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  1. #1
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    Coolant Warning light and the A/C...

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    Ok, so got an oil change yesterday at a reliable Indy shop (not saying the issues are related just giving all the background info). Yesterday I noticed that while sitting in the pickup line at school with the car parked and engine running that the A/C stopped blowing cold and was lukewarm. When I started driving again though the A/C cooled back down. Today as I was driving I noticed same issue, A/C would blow cold while moving but get lukewarm when stopped. When I went to pick up my daughter today, the A/C got lukewarm again while I was parked with the engine running but then...the COOLANT LIGHT went off and needle was close to HOT. So, Shut the car off. Drove to a nearby street to pop the hood and the level in the reservoir was near max and I could not detect any noticeable leaks but the coolant light was still on with A/C running lukewarm. I shut the car off for a bit and then restarted, turned A/C OFF...then needle went to halfway and I got the car home fine, no more warning light, no noticeable leaks and reservoir still near max.

    Does anyone have ANY idea what might be going on here?

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings jstarr427's Avatar
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    sounds like you're radiator fans aren't turning on. start by checking fuses, then maybe try VAGCOM to activate the fans. could be the fan controller went, vs the actual motors themselves.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    Coolant Warning light and the A/C...

    Quote Originally Posted by DudeDah View Post
    Ok, so got an oil change yesterday at a reliable Indy shop (not saying the issues are related just giving all the background info). Yesterday I noticed that while sitting in the pickup line at school with the car parked and engine running that the A/C stopped blowing cold and was lukewarm. When I started driving again though the A/C cooled back down. Today as I was driving I noticed same issue, A/C would blow cold while moving but get lukewarm when stopped. When I went to pick up my daughter today, the A/C got lukewarm again while I was parked with the engine running but then...the COOLANT LIGHT went off and needle was close to HOT. So, Shut the car off. Drove to a nearby street to pop the hood and the level in the reservoir was near max and I could not detect any noticeable leaks but the coolant light was still on with A/C running lukewarm. I shut the car off for a bit and then restarted, turned A/C OFF...then needle went to halfway and I got the car home fine, no more warning light, no noticeable leaks and reservoir still near max.

    Does anyone have ANY idea what might be going on here?
    IIRC the A6 has 2 cooling fans. Both will run continuously when the A/C is running; pulling outside air across the A/C Condensor. When the A/C is not running, they will activate based on coolant temp. I would check to see your fans are running by keeping the car in park with the A/C running. You should be able to pop the hood and see (and hear) them. If the fans are operating the way they should, then I would check the refrigerant levels in the A/C system.
    Last edited by SinCityA6; 10-10-2016 at 07:06 PM.
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
    I: Soul Black, CF Trim, LEDs, Paddles, C7 Shifter, Escort 9500i, Blackvue Dashcam
    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings jstarr427's Avatar
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    '05 BMW E46 330i ZHP, '91 3000GT VR4
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    this^^ you should be able to see and hear the fans running. I believe they are PWM controlled to vary in speed based on AC load/demand. scan it and post the codes!

  5. #5
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    Gentlemen...THANK YOU. I appreciate the info. I tried doing some research and it seemed the signs were leading towards it being fan related. Possibly a fan control module or something of that nature. I am afraid to drive it to my favorite Indy shop which is probably 20 miles away and have been waiting for a shop that is walking distance (not far enough that the car will even get warm) to scan it and take a look but I think the guy is on vacation because they haven't been open since Friday. I'll try the troubleshooting methods listed above, I did notice when the car was OFF that the passengers side fan was turning on and off, but did not notice what the fans were doing while the car was running and the A/C was on.

    On a related note to this issue, I think I am migrating forums...

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings jstarr427's Avatar
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    '05 BMW E46 330i ZHP, '91 3000GT VR4
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    Glad to hear you're headed in the right direction! If you're hearing the fan randomly turn on and off when the car isn't running, that sure sounds like a fan controller going nuts. If you keep the AC off to reduce heat load, and drive the 20 min to the shop, you may be ok as long as you watch the temperature gauge.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DudeDah View Post
    Gentlemen...THANK YOU......

    On a related note to this issue, I think I am migrating forums...
    Sorry if I am being dense, but what does this mean?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
    I: Soul Black, CF Trim, LEDs, Paddles, C7 Shifter, Escort 9500i, Blackvue Dashcam
    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SinCityA6 View Post
    Sorry if I am being dense, but what does this mean?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    Oh, I normally use a different forum but it seems as of late it's been tough to get useful information there with issues that are more...nuanced I guess. I posted here and in a matter of MINUTES had information leading me in the right direction. I think I will be coming here first from now on, that's all.
    Currently Driving: 2008 A6 Avant - Bone stock
    Previously owned: 1998.5 B5 A4 Avant, S4 suspension, ECU and TCU chips, Alpine/BA ProSeries Stero

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    Glad to have you!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
    I: Soul Black, CF Trim, LEDs, Paddles, C7 Shifter, Escort 9500i, Blackvue Dashcam
    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T; Past: 2006 Audi A3 2.0T
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    If it isn't fan related, it could be the thermostat? It's a known issue on the 3.0T.

    Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstarr427 View Post
    this^^ you should be able to see and hear the fans running. I believe they are PWM controlled to vary in speed based on AC load/demand. scan it and post the codes!
    I went into the garage this morning and started the car and turned on the A/C. I could see both fans turn on simultaneously from time to time for just short bursts. BUT I didn't let the car get up to a temperature that moved the needle. I have an appointment to take it to the shop first thing in the morning. Sound like the thermostat at this point or still potentially fan related...or are these useless questions without providing codes? ;0)

    This car really has been much better than my B5 but I am now at the 125,000 mile point and just made my last payment on it last month...
    Currently Driving: 2008 A6 Avant - Bone stock
    Previously owned: 1998.5 B5 A4 Avant, S4 suspension, ECU and TCU chips, Alpine/BA ProSeries Stero

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings jstarr427's Avatar
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    I beleive when I first turn the AC on in my 09 the fans come on, ramp up to full speed, and then calm down and stay on at lower speeds consistently. It does this even with the AC on when its relatively cool outside (65-70 Deg) and the Temp is set at 72. If the car was blowing warm air but wasnt overheating I'm still thinking Fan issues.
    It's anyone's guess without codes, if the T-stat is the issue, you'll likely get a code for that. However I've never seen one fail in the closed position.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstarr427 View Post
    I beleive when I first turn the AC on in my 09 the fans come on, ramp up to full speed, and then calm down and stay on at lower speeds consistently. It does this even with the AC on when its relatively cool outside (65-70 Deg) and the Temp is set at 72. If the car was blowing warm air but wasnt overheating I'm still thinking Fan issues.
    It's anyone's guess without codes, if the T-stat is the issue, you'll likely get a code for that. However I've never seen one fail in the closed position.
    Sweet, I'll ask the mechanic to write down the codes for me and post what he finds. This is my second Audi and you think by now I would have gotten a VAG-COM of my own but...there IS a Mac version now correct?
    Currently Driving: 2008 A6 Avant - Bone stock
    Previously owned: 1998.5 B5 A4 Avant, S4 suspension, ECU and TCU chips, Alpine/BA ProSeries Stero

  14. #14
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    Just came from the mechanic and he said its the fan control module. Apparently the drivers side fan was bad and it "locking up" threw amperage back to the module and fried it. Getting a new module and both fans for just over $1000...
    Currently Driving: 2008 A6 Avant - Bone stock
    Previously owned: 1998.5 B5 A4 Avant, S4 suspension, ECU and TCU chips, Alpine/BA ProSeries Stero

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings jstarr427's Avatar
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    '05 BMW E46 330i ZHP, '91 3000GT VR4
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    Glad the car is on the way to getting fixed. His reasoning sounds plausible- although I think sometimes its more due to excessive current draw from the fan through the controller that fries it.. I think they do make a mac version of Vag-Com now. If you own multiple Audi's/VW's its definitely worth it. I've got one.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstarr427 View Post
    Glad the car is on the way to getting fixed. His reasoning sounds plausible- although I think sometimes its more due to excessive current draw from the fan through the controller that fries it.. I think they do make a mac version of Vag-Com now. If you own multiple Audi's/VW's its definitely worth it. I've got one.
    You seem like a good guy to ask...what is your take on timing belt/chain replacement? I THOUGHT I heard the C6 used a chain which was more durable than a belt and could go longer until it was necessary to change it....or is this just plain WRONG?
    Currently Driving: 2008 A6 Avant - Bone stock
    Previously owned: 1998.5 B5 A4 Avant, S4 suspension, ECU and TCU chips, Alpine/BA ProSeries Stero

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DudeDah View Post
    You seem like a good guy to ask...what is your take on timing belt/chain replacement? I THOUGHT I heard the C6 used a chain which was more durable than a belt and could go longer until it was necessary to change it....or is this just plain WRONG?
    All C6 models use timing chains. They are more durable than a belt and are considered "maintenance free". However, when they start to go, it is a major repair job. The chains are located at the rear of the motor; sandwiched between the engine and transmission. Based on that, replacement is something that should be done when signs of wear are becoming apparent. These signs are an extended rattle when cold starting. A brief rattle (1-2 seconds) is ok but anything lasting longer is a sign of wear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    '09 C6.5 A6
    M: 3.0t, GIAC/AWE Stg II+, Roc*Euro Intake
    I: Soul Black, CF Trim, LEDs, Paddles, C7 Shifter, Escort 9500i, Blackvue Dashcam
    E: Ibis White, 15% Tint, Smoked Corners, Tinted Tails, S4 Rockers, S6 Blades, RS6 Grill, OEM Splitters (F/R)
    S: H&R Springs/Sways, Koni FSDs, Adams Rotors, Akebono Pads, SS Brake Lines, Paint Matched Calipers, Niche Misano M116 Wheels

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by SinCityA6 View Post
    All C6 models use timing chains. They are more durable than a belt and are considered "maintenance free". However, when they start to go, it is a major repair job. The chains are located at the rear of the motor; sandwiched between the engine and transmission. Based on that, replacement is something that should be done when signs of wear are becoming apparent. These signs are an extended rattle when cold starting. A brief rattle (1-2 seconds) is ok but anything lasting longer is a sign of wear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    I remember on my B5 that the water pump, thermostat and tensioners were all "right there" and when you did the timing belt and it was advised to knock out those items while you had the front of the car pulled off. Is it the same case with the C6? Are those items on the back of the engine near the chain? Thanks for all this unrelated info BTW...
    Currently Driving: 2008 A6 Avant - Bone stock
    Previously owned: 1998.5 B5 A4 Avant, S4 suspension, ECU and TCU chips, Alpine/BA ProSeries Stero

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