Don't buy the same TIP

[jacobsen]

Two years ago I installed the same call turbo inlet pipe. After doing so I had to continuously retighten it on the compressor housing of the ko4 turbo. What an annoying piece of s***. I would like to point out that where the turbo inlet pipe attaches to the compressor housing is bulbous. This of course meaning that the surface that the band clamp you will need to use to attach it to the turbo is not flat or symmetrical. So if you attempt to clamp it down with a hose clamp it will want to move. Also it did not stand up to the test of time very well, it has become softer than you think it should. On the same call the section that goes over the turbo compressor housing is very short as well. This short run also adds to the difficulty in attaching this thing properly.


I replaced the samco with a forge. The forge had a longer section to attach to the turbo which was not bulbous and was symmetrical. Which made it very easy to attach to the compressor housing. This has fixed a low boost code I've been getting off and on for two years.


The next day


https://youtu.be/2V5b7pVIMzo

[jacobsen]

Two years ago I installed the same call turbo inlet pipe. After doing so I had to continuously retighten it on the compressor housing of the ko4 turbo. What an annoying piece of s***. I would like to point out that where the turbo inlet pipe attaches to the compressor housing is bulbous. This of course meaning that the surface that the band clamp you will need to use to attach it to the turbo is not flat or symmetrical. So if you attempt to clamp it down with a hose clamp it will want to move. Also it did not stand up to the test of time very well, it has become softer than you think it should. On the same call the section that goes over the turbo compressor housing is very short as well. This short run also adds to the difficulty in attaching this thing properly.


I replaced the samco with a forge. The forge had a longer section to attach to the turbo which was not bulbous and was symmetrical. Which made it very easy to attach to the compressor housing. This has fixed a low boost code I've been getting off and on for two years.


The next day


https://youtu.be/2V5b7pVIMzo

Can someone rename my title for me. I tried to edit it but it's not an option. It should say samco not same.

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[old guy]

I'll just leave this here for you: Clicky click®

[jacobsen]

Haha

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[old guy]

You make an interesting observation. When i installed my Forge TIP I ended up cutting around 1/2"→3/4"" off of the connection to the turbo inlet. The extended length caused the TIP to press hard against the back of the headlight and headlight mounting plate.

I suspect your problem with the TIP popping off has more to do with your wide "T" clamp than the length of the hose. The K03 turbo inlet flange is pretty short and when you use a wide clamp more of the clamp is on the outside of the flange than the inside of the flange and consequently it pops off. I went with the OEM clamp and problem solved.

Even when I went with the FT 3" TIP I had the same problem and again going to the OEM narrower clamp solved the problem. You can use the wide clamp on the turbo outlet but not the turbo inlet.

[hightime80]

Enlighten me why an aftermarket tip is better than a factory one. I aint got no k04 or frankenturbo so perhaps its a moot point on an almost stock car.

[jacobsen]

You make an interesting observation. When i installed my Forge TIP I ended up cutting around 1/2"→3/4"" off of the connection to the turbo inlet. The extended length caused the TIP to press hard against the back of the headlight and headlight mounting plate.

I suspect your problem with the TIP popping off has more to do with your wide "T" clamp than the length of the hose. The K03 turbo inlet flange is pretty short and when you use a wide clamp more of the clamp is on the outside of the flange than the inside of the flange and consequently it pops off. I went with the OEM clamp and problem solved.

Even when I went with the FT 3" TIP I had the same problem and again going to the OEM narrower clamp solved the problem. You can use the wide clamp on the turbo outlet but not the turbo inlet.

I was worried that the new Forge was going to do exactly what you say. But it's several inches away from the back of the head light area. Perhaps they made a modification to the design you had. Your observation about the hose clamp is pretty accurate with exception. I tried 3 different kinds clamps. I begin to suspect that I was getting back pressure from the R1 diverter valve having failed. Eventually I realized that the design of the samco was the reason it was backing off. I really didn't want to jump to that conclusion prematurely. But in the end giving the samco every opportunity and credit because I didn't want to spend money on another part. Switching to the forge solved the issue instantly.

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[old guy]

Enlighten me why an aftermarket tip is better than a factory one. I aint got no k04 or frankenturbo so perhaps its a moot point on an almost stock car.

For a stock or stage 1 tune it's pretty much a moot point.

[jacobsen]

Enlighten me why an aftermarket tip is better than a factory one. I aint got no k04 or frankenturbo so perhaps its a moot point on an almost stock car.

The turbo inlet pipe is always under vacuum when the motor is running. With the part that is literally living under vacuum constantly it's important to have a stiff structure so that any time you apply throttle and the air increases pressure inside the structure it doesn't collapse under the sucking pull of the turbo. Yes obviously for a stage one it's not really worth the money. This one cost 144 bucks at ECS. The more boost you make with your turbo the stiffer the intake piping should be. Some kits are metal.

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[teg2audi]

your headlight switch has alopecia

[jacobsen]

your headlight switch has alopecia

Lol it has character

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[luketimms]

I never regret getting forge silicone tips, they really are worth the extra ££$$

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[Wet0willy01]

I aint got no k04 or frankenturbo

Sigh

[MacFady]

< $4, treat yourself. If you want one with "auto" though your going to have to splurge at $5.

[16vCorey]

I'll just leave this here for you: Clicky click®

You beat me to it! Though I was going to suggest this route.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEADLIGHT-FO...BWQVEV&vxp=mtr

*EDIT* Then I didn't read the whole thread and the person above me suggested the EXACT one. I guess I'm just late to the game.

[16vCorey]

PS, I have an APR, and while I've never had any problems with anything coming loose, it does push against the inside lower tab of the headlight pretty hard. Hard enough that it's kind of a pain to get the headlight seated right if you have to take it out for anything.

[Furly]

Use hairspray and t-bolt clamps.

Problem solved.

I still lulz when i see people using cheap shit worm clamps instead of t-bolt.

[hightime80]

Sigh

Kids now a days does not know grammer haha.
I do it on purpose I really do know better Willy😝

[MetalMan]

Use hairspray and t-bolt clamps.

Problem solved.

I still lulz when i see people using cheap shit worm clamps instead of t-bolt.

I went from "cheap shit worm clamps" to T-bolt, then to higher quality worm clamps... the kind with rolled edges, smooth bore. Because they're less narrow than T-bolt they often allow things to seal better.

[jacobsen]

I tried them all, don't buy the samco. Trust me on this one.

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[Furly]

I have a samco on my TB side and running 26psi on a big turbo and it has never popped off.

[jacobsen]

I have a samco on my TB side and running 26psi on a big turbo and it has never popped off.

Throttle body side? Me too but their tip for k04 is worthless

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