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  1. #1
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    Help with transmission removal

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    Whatsup y'all. I've owed my 2000 s4 b5 for about a month. The 1-2 shift coller needs to be replaced. I ordered the rebuild kit from scotty and the DVD from jhm. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lift so I'll be putting the car on jack stands and pulling the transmission by itself.
    My mechanical knowledge is Very limited. For instance the most difficult repair I've done was changing a water pump on my 1998 ram 1500. I have no idea where to begin when pulling the transmission.
    So please, help a brother out! What exactly do I need to disconnect in order to pull this transmission? What steps do/did you take? A
    1.
    2.
    3.
    Format would be great but I'm not picky. I'll take any advice you're willing to share. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to reply!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Have you searched? There are many good threads about this. Almost everyone pulls the motor and transmission together, even when working under a lift. IIRC wbrunner tried pulling the trans in his driveway. Got it done but wished he'd pulled the motor/trans in the end.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4kamila6's Avatar
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    Going to need a bunch of floor jacks, jack stands, and preferably an engine hoist to support engine and tranny from top. If you disconnect the lower control arms from subframe, disconnect axles, and disconnect driveshaft from tranny, think all you need to do then is screw off your shift nob and your entire tranny/shift linkage should be able to drop with motor and subframe. Im probably forgetting something but thats how I'd do it. Its hard to remove the upper bellhousing bolts without the extra room.

  4. #4
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    Yea I've read almost every thread written concerning 1-2 shift collers. Which is how I was able to diagnose my problem in the first place. I've also searched for info on how to do the actual transmission pull but to no avail... Do you remember the names of any of those treads by chance?

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Find an enthusiast or somebody else with exp to help. May cost a bit more, but what you are doing is far beyond what you have done before.
    These cars are not easy to work on and you will be needing quite a few tools, press, etc to do this job.

    It is doable diy, but this job is no joke.
    Id say the most important thing here is to be honest with yourself and abilities when making the decision diy it.
    It is real easy to get in over your head here and fk a lot things up, or end up with a basket case yard anchor that you will have to pay somebody to take off your hands.

    Beyond that, if on jackstands, Id pull the motor and take the opportunity to tidy up anything else you see.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  6. #6
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    Can this be done without an engine hoist?

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    If you do it by dropping the subframe you could prob roll it out on jacks.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  8. #8
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    Zillarob damn bro that was not very confidence inspiring haha. To be honest though I agree with everything you said. I have a lot MORE research to do and a few more tools to buy but at the end of the day it's just nuts and bolts. I've got a pretty bad ass uncle letting me use his shop. He's also replaced transmissions before but nothing like this.

  9. #9
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    Roll it out on jacks?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Shhmaudi's Avatar
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    I just did 2 of these jobs on jack stands in my garage( finishing the last one up today) and I can tell you if you dont have a lift... You are going to want to pull the engine and trans as a unit. trust me a few extra steps disconnecting the fuel lines, wiring harness, powersteering line, dropping the AC off the motor and then the norm disconnecting the shifter, mounts, driveshaft, and exhaust is much easier than trying to work the bell housing bolts in that tight ass exhaust tunnel.. Plus our trannys are heavy ******s.. Its really not that bad of a job to pull the whole thing.. I got it down to 2 hrs now.. Youtube the old skool audi b5 s4 engine removal video that vid has tons of hints and tips good luck
    Old: 1.8T Stg 3, Noggy stg 3, Silvaro tag 3 B5 |JHM Trans W/Carbon Syncros 4:1 diff|Tial 770|I.E Rods|Built 2.8 Heads W/ supertech RS4 intake, Y pipe, manifold etc...
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead_farmer View Post
    Zillarob damn bro that was not very confidence inspiring haha. To be honest though I agree with everything you said. I have a lot MORE research to do and a few more tools to buy but at the end of the day it's just nuts and bolts. I've got a pretty bad ass uncle letting me use his shop. He's also replaced transmissions before but nothing like this.
    Lol, it wasnt meant to be.
    Many people have diy'd this successfully, but a healthy dose of fear is always good to keep you in check while doing it
    The jhm dvd was a good call and will walk you through it.

    It is all righty tighty, lefty loosey for the most part, but there be dragons lurking in these evil fkrs.
    Im sure there are more, but here are the ones off the top of my head.
    Dont fk with the heater core!! They can be on there good, but pop them off the back of the motor.
    Leave the driveshaft on the rear diff if you can. That one likes to be a mofo.
    Slave in/out is a damned if you do, damned if you dont thing. I take them out so I dont have to deal with fluid mess/bleeding, but getting them back in can be tricky.
    Vice grips to break the 2 or 3 allen head bolts on the bottom of the tranny loose if they are still in there. Replace with hex head if you want bolts there.
    Wrong fw bolts = new motor
    Mix up the trans bolts = new motor
    Get 1 part wrong inside the trans = do it all over again.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4kamila6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Lol, it wasnt meant to be.
    Many people have diy'd this successfully, but a healthy dose of fear is always good to keep you in check while doing it
    The jhm dvd was a good call and will walk you through it.

