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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings calebtbay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 06 2016
    AZ Member #
    380297
    My Garage
    2006 Range Rover Sport SC, 1998 Range Rover P38, 2005 Izuzu NQR, 2007 Toyota Forklift
    Location
    Bedford, IN

    Gearbox feels like it wants to jump out into the cabin!

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    I searched for this issue and couldn't really find anything on it.

    I just purchased this car and it has been a while since I have owned a car with a manual transmission. I want to see what it can do of course. I drive it up to redline before switching gears. I shift slow since I don't know the limits yet and I also accelerate at a rate probably 80% of what is doable. When I shift from first to second the transmission feels like it going to jump out. If feels as if there is some significant tension on the transmission mounts for some reason. With the clutch in it slides right out of first and right into second. Then when the clutch is then engaged is when it wants to ride in the passenger seat. All the other gears seem fine.

    The issue only occurs on rapid acceleration. It shifts super smooth under normal driving conditions.

    From what I can tell its not the syncros or the clutch disc.

    I don't think there is really anything wrong with it, I think its how I am driving it. I want to drive it correctly so I would really like to get it figured out.

    Double clutching doesn't really seem to help, however I have made that almost second nature at this point.

    What am I doing wrong?

    2004 Audi S4 4.2 Nat Asp V8 134k miles.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 22 2015
    AZ Member #
    321925
    My Garage
    2012 Mini Countryman S
    Location
    Va Beach

    I'm not sure if you're trolling or not, but it sounds like you need new drivetrain mounts. Especially the snub.

    Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings calebtbay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 06 2016
    AZ Member #
    380297
    My Garage
    2006 Range Rover Sport SC, 1998 Range Rover P38, 2005 Izuzu NQR, 2007 Toyota Forklift
    Location
    Bedford, IN

    I had the car inspected at the large dealership where I bought it, mounts were on their list. They were not an audi dealer, so I took it to the audi dealer for another inspection and just to get antiquated with where I know I will be spending a lot of time soon. They again checked the mounts and said they were ok, even after my mentioning the issue.

    We are replacing the front joints and all of the axles next week, as well as valve cover gaskets. Maybe I will ask them a little more specifically to check the "snub", or inquire the cost to just replace them. Maybe they have the parts in house and having it done at the same time can save some money.

    What is trolling?

    I am finally getting the hang of matching the rpms, it feels so good to feel it engage from the other side of the sweet spot and know your getting close. revving into a stop to sync everything up on downshift is taking some practice though.
    Last edited by calebtbay; 09-18-2016 at 08:35 PM.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings DarrenOman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 04 2014
    AZ Member #
    292854
    My Garage
    2009 Gray A3
    Location
    California

    The worn or missing front snub mount will make the tranny feel like it jerking forward and back under heavy load. Many types to chose from.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings TarlCabot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109786
    My Garage
    Can of Whoop @ss!!!
    Location
    Upstate, SC

    bad engine mounts, snub, tranny... etc.
    PAST
    2004 Audi (B6) S4 4.2L
    2006 Audi (B7) S4 4.2L 25th Anniversary Special Edition #167
    Current
    2015 Audi (B8.5) A4 2.0T P+ Sline ECS-Luft-Technik Intake System/Air Scoop v2/Silicone Intake Tract Set with turbo muffler delete, GFB DV+ VTA Performance Blow-Off Valve, JHM FMIC/ECU and TCU (Automatic 8 Tip Quattro) Stage 2 tunes. Cosmetic RS4 Honeycomb Mesh Front Grille and Fog Light Vent Grilles

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 04 2016
    AZ Member #
    368240
    Location
    London

    Mine does this. Except I've got 034 engine and gearbox mounts, an APR snub mount, and Powerflex diff mount. I've had it checked out but there's nothing obviously wrong. Wtf.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 30 2014
    AZ Member #
    299216
    Location
    Dallas, TX

    You've got to get used to it and adapt your driving style accordingly. I got into my B6 S4 after driving a Mazda 6 for a few years so the jump from a 4 cyl to an 8 cyl was pretty significant. With the 8 cyl, you have more engine friction obviously so your RPM's drop faster between shifts, I adapted by shifting gears a little quicker. When I was still getting used to it, it did feel like the gearbox was moving around a lot. This was about 2 years ago, and recently I updated my transmission software (when I put an APR tune on) and stiffened my transmission mounts and greased the clutch mechanism, and my gear changes feel smooth as silk!

