Wastegate leak: Hardline separated from soft line

[vavJETTAw36]

Alright guys, I found a leak in the WG line where the hardline crimps to soft line and gets hose clamped onto the actuator nipple. This is on the passenger side.

Need a solution to run a line from the Y split near N75 down directly to the WG actuator bypassing the hardline. What hose size and material do I need? How do I route? Need this to work for a long time until the next time I pull the engine.

Looks like I can simply drop the sway bar and gain enough room for my small hands. should be able to move the airbox to get some room for routing.



Thanks,
Shawn

[erykv1]

I ended up just replacing just the silicone sections of the line, but I had my motor out.
I believe I used a 3/16 ID 1 ply hose (similar to OEM) and reconnected it to the hardline using an oiteker clamp. I believe most 1 ply hoses in this range are rated up to 350*F, and burst pressures are around 300psi which is way more than what your wastegates will ever see.

Just to be safe I covered the line in some fire sleeve that you can buy from summit racing. Probably overkill, but it does get pretty hot in our bays.

[vavJETTAw36]

I ended up just replacing just the silicone sections of the line, but I had my motor out.
I believe I used a 3/16 ID 1 ply hose (similar to OEM) and reconnected it to the hardline using an oiteker clamp. I believe most 1 ply hoses in this range are rated up to 350*F, and burst pressures are around 300psi which is way more than what your wastegates will ever see.

Just to be safe I covered the line in some fire sleeve that you can buy from summit racing. Probably overkill, but it does get pretty hot in our bays.

Im assuming you just cut off the compression/crimped ends?

[erykv1]

Yes. They're barbed underneath. I did the same to the coolant lines as well while I was there.

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[Wagonholic]

Hmmm... my motor is out right now, wondering if I should do this. My WG lines are original, but are in pretty good shape.

Thinking about possibly using some steel braided line or something...

[christianb5s4]

Another option is the wastegate lines Cinesnow makes, IMO they offer many advantages over the stock lines and the quality is fantastic. Well worth the $270 for both the WG actuator and reference lines.

[erykv1]

Hmmm... my motor is out right now, wondering if I should do this. My WG lines are original, but are in pretty good shape.

Thinking about possibly using some steel braided line or something...

The top sections that are connected by the Y are usually in pretty good shape, its the ones that connect to the wastegates nipple get old / brittle over time... especially by the clamp
I also contemplated going to the stainless line, but I dont think the interior line holds up well in high temps. Theres a thread on this somewhere I think where it melted on someone.
Plus it comes w/ 1 ply silicone from the factory... figured if it was good enough for Audi its good enough for me.

[vavJETTAw36]

Thanks for all the help guys. With help from Eric, Christian, and Brad (corradovolksb) I came up with simply removing the soft line from the WG and replacing it. I believe I can gain enough room by simply dropping the sway bar. With long reach side cutters, I will remove the soft line and use a new line and two hose clamps.

Bought 5/32" (4mm) with a 3mm wall for replacement. If this fails my plan b is to run a full soft line from WG to Y pipe and wrap it in thermal wrap like "s4 gasm aka LOTR" did. Next engine pull I will install cinesnow lines.


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[Zba]

Hmmm... my motor is out right now, wondering if I should do this. My WG lines are original, but are in pretty good shape.

Thinking about possibly using some steel braided line or something...

Absolutely replace them while your engine is out!

Silicone hoses with the OE heat shield on there you should be good to go. Or if you're all in go for the cinesnow lines.

[christianb5s4]

Absolutely replace them while your engine is out!

Silicone hoses with the OE heat shield on there you should be good to go. Or if you're all in go for the cinesnow lines.

Agreed with this.

[DanS4]

Alright guys, I found a leak in the WG line where the hardline crimps to soft line and gets hose clamped onto the actuator nipple. This is on the passenger side.

Need a solution to run a line from the Y split near N75 down directly to the WG actuator bypassing the hardline. What hose size and material do I need? How do I route? Need this to work for a long time until the next time I pull the engine.

Looks like I can simply drop the sway bar and gain enough room for my small hands. should be able to move the airbox to get some room for routing.



Thanks,
Shawn

I did this with the engine in the car. This is not "easy" to do.


You need to get under the car and get some long tools. You best friend is a very long screwdriver. Slide a hose( i forget size) with the screwdriver over the barbed portion of the wastegate.

I routed the wastegate line towards the front of the motor along the turbo inlet pipe.

