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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring jrow96's Avatar
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    Every Speaker Blown

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    So I recently purchased an S4 and it seems that EVERY single speaker is blown... What are the best options in terms of a full speaker revamp. No budget, thanks.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Every speaker? That seems odd. You sure?

    There's a few threads about speaker replacement on the forum. Lots of people go with the 2ohm Infinity units. Anything will work really if you chose the correct size.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Yuppie's Avatar
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    I believe a buddy of mine has infinity replacement speakers for our b5 S4. I'll have him PM you details.
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    I doubt the tweeters are blown, if they aren't the most popular Infinity replacement speakers for all the stock speakers are:

    Front doors: Infinity 4022i
    Rear doors: Infinity 5032CF
    Rear deck: Infinity 6032

    And links for more info:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...cement-Writeup
    http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi...-bose-2017846/
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
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  5. #5
    Active Member One Ring jrow96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    I doubt the tweeters are blown, if they aren't the most popular Infinity replacement speakers for all the stock speakers are:

    Front doors: Infinity 4022i
    Rear doors: Infinity 5032CF
    Rear deck: Infinity 6032

    And links for more info:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...cement-Writeup
    http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi...-bose-2017846/
    Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring jrow96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JVD View Post
    Every speaker? That seems odd. You sure?

    There's a few threads about speaker replacement on the forum. Lots of people go with the 2ohm Infinity units. Anything will work really if you chose the correct size.
    I know right, even with the bass all the way down, no matter where I balance it to there is some nasty rattling.


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings B501S4's Avatar
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    Check the cones, they could be floating and rattling. Used a little super glue on rear decks to keep them in place. That was about 5 years ago and they still sound fine. Might keep you from a complete sound system replacement.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings MikeyB3's Avatar
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    I think I have a few stock Bose somewhere in case you want a direct replacement. (I personally would upgrade, but I dont know your life. )

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    I doubt the tweeters are blown, if they aren't the most popular Infinity replacement speakers for all the stock speakers are:

    Front doors: Infinity 4022i
    Rear doors: Infinity 5032CF
    Rear deck: Infinity 6032

    And links for more info:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...cement-Writeup
    http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi...-bose-2017846/
    Is that actually a upgrade in sound quality over properly working Bose speakers ? Mine work fine but if I can improve the sound I might go the infinity route thx

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drehmoment View Post
    Is that actually a upgrade in sound quality over properly working Bose speakers ? Mine work fine but if I can improve the sound I might go the infinity route thx
    It's a definite upgrade in sound quality, especially when used alongside the "secret" EQ settings in the Bose headunit. My only recommendation is not doing the 6032s in the rear deck and getting actual low range woofers. 6032s are designed to operate as more midrange so bass isn't going to be as strong or handle lower frequencies as well.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
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  11. #11
    Active Member One Ring jrow96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    It's a definite upgrade in sound quality, especially when used alongside the "secret" EQ settings in the Bose headunit. My only recommendation is not doing the 6032s in the rear deck and getting actual low range woofers. 6032s are designed to operate as more midrange so bass isn't going to be as strong or handle lower frequencies as well.
    Secret EQ settings?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrow96 View Post
    Secret EQ settings?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Turn radio off, then hold number 5 while turning radio back on.

    You will come up with what looks like "5555 5555" which is the standard bose EQ settings.

    First set of 5s is for the front, the other set is for the rear deck/doors.

    First 5, highs
    Second 5, mid high
    Third 5, mid low
    Fourth 5, low.

    This applies for the back as well. I'm pretty sure I have 7656 8767, but I'll have to confirm tomorrow

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Here's the link explaining it more, some of the posters suggested certain settings but I'd just play around with it and tune if for what you think sounds best.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/archiv...p/t-36377.html
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    I doubt the tweeters are blown, if they aren't the most popular Infinity replacement speakers for all the stock speakers are:

    Front doors: Infinity 4022i
    Rear doors: Infinity 5032CF
    Rear deck: Infinity 6032

    And links for more info:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...cement-Writeup
    http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi...-bose-2017846/
    You essentially want to match wattage as well as ohms. Its hard to find 2 ohm components but they CAN be found.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    I doubt the tweeters are blown, if they aren't the most popular Infinity replacement speakers for all the stock speakers are:

    Front doors: Infinity 4022i
    Rear doors: Infinity 5032CF
    Rear deck: Infinity 6032

    And links for more info:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...cement-Writeup
    http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi...-bose-2017846/
    Where is everyone sourcing these bad boys?

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings slowSfaux's Avatar
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    Last I looked, they were no longer being made.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    I have a complete system including sub since everything is NLA.

    That's going in Thursday though lol

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Just make sure you get quality and take the time to do it right. Had a shop do it with some bose/german stuff on both speakers on drivers door a few years ago... same ones went out again... Could have to do with that being the most likely to be exposed to the elements cause i open it the most, but I suspect crapper install.

    So yes tweeters definately do go bad (maybe less likely if you like to bump the base up).

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings j-dells's Avatar
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    Sometimes just the plastic cone rips off because the glue gets old. If thats the case get some e6000 glue and put them back on. Will sound great.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    before you go through all this, make sure the previous owner didnt crank up everythign via the secret EQ settings.... could account for everythign sounding like shit if he jacked up the BASS and MID to 9s.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    You essentially want to match wattage as well as ohms. Its hard to find 2 ohm components but they CAN be found.
    "Wattage" is a heat rating. It will tell you how much power the speaker can handle before it essentially burns up.

    The stock speakers have an impedance of 2 ohms. This means anything above 2 ohms would be ok. In the stock system.

    If you are moving to a 4 ohm speaker, for example, the amplifier will only be providing half of the power of the stock config... but again, power does not = sound pressure level. You may find a more efficient 4 ohm speaker that can provide the same SPL at the same volume. I don't know the stock specs so I couldn't tell you.

    I just wanted to make this post because people get so hung up on matching power ratings and impedances without really even knowing why.

    Quote Originally Posted by S4James View Post
    before you go through all this, make sure the previous owner didnt crank up everythign via the secret EQ settings.... could account for everythign sounding like shit if he jacked up the BASS and MID to 9s.
    Good point. If the factory system is meant to be run at 5 turning everything to 9 will probably cause problems. If you want to "tune" or alter the sound I would take away(cut) what you find offensive rather than boost what you want more of to compensate. Massive boosts in EQ means you are requesting exponentially more power from the amplifier... ESPECIALLY in the lower frequencies (bass).

  22. #22
    Active Member One Ring jrow96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JVD View Post
    "Wattage" is a heat rating. It will tell you how much power the speaker can handle before it essentially burns up.

    The stock speakers have an impedance of 2 ohms. This means anything above 2 ohms would be ok. In the stock system.

    If you are moving to a 4 ohm speaker, for example, the amplifier will only be providing half of the power of the stock config... but again, power does not = sound pressure level. You may find a more efficient 4 ohm speaker that can provide the same SPL at the same volume. I don't know the stock specs so I couldn't tell you.

    I just wanted to make this post because people get so hung up on matching power ratings and impedances without really even knowing why.



    Good point. If the factory system is meant to be run at 5 turning everything to 9 will probably cause problems. If you want to "tune" or alter the sound I would take away(cut) what you find offensive rather than boost what you want more of to compensate. Massive boosts in EQ means you are requesting exponentially more power from the amplifier... ESPECIALLY in the lower frequencies (bass).
    So I don't have to match impedance?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrow96 View Post
    So I don't have to match impedance?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    If you can't find 2 ohm units you'll be fine with 4 ohm. Might notice a slight decrease in volume depending on the speakers sensitivity.

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