than I thought I would be). But when I was looking I wanted the wedge shape box to fit better against the shape of the back seats. I was going to put the amp in the area with oem amp. I was going to get this one. http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110rg-w3v3-...-systems-93135

Which image dynamic sub. The 2 ohm or 4ohm?

**cmoore86** · 10-13-2016 12:14 PM

Originally Posted by Sofreshs5

Which image dynamic sub. The 2 ohm or 4ohm?

I actually found an 8 ohm right before it was discontinued. The CTX108. The OEM amp is 8ohm so you could use a dual voice coil 4ohm and wire it correctly and it should work. That is the hardest part about using the oem amp...its 8ohms.

**miked1978** · 10-13-2016 01:41 PM

Ive been considering some options here as well. the B&O on the back shelf is a terrible design and rattles on certain songs. really disappointed with it actually. I like the idea f replacing it for a better or more powered sub, but that wont help the design flaw... if I did anything, I would just disconnect the B&O and add a specific enclosure in the trunk.

a quality 10 is all you need here... sealed enclosure for punch, ported for rumble - your taste.

**b6onboost** · 10-13-2016 01:50 PM

Basic amp kit.

You just need power, ground, and to tap the OE sub for signal. Some models also need a remote turn-on too, but many now have an auto-on feature. Since the battery is in the trunk, it probably takes 15mins to wire it up. More if a first timer, but still very easy.

Originally Posted by DontHait

How does wiring work for the powered sub?

Pioneer TS-W261D4 or Kicker 40CWD104.

Both are DVC and can be wired to 2ohm or 8ohm impedance. If you're keeping your Audi amp, the Base amp needs a 2ohm sub and the B&O needs an 8ohm. The Pioneer is the most popular option. It is better suited for free-air and make better use of the limited stock amps power, but its also a really deep sub that protrudes into the trunk a lot. If you have the non-B&O amp, I'd recommend the Pioneer. However if you have B&O I'd go with the Kicker. While its not as efficient, the more powerful B&O amp more than makes up for it, plus its a good inch or so shallower.

There are plenty of threads in the B8 forum discussing this swap and other considerations, such as deadening the deck, using a MDF spacer ring, etc. Like I said, its a much more involved install.

Originally Posted by Sofreshs5

This what I've been wanting to do but I haven't found the right replacement sub for option 3. Do you have any recommendations. I only want to replace the sub for now

**chrissurfr** · 10-13-2016 01:56 PM

Originally Posted by miked1978

Ive been considering some options here as well. the B&O on the back shelf is a terrible design and rattles on certain songs. really disappointed with it actually. I like the idea f replacing it for a better or more powered sub, but that wont help the design flaw... if I did anything, I would just disconnect the B&O and add a specific enclosure in the trunk.

a quality 10 is all you need here... sealed enclosure for punch, ported for rumble - your taste.

FYI there is an Audi TSB to fix that rattle...my car is in the shop right now getting that and the doors addressed....

**miked1978** · 10-13-2016 02:00 PM

Originally Posted by chrissurfr

FYI there is an Audi TSB to fix that rattle...my car is in the shop right now getting that and the doors addressed....

I told them this at my 5K service and they just shoved some foam in the back deck. didn't help. Which shop are you in? central or west? I use west...

door? for a rattle there too? I hear it in the passenger side occasionally...

**chrissurfr** · 10-13-2016 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by miked1978

I told them this at my 5K service and they just shoved some foam in the back deck. didn't help. Which shop are you in? central or west? I use west...

door? for a rattle there too? I hear it in the passenger side occasionally...

West screwed me a couple years ago so I quit going there. Josh at Audi central is awesome. Customer focused dude.

**jkownz** · 10-13-2016 07:03 PM

check my build thread. I added custom box/setup if you want to see. I kept my whole trunk space. As the RS is already limited.

**dejangcool** · 10-13-2016 07:57 PM

i found that putting the sub in a box rather than free air made it sounds heaps better.

**diego_demarco** · 10-13-2016 08:45 PM

Has anybody done it to a cabriolet?

**Zonsolo** · 10-14-2016 12:42 AM

Originally Posted by dejangcool

i found that putting the sub in a box rather than free air made it sounds heaps better.

Just pulling the stock sub and slamming it into a box in the trunk? What size did you use?

**dejangcool** · 10-16-2016 03:48 AM

no sorry i wasnt clear enough, i bought a 10 inch pioneer and firstly i just connected it stock with the b&o, it added a little more punch but i got more hungrier for bass so i then added a amp to the sub still in the shelf, this was a bad idea as the more power the sub got , the more it shook the shelf and it was sounded worse and not better, i then took it out and put it into a sub box and its more boomier and punchy than being just in the shelf, and less rattles too

**kmarei** · 10-16-2016 06:46 AM

Originally Posted by diego_demarco

Has anybody done it to a cabriolet?

