DIY: Spherical Shift Linkage Bearing

[mauromj]

Ever since I swapped a 2.7t/01E into my b6, I was never happy with how loose the shifter was. Looking at the options out there (erhm *option*), I figured would come up with my own solution that was much cheaper.

Heres what your going to need to complete this:

Supplies:
1x - QA1 MIB10 Spherical Bearing (1.312" OD, 0.625" ID, 0.562" width)
2x - 0.625" OD, 0.3125" ID, 0.75" long spacers
2x - 0.3125" ID washers
1x - 5/16 2.5" long bolt
1x - 5/16 Nut
1x - Tube of red threadlock



Tools:
Hammer
Grinder with cutoff wheel and/or grinding disk
Vice grips
Drill with 5/16" bit
1/2" end wrench and socket/ratchet
Center punch or marker


Other/Optional:
Beer of your choosing
One hour of your time (Assuming transmission is out)

Begin by getting your linkage completely removed from your transmission. This is the portion we will be performing surgery on.


Remove the rubber boot. See those bent down tabs? We want to get those bent out of the way so we can remove the old ball joint assembly.


The easiest way I found to do this, was to use a pair of vice grips. Angle the vice grips, and you should be able to bend them up no problem.


Once you get all 3 tabs bent out of the way, the old joint will slip right out.


Grab your new bearing from QA1 and liberally apply red thread lock around the outside circumference; this will help secure the bearing into its new permanent home.


Slide the bearing and old washer into the linkage end. Once in, grab your ball pein hammer and bend the tabs back in to hold the bearing. As you can see, I bent the whole outside circumference in. I would recommend doing this, as you will never have to worry about the bearing coming loose.


Now that the bearing is in, we are going to want to address the other portion of the linkage (the one with the ball welded to it). Take a center punch (or marker), and mark where the center of the ball pivot is (eyeballing it is fine). This is where we are going to drill a hole into.


Cut off the old ball with a grinder and smooth the surface flat.


You can now drill a hole at the mark you made.

The following images illustrate how you will assemble your new linkage end.






Now, slide on the piece you just drilled a hole through and assemble it!


Last step (this is important).

Bask in the glory that you not only just saved $150+, but also the fact that you came up with your own fix to your clapped out linkage. Relax and drink a beer. You deserve it.

[mauromj]

Something else to note:

The cross rods on these introduce lots of slop as well. This is not an easy part to make, as it requires metal fab (welding/bending). I picked up the HD cross rod from JHM for ~$125 and have been very happy with it.

[rollerton]

Gotta say....this is awesome. Hundred +1's upvotes. +100 more since my trans is out and just sitting there begging for this fix.

[christianb5s4]

How does this feel compared to the JHM option? Does the lack of a counter weight like the JHM version affect effort of throw at all?

[mauromj]

How does this feel compared to the JHM option? Does the lack of a counter weight like the JHM version affect effort of throw at all?

I have not tried the JHM stuff (other than the cross bar). Which part of their kit is weighted? Are you talking about the short throw shifter?

[Scotty@Advanced]

The later model shift ball is weighted. Also a replacement factory socket makes a world of difference and is dirt cheap.

[mauromj]

I have a short shifter kit with a billet steel knob. The added weight of the knob definitely helps. I am curious how it will feel after performing this.


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[mauromj]

The later model shift ball is weighted. Also a replacement factory socket makes a world of difference and is dirt cheap.

This was only $20. I like doing stuff like this rather than replacing with oem parts. These parts should live through 100 different cars, rather than the oem option wearing out in another < 100k miles.


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[wbrunner23]

Awesome! It's so gratifying when you can fix/upgrade something on the cheap yourself.

I'm interested in how this holds up once installed and if there will be any binding or usability issues once installed in place. It's great that you were able to retain the stock dust boot.

Iirc, the JHM linkage can bind if not installed correctly or something - yours looks to be less bulky so hopefully wont have a similar issue.

[christianb5s4]

I have not tried the JHM stuff (other than the cross bar). Which part of their kit is weighted? Are you talking about the short throw shifter?

The solid linkage is the part that is weighted to offset the additional effort from the rest of the kit.

[Steve Bassen]

Weighted linkage arm part# is 8D0711181C, as opposed to 8D0711181, FYI. If you're ordering that, make sure to call and verify that you're getting the C revision.

[getslideways]

Cool beans. I love a good DIY. Thanks OP

[mauromj]

Weighted linkage arm part# is 8D0711181C, as opposed to 8D0711181, FYI. If you're ordering that, make sure to call and verify that you're getting the C revision.

Interesting. I never knew an oem weighted version existed! I might just weld up a weight on mine rather than ordering one up!


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[Charles.waite]

Any of you guys know if this will work on a late-b6/b7 02x??

This is a great DIY man!

[Charles.waite]

Any of you guys know if this will work on a late-b6/b7 02x??

