Overflowing reservoir tank

[pablolizarraga]

So I got a hi coolant temp warning even though temp gage never went past next line above middle line. Pulled over and just before turning car off I got an oil pressure warning.

Opened the hood and found that the lower hose from reservoir tank popped off. I had just replaced radiator about 2 weeks ago, so I thought that combined w/ 114 degree weather, it got hot enough that it popped off hose because I forgot to tighten it down.

So after refilling reservoir and running a/c on HI for about 1 min, bubbles come up. A few seconds later after an increase in bubbling, it vomits the coolant out the top. When I don't run the heater and I idle engine it takes about 1 min longer before it bubbles and a few seconds later it vomits again. Got towed and tried it again about an hour later and it did the same thing.

Ive refilled coolant a number of times and I've never seen water come out like that from coolant tank during purging process.

I checked oil dipstick and oil cap and oil seems fine. Car turns on, idles fine, and I don't hear any odd noises other than more burping noises from exhaust.

I've changed the coolant before and I haven't ever seen car do this before.

Is this normal? Any suggestions?



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[jacobsen]

Yes this is normal. The way the cooling system works this is normal. Fill it as best you can and don't try to bleed the system while the motor is hot. You want to bleed the system when the motor is completely cold.

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[jacobsen]

With the reservoir filled as much as possible and the motor as cold as possible. Simply open the hard pipe bleeder screw and let the air Escape. When a steady stream of solid coolant comes out and you're satisfied no more air will come out close it. You're done with that bleeder for now. Now do the same thing on the top heater core hose hole. When that one stops or if it doesn't spit air you're done with that one for now.

You want to do this at least once a day for a week to both bleeders. You probably don't need to that much. But you will be surprised. Doing this once a day for a week will give you the assuredness that you did get all of the air out, that your heat will definitely work best that it can and your motor will be cool as a cucumber. A heavy all-wheel-drive cucumber. With sauerkraut on top.

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[diagnosticator]

With the cooling system completely cooled down to outside temperature, fill the expansion tank and let the system fill slowly by gravity. It will take about an hour or so for the system to fill with coolant completely and purge all the air out naturally. With the cap removed, this will take awhile, refill the tank up to the MAX mark as needed until the level in the tank stops falling,. You have to allow enough time for the coolant to fill the system completely by natural gravity fill. Also remove the bleeder screw in the upper coolant pipe, until coolant flows out of the bleeder screw hole then replace the bleed screw. After this point allow the system to fill taking the time needed to purge all the air out and the coolant level will stop falling before replacing the tank cap and drive the car.

[pablolizarraga]

Thanks for the much appreciated tips and the humor you guys! I've been picturing warped heads leaking gases into coolant system.

Come to think about it, the times I've re-filled the coolant was at least 10hrs after engine had last been running. I'm really hoping this is really due to me forgetting to tighten that expansion tank hose clamp.
Will follow your recommendations after work tomorrow and report back. Already squirted WD-40 on coolant pipe bleeder because it wouldn't budge last time I tried to turn it.
To be clear, the bleeding is done prior to idling the engine?


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[jacobsen]

Thanks for the much appreciated tips and the humor you guys! I've been picturing warped heads leaking gases into coolant system.

Come to think about it, the times I've re-filled the coolant was at least 10hrs after engine had last been running. I'm really hoping this is really due to me forgetting to tighten that expansion tank hose clamp.
Will follow your recommendations after work tomorrow and report back. Already squirted WD-40 on coolant pipe bleeder because it wouldn't budge last time I tried to turn it.
To be clear, the bleeding is done prior to idling the engine?


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The OEM coolant has leak sealer in it and it can make connections difficult to get apart. Yes you want your motor to be as cold as possible, running the motor has no bearing other than messing the whole thing up. bleed it when it's completely cold and has not been run.

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[diagnosticator]

Thanks for the much appreciated tips and the humor you guys! I've been picturing warped heads leaking gases into coolant system.

Come to think about it, the times I've re-filled the coolant was at least 10hrs after engine had last been running. I'm really hoping this is really due to me forgetting to tighten that expansion tank hose clamp.
Will follow your recommendations after work tomorrow and report back. Already squirted WD-40 on coolant pipe bleeder because it wouldn't budge last time I tried to turn it.
To be clear, the bleeding is done prior to idling the engine?


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Yes, all bleeding is done before running the engine.

[MacFady]

Already squirted WD-40 on coolant pipe bleeder because it wouldn't budge last time I tried to turn it.

Alternatively you can leave that bleeder screw alone, undo the one philips head screw holding the expansion tank in place and elevate the tank. I just set it up a little high and go through the usual process otherwise. I've avoided the bleeder screw (mines plastic) and used this method, has always worked on the first attempt.

[pablolizarraga]

Thanks to everyone for their expertise! I'm back on the road and temp did not budge from middle line despite 45 min drive in 95 degree plus weather. Had to put car in service position to undo lower radiator hose because although the purge valve in that hose would rotate, no coolant would come out. Are you suppose to rotate and pull? I kind of tried it, but did not want to risk having to buy yet another $100 hose.