    It is all righty tighty, lefty loosey for the most part, but there be dragons lurking in these evil fkrs.
    Im sure there are more, but here are the ones off the top of my head.
    Dont fk with the heater core!! They can be on there good, but pop them off the back of the motor.
    Leave the driveshaft on the rear diff if you can. That one likes to be a mofo.
    Slave in/out is a damned if you do, damned if you dont thing. I take them out so I dont have to deal with fluid mess/bleeding, but getting them back in can be tricky.
    Vice grips to break the 2 or 3 allen head bolts on the bottom of the tranny loose if they are still in there. Replace with hex head if you want bolts there.
    Wrong fw bolts = new motor
    Mix up the trans bolts = new motor
    Get 1 part wrong inside the trans = do it all over again.
    Now thats a better description

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings ADCS's Avatar
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    Pull them both together, engine/trans. Without a lift it is a major pain dropping the trans. Especially re-aligning it.

    Here is a great step by step video. Personally I would not drop the subframe like he does then again I am working with jack stands not a lift...

    https://youtu.be/9O7l6yLiFqA
    B6 2.7t BEL tuned by Bische
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  14. #14
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    Thanks for the advice so far. If you guys say pull them both together that's what I'm gonna do..
    So far I've watched the engine removal video 3 times and the trans rebuild 3 times all the way through. I'm starting tomorrow after work. Before I get started I was wondering..
    1. Do I need to remove clutch components to complete trans rebuild?
    2. In the engine removal video on youtube (new one) he removes the shifter assembly and drops the subframe. Do you personally take both of these steps? Can I get by without removing those two items?
    3. Does anyone know where I can get a paper version of the bently manual? For the life of me I can only find the cd version..

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings mikeb17's Avatar
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    You're either going to walk away from this with a ton of mechanical know how or you're going to have a torn apart audi. May the gods be with you.

  16. #16
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    Lol agreed

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings achb5's Avatar
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    Ive done it both ways, I think it takes a little longer to pull motor and trans but its far easier overall. Engine pull is very well documented. If your unable to buy/borrow an engine hoist its certainly not overly difficult to just pull out the transmission by itself.

  18. #18
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    A1 rental has them for $16 a day here in town so it's all good. I'll go read up on the engine removal threads. Still wondering about 1& 3 though. Thanks man

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    1- I pull the slave out of the trans and leave it with the car. Rest of it stays with the motor.

    2- I pull the shifter out the top and drop the linkage and everything else with the trans. I dont mess with the subframe.

    3- I dont think the paper versions were ever available for our cars. Would take too many dead tree carcasses.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings rguil's Avatar
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    Honestly, i have done it all the ways, Pulling the motor and trans, pulling just the trans, and pulling just the motor.

    Just pull the motor and trans, trust me on this one. Buy a engine hoist at harbor freight, super cheap

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I think you will be money ahead to find a local Indy shop to do it for you. I have pulled engines and trannys from all sorts of cars everywhere from in shops to back yards. None of them compare to the beating an Audi can dish out. I changed a TIP trans out on a 2.7 A6 and it was a mofo without pulling the engine. The bolts on the back of the engine are almost impossible to reach unless you have three elbows on each arm. This car had over 270,000 on it so the amount of oil and dirt on everything made a bad job even worse. This is just not a job for someone who isn't pretty mechanically inclined.

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    I've pulled the transmission on its own, from a 2003 A6 2.7T. It's not difficult, if it's well thought out.

    I remove the rear subframe bolts, and loosen the fronts, remove the bumper so the front support is free to lift, allowing the tail of the trans to drop.

    The top bolts are more than accessible, as long as the trans is lowered enough. The trick is to get the car as high as possible, and not just the front. The rear needs to be raised too, otherwise installation is a bitch, as the rearward slope causes the weight of the transmission to pull it back out.

    I only pull the motor and trans as a single assembly, if the motor needs any work. But, if your car has done high miles, it's worth pulling both. Those pesky K03's....
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
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  23. #23
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    Y'all are just used to machines that you can hardly do a thing easily w/out them. I and my apprentice(s) have removed Audi A6 C5 quattro trannies, Passat 4mo trannies, from auto-tiptronic to manual, more than I can remember. No lifts, no advanced jack systems. It's the tyranny weight that makes it a tough job. Besides that, nothing much.
    It's a 2 days job for me. Uninstall today, install tomorrow, and I don't try to fix trannies unless its about fitting/replacing a broken external part.
    Also I can't help you do it cos am far away Nigeria, and I guess y'all are in the US.
    Thanks.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deft View Post
    Y'all are just used to machines that you can hardly do a thing easily w/out them. I and my apprentice(s) have removed Audi A6 C5 quattro trannies, Passat 4mo trannies, from auto-tiptronic to manual, more than I can remember. No lifts, no advanced jack systems. It's the tyranny weight that makes it a tough job. Besides that, nothing much.
    It's a 2 days job for me. Uninstall today, install tomorrow, and I don't try to fix trannies unless its about fitting/replacing a broken external part.
    Also I can't help you do it cos am far away Nigeria, and I guess y'all are in the US.
    Thanks.
    Good thing you bump’d this 4 year old thread to say a bunch of dumb shit.

  25. #25
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    @CELison: Racist.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings ReggieNoble's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deft View Post
    @CELison: Racist.
    At what point does he know, or do you know what race you guys are? Ignorance is not accepted here, no matter what region you hail from.

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings JustManson's Avatar
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    Help with transmission removal

    Quote Originally Posted by deft View Post
    @CELison: Racist.
    To Deft: And then you said more dumb shit.

    Go away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings mikeb17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deft View Post
    @CELison: Racist.
    Race has nothing to do with it lol. You’re post was genuinely immature and stupid.

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    Oh man I missed all this lol.

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