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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Which Subframe Bolt to Loosen to Remove Lower Control Arm Bolt?

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    I'm having a little trouble removing the front passenger rear lower control arm bolt. The fuel lines come in the way, and wiggling them doesn't help. Which subframe bolt(s) do I need to loosen (~1 inch) to get enough clearance (pictures below)? Thanks again







    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
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  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    In my opinion, I'd at least loosen the front bolts a turn or so and turn the rear bolts several turns (enough to get your suspension bolts out.) If you only loosen the rear bolts, the subframe will almost have to be bent/tweaked as it's held firmly by the front bolts. There are four main bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis, but there are brackets you've identified as well. Those are 13mm heads and I'd just take them out entirely.
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    I'm only able to count three discrete bolts--According to this user's thread ( http://www.audiforums.com/forum/diy-...l-arms-173211/ ), he only partially loosened the front 18mm bolt, is that approach with tolerance?
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Jun 10 2013
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    United States

    Is the ball joint separated from the upright? Once it's separated you should be able to twist the control arm and remove the bolt without releasing the subframe.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    That worked for the Driver Side, but on the Passenger side, the Fuel lines and Brake lines come in the way. I released the retaining clip which holds the lines. The ball joint was separated from the upright, I tried angling and wiggling / twisting the rear lower control arm to try to get the bolt out, but the lines are in the way--by a tiny fraction. It appears it will be equally difficult to fit the new bolt through. Almost no flexibility in moving the lines either.

    Quote Originally Posted by glennda5id View Post
    Is the ball joint separated from the upright? Once it's separated you should be able to twist the control arm and remove the bolt without releasing the subframe.
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4kamila6's Avatar
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    I loosen all three, leave a few threads in.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    I'm still stunned by how the placement of those lines are placed there. Still interested to know the reasons why Audi chose to go that route. Lol

    Quote Originally Posted by a4kamila6 View Post
    I loosen all three, leave a few threads in.
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Also, aren't the subframe bolts torque-to-yield, thus one time use only? Would I need to replace them?
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4kamila6's Avatar
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    Technically yes, they are stretch bolts and should be replaced. To each their own.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    I reused mine multiple times with no ill effects

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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Hey everyone, I overtorqued one of the M8x25 bolts while tightening them last night. The head of one of the bolts broke off and I need to use a screw extractor to replace it. Is it still safe to drive with one of the bolts not secured? The main subframe mounting bolt is still intact. Its odd when the two M8x25 bolts aren't really that tight, perhaps its just to protect the subframe from the elements or keep it stabilized against the body of the car?
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    probably dont need an extractor. once the subframe is out of the way you should be able to grab it with your hand and turn it out. the tension or friction keeping the bolt from spinning is on the seat of the head. once the head is broken off the bolt is actually loose. this is of course unless its cross threaded.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Problem is that I can't remove the subframe. A bunch of others things are attached to it and the motor/trans are being supported by it as well. Is that bolt supposed to feel loose after over-torquing it? Is it suppose to wiggle? If that's the case shouldn't it be as simple as grabbing a tool (applying some adhesive to it) and slowly turning the broken bolt counter-clockwise?

    Quote Originally Posted by rgtorque View Post
    probably dont need an extractor. once the subframe is out of the way you should be able to grab it with your hand and turn it out. the tension or friction keeping the bolt from spinning is on the seat of the head. once the head is broken off the bolt is actually loose. this is of course unless its cross threaded.
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    So you broke on of the 13mm bolts on that bracket? Just take out the other 13mm, loosen the 18mm main subframe bolt enough to swing the bracket out if the way.

    From there you should have all the space you need to drill/tap/extract the body of the bolt. No need to overthink it

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    RIP:
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll definitely look into that, I should be able to get a pair of vise grips and just loosen once the shield is out of the way-- no need to drill and tap it seems. I would assume part of that bolt is still sticking out (without the head of course). It didn't take much torque to overtorque.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    So you broke on of the 13mm bolts on that bracket? Just take out the other 13mm, loosen the 18mm main subframe bolt enough to swing the bracket out if the way.

    From there you should have all the space you need to drill/tap/extract the body of the bolt. No need to overthink it

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

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