Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings ven0m's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 10 2015
    AZ Member #
    332001
    My Garage
    Audi RS6 c7 (Avant), Audi RS4 b7 (Sedan), Audi A4 AllRoad b8.5 (Avant)
    Location
    Slovenia

    Post POLL: Warming up the BNS engine at idle; yay or nay?

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    Hey guys, this topic was probably beaten to hell already but I would much appreciate your input. I was thinking of making a poll but the yay/nay question applies to three circumstances.

    Question - warming up the car in idle:
    a) After a short stay - 12h to 1day (enough to cool down) - Yay/Nay?
    b) After a long stay - 1 week to 4 weeks (enough that all motor-oil flows down to sump) - Yay/Nay?
    c) After a cold winter night - 12h to 1 day below freezing point - Yay/Nay?



    Example answer - warming up at idle: *my answers
    a) Nay - rich injection damaging walls
    b) Yay - no oil on components; wait for proper lubrication
    c) Nyay - idle for 2 or 3min so the oil in the transmission & engine warm up just a bit


    My car usually sits for a longer period in the garage and when I fire it up again for the first time I normally let the oil reach 60°C before I even think about reving it above idle. My thinking was always:
    - At idle fluids flow slower and the air doesn't pass through the coolers; thus the engine would warm up faster
    - Oil lubrication - when the oil is cold it doesn't lubricate as well when at a specific temp.; thus when driving the car with cold oil the components aren't lubricated properly


    But I have found a lot of reasonable arguments against idling the car for a prolonged period to warm up and this writing sums it up:

    In the thick of winter, the common wisdom is that when you are gearing up to take your truck out in the cold and snow, you should step outside, start up your engine, and let it idle to warm up. But contrary to popular belief, this does not prolong the life of your engine; in fact, it decreases it by stripping oil away from the engine's cylinders and pistons.

    In a nutshell, an internal combustion engine works by using pistons to compress a mixture of air and vaporized fuel within a cylinder. The compressed mixture is then ignited to create a combustion event—a little controlled explosion that powers the engine.

    When your engine is cold, the gasoline is less likely to evaporate and create the correct ratio of air and vaporized fuel for combustion. Engines with electronic fuel injection have sensors that compensate for the cold by pumping more gasoline into the mixture. The engine continues to run rich in this way until it heats up to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

    "That's a problem because you're actually putting extra fuel into the combustion chamber to make it burn and some of it can get onto the cylinder walls," Stephen Ciatti, a mechanical engineer who specializes in combustion engines at the Argonne National Laboratory, told Business Insider. "Gasoline is an outstanding solvent and it can actually wash oil off the walls if you run it in those cold idle conditions for an extended period of time."

    The life of components like piston rings and cylinder liners can be significantly reduced by gasoline washing away the lubricating oil, not to mention the extra fuel that is used while the engine runs rich. Driving your car is the fastest way to warm the engine up to 40 degrees so it switches back to a normal fuel to air ratio. Even though warm air generated by the radiator will flow into the cabin after a few minutes, idling does surprisingly little to warm the actual engine. The best thing to do is start the car, take a minute to knock the ice off your windows, and get going.

    Of course, hopping into your car and gunning it straightaway will put unnecessary strain on your engine. It takes 5 to 15 minutes for your engine to warm up, so take it nice and easy for the first part of your drive.

    Warming up your car before driving is a leftover practice from a time when carbureted engines dominated the roads. Carburetors mix gasoline and air to make vaporized fuel to run an engine, but they don't have sensors that tweak the amount of gasoline when it's cold out. As a result, you have to let older cars warm up before driving or they will stall out. But it's been about 30 years since carbureted engines were common in cars.

    So unless you're rolling in a 1970s Chevelle—which we assume isn't your daily driver—bundle up, get into that cold car, and get it moving.
    In short - running rich for a longer period in combination with the aluminium BNS block being susceptible to wall-scorching, I would say the writer has a point. Even though I always thought the car warms up faster and is better for the oil to reach a certain temperature to lubricate better when the components start moving faster.


