How to replace the A4/A5 stock dash speakers?

[jackstone]

I've read many audio-related thread for the B8 platform, but nobody clearly explain how to remove and replace the stock dash speaker found in a B&0 B8 A4/A5.

I have an A5 with non-B&O system and it sound worst than my friend's Pontiac Sunfire stock audio system.

I have unplugged the center channel that sound harshing and break the stereo imaging, it improved the overall sound quality a bit but now it lack mids...

I've tried to replace the dash tweeters with 3.5" Kicker coaxial speakers, but there is no way to fit them in there...

So, I've bought some used 3" stock B&O speakers from an S5. But I still can fit them in the hole... why? They are stock speaker for a similar car than mine but why I can't fit them here? Do we have to remove the WHOLE dash assembly to replace those speakers? I saw many people that was able to successfully replace their dash speaker with aftermarket model, can some PLEASE post a step by step procedure for fitting new speaker in dash?

I have already fitted a JL amp and 12" sub on the stock system and it helped improve the bass, My idea is now to put the B&O and see if they improve the mids, then I will add some Pioneer surface mounted tweeters on the dash to take care of the highs... Really not sure how it will sound but the car is a new lease so I can't do much mods, but I like this car and I just want to improve the sound system a bit...

Please help...

[Gunnark100]

I've read many audio-related thread for the B8 platform, but nobody clearly explain how to remove and replace the stock dash speaker found in a B&0 B8 A4/A5.

I have an A5 with non-B&O system and it sound worst than my friend's Pontiac Sunfire stock audio system.

I have unplugged the center channel that sound harshing and break the stereo imaging, it improved the overall sound quality a bit but now it lack mids...

I've tried to replace the dash tweeters with 3.5" Kicker coaxial speakers, but there is no way to fit them in there...

So, I've bought some used 3" stock B&O speakers from an S5. But I still can fit them in the hole... why? They are stock speaker for a similar car than mine but why I can't fit them here? Do we have to remove the WHOLE dash assembly to replace those speakers? I saw many people that was able to successfully replace their dash speaker with aftermarket model, can some PLEASE post a step by step procedure for fitting new speaker in dash?
Please help...

No need remove dash assembly, oem tweeter must fit back on the same angle!(picture is how to remove, install in reverse order)
Click on picture:

[jackstone]

Nope... that does not work... I can't still fit the speaker in the dash and I don't know why... I can't lift the windshield side enough to slip the speaker at his place... that's does not make sense since the dash hole should be the same for all A5...

[pachilla]

The B&Os were probably pre-installed into the dash before the dash goes into the car.

In China where A4L is a very popular executive sedan, you can buy these aftermarket kit for about 150 USD that drops right in, plug & play.



But they are not motorized.

[jackstone]

I saw those... They are basically a clone of the B&O tweeters from the A6 but I can't find any review to tell if they sound good or not. for $150 I prefer to know it this is a good product before buying... anyway, they are still just tweeters and the goal is to enhance the mids. Highs are easy to enhance using surface mount tweeters pods like the Pioneer Carrozzeria.

If the OEM B&O was installed before dash assembly from factory, I am wondering how the people in this forum managed to fit aftermarket speakers like the Audisson, Vifa or Dayton driver in the stock location, they are all bigger than the B&O...

[Gunnark100]

B/O using same speaker regardless of the model- 8T0 035 416. And install procedure is the same for each sound system or model(A4,S4,A5,S5).

[jackstone]

Yes I know what the service manual says, but have you really tried to replace those speakers? I've worked hard for a whole hour trying to fit the passenger side speaker in the dash, it just can't fit into the hole because I can't tilt it enough for it to slide in the spot, the windshield angle prevent tilting enough... I use this exact part number: 8T0 035 416.

I really hope someone that actually has replaced those speaker to see this thread and share the method he used...

[A4x]

I've fit the Dayton RS75s in there without much issue. I had to trim the mounting plates I used near the windshield, so that I could angle the speaker a bit when dropping it in. If I didnt trim the mounting plate, then the speaker would not drop in because the windshield was in the way.