Yes
Get this enclosure, with its recommended subwoofer
It fits right behind the rear seat, in between the seat and the compartment that hold the convertible roof
So you don't lose trunk space
You will need some foam or something to hold it in place
I used some foam that was protecting a desktop pc during shipping

Sounds great, and is angled the same as the back seat

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Djna5Gm...UD-SW250T.html

**diego_demarco** · 10-16-2016 08:33 AM

Originally Posted by kmarei

Yes
Get this enclosure, with its recommended subwoofer
It fits right behind the rear seat, in between the seat and the compartment that hold the convertible roof
So you don't lose trunk space
You will need some foam or something to hold it in place
I used some foam that was protecting a desktop pc during shipping

Sounds great, and is angled the same as the back seat

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Djna5Gm...UD-SW250T.html

Awesome! And then I'll just need a small amp for that right? Is the install a pain in the butt or is it something any shop can do?

**kmarei** · 10-16-2016 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by diego_demarco

Awesome! And then I'll just need a small amp for that right? Is the install a pain in the butt or is it something any shop can do?

I have the amp mounted next to the battery under the trunk floor
I also have an audio control lc2i
You need that to be able to tape the wires going to the OEM sub
I did the install myself, wasn't too hard

You need a class D amp
JL xd300/1 or 600/1 would be great

**extratime** · 10-19-2016 01:57 PM

I have a Rockford 12" powered sub in my car. I love it and it wasn't to pricey. Anyone have any idea why I have to set Phase to 180 degrees instead of 0 degrees? Every time I put it at 0 the sub comes on after the lights fade out and it blasts full volume even though the car is completely shut off.

**Corners4kids** · 10-19-2016 06:28 PM

I have the same sub, but I'm 10". Did you tap the factory sub wires for your LOC (line out converter)? I did and forgot that since the sub was upside down (factory) the positive/negative wires are essentially reversed compared to what you want for the Rockford sub. You can switch the wires for your signal leading to your LOC or leave the phase switched. I flipped the wires and have had no issues.

I still have the factory sub running for added high end bass and set my low pass filter for 60 and below on the Rock.

**extratime** · 10-20-2016 12:34 AM

Originally Posted by Corners4kids

I have the same sub, but I'm 10". Did you tap the factory sub wires for your LOC (line out converter)? I did and forgot that since the sub was upside down (factory) the positive/negative wires are essentially reversed compared to what you want for the Rockford sub. You can switch the wires for your signal leading to your LOC or leave the phase switched. I flipped the wires and have had no issues.

I still have the factory sub running for added high end bass and set my low pass filter for 60 and below on the Rock.

I did tap the factory sub and I also left it active. You are a 100% correct about having the wires reversed, I never even thought about the factory sub being upside down. That being said, I think I will just leave it because everything seems to be working very well at 180. I still can't get over how the B&O system went from being a decent factory system to a outrageously good system just by adding a simple powered sub. This is a must mod for anyone who loves music IMHO.

**doug97gxe** · 10-20-2016 04:52 AM

you don't need a 12" .. i have a 10" in my trunk in a box .. it puts out 2000 Watts Peak.. its turned down to volume 1 on my amp and its still knocks

**doug97gxe** · 10-20-2016 04:53 AM

Originally Posted by Corners4kids

I have the same sub, but I'm 10". Did you tap the factory sub wires for your LOC (line out converter)? I did and forgot that since the sub was upside down (factory) the positive/negative wires are essentially reversed compared to what you want for the Rockford sub. You can switch the wires for your signal leading to your LOC or leave the phase switched. I flipped the wires and have had no issues.

I still have the factory sub running for added high end bass and set my low pass filter for 60 and below on the Rock.

yes Factory wires to LOC .. i've had 3 LOC's .. the best one is Audio Control Lc2i .. i had the PAC it was ok.. but the bass was delayed at some points.. I had the JL Fix-82 which is over kill and really needed to tap every possible signal then i got the LC2i perfect

**mcbuck** · 10-20-2016 07:02 AM

I'll throw my setup in here -
Arc Audio 10" in a sealed box (IIRC about .85 cu ft),
Alpine mrv-m500 and the LC2i both mounted in the driver side cubby with the factory amp

good tight bass and really rounds out the B&O system

**extratime** · 10-20-2016 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by doug97gxe

you don't need a 12" .. i have a 10" in my trunk in a box .. it puts out 2000 Watts Peak.. its turned down to volume 1 on my amp and its still knocks

Agreed my 12" is probably a little overkill. I have the Gain turned down a lot. However, it was only $20 more then the 10" and the box was minimally bigger so I went for it. Plus I had an effective salesman that upsold me even though I knew he was doing it.