    How do you handle starting your RS?
    Jeremy Clarkson: "So when you were saying that it won’t slide, what you meant was, ‘I can’t slide it.’“
    James May: "Yes."

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mr.Wrong's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 07 2009
    AZ Member #
    51748
    Location
    East Coast

    Someone did a research in this and actually recording temperatures. Iirc, it took roughly 15 min for oil to reach normal operating temperature. If my memory serves me right, it was either B6 or B7 S4. RS4 should be within same time frame. General consensus. Get it and drive without high revving till oil reaches operating temps.
    2005 AUDI //S4 B6 6MT Atlas Gray 1/5 - Project Atlas Build Thread
    Forget the B8, keep the V8!
    Buying a used B6/7 S4 is like playing Russian roulette...

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings musanoadsaba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2009
    AZ Member #
    37852
    My Garage
    2007 Ibis RS4
    Location
    Rockies

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Wrong View Post
    Someone did a research in this and actually recording temperatures. Iirc, it took roughly 15 min for oil to reach normal operating temperature.
    Is this when driving or idling? I am assuming the research showed driving warms things up faster.

    I used to idle, but now I am waiting till the initial fast idle drops, then I drive, taking it easy. A lot of us use 0W40, so even when it is quite cold, it will flow well on a cold start.
    One thing I always questioned was if it is hard on the engine to drive when it is cold, by putting unnecessary stain on the engine as opposed to idling which doesn't. Comments?

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings iparatroop's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 31 2010
    AZ Member #
    59710
    My Garage
    '23 Glacier RS6, '21 District Green SQ5, '21 Tiggy, '19 Roush Raptor
    Location
    AL

    I start the car and drive, personally. The car is smart enough to limit your RPM when it hasn't reached NOT. That's not to say I run it up to 7k, though, I drive it semi-gingerly until the oil temp gauge shows a number and not dashes anymore.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Fourplay's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 01 2010
    AZ Member #
    58431
    Location
    Atlanta

    Start and drive immediately, all conditions. Keeps revs below 3k-3.5k until numbers show for oil temp, then rev up to 6k max. I don't redline unless oil temp is above 170F.
    2005 Ferrari F430

    Past:
    2007 RS4 Daytona Grey | 2008 RS4 Mugello w/Ti Package | 2007 RS4 Avus Silver (ex-Audi Corporate) | 2008 RS4 Avus Silver w/Exclusive Package
    B6 S4 Avant 6MT Dolphin Grey
    B5 S4 Avant 6MT Laser Red Stage 3+
    B5 S4 Sedan 6MT Silver Stage 1

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 10 2011
    AZ Member #
    85071
    My Garage
    991 C2S, Stage 3 S4, E46 M3
    Location
    CLT | MKE

    No need to let it idle for any extended period of time. Just keep the revs reasonable (I usually keep it to ~3k or so) until it starts getting up to temp.
    -Hayden

    B9 Q5 | Brilliant Black
    C7 A6 3.0T Prestige | Phantom Black
    E46 M3 Cab | Steel Grey
    B5 S4 | Stage 3 SRM RS6 | gone

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mr.Wrong's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 07 2009
    AZ Member #
    51748
    Location
    East Coast

    Quote Originally Posted by musanoadsaba View Post
    Is this when driving or idling? I am assuming the research showed driving warms things up faster.

    I used to idle, but now I am waiting till the initial fast idle drops, then I drive, taking it easy. A lot of us use 0W40, so even when it is quite cold, it will flow well on a cold start.
    One thing I always questioned was if it is hard on the engine to drive when it is cold, by putting unnecessary stain on the engine as opposed to idling which doesn't. Comments?
    That's while driving. Like you said wait till rpm drops into normal range and go. For us S4 folk we try to stay under 3k rpm till oil reaches operating temps. Then again BHF is not as stout as BNS. It's better to drive than let it idle. Thread is somewhere here in the archives if anyone is interested to dig for it.
    2005 AUDI //S4 B6 6MT Atlas Gray 1/5 - Project Atlas Build Thread
    Forget the B8, keep the V8!
    Buying a used B6/7 S4 is like playing Russian roulette...

