First 'big' job... Timing belt and friends

[JordanBetch]

So my 01.5 dumped all my coolant onto the road about a week ago. Although I haven't taken the car apart yet, I'm 99% sure that my plastic thermostat housing is culprit. So while I'm all the way in there I intend on doing the timing and accessory belts, thermostat and housing, and the water pump. Now, I've never done this before, on any car. Mentally I'm ready, just a little weary that once I'm in I could be in way over my head. So AZ, I turn to you for guidance, input, and reassurance. Special tools needed, tips for the tricky parts, really anything that helps. Much thanks in advance!


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[Cgoon009]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=notzLin4dVI

Watch it, and just make sure to get the tools. You NEED the cam bar and crank pin. The other tools you can do without, but having done it both ways, just do yourself a favor and buy them.

[vavJETTAw36]

You going to do valve cover gaskets too?


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[GramCracker]

It's really not an involved job. Just set aside a little bit more time than you think you'll need in the event you run into something random (a seized bolt, etc.) and you'll be fine.

[JordanBetch]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=notzLin4dVI

Watch it, and just make sure to get the tools. You NEED the cam bar and crank pin. The other tools you can do without, but having done it both ways, just do yourself a favor and buy them.

Already watched it. I know I need the bar and pin, also heard the cam gear puller was needed. As for valve cover gaskets, I know those were done at 120k and I'm at 139k.


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[-Billy]

I have never needed the cam gear puller. I always just break the bolt loose then whack the head of the bolt with a hammer. The cam gear will pop right off.

[audinutt]

I have never needed the cam gear puller. I always just break the bolt loose then whack the head of the bolt with a hammer. The cam gear will pop right off.

Not the best advice.

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[-Billy]

Probably not, but I've done it at least 10 times without a problem...

[88ninety9]

It's really not an involved job. Just set aside a little bit more time than you think you'll need in the event you run into something random (a seized bolt, etc.) and you'll be fine.

This, just did mine it was super easy.

[JordanBetch]

Thank you all for the help. Trying not to sweat ripping the front end of my car apart. Anybody got a link for that cam gear puller by chance? Safer than sorry


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[88ninety9]

It's really not that bad, the video cgoon009 posted is the one I used as well.
Here is a cam gear puller
https://www.europaparts.com/2-arm-sp...YlIaAs238P8HAQ

You could also use a universal 2 arm puller

[Wagonholic]

Go to pepboys or autozone and rent one of those generic gear pullers for free. Literally just did this last week and they worked perfectly

- - - Updated - - -

grab the cam lock bar and pin combo off of ebay. It's $20-30 and works perfectly. No need to speed the $100+ or whatever ridiculous amount ECS wants for their cam lock bar/pin combo.

[-Billy]

I agree. I have the cheap $30ish cam lock bar and crank lock pin and it works great.

[JordanBetch]

Bought a metal housing, but what's the best timing belt kit?? Not doing valve cover gaskets so do I still have to pull the cam gears?


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[jaychen]

Bought a metal housing, but what's the best timing belt kit?? Not doing valve cover gaskets so do I still have to pull the cam gears?


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you're meant to pull the cam gears to time it correctly. i have done it numerous times without pulling them, though.

[JordanBetch]

you're meant to pull the cam gears to time it correctly. i have done it numerous times without pulling them, though.

Granted I'm not down to it, but it doesn't make sense, can't you just guide the belt around the teeth? Wouldn't loosening the tensioner give you enough slack to do what you need to do? As long as you have the belt on correctly over the cams.


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[slowSfaux]

Until you've taken it apart and see how the cam adjusters work, you won't understand how it works. To do the job the "right" way, the cam gears must be popped. That said, you can still get pretty close without doing this step, but will never get them spot on.

[jaychen]

Until you've taken it apart and see how the cam adjusters work, you won't understand how it works. To do the job the "right" way, the cam gears must be popped. That said, you can still get pretty close without doing this step, but will never get them spot on.

you can roll the crank slightly back/forward so that the slack pulls it back into alignment (if you know what i mean).

[slowSfaux]

Yeah that makes sense, but if you're in deep enough to replace the belt, popping the cam gears is easy as can be. Just about any 2jaw puller will work, just make sure the cam bar is in place first.

[jaychen]

Yeah that makes sense, but if you're in deep enough to replace the belt, popping the cam gears is easy as can be. Just about any 2jaw puller will work, just make sure the cam bar is in place first.

yeah definitely. i did 3 t-belt jobs before i was bothered to buy the crank pin/lock bar though. just saying it can be done very easily without, the bar/pin/2jaw puller makes it much easier!

[JordanBetch]

I think I'm gonna stop asking questions til I'm down to it. I just don't see how you can pop the gears off with the lock bar on them.. noob status is extreme


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[jaychen]

I think I'm gonna stop asking questions til I'm down to it. I just don't see how you can pop the gears off with the lock bar on them.. noob status is extreme


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you dont.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=notzLin4dVI

skip to 21:20ish to get an idea of what we're talking about!

[zillarob]

Ive always popped them with the bar on.
Pside cam is on a lobe and loaded up like a bear trap so likes to jump and scare the shit out of people.