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 01 2015
    AZ Member #
    340098
    Location
    Metro Detroit

    Gearbox feels like it wants to jump out into the cabin!

    Like Gautam said, when I first bought mine I couldn't drive it smoothly to save my life despite the fact that I've never owned an automatic in my life. These cars rev up and down fast, so you gotta shift pretty quick to keep up with it, and you can get it to be smooth as butter. That said, it'd be worth checking the snub mount. Wouldn't surprise me if your inspections missed it, my ppi missed it. Luckily it's a cheap part and relatively simple fix


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by mdhagan; 09-19-2016 at 05:58 PM.
    Matt, Metro-Detroit, Brilliant Red '04 S4
    I have timing tools for rent

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings calebtbay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 06 2016
    AZ Member #
    380297
    My Garage
    2006 Range Rover Sport SC, 1998 Range Rover P38, 2005 Izuzu NQR, 2007 Toyota Forklift
    Location
    Bedford, IN

    Thank you all for taking the time to respond.

    I have come to the conclusion that all of my life I have been driving a manual wrong, and all the cars in my life have let me do it. I have a tendency to think that pressing the accelerator during a gear change is going to somehow damage the car. I always let off the accelerator. I never knew about trying to match RPMs between gears. I have it down smooth from 3rd to 6th, still working on 1st through 3rd. I think most of it is due to this car having a very low threshold for being driven improperly.

    I thought double clutching was some fast and furious BS, and have never made it part of how I drive. I do now!
    I never understood the need for a short shift kit, I do now.

    The gearbox still gives a little kick in 2nd, but when I finally get down shifting the lower gears It wont be noticeable.

    So its a little bit worn mounts, and a lot my driving.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings TarlCabot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109786
    My Garage
    Can of Whoop @ss!!!
    Location
    Upstate, SC

    if your shifter is physically moving up and down or left and right when you are acc or dec, then something is loose... mine was a combination of what i listed above, now she is pretty tight other then a slight "flexing" under hard driving conditions

    the only other thing it could be, your shifter box is loose, but i'm sure you would hear that rattling if it was

    the OEM mounts are crap, most of the time you can not tell if it is bad or causing your complaint just from inspection...

    the oem snub mount is crap and will allow the engine to move around, the motor mount are hydraulic dampening for comfort, they usually give code or are leaking fluid... one of mine was completely broken in half and didn't code or leak

    the tranny mount is okay, but still spongy, you will want to replace that with 034 street
    PAST
    2004 Audi (B6) S4 4.2L
    2006 Audi (B7) S4 4.2L 25th Anniversary Special Edition #167
    Current
    2015 Audi (B8.5) A4 2.0T P+ Sline ECS-Luft-Technik Intake System/Air Scoop v2/Silicone Intake Tract Set with turbo muffler delete, GFB DV+ VTA Performance Blow-Off Valve, JHM FMIC/ECU and TCU (Automatic 8 Tip Quattro) Stage 2 tunes. Cosmetic RS4 Honeycomb Mesh Front Grille and Fog Light Vent Grilles

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 01 2015
    AZ Member #
    340098
    Location
    Metro Detroit

    I dunno man I don't double clutch nor do I rev match up shifts using the throttle, I only blip on downshifts for rev matching


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Matt, Metro-Detroit, Brilliant Red '04 S4
    I have timing tools for rent

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings TarlCabot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109786
    My Garage
    Can of Whoop @ss!!!
    Location
    Upstate, SC

    with my stage 2 clutch, 93 tune and all these mods/mounts... if i don't rev match the pop is so harsh i can feel it all the way down to my spine lol... but very little "BOOM" noise (other than the expected clutch/fw chatter) and no movement in my shifter

    i never got why one should double clutch... other than in older trucks with the low/high rear end in them (fire trucks and tow trucks)

    granny all the way
    PAST
    2004 Audi (B6) S4 4.2L
    2006 Audi (B7) S4 4.2L 25th Anniversary Special Edition #167
    Current
    2015 Audi (B8.5) A4 2.0T P+ Sline ECS-Luft-Technik Intake System/Air Scoop v2/Silicone Intake Tract Set with turbo muffler delete, GFB DV+ VTA Performance Blow-Off Valve, JHM FMIC/ECU and TCU (Automatic 8 Tip Quattro) Stage 2 tunes. Cosmetic RS4 Honeycomb Mesh Front Grille and Fog Light Vent Grilles

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