I'm adding diagram of the two bleeding points as I wasn't sure where the 2nd one was and in case anybody needs it. Thanks again!



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[jacobsen]

Thanks to everyone for their expertise! I'm back on the road and temp did not budge from middle line despite 45 min drive in 95 degree plus weather. Had to put car in service position to undo lower radiator hose because although the purge valve in that hose would rotate, no coolant would come out. Are you suppose to rotate and pull? I kind of tried it, but did not want to risk having to buy yet another $100 hose.

I'm adding diagram of the two bleeding points as I wasn't sure where the 2nd one was and in case anybody needs it. Thanks again!



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The bleed screw is supposed to rotate upwards as you unscrew it. If you are backing out the bleed screw and it did not release coolant or air your bleed screw may either need to be backed out further or it may be stripped. You should not have to unscrew the bleeder and pull up at the same time. You may have to revisit this issue if your getting air into your cooling system from a leak in that bleeder screw being stripped. If you can imagine pouring hot coffee into a thermos and waiting a for it to cool off in the thermos you get suction from the hot coffee cooling off in the enclosed container. The same expansion and contraction is what your cooling system does. The top heater core hose has a hole in it and that bleeder can be hard to get at because the hose can be sort of glued to the pipe it connects to. You have to kind of work it off. Is your bleeder screw metal or plastic?

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[pablolizarraga]

The bleed screw is supposed to rotate upwards as you unscrew it.

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My bad, I meant the drain plug (#2) on the lower radiator hose would turn but no coolant would come out. I think it fully rotated twice and nothing came out.


The bleed screw on the pipe is metal. That worked just as you guys described.


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[jacobsen]

My bad, I meant the drain plug (#2) on the lower radiator hose would turn but no coolant would come out. I think it fully rotated twice and nothing came out.


The bleed screw on the pipe is metal. That worked just as you guys described.


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Oh yeah don't monkey with that thing. Those things never work. It's supposed to be a single turn and you pull back but I think the leak sealer additive in the coolant probably gums that thing up so it doesn't work.

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[pablolizarraga]

Oh yeah don't monkey with that thing. Those things never work.

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If that drain plug had worked, it would have shaved off, oh about... 2hrs from this procedure. Although I've gotten much faster at putting the car in service position, the electrical connections to headlights and bumper have their own personality and unplug when they feel like it and radiator hoses only come off after at least 15 minutes of trying to strike that perfect balance between finesse and brut force.

I've only done shade tree mechanics on 1965/6 Mustangs, but did Audi try patent every possible configuration by which to attach wires/hoses within one model year?


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[jacobsen]

If that drain plug had worked, it would have shaved off, oh about... 2hrs from this procedure. Although I've gotten much faster at putting the car in service position, the electrical connections to headlights and bumper have their own personality and unplug when they feel like it and radiator hoses only come off after at least 15 minutes of trying to strike that perfect balance between finesse and brut force.

I've only done shade tree mechanics on 1965/6 Mustangs, but did Audi try patent every possible configuration by which to attach wires/hoses within one model year?


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I know exactly how you feel. I have removed every connection on this car and serviced just about everything except the head gasket. I don't know what they're thinking with this compressed glass strand fiber coolant connections. AKA Plastics... All the Plastics fail and will fill quickly too at that. I replace the rear quick disconnect coupler at the coolant flange because it was leaking. Or more accurately I accidentally bumped it when I was removing the transmission to do the clutch and the thing drained all of the coolant on the back of my neck. So I replaced it and wouldn't you know the hose clamp I used actually squished the plastic coupler and it leaked again. The second time I replaced it I didn't tighten the clamp so much. Audi is definitely not one of those cars you can simply live with and be just fine. I have a 2001 Galant which is needed no maintenance ever accepted belts, fluids and a cam sensor. And I think it's used 2 batteries.

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[pablolizarraga]

I have a 2001 Galant which is needed no maintenance ever accepted belts, fluids and a cam sensor. And I think it's used 2 batteries.

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My wife has a 2003 Jeep Liberty and I've only had to replace radiator and the alternator (which only took as long as it did to drive back and forth to neighborhood auto parts). She may have even driven back and forth from AZ with half oil capacity. That thing won't die no matter how badly I neglect it.


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[jacobsen]

My wife has a 2003 Jeep Liberty and I've only had to replace radiator and the alternator (which only took as long as it did to drive back and forth to neighborhood auto parts). She may have even driven back and forth from AZ with half oil capacity. That thing won't die no matter how badly I neglect it.


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Save it for when the Terminators take over.

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[pablolizarraga]

So... for future reference, there's a secret combination lock by which to undo the drain plug?



I'm not messing w/ it though cuz I'm not seeing any evidence of leaking and I'm off 90 degrees times whatever from where it originally was positioned.


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