[zillarob]

Best way is take the motor mount out for easy access and fix it right.
Can cut the metal ferrule off and put a new hose on. Pside is pretty easy, but dside is tucked up between the turbo and motor and a lil tight to get at.

Easiest is just run a new hose from the tee to the turbo. Usually need to run over the top of the motor and come back to the turbo from the front to keep it away from the ex mani.
You can do this one without taking anything apart if you have the right pliers.

[xalents23]

As zillarob mentioned above. I use a hose plier to work on the driver-side wastegate line. Without removing the engine. Takes patience to get the darn wastegate hose on though.

[f4m0u5]

I'm going through this exact same problem right now haha...


How long of a line did you run to the front and under?

I got 10 feet of high temp silicone hose and heat shield sleeving to go over it.

[zillarob]

That should be plenty.
When I have done the temp fix like that, I run it over the top and down with the evap lines on the inlets to keep it from burning on the exhaust.

It doesnt seem to really affect anything, but one tuner thought it made the waste gates a lil less responsive.

[vavJETTAw36]

Alright guys my new line hasn't come yet so I'm still waiting on that.

But managed get the OeM line off and the lines are ready to accept the new hose.

Tools I used are the long reach hose needle nose like shown above and a long reach side cutter (11 inch). Took me 3 hours to get to it and the OeM line off.

Here's how it's done:
Lift car
Drop sway bar
Remove airbox
Detach inlet and move it as far forward as possible.

That'll give you enough room to sneak your arm behind and over the sub frame to hold the hardline down while you use your right hand to cut the end off.

As it sits:



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[Corradovolksb]

Nice man. That's great you got the old one off. Working on our cars is so much fun

[vavJETTAw36]

Nice man. That's great you got the old one off. Working on our cars is so much fun

Bahaha. Oh my gosh, it is so much fun!!! Not!

Worth it in the end though. Now I've learned more and have a new tool for the tool cart.


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[Corradovolksb]

Hell yah it will be.

It's always good to add tools to the tool box that way it will be there when you need it again.

[zillarob]

Alright guys my new line hasn't come yet so I'm still waiting on that.

But managed get the OeM line off and the lines are ready to accept the new hose.

Tools I used are the long reach hose needle nose like shown above and a long reach side cutter (11 inch). Took me 3 hours to get to it and the OeM line off.

Here's how it's done:
Lift car
Drop sway bar
Remove airbox
Detach inlet and move it as far forward as possible.

That'll give you enough room to sneak your arm behind and over the sub frame to hold the hardline down while you use your right hand to cut the end off.

I think you did it the hard way
If you ever do it again, look up the motor mount diy. Once the mount is out of the way you can get right at them.

[vavJETTAw36]

I think you did it the hard way
If you ever do it again, look up the motor mount diy. Once the mount is out of the way you can get right at them.

Actually I think the motor mount is exactly the same with extra steps. You still have to move the inlet to get to the top bolt. The sway bar was probably extra work but gives you a little extra work

Anyways, got 'r done. No leaks from my line. I always manage to walk away with a boost leak though. Got a free BOV ;) jk, forgot to tighten a clamp and the vertical inlet clamp broke and didn't tighten up all the way. Now she's as air tight as a fish's butthole.


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[okkim]

I have changed that without removing the motor mount.

I remove the lower motor mount nut and lift motor as much as I can. Then I remove the air box, right light and then the intake pipe can be pulled away. Then the hose can be removed from the waste gate actuator. I remove the whole pipe/hose line, and put in a new one, or fix the old line. It makes no sense to try to fix it in situ. The most difficult part is to get new hose over the actuator nipple. It takes about 3-4 hours from start to finish.

[vavJETTAw36]

I have changed that without removing the motor mount.

I remove the lower motor mount nut and lift motor as much as I can. Then I remove the air box, right light and then the intake pipe can be pulled away. Then the hose can be removed from the waste gate actuator. I remove the whole pipe/hose line, and put in a new one, or fix the old line. It makes no sense to try to fix it in situ. The most difficult part is to get new hose over the actuator nipple. It takes about 3-4 hours from start to finish.

I didn't touch motor mounts or light but I also wasn't running new line or pulling the hard line. You're right about the line over the nipple. Took me 15 min just to do that!!!


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[zillarob]

I guess I do use a lift, pole jack to support the motor, and a bent all to hell 13mm wrench for the upper mount nuts.
Those things prob play a huge role in making that the easiest method for me.

If doing it at home, I could see attacking it from the top having some benefits.