Doing your own brake work? Issues solved

[db12]

Every since I started tracking the S4 I found out very quickly that I would go broke having a shop swap out my pads and rotors multiple times per year. Took it upon myself to start doing the work myself. I also soon found out that rear caliper carrier bolts are the biggest pain in the arse to remove with the limited clearance and access. I have read thread after thread of people talking about seized or stripped bolts as the lower bolt in particular is the bane of everyone's existance. All sorts of goofy suggestions (use a heat gun, use the jack to lift the breaker bar etc).

The solution to all of your problems. Buy a 15" Breaker bar and a 18MM hexagonal socket only. Do not try and use a standard 18MM socket. All your problems and cursing will be solved. Only posting this to save anyone else that has undergone the same torture of buy tools and procedural gimmicks to change out their rotors or calipers.

Do not use anything longer or shorter than 15" bar as it will not clear or provide enough leverage, nor use anything but a hexagonal socket.

[sacandagaD]

Every since I started tracking the S4 I found out very quickly that I would go broke having a shop swap out my pads and rotors multiple times per year. Took it upon myself to start doing the work myself. I also soon found out that rear caliper carrier bolts are the biggest pain in the arse to remove with the limited clearance and access. I have read thread after thread of people talking about seized or stripped bolts as the lower bolt in particular is the bane of everyone's existance. All sorts of goofy suggestions (use a heat gun, use the jack to lift the breaker bar etc).

The solution to all of your problems. Buy a 15" Breaker bar and a 18MM hexagonal socket only. Do not try and use a standard 18MM socket. All your problems and cursing will be solved. Only posting this to save anyone else that has undergone the same torture of buy tools and procedural gimmicks to change out their rotors or calipers.

Do not use anything longer or shorter than 15" bar as it will not clear or provide enough leverage, nor use anything but a hexagonal socket.

Agree 100% on a 1/2 drive breaker bar, great for wheel bolts and brake components. I also use impact sockets for the bigger sizes with it instead of regular sockets, since they seem beefier to me and are applying a lot of torque with a bar.

[dean.mohr]

I assume that by a hexagonal socket, you mean a 6 point vs 12 point?

[db12]

Correct...6 point. With the amount of torque needed the 12 points will end up stripping the head of the bolt or the skin off your hand...

[Strikered]

I've had great success with Triple Squares on suspension/brake work. I believe the focus should be more around buying quality components that can withstand the task.

As usual - the right tool for the job makes all the difference!

[sacandagaD]

I've had great success with Triple Squares on suspension/brake work. I believe the focus should be more around buying quality components that can withstand the task.

As usual - the right tool for the job makes all the difference!

^^Truth

One of the few places you should never cheap out on is your tools. Look at them as an investment that will save you a ton of frustration, and maybe even your life and limbs.

[RynoS4]

gonna do my pads, rotors and lines here very soon, thanks for the heads up!

[db12]

gonna do my pads, rotors and lines here very soon, thanks for the heads up!

Also recommend buying small socket wrench specifically for your rotor holding pin (screw). Learned my lesson there as well with my wifes A4...all rotor pins were rusted and seized. You don't want to strip the head on those either....

[infinkc]

Also recommend buying small socket wrench specifically for your rotor holding pin (screw). Learned my lesson there as well with my wifes A4...all rotor pins were rusted and seized. You don't want to strip the head on those either....

What you really need to use is an impact driver to get that screw on and off.

[sacandagaD]

What you really need to use is an impact driver to get that screw on and off.

Yep and then put a dab of anti-seize on them, all they do is hold the rotor in place. No need to be torqued down super tight, as they can't back out while a wheel is bolted to the hub.

[bakedziti]

What you really need to use is an impact driver to get that screw on and off.

Learned this one the hard way, and ended up drilling all 4 of the rotor set screws out and then rethreaded the hub. The torx head provides too much torque for such small screws.

[johnnySV]

@avantagg


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[db12]

Good trick is to give the head of the rotor pin a couple good taps with a hammer first before attempting to loosen. (also anti sieze etc). I have the impact driver above but found the socket works the best. Best amount of torque without stripping the head...

[mr shickadance]

Every since I started tracking the S4 I found out very quickly that I would go broke having a shop swap out my pads and rotors multiple times per year. Took it upon myself to start doing the work myself. I also soon found out that rear caliper carrier bolts are the biggest pain in the arse to remove with the limited clearance and access. I have read thread after thread of people talking about seized or stripped bolts as the lower bolt in particular is the bane of everyone's existance. All sorts of goofy suggestions (use a heat gun, use the jack to lift the breaker bar etc).

The solution to all of your problems. Buy a 15" Breaker bar and a 18MM hexagonal socket only. Do not try and use a standard 18MM socket. All your problems and cursing will be solved. Only posting this to save anyone else that has undergone the same torture of buy tools and procedural gimmicks to change out their rotors or calipers.

Do not use anything longer or shorter than 15" bar as it will not clear or provide enough leverage, nor use anything but a hexagonal socket.

/impact gun + Penetrating oil.

Plus, good excuse to buy an impact gun.

[jpfour]

I also soon found out that rear caliper carrier bolts are the biggest pain in the arse to remove with the limited clearance and access. I have read thread after thread of people talking about seized or stripped bolts as the lower bolt in particular is the bane of everyone's existance. All sorts of goofy suggestions (use a heat gun, use the jack to lift the breaker bar etc.

I found the the rear discs will wiggle out with the carrier still installed if you take the caliper off the floating pins?

[cspcrx]

The correct tools make a job so much easier. I did the fronts and must say the carrier bolts are on their with some serious torque. Getting them off was easy, I have long 1/2 in breaker bars. It was torqueing them after installing the rotors that was a bigger fight. Not a lot of room to lever on, I am a smaller guy at 170lbs, but I got it done.

[sacandagaD]

I found the the rear discs will wiggle out with the carrier still installed if you take the caliper off the floating pins?

Yes, there is no need to remove carrier to replace rotor on rear.

[db12]

On S4's no but A4's require the caliper carrier to be removed

[cspcrx]

Yes, there is no need to remove carrier to replace rotor on rear.

This is good to know. I have only done fronts but assumed the same would be required on the rears.

[blackfunk]

On S4's no but A4's require the caliper carrier to be removed

Good to know for when I finally get around to painting the calipers. Thought I was going to have to remove everything to paint it. Now knowing that I might just tackle it sooner than next summer.

FYI I ended up getting this to finish my front setup. The ratcheting function really helps when working in small spaces.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1