This is a great DIY man! ANy reason you went with the standard spherical vs the Teflon lined MIB10T?

[mauromj]

Any of you guys know if this will work on a late-b6/b7 02x??

This is a great DIY man! ANy reason you went with the standard spherical vs the Teflon lined MIB10T?

I considered it. Figured a ball joint is a ball joint, especially for this application (shouldn't realllllly matter). Teflon does sound better though!


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[Royal769sr]

My 2003 A6 came with the weighed version. Now to do the mod and all set.

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[Royal769sr]

The later model shift ball is weighted. Also a replacement factory socket makes a world of difference and is dirt cheap.

How much is it Scotty?

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[wbrunner23]

How much is it Scotty?

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Just search the updated part # in on genuineaudiparts.com - it's like $60 something, iirc

[Royal769sr]

Well I was going to do this mod but have no idea if I can find a mib10 locally so almost ordered one online until I saw the ship date in 3 months lol. Found 1 on jegs I think though.

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[mauromj]

I ordered mine through jegs. Had it in 4 days.


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[Royal769sr]

Cool thanks

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[Charles.waite]

I found on on Amazon. It was Amazon Prime too!

[Royal769sr]

Nice!

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[rguil]

OP, Have you actually tried this in the car? Mine is binding when shifting into 2,4,6.
Yes i adjusted the shifter.

[Royal769sr]

Dang. I just ordered the bearing last night after reading if the success, now I read of binding? Hmm. The plot thickens

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[jturnbull]

How much is it Scotty?

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https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...798151/ES3185/

[Royal769sr]

Thanks bud

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[rguil]

I guess im the guinea pig on this one.
I have messed around with trying this mod in my b5 for the last two days and i cant get it to work properly. My shifter refuses to go into 2 4 and 6 properly. I would not recommend this to anyone after trying this in the car. The spherical bearing does not have enough articulation when installed into the cage.
If you look at the jhm kit, it comes with special spacers with a taper on the end and centers it at the same pivot height as oem. this allows for better articulation compared to the spacers and washers recommended in this thread.
Unless someone has a pro tip that im missing, im welding my stock ball back on and getting the plastic rebuild kit. Waist of time.

I am not associated or endorsed by jhm in any manner.

[Charles.waite]

Damn really? Did you not install this in the car yet Mauromj?

[slowSfaux]

They're called misalignment spacers. You can probably get to work on a belt sander and grind a taper in the ones you have.

Edit:looking at where the spacers would contact the cage, a traditional misalignment spacer wouldn't fit the bill, but I don't see any reason you couldn't dremel out a channel at the height the contact would occur. Or just use a thinner walled spacer.

[rguil]

They're called misalignment spacers. You can probably get to work on a belt sander and grind a taper in the ones you have.

Edit:looking at where the spacers would contact the cage, a traditional misalignment spacer wouldn't fit the bill, but I don't see any reason you couldn't dremel out a channel at the height the contact would occur. Or just use a thinner walled spacer.

It is the washers that OP recomends that contact the cage, even shaving them down signifigantly dosent work. without the washers, the spacers would fall off the bolt. I will get a pic tomm to explain. To make this work properly, one would need a larger set of misalignment spacers that you recomend to act as sort of a wedge in the bearing with no washers

[Charles.waite]

You couldn't find a cone washer to work?

[mauromj]

I am not having binding issues in 2-4-6 after this mod.

Originally, I would have problems with 2-4-6 if my linkage wasn't adjusted properly. Occasionally my linkage would shift from slamming gears to hard and make it so I only had 3-5. lol. Since doing this however, I havent had any issues.

I would try adjusting your linkage again? Not sure what to tell ya.

[e30mclow]

@ OP - your cross rod looks to have been modified from the stock plastic cup to a more sturdy alternative, but it isn't mentioned in the write up. Any details on sizing?

My cross rod popped off leaving me with only 3rd and 4th, so I'd like a permanent fix rather than always being worried.

[Zba]

@ OP - your cross rod looks to have been modified from the stock plastic cup to a more sturdy alternative, but it isn't mentioned in the write up. Any details on sizing?

My cross rod popped off leaving me with only 3rd and 4th, so I'd like a permanent fix rather than always being worried.

He mentions a JHM cross rod in the second post.

[gmudan]

Bringing this back, has anyone else tried this with success? Or found the tapered spacers to avoid risk of binding?

[rguil]

Bringing this back, has anyone else tried this with success? Or found the tapered spacers to avoid risk of binding?

just stay with the plastic parts. Works fine on the track too

[insomniacxp1]

I upgraded all shift components to jhm. Feels amazing, 0 slope or shift. I used 2 red rubber boots, 1 for the top and 1 for the bottom of the spherical bearing assembly to try and keep crappie out of it and grease in it.

[Ephry73]

very very nice!!!