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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings PKmode's Avatar
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    Sep 19 2005
    AZ Member #
    8031
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI USA

    Heat and twist completed. Shift button drops in but not engaged.

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    So I swapped shift knobs over the weekend. No big deal to do the heat and twist. Took my time and thought I did it well. I heated at the thickest point and twisted there with a solid 90* and seemingly stayed in the same orientation otherwise. The knob goes on far enough as it drops down to the 2nd line but when I pull the trigger safety out, the button snaps in and stays without lifting the plastic shift rod (won't leave P). Then I have to pull it off and use my hanger tool to get the button to pop back out enough to grab it.

    Anyone have any tips? I did sand the keyway a bit and lube it to help with no success. I'm guessing it has to be an alignment thing with the buttons lever not sliding into the hole on the shift rod properly.
    Do it right, or don't bother.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings S6Express's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 14 2014
    AZ Member #
    138911
    Location
    Miami, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by PKmode View Post
    So I swapped shift knobs over the weekend. No big deal to do the heat and twist. Took my time and thought I did it well. I heated at the thickest point and twisted there with a solid 90* and seemingly stayed in the same orientation otherwise. The knob goes on far enough as it drops down to the 2nd line but when I pull the trigger safety out, the button snaps in and stays without lifting the plastic shift rod (won't leave P). Then I have to pull it off and use my hanger tool to get the button to pop back out enough to grab it.

    Anyone have any tips? I did sand the keyway a bit and lube it to help with no success. I'm guessing it has to be an alignment thing with the buttons lever not sliding into the hole on the shift rod properly.
    Same exact thing happened to me. Perfectly aligned, sanded inside, lubed, and I just could not get the thing to engage. Most frustrating mod I've ever done. It's on there, but the locking mechanism is not functional. I inserted some foam inside the knob to push the button out. If you figure it out, let me know. I would need a new shift knob at this point.
    2013 S6
    Ibis White / Black Int / Innovation / Bang & Olufsen / LED Headlights / Carbon Inlays / Black Headliner / Sunshades / Cold Weather

    Mods:
    HRE P47SC 21" x 9.5" Wheels / RS7 Rear Diffuser & Oval Exhaust Tips / Red Bembos / Bigger Rear Spoiler / Dead Pedal S6 Badge / Black Wrapped Grille Slats / Black Wrapped Grille Edge / Black Window Trim / K&N Drop In / Escort Max360 Hardwired w/ Remote SmartCord / VAG COM Mods / 35% Tint

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings PKmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2005
    AZ Member #
    8031
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI USA

    That doesn't sound promising. Although mine varies slightly as I cannot drive the car at all with the knob installed as the button doesn't lift the shift rod to get out of park.
    Do it right, or don't bother.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings PKmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2005
    AZ Member #
    8031
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI USA

    So on my lunch break, I decided to adjust the alignment position by giving it a little extra twist after seeing some pics on the internet. I now have a working shift knob, albeit not a fully retracting button but 50-75% there. That may be because I opened the hole a little bit on the top as well as the bottom so there is likely less stroke with the button due to this. It works well enough.
    Do it right, or don't bother.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings S6Express's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 14 2014
    AZ Member #
    138911
    Location
    Miami, FL

    That's what happened to me as well. I could get it to push in, but not release the button. The logical explanation is that the hole is not big enough, but whatever. I raised the white flag. Its working.
    2013 S6
    Ibis White / Black Int / Innovation / Bang & Olufsen / LED Headlights / Carbon Inlays / Black Headliner / Sunshades / Cold Weather

    Mods:
    HRE P47SC 21" x 9.5" Wheels / RS7 Rear Diffuser & Oval Exhaust Tips / Red Bembos / Bigger Rear Spoiler / Dead Pedal S6 Badge / Black Wrapped Grille Slats / Black Wrapped Grille Edge / Black Window Trim / K&N Drop In / Escort Max360 Hardwired w/ Remote SmartCord / VAG COM Mods / 35% Tint

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    378578
    Location
    SJ/CA

    there is a video somewhere on B8 forms where a user used duct tape to pull the trigger out. dont have the link available right now.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings PKmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2005
    AZ Member #
    8031
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI USA

    Yeah, there's no need to show me that. Like I said, initially, it was dropping in all the way because the lever actuated by the button was not falling in to the slot on the plastic shift rod. After aligning that with some additional rotation, it works. Now it doesn't pop all the way out because I sanded the slot on the top end which pushes the lever back down.

    As far as those who get there button stick in, I made a hook type tool with a coat hanger and it pulls down the lever, thus pushing out the button enough to grab it and put the safety back in.
    Do it right, or don't bother.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings RAF_S7's Avatar
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    Mar 29 2014
    AZ Member #
    167502
    Location
    Hampshire, UK

    Not all knobs are created equally, even if they look similar.

    On the C7 model, you have to use a C7 knob. So if it's an A6 say, you have to use an S6/S7/RS6/RS7 knob.

    I bought what l thought was an RS7 knob off eBay to put on my S7, and had the exact symptoms you describe. Turned out it was an RS5 knob, which has a slightly different stick fitting.

    I ended up buying a new one from the dealer
    2016 S7 Sepang Blue ///Matrix//Bose//Self Park//Lane Assist//ACC//F&R parking cams//Blackvue DR750//Phone Box//Sunroof//Privacy glass//Carbon mirrors//Neidfaktor Steering wheel//RS Knob//OEM RS Grill//Suntek PPF//De-chromed//Modded Exhaust//Cete ASC v2 installed//APR Stage 3 w/RS7 Turbos and intake pipes + TSU//Eventuri CF intake//Carbon Diffuser
    Gone: 2014 Audi A7Q 3.0 TFSI
    Gone: 2011 Audi A6Q 2.8 TFSI

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    290115
    Location
    Atlanta, GA

    Quote Originally Posted by jkwelsh View Post
    I ended up buying a new one from the dealer
    Who did you buy yours from?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings PKmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 19 2005
    AZ Member #
    8031
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI USA

    I used the facelift knob that I got from Europrice
    Do it right, or don't bother.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    290115
    Location
    Atlanta, GA

    Quote Originally Posted by PKmode View Post
    I used the facelift knob that I got from Europrice
    Cool, thanks!

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings A6sport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 11 2007
    AZ Member #
    16309
    My Garage
    4L Q7 3.0T Stage II, D4 A8L 4.2, A5 2.0t APR stage III, MK1 TT 225 APR stage I
    Location
    Colorado Springs

    Did you guys sand both the upper and lower inside of the pin? It is because of your experience and many others, that I did the cut, drill, tap, set-screw method. It just seemed a bit more exact.

    It's not too late to try it, the more you manipulate the pit with heat and more sanding, the weaker it'll become. I think I spent 20-30 bucks on tiny drill bits, tap, and set screw.

    Last edited by A6sport; 09-20-2016 at 07:04 AM.
    2015 Q7 S line Sport+ APR Stage II DP
    2012 A7Plus APR Stage II+ UC
    2012 A8L 4.2
    2010 A5 2.0T APR K04 Stage III
    2002 TT 225 Roadster APR Stage I

    Still own them all...

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