What mounting plates are you using? Did you use them? Try triming it near the windshield side to give yourself more room to angle the speaker when dropping it in. Or maybe your plate is too thick?

[jackstone]

I've fit the Dayton RS75s in there without much issue. I had to trim the mounting plates I used near the windshield, so that I could angle the speaker a bit when dropping it in. If I didnt trim the mounting plate, then the speaker would not drop in because the windshield was in the way.

What mounting plates are you using? Did you use them? Try triming it near the windshield side to give yourself more room to angle the speaker when dropping it in. Or maybe your plate is too thick?

I did not use any mount plate, thinking the stock speaker will fit there without issue... As I said, this care is a lease so I can't do much mods... I don't know what do you mean by "Mount Plate".

Anyway, I've tried too hard on this and I just can't fit the stock B&O in there, don't know why... So I take a look at those right now:

http://cdtaudio.com/accentfills/af25602al.php

This is a 2" mid-tweeter that cover 100hz up to 20khz, that would help enhancing the mids and highs without the need of two separate drivers and a 2" driver should fit in there, if not, CDT offer a pod version of the same speakers, I don't car to see pods on the dash in they sound good. Anyone tried CDT Audio product? They're not cheap but there offer pretty unique products...

[A4x]

I did not use any mount plate, thinking the stock speaker will fit there without issue... As I said, this care is a lease so I can't do much mods... I don't know what do you mean by "Mount Plate".

Anyway, I've tried too hard on this and I just can't fit the stock B&O in there, don't know why... So I take a look at those right now:

http://cdtaudio.com/accentfills/af25602al.php

This is a 2" mid-tweeter that cover 100hz up to 20khz, that would help enhancing the mids and highs without the need of two separate drivers and a 2" driver should fit in there, if not, CDT offer a pod version of the same speakers, I don't car to see pods on the dash in they sound good. Anyone tried CDT Audio product? They're not cheap but there offer pretty unique products...

I don't think you want a little 2" speaker playing down to 100 Hz. That's too low.

Your door speaker is an 8" playing low all the way up to ~4000 Hz. The dash tweeter takes over from there. If you add a speaker in the dash that will play down low, say 500 Hz, you're going to have double output from 500 Hz - 4000 Hz and your music will sound very harsh and bright. Whatever you put in the dash, you should keep the 10uf cap inline so that it blocks the frequencies below 4000 Hz. Other option is to low-pass the door woofer.

By mount plate, I mean the adapter that the speaker will attach to, which then goes into the dash and attaches to the car. THe stock tweeters in the dash are mounted to a plastic plate. If you replace them, you need a similar plate to hold your speakers/secure them to the car.

[jackstone]

I don't think you want a little 2" speaker playing down to 100 Hz. That's too low.

Your door speaker is an 8" playing low all the way up to ~4000 Hz. The dash tweeter takes over from there. If you add a speaker in the dash that will play down low, say 500 Hz, you're going to have double output from 500 Hz - 4000 Hz and your music will sound very harsh and bright. Whatever you put in the dash, you should keep the 10uf cap inline so that it blocks the frequencies below 4000 Hz. Other option is to low-pass the door woofer.

By mount plate, I mean the adapter that the speaker will attach to, which then goes into the dash and attaches to the car. THe stock tweeters in the dash are mounted to a plastic plate. If you replace them, you need a similar plate to hold your speakers/secure them to the car.

I know the door speaker is 8", and that is the main cause of the lack of mids. A 6.5" better manage the higher mids arround 3000-4000hz and the tweeter can take over the higher frequencies from there, a 8" does not play so well at those frequencies, it begin losing response at about 1500hz, it's clearly hearable and i got the same issue with tons of other two-way 8" speaker system, and no tweeter are good at 1500-2000hz.

I do not want the 2" to play as low as 100hz, it comes in a kit that allow high-pass at different frequency to match the woofer already in place, i think 600hz will be fine but it can be fine tuned so i guess it will be possible to acheive something that will sound OK.

As for the plate, the stock b&o i've bought are... stock , so they don't need any plate to install and they already got the two screw holes that perfectly match the dash hole location... But i can't manage to slip it here...