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2015
    AZ Member #
    359238
    My Garage
    B7 RS4, UrS4
    Location
    Boston

    I typically only idle it for as long as it takes for the SAI to kick off, ~30 seconds or so. Once the Idle drops down to 800 I go.
    2007 RS4, Daytona Grey, Euro headlights & taillights, PIAA yellow fog lights, ECS H-Pipe, JHM downpipes, SPEC Billet steel lightweight flywheel, JHM Solid shift linkage, Bilstein PSS9's, 19x10 Rotiform TMB (summer), 19x8.5 Rotiform LAS-R (winter)
    1993 S4, euro everything ( Sold, never forgotten... )

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Chuuey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 06 2010
    AZ Member #
    55634
    My Garage
    E36
    Location
    CT

    Yay;

    Turn on, let run until idle drops to normal. Drive shifting below 3k(ish) rpm until up to temp. I've just always followed this rule, regardless of the car I'm driving.
    1998 E36 M345 T | 2017 B9 Allroad | 2002 996 GT2
    Previous:
    2001.5 B5 S4 Avant
    2009 B8 S4 6MT
    2008 B7 RS4
    1991 200 20v Avant
    2010 997 C2
    1988 E28 535is Dinan Turbo (RIP)
    2019 B9 A4

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings 0260's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 13 2012
    AZ Member #
    103987
    Location
    Pacific NW, USA

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuuey View Post
    Yay;

    Turn on, let run until idle drops to normal. Drive shifting below 3k(ish) rpm until up to temp. I've just always followed this rule, regardless of the car I'm driving.
    ^^^^^
    Ditto
    I have to admit, I've often wondered why the fast idle at start up? can anyone explain?
    2008 Audi RS4 / Suzuka Gray exterior / Silver Interior / Titanium & Premium Pkg. / Sunroof Delete
    2007 Audi S4 / Dolphin Gray exterior / Ebony Interior / Loaded
    2007 Audi A4 2.0t Quattro / Light Silver exterior / Black Interior / S-Line / Titanium Pkg.
    2005 Porsche GT3 / Artic Silver / Black Full Leather Interior / Porsche TechEquip Roll Bar / 13k mi / SOLD!

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings NYC_Legacy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 14 2009
    AZ Member #
    49251
    Location
    AZ/NY

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuuey View Post
    Yay;

    Turn on, let run until idle drops to normal. Drive shifting below 3k(ish) rpm until up to temp. I've just always followed this rule, regardless of the car I'm driving.
    Times 3.

    And 0260: I have always wondered the same as well. I know MRC actually tunes this angry/fast idle start up out so I can't imagine it being totally necessary.
    "Brake last, finish first."

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings Gansel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 09 2015
    AZ Member #
    326132
    Location
    Vancouver

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuuey View Post
    Yay;

    Turn on, let run until idle drops to normal. Drive shifting below 3k(ish) rpm until up to temp. I've just always followed this rule, regardless of the car I'm driving.
    I also do this..
    Im working hard now so my future daughter doesn’t have to sell protein powder on Instagram - 08 RS4 - Insta: @gansel

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Fourplay's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 01 2010
    AZ Member #
    58431
    Location
    Atlanta

    Quote Originally Posted by 0260 View Post
    ^^^^^
    Ditto
    I have to admit, I've often wondered why the fast idle at start up? can anyone explain?
    Stolen from another thread on ME7 tuning and cold starts:

    The cold start low idle below dew point is normal. There are several chapters in the Motronic ME7 OBD System Strategy devoted to the how the system works. Without going into excrutiating detail I will attempt to give it a very general overview. The highest conversion efficiency of the cat is when the A/F ratio is closest to Lambda=1. There are two different control loops used to achieve these conditions. The first control loop utilizes the primary (front) O2 sensor. The second control loop utilizes the secondary (rear) O2 sensor.

