12V VR Swap Issues - Cruise Control / Long Cranking / Random 300-400 RPM Revs & Drops

[Suavez]

A friend and I had done a AFP swap into my AEG 99.5 GTI chassis. The drive by cable was converted to the drive by wire pedal and wired-in according to V hub schematics.

I have 2 issues that I wanted to see if any of you guys have had any experience with and/or maybe can provide some insight on:

1. Cruise Control - We had thought it was a faulty clutch switch but I replaced it and that didn't solve the problem. He told me to start there based on a non-changing vagcom reading (in what we believe to be the cruise control bank) he got when engaging and disengaging the clutch. Are there 2 cc switches?

If the brake lights going on/off when the brake pedal is pressed is the only indication necessary to determine that the brake switch works, that checks out too.

Which other switches/sensors would anyone suggest taking a look at?


2. Long cranking / inconsistent acceleration / random 300-400rpm revs after clutch pedal is pushed in. (I'm presuming these are all related so I listed them together.)

More often than not, I need to hold the key to crank the car for 5-6 secs and pump the throttle to get it to stay turned over.
When I say inconsistent acceleration, I'm referring to the experience that sometimes the car pushes me back in my seat when I'm accelerating and sometimes it reminds me of the 2.S we just took out...
I got new OEM crank and cam position sensors for cheap so I'mma change those in the coming days. In anyone's experience, if that doesn't remedy these issues, what else is a common cause to them? There are no vacuum leaks in the hoses either. MAF and O2s all new and seem to be reading normal. Throttle body clean, gas mileage sucks.

No CEL.

Relevant Mods:
-DRC268S (+ valve springs, retainers, seals)
-No cat, O2 sensor spacer
-3" custom exhaust (prepping for future turbo setup after sorting these issues out)
-UM Stage 1 N/A tune
-Autotech CAI
-eBay specials race header

Thanks in advance.

[Suavez]

I changed out the cam and crank pos sensors... the wire insulation was dry rotting on those so I'm glad I did. Considering what I paid for the car, its age, the abuse by 4 owners before me, and the prices I can get some OEM parts for - they might as well be changed anyway cause if they didn't fail yet, they soon will... With that in mind as a close 2nd priority, my 1st priority is to get to the roots of the problems in the subject. Some may be related to each other, some may not.

On another note, the car starts up stronger and quicker now (when it does start) since I changed out those 2 sensors. When I fix my vag cable I'll look further into bank values I researched for the cruise control and if I get some helpful suggestions on this forum I look forward to adding those to the troubleshooting agenda.

I still gotta give it a long crank (most often after I just drove it) and some throttle for it to stay turnt over. Then it blib blib blib blib blib blibs blibs for a little while trying to stay on. I get the 1 or 2 random 300-400 revs (up/down) at times too with the clutch disengaged or just in neutral to the point where it wants to stall (down at 400rpms) when I get to a stop sign. I got a feeling that this has something to do with the inconsistent acceleration with the clutch engaged at regular rpms because if the engine is randomly dropping 300-400rpms while I'm trying to accelerate 300-400rpms the result would be a delay and an inconsistent acceleration.

[Suavez]

So I was cruising the other day at about 3100rpms and out of nowhere the car threw me back in my seat. It was as if a loose connection, clog, or vacuum leak had cleared itself and the car was running and responding how it's actually supposed to. I took it back home and checked for leaks and loose connections but still didn't find anything.

Drove it in today and it's back on its bullshit.