**chrissurfr** · 10-20-2016 10:51 AM

What amp would be best for this?

http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110rg-w3v3-...-systems-93135

**doug97gxe** · 10-20-2016 02:28 PM

Originally Posted by chrissurfr

What amp would be best for this?

http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110rg-w3v3-...-systems-93135

Personally I'm not a JL fan but JL Audio JX500/1D

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**audirs5guy** · 10-20-2016 02:50 PM

Originally Posted by cmoore86

I actually found an 8 ohm right before it was discontinued. The CTX108. The OEM amp is 8ohm so you could use a dual voice coil 4ohm and wire it correctly and it should work. That is the hardest part about using the oem amp...its 8ohms.

Was it a direct fit or did you need to drill some mounting holes? Thanks.

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**cmoore86** · 10-20-2016 02:56 PM

Originally Posted by audirs5guy

Was it a direct fit or did you need to drill some mounting holes? Thanks.

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It was not a completely direct fit. The mounting point on the deck is not flat enough for the speaker to sit on it correctly. So I used some rope caulk to make it a nice and tight fitment. But no new holes had to be drilled. Basically I followed this DIY and did everything they did. http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b...guide-2790664/

**rooneyy** · 10-28-2016 04:11 PM

I have a B8 S5 and I wanted to do this as well but I can't say I know much of anything audio wise. What would I be looking for in a subwoofer? Does it have to be 10" or is 12" ok too? How much ohm's should be consider? I would like to just use the stock amp and stock as much else as I can.

I'd like some more kick to the sound system but staying as stock as possible.

**doug97gxe** · 10-28-2016 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by rooneyy

I have a B8 S5 and I wanted to do this as well but I can't say I know much of anything audio wise. What would I be looking for in a subwoofer? Does it have to be 10" or is 12" ok too? How much ohm's should be consider? I would like to just use the stock amp and stock as much else as I can.

I'd like some more kick to the sound system but staying as stock as possible.

depends on the music you listen to.. heavy bass... mid bass.. you don't want to get something that will be a waste of money or too much..

I listen to a lot of hiphop and dancehall so i love bass heavy music..

if you don't want heavy deep bass you can get away with a 200 watt sub woofer .. what are your tastes?

**rooneyy** · 10-29-2016 02:53 AM

I love bass heavy music. Love the thump. What about subwoofer size?

**doug97gxe** · 10-29-2016 05:00 AM

Originally Posted by rooneyy

I love bass heavy music. Love the thump. What about subwoofer size?

Size 10" is fine .. I have an image dynamics idmax 10 that will blow away 90% of 12's on the market

Vs Stock Sub

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**doug97gxe** · 10-29-2016 07:18 AM

the choice of sub matters also where you will mount it.. if you want it in the rear deck you will need a smaller magnet sub, my sub magnet was too large to clear the back glass so i had to put it in a seal box.

I'm not really a fan of JL Audio, they make good products but they are middle market products at a premium market price.

Sub manufactures i like RE, Diamond Audio, Rainbow, Seas Lotus, Arc Audio, Image Dynamics and Morel

you can start your price/research here http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwo...ubwoofers.html

then you can read up on choices and ideas here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

my fav shallow mount sub that should fit in the rear deck is the Morel Ultimo SC http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwo...subwoofer.html

this sub has EXCELLENT Sound Quality while giving you amazing bass notes and thump.. very very clean sub

another alternative with a little less thump would be the Image Dynamics IDQ http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwo...subwoofer.html

My Sub and possible the best sub ever made for Sound Quality and Loudness is the ID Max .. you will be hard pressed to find another sub on the planet that will do both http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwo...subwoofer.html

Rainbow makes amazing speakers centered on Sound Quality .. i once had a full Rainbow setup in my truck and it was amazing.. not enough bass as i wanted but the notes from high to low was 100% accurate http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwo...rand%5B%5D=226

I still have my rainbow amp DM2000 that i use with my S5 to power the ID Max http://www.woofersetc.com/p-7097-ipa...amplifier.html

**Caymanite** · 10-29-2016 08:14 AM

I have the infinity basslink as its an all in one unit and relatively small. My favorite feature is the remote knob that you wire up by the drivers seat so you can easily control the bass depending on the song. I hate going into the MMI to adjust bass levels.

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