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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Oct 03 2016
    AZ Member #
    382396
    Location
    Portland, OR

    Suggestions on how to remove rounded slave cylinder bolt?

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    Installed a new slave cylinder, but when I went to bleed it the plastic hex head bleed screw rounded the first time I tightened it down. I think it needs a few more pump-and-bleeds, but the more I tried to get it off the rounder it became. It's now basically a circle. Access is none to minimal. I tried to get some channel locks on it, which I can, but there's no room to twist it. Bolt off sockets did not work since it's plastic and not metal. I have another bleed screw from a broken slave cylinder I can use, but I can't get the current one off.

    Anyone have any suggestions that don't involve removing the downpipe and/or dropping the subframe? Pretty much everything is bolted back up to the car, and I'd like to remove as little as possible, obviously. I dropped the axle at the transmission for some more access, but that's about it.

    Thanks for any suggestions. I know this is a common problem, and I think I just don't have the right tool to get at that area. Wondering what other people have done to manipulate a rounded off plastic bleed nut.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings themadscientist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 10 2010
    AZ Member #
    65488
    Location
    Las Vegas

    External extractor.

    And stop using twelve point sockets.
    2005 A4 Avant 1.8t QTM

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Oct 03 2016
    AZ Member #
    382396
    Location
    Portland, OR

    Could you elaborate on what you mean by an external extractor? I initially tried to get it off with a 6 point 9mm socket. It rounded because of lack off access causing the socket to slip. Once it was a little rounded, subsequent attempts just made it worse. I then tried a 12 point socket, then an E socket, then a bolt extractor (designed to grind into the metal and bite), but none worked because it was plastic.

    My question is what kind of tool can I use to get in there with the limited access available? Normally I would just drill it, but that's obviously not an option. I just need to break it free enough to spin it with my fingers.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 05 2009
    AZ Member #
    50303
    Location
    Denver

    You say channel locks but have you tried vice grips? They have pretty small ones. But if everything you've tried has been futile up until this point I think it's time to reassess the situation.

    Time vs effort quotient is too large here. Not enough reward for the effort involved. Sometimes there are no shortcuts and you need to bite the bullet and pull stuff back apart.

    At least this isn't a gravy gone bad customer pay job. Or is it...

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 22 2013
    AZ Member #
    115697
    My Garage
    2001 A4 Avant 1.8t GT2871r 630cc ev14
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV

    How about the easy out meant for that. It looks like a 10 or 13 mm socket but curved on the inside

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    Just drive the dang thing, they bleed themselves.

    I have only seen 1 that didnt, and that was because somebody had the slave line wrapped around the p steer line somehow.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  7. #7
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Oct 03 2016
    AZ Member #
    382396
    Location
    Portland, OR

    So I picked up a set of micro vice grips at harbor freight. I was able to go in from the top and get a bite on the nut, but ended up just shearing the nipple off. I couldn't get the remaining stub of the hex nut to turn despite biting it with the grips. It just sheared the plastic. It was in there too tight. I am taking the above advice and just driving it. I think I got most of the air on the first bleed attempt (the one where I, ah, overtightened the nut before releasing the pedal). Hopefully it will function ok, otherwise I am going to have to remove the slave completely.

    FYI, I found through doing this that it is MUCH easier to bleed from above. Just remove the coolant reservoir and put your hand right down along the dp heatshield and you'll feel the slave and have enough room to get a 9mm wrench on the bleeder. I don't know why I've always done this from below. Perhaps because it's easier from below when the car's in the air. But for anyone else reading this, remember the nut is plastic and it takes very little to round it. Once it starts to round, you're done. So don't overtighten it. Once it's tight enough so that the fluid isn't coming out, you're good.

    Thanks guys

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    Ya, I think that 9mm thing is why they get stripped so often. I could see people starting out with the common 10mm and rounding them.

    If you ever get it apart, check out how the oring seals in there. It isnt like a brake bleeder and tightening with your fingers is prob good enough. Dont need to crank them down.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

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