Engine rebuild question

[Osmosis]

I have a 2000 2.7t Quattro biturbo. and I recently pulled the engine/trans to replace the torque converter. I did a compression check to find 4 cylinders @ 120 and two @ 90 psi. The turbos were leaking oil, yea blown turbos, and the car drove just fine, actually very nice to drive with good power even with the low compression. I was actually surprised of how low the compression was because the car had plenty of power.

So, now I have my engine on a stand. I'm looking through my Bently manual ( electronic version ) and I can not find torque spec's or sequences for the rods, main's and intake manifold. Where can I find this information? I have found some information that I have over looked as the PDF file is difficult to wade through. I"ve use the search and put in key words with no success on the torque specs for the intake manifold and such. I have built multiple engines in the past, never an Audi, primarily chevy's. I'm somewhat frustrated with the Bently as I have found a lot of information missing in regards to my expectations of what would be included in the manual.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you!

[Kaane]

Here are the mains.



Rods.



Manifold has no sequence just 10nm of torque.

[Beth641]

Here are the mains.



Rods.



Manifold has no sequence just 10nm of torque.

well. its complete guide book :)

[Osmosis]

Thank you Soooo Much! I think part of the problem is that I purchased an electric PDF manual and it is difficult to find info on it. I've used the search and I come up with nothing. What page did you pull these pic's off of ???

Thank you very much!

[Kaane]

I have ELSA installed. It's the Audi Electronic shop manual that the dealership uses.

[Osmosis]

I"m also looking for the oil pump details. I see on the back of the engine, there is a stand pipe type device that is in the center rear of the engine, just above the rear main seal. It looks like there are two other similar pipes coming from each turbo. I assume that these feed the turbos from the oil pump. By chance, do you have any such info on these stand pipes. I can't tell ya how much I appreciate the help! I have build multiple engines, mostly chevy's. I worked for Art Morrison AM 25 years ago when I was in high school. I"m obviously not used to how the Audi's are made & I was expecting more info in the manual I purchased :(

Thanks again!!!

[Kaane]

Are you talking about the oil distribution block? It feeds oil to the turbos. What do you want to know?

[Osmosis]

Kaane,

Thank you for your help! I was wondering how to attack this engine. Will I need to do anything special to disassemble the engine in regards to the oil distribution block? Special gaskets or is there anything else I need to address during this engine tear down?

My plans are to tear the motor down, clean up the heads and address any issues that need to be fixed. I need new camshaft chain tensioner pads, new piston rings and a gasket kit. I also am rebuilding the turbos. I do plan on plasti-gauging the main's and rod bearings to verify the bearings are good, granted, I do have good oil pressure. At this point, I"'m' just wondering what else I may need to address while taking apart the engine. The oil distribution block is a new creature to me :) Thanks for the help! I"m gonna start tearing her down Thursday :)

[Kaane]

There is nothing special about it, just feeds pressurized oil to the turbos. Honestly these cars are just not worth going that deep into. Get a used low mileage motor, replaced some minor gaskets and be good for 100k miles. Full rebuild gets expensive, just bearings and bolts and rings will be probably 1000+.

[Osmosis]

Yea, I assume my rods and mains are fine. I"ve had great oil pressure, just crappy compression; 120 on Bank 2, Bank 1 I had 90, 120, 90. I plan on just putting new rings in her, timing chain pads and belt kit, rebuild the turbos and replace the converter, then seal her back up. I'll start tomorrow, working today :( Thank you again for the info and help!!!

[brokenwrench]

Before you go through the effort of rebuilding your bottom end, I assume you already did a leakdown test on your valves and checked your head gasket? I'm no expert on this engine, but low compression can be caused by several things, including even the cam tensioners in some cases (I won't engage in an argument about that, just know it's POSSIBLE). I only raise the questions because bad rings on turbo engines will usually cause problems almost immediately and get really bad really fast, so my first assumption is usually not the rings unless other problems are going on (e.g. gas in the oil, high crank case pressures, galled cylinder walls).

[Osmosis]

Brokenwrench,

Thanks for the input. Yes, before I do the tear down, I do plan on doing a leak down test. Tomorrow, granted I don't get stuck doing something on the house, I plan to start this venture. Starting with a leak down test after I pull the valve covers. By The Way.....I've never had an over head cam car before, how can you tell if the cylinders are @ TDC on an overhead cam car such as the 2.7t? I had one overhead cam truck 4 banger, but it's been so long since I've seen one.....I kind of forgot what it was like. I do remember using a feeler gauge to properly set the valve lash. Now back to the engine, With cylinders 1 and 3 being low on compression @ 90 and the other 4 cylinders also reading low @ 120, I highly suspect the rings. However, on an interesting note, after I did my compression test, I squirted 3cc's of engine oil into each cylinder and my compression shot up to almost 200. And, my turbos are blown and I was burning a ton of oil. I'm sure that the oil passing through the turbos was entering in the intake and keeping my compression high enough to the point that when I drove the car, let's just say she had plenty of power. I never noticed any smoke unless I jumped on it from a start. But then, I rarely jumped on the throttle on this car...she's my commuter so I gas and go. All That being said, I would rather pull the heads and had some work done on them instead of doing the entire engine...... so a leak down test is in order for tomorrow. One thing I do know that is that I do have good oil pressure. But...I'm very type A and that being said, if I do put new rings in, I will be plasti-gauging the rods and mains to check for clearances.....just in case :)

[Osmosis]

I'm trying to remember how to get each cylinder @ TDC. I had the cam bar tool in place with all marks aligned. I opened up passengers side valve cover and the number 3 cylinder, third cylinder from the passengers side, closest to the passenger compartment had the timing marks on cam and notches lined up. I was told that when the timing belt is changed, the no. 3 cylinder is @ TDC. Correct? It looks to be true by the position of the cams on the lifters.

That being said, I can't remember exactly how to go through the firing order for the leak down test. I think...you rotate the engine 180deg and continue on through the firing order. Cylinder no. 1 is passengers front cylinder, no. 2 is the one behind no.1, and 3 is the closest to the passengers compartment on the passengers side. 4,5, and 6 are on the drivers side, correct?

That being said, Do I check the leak down on cylinder number 3, then rotate the engine 180 deg and check next cylinder in the firing order (after cylinder 3), then turn the engine another 180 to the next cylinder and so on? It's been a long time since I have done this procedure.

BTW, cylinder no. 3 is not holding much pressure, massive leak on exhaust side. Leaks on intake and in the through the rings also. From my guess, I will be adding a valve job to this project :(

Thanks everyone!

[Osmosis]

Well,

My DIY leak down tester that I have not used in over 7 years is not holding pressure....partly due to the cheap arse Chinese Harbor Freight air hose and to the regulator. I definitely need to do a valve clean up, my exhaust valves are obviously leaking upon listening to the exhaust manifold any time i have air pressure hook up to each cylinder @ TDC. The crank case also is hissing. I"m gonna pull the heads and have my trusted machinist inspect and fix what needs being fixed, plus new rings :( Either way, gonna do this job right. Intake side is nice and quite, so I know @ TDC, the intake side is ok. Hoping this is not gonna cost me an arm an a leg.