    The main condition for the first control loop to operate as a closed loop is for the O2 sensor to be heated to the proper temperature and the cat surfaces to be above the dew point temperature. To guarantee the O2 sensor readiness the heat up strategy can start differently depending on engine temperature. If the temperature is below dew point the heat up strategy starts with the low idle and the sensor on a low level of heater power. Once the exhaust temperature reaches a level where no liquid water is expected in the exhaust system the heater power to the sensor is increased to where the temperature is at the normal ceramic sensor temperature (685c).

    If the start up temperature of the components are above the dew point the heat up strategy changes. The O2 sensor receives a higher rate of power to bring it up to closed loop operation faster since the cat should be dry sooner. Consequently the ECU can accelerate the exhaust temperature faster (fast idle) to match the O2 sensor temperature ramp up.

    There are many other parameters being evaluated during the cold start, but these are sorta the basics of what is going on.
    TL;DR - High idle is to bring the cats up to operating temp as quickly as possible. Therefore, it's fine to begin driving the car immediately, even when the idle is high, as engine loads while driving are higher (and more effective at warming the cat) than the near zero engine loads at a high idle.
    2005 Ferrari F430

    Past:
    2007 RS4 Daytona Grey | 2008 RS4 Mugello w/Ti Package | 2007 RS4 Avus Silver (ex-Audi Corporate) | 2008 RS4 Avus Silver w/Exclusive Package
    B6 S4 Avant 6MT Dolphin Grey
    B5 S4 Avant 6MT Laser Red Stage 3+
    B5 S4 Sedan 6MT Silver Stage 1

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings iparatroop's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 31 2010
    AZ Member #
    59710
    My Garage
    '23 Glacier RS6, '21 District Green SQ5, '21 Tiggy, '19 Roush Raptor
    Location
    AL

    Quote Originally Posted by NYC_Legacy View Post
    Times 3.

    And 0260: I have always wondered the same as well. I know MRC actually tunes this angry/fast idle start up out so I can't imagine it being totally necessary.
    That isn't just an MRC thing, I assure you. I have no initial high idle.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axel-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    70167
    My Garage
    2006 JHM Stg 1 SC'd S4 Avant 6MT
    Location
    Toronto, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Wrong View Post
    Someone did a research in this and actually recording temperatures. Iirc, it took roughly 15 min for oil to reach normal operating temperature. If my memory serves me right, it was either B6 or B7 S4. RS4 should be within same time frame. General consensus. Get it and drive without high revving till oil reaches operating temps.
    That was me. Here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post8202873
    Sprint Blue B7 S4 Avant 6MT - 421whp/350wtq - Review of all my mods
    JHM Stage 1 SC - JHM IM - JHM 5R clutch - JHM LWFW - Stoptech ST-60 BBK - KW v3 Coilovers - JHM shifter - Trexturk DP - Magnaflow CB - Hotchkis RSB - JHM IS - 034 Adj. FUCA - STE Gauges

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings Reggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 27 2005
    AZ Member #
    5479
    My Garage
    2014 SQ5 & 2015 RS5
    Location
    Fort Collins Coloardo

    Start the car and only idle long enough to fasten the seat belt. Easy on the throttle till the car is fully warm

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings ven0m's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 10 2015
    AZ Member #
    332001
    My Garage
    Audi RS6 c7 (Avant), Audi RS4 b7 (Sedan), Audi A4 AllRoad b8.5 (Avant)
    Location
    Slovenia

    Many thanks for all your input!

    @Axel- you were doing the log at minimum load as far as i understood (slow city driving).
    Did you ever get the chance to log the time when just letting the car sit and idle? I would be curious to see how long it takes.
    Jeremy Clarkson: "So when you were saying that it won’t slide, what you meant was, ‘I can’t slide it.’“
    James May: "Yes."

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axel-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    70167
    My Garage
    2006 JHM Stg 1 SC'd S4 Avant 6MT
    Location
    Toronto, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by ven0m View Post
    Many thanks for all your input!

    @Axel- you were doing the log at minimum load as far as i understood (slow city driving).
    Did you ever get the chance to log the time when just letting the car sit and idle? I would be curious to see how long it takes.
    I did not because it's bad for the engine lol. Sorry.
    Sprint Blue B7 S4 Avant 6MT - 421whp/350wtq - Review of all my mods
    JHM Stage 1 SC - JHM IM - JHM 5R clutch - JHM LWFW - Stoptech ST-60 BBK - KW v3 Coilovers - JHM shifter - Trexturk DP - Magnaflow CB - Hotchkis RSB - JHM IS - 034 Adj. FUCA - STE Gauges

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings event's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 21 2009
    AZ Member #
    44048
    Location
    OR

    Turn on car and just drive... How long every driving every time they get in there car where they can keep it below 3k for 15 minutes? How bored you must be in your cars everyday. I drive it like I stole when I want to; only thing is I don't redline when it's not warmed fully. It's far more enjoyable and I have never had any engine issues.
    No longer my "DTM" S4

    Rolling STOCK B8.5 S4 for over a year and happy!

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings b6bydesign04's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2005
    AZ Member #
    8781
    Location
    Charlotte, NC

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuuey View Post
    Yay;

    Turn on, let run until idle drops to normal. Drive shifting below 3k(ish) rpm until up to temp.
    Ditto.
    -Sean
    '06 Lexus GX470 | Dobinsons | fifteen52 | BFGoodrich | Prinsu | Gobi | Orangeboxx | RSG
    '11 BMW E90 M3 | ESS S/C | Recaro | M Performance | iPE | BC Racing | BPM | Volk | Coby

    F.T.W.L.T.B.D.W.I.C.T.W.

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings mk420thae's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 22 2009
    AZ Member #
    48155
    Location
    Lexington

    Start let idle come down from cold start. And then drive.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    JHM tuned Avus Silver RS4

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings WinterRunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2007
    AZ Member #
    21717
    My Garage
    12' DG R8 5.2 6mt 22' CG Q3 S+ 07' DG RS4 01' A4 avant 5mt
    Location
    Suburbia

    I waited ~30 seconds fore the idle to drop to normal, then drove it under 4K RPMs until I saw temps in the 160's. This was in rain, snow, sleet or shine. I do the same thing with the R8, etc etc.

    Several oil analysis's done during my ownership had shown the engine was wearing very nicely, above average for the BNS (according to Blackstone Labs).
    12' R8 Daytona/CF V10 6MT
    ~VF750 supercharged~Avior Ti non-res~GT coilovers~Girodiscs~Wingbacks~CF S-wheel~Maxton Aero bits~
    07' RS4 Daytona/Panda
    ~Jackal tune~Zinram 70mm DPs~JHM res catback~Custom CAI~Bilstein PSS9s~Girodiscs~JHM shifter~

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 13 2004
    AZ Member #
    448
    My Garage
    AW E30 M3 & PB B7 RS4 (DD)
    Location
    SoCal

    Wait for idle to drop and drive easy until the oil temp needle move. Same for all my cars (BMW)

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings 0260's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 13 2012
    AZ Member #
    103987
    Location
    Pacific NW, USA

    Quote Originally Posted by Fourplay View Post
    Stolen from another thread on ME7 tuning and cold starts:



    TL;DR - High idle is to bring the cats up to operating temp as quickly as possible. Therefore, it's fine to begin driving the car immediately, even when the idle is high, as engine loads while driving are higher (and more effective at warming the cat) than the near zero engine loads at a high idle.
    Cool ... thanks for the info / makes sense now. Appreciate the basic explaination. I would not want, nor understand, a more detailed one!
    2008 Audi RS4 / Suzuka Gray exterior / Silver Interior / Titanium & Premium Pkg. / Sunroof Delete
    2007 Audi S4 / Dolphin Gray exterior / Ebony Interior / Loaded
    2007 Audi A4 2.0t Quattro / Light Silver exterior / Black Interior / S-Line / Titanium Pkg.
    2005 Porsche GT3 / Artic Silver / Black Full Leather Interior / Porsche TechEquip Roll Bar / 13k mi / SOLD!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2024 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.