[A4x]

I know the door speaker is 8", and that is the main cause of the lack of mids. A 6.5" better manage the higher mids arround 3000-4000hz and the tweeter can take over the higher frequencies from there, a 8" does not play so well at those frequencies, it begin losing response at about 1500hz, it's clearly hearable and i got the same issue with tons of other two-way 8" speaker system, and no tweeter are good at 1500-2000hz.

I do not want the 2" to play as low as 100hz, it comes in a kit that allow high-pass at different frequency to match the woofer already in place, i think 600hz will be fine but it can be fine tuned so i guess it will be possible to acheive something that will sound OK.

As for the plate, the stock b&o i've bought are... stock , so they don't need any plate to install and they already got the two screw holes that perfectly match the dash hole location... But i can't manage to slip it here...

Oh, I have not ever seen the B&O midrange for the dash. I guess you should go with some other 3" midrange that can fit in there (you will need to make your own mounting plate). Like I said, the Dayton RS75 fit well for me.

I replaced my door woofers with Rockford Fosgate 6.5", they are listed at 5-60 W RMS. I'm afraid the stock amp cannot push them hard enough. I lost a lot of low end volume by installing these. I will try to go back to the stock 8" woofer. I low-passed the 6.5" at 800 Hz, used a 800Hz-5000 Hz bandpass for the Dayton 3" in the dash, and 5000 Hz high pass for 1" Rockford tweeters. I have a very bright setup now and lacking low end, probably because the 6.5" are not being driven hard enough by the amp.

I also have a 10" JL sub in the trunk which is great, but I need to fix this front staging....ideas?

[jackstone]

Oh, I have not ever seen the B&O midrange for the dash. I guess you should go with some other 3" midrange that can fit in there (you will need to make your own mounting plate). Like I said, the Dayton RS75 fit well for me.

I replaced my door woofers with Rockford Fosgate 6.5", they are listed at 5-60 W RMS. I'm afraid the stock amp cannot push them hard enough. I lost a lot of low end volume by installing these. I will try to go back to the stock 8" woofer. I low-passed the 6.5" at 800 Hz, used a 800Hz-5000 Hz bandpass for the Dayton 3" in the dash, and 5000 Hz high pass for 1" Rockford tweeters. I have a very bright setup now and lacking low end, probably because the 6.5" are not being driven hard enough by the amp.

I also have a 10" JL sub in the trunk which is great, but I need to fix this front staging....ideas?

From my personal experience with car audio, when you replace the door speaker in modern car you always break the sealed enclosure that the OEM speaker has. Most OEM speaker has a plastic frame in the front that match perfectly the door cover, thus making all the output from the front of the speaker to reach the interior of the car, and all the back to be isolated in the door enclosure, this is never possible to realize with aftermarket speaker because we can't fit the front of the speaker flush to the door panel. So the back wave of the speaker will be cancelled by the front wave, thus preventing producing bass. I think you could use a backbox to prevent this but you will not get good bass from that because 6.5" car speaker are designed to work free air. People are wrongly thinking they only have to seal the speaker from the mounting ring, this is not enough because the door panel in part of the door enclosure, not just the door frame. Using a more powerful amp will only make the speaker cone to move a bit more but will not reinforce the bass. With aftermarket in the door, you absolutely need to use a 80-100hz hi-pass cut-off and rely on your sub for the bass.

Also, is your Rockford Fosgate a matching component set? I would never break a matching component set with a speaker from another brand. With a 6.5 in the door, you do not need the Dayton in the dash, just use the Rockford tweeter and the crossover that comes with the kit and I'm sure it will sound better. For best imaging, I do prefer component set with lower crossover frequency around 2500-3000hz, but this is specific to the kit you buy and to your listening preference. Also with stock amp, use lower-end component speakers with higher sensibility (90+db). Hi-end stuff always require powerful amp to deliver output and not always sound better than lower end speakers depending of what you listen and how far you go with you audio install.

I also use a JL sub in the trunk, connected to a small JL HX-series amp that support speaker level input and auto-on/off from signal sensing, piece of cake to install, no remote cable, no LOC adapter needed, it worked out of the box.