Do it the right way, or dont do it at all. Plenty of threads here posted on sun night with people in a panic because they need to get to work in the morn and the car is all jacked up.

If you do it the proper way it is almost foolproof.
The other ways should be reserved for when you know exactly wtf you are doing, stuck in the desert, or some other MacGyver worthy emergency.

D/l and read through this a few times before you do it. Print it out so it is handy.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_z...ew?usp=sharing

[RadicZ06]

Ive always popped them with the bar on.
Pside cam is on a lobe and loaded up like a bear trap so likes to jump and scare the shit out of people.

Do it the right way, or dont do it at all. Plenty of threads here posted on sun night with people in a panic because they need to get to work in the morn and the car is all jacked up.

If you do it the proper way it is almost foolproof.
The other ways should be reserved for when you know exactly wtf you are doing, stuck in the desert, or some other MacGyver worthy emergency.

D/l and read through this a few times before you do it. Print it out so it is handy.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_z...ew?usp=sharing

The passenger side will often turn 45 degrees or so. It's not a big deal. You won't cause interference. Just reset it with the cam bar if you have it.

You can do it without the cam bar or crank lock pin. You just need something to lock the cams when you are tightening the bolts back down.

This is a 3-4 hour job if you do it right. Put it in service position instead of taking the front end off.
Always use dealership parts for timing components. NEVER ebay or "kits"

[jturnbull]

I used this http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...34-10-2012.pdf helped a bunch

[JordanBetch]

Jtunbull, thanks for the great link. Radic, what should I get from the dealer then to prevent doing anything in this area in the near future?


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[zillarob]

The passenger side will often turn 45 degrees or so. It's not a big deal. You won't cause interference. Just reset it with the cam bar if you have it.

You can do it without the cam bar or crank lock pin. You just need something to lock the cams when you are tightening the bolts back down.

This is a 3-4 hour job if you do it right. Put it in service position instead of taking the front end off.
Always use dealership parts for timing components. NEVER ebay or "kits"

Ya, not a prob, but will make you jump

It can be done without the tools, its just a hackjob way of doing it. It will be +/- 1deg on the cams if done right. If you can get anywhere near that without the tools, buy a lotto ticket for me!

Can be done in 3-4hrs by somebody with exp, but not correctly as far as I am concerned. Prob 3-4hrs of cleaning and tuning up the other bs you will find along the way.

Realistically, for a first timer, it will take him most of sat, and some of sun to do it properly and address the other things he finds.
I would take it apart on sat and get back to the part where you roll the crank around 2x and make sure the tools fit back in.
Get a good night sleep.
Finish putting the rest back together sun. Should go pretty quick.

I would also strongly recommend doing the tensioners/vcg while you are in there. The dside tensioner is kinda hidden and there is no way to get in and clean it properly before putting the gasket in with the belt on.
If you do this it would be belt off, tensioner/vcg, belt on, sleep, finish up.

The only thing I can think of that is dealer specific is the water pump gasket. The pos paper ones that come with the pumps are a nightmare to get back off after they have petrified on there. The one the dealer will give you for our cars is a thick green waxy paper. It will come off cleanly next time. If you are feeling fancy, get the gasket for an 04 a4 with a 3.0 avk motor. Same price, but it is embossed metal and works well also.

[JordanBetch]

All the parts are on the way, will be here today and tomorrow. Picking up water pump gasket from dealer later on today... I did overlook my kit though and I do not have a new tensioner ordered... don't I need that?


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[zillarob]

Are you talking about the hydraulic tensioner, or the rocker gizmo it pushes on?
The hyd tensioner is a must.
The rocker thing is a coin toss. Ive done it both ways and never ran into a prob.
I do pull them apart, clean, and lube them up if I do though.

[JordanBetch]

Ordered the hydraulic tensioner.. baffles me it's not included in the kit. Gonna gamble with the rocker thingy, I don't see how it could really go bad... I will be doing some fine cleaning while I'm up in there though. I will probably be very active on this forum this weekend, haha.


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[zillarob]

They get a dimple where the hyd tensioner pushes on them and the metal dowel thing it rides on gets some gummy black stuff on it over time.
I dont know if dried lube or if the bushing is teflon coated or something, but I have wire wheeled them clean, lightly lubed, and reused with no probs.

The middle part should slide out after you get it off the motor. Has a little black oring that holds the rear washer on, but keep an eye on it.

I think its the eccentric roller that has the loose washer on the back. Be careful with this one, has been the cause of a few bad days (weeks).
New one will come with a clear piece of hose on the bolt to hold it all together in shipping. It comes off before install. Ive seen it

[JordanBetch]

Really dove into the project last night, and ran into a road block just before taking the timing belt covers off. Stripped hex bolt holding on the fan clutch.. not too large of an issue, but I also noticed my accessory belt tensioner had a decent amount of rust and the roller itself was making a clicking noise. So instead of finishing tomorrow like I planned, seems I'll be waiting on a new belt tensioner to finish the job. Lots of time to clean things up, and boy is it messy.


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