Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Not Coming Out of Spindle

[arjun90]

I think I tried everything except a proper Ball Joint Separator (my Gearwrench model doesn't seat in the spindle / ball joint area fully)

I did try using the ball joint separator pickle-fork which did no good.

I tried Direct Shock to the Spindle, also tried hitting the threaded portion of the ball joint (forgot to add nut to prevent damage to threads); did damage to a couple of threads and used an angle grinder to cut out of the defective threads.

Also tried OTC 2-Jaw Puller, which slipped as it couldn't grip the spindle fully.

I feel like I'm out of options here, and was very close to completing the Driver Side today.

What are the next steps I should take? Should I try a larger ball joint separator (purchase from Harbor Freight)?

Btw, sorry for the multiple threads on my suspension; just felt that each dilemma I came across deserved its own thread.



I even searched for other solutions (such as http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ed-like-a-mofo ) but no further solution available.

I just now sprayed the area with PB Blaster (liberally).

Aluminum uprights, not steel-type.

[AllroadMass]

https://youtu.be/L-0cvMxherU

This is what I have and works like a charm - search Amazon for Astro 78807 5-Piece Pickle Fork Ball Joint Separator Set

Sometimes I load the suspension (jack it up) to release some of the stress off the ball joint.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[arjun90]

Thanks, I've watched the Bentley Publishers video too many times now, lol. Unfortunately, doesn't address Northeast Winter Months.

I already removed the front lower control arm bolt from the subframe-side. It's the spindle-portion that's troubling me. I think I'll have to get the appropriately-sized ball joint separator (scissor-type) from Harbor Freight. The Gearwrench scissor-type Ball Joint Separator barely fits over the spindle and balljoint threads.

[PaperToast]

pry bar, a decent sized one, and man handle it out

end of story

[02 A6 2.7T]

Thanks, I've watched the Bentley Publishers video too many times now, lol. Unfortunately, doesn't address Northeast Winter Months.

I already removed the front lower control arm bolt from the subframe-side. It's the spindle-portion that's troubling me. I think I'll have to get the appropriately-sized ball joint separator (scissor-type) from Harbor Freight. The Gearwrench scissor-type Ball Joint Separator barely fits over the spindle and balljoint threads.

I have used this one from HF for several years and it works like a charm, every time ...

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

[arjun90]

Thanks, I'm on my way to Harbor Freight, hopefully this larger size should work.

I have used this one from HF for several years and it works like a charm, every time ...

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

[csosnowski]

Thanks, I'm on my way to Harbor Freight, hopefully this larger size should work.

You'll need to grind the throat of that tool out larger. The taper on all of our ball joints is too large to fit. I've used my modifed one many times and it holds up fine. Do not use an impact on the tool, it will strip the threads.

Since you have aluminum uprights, you'll want to be mindful of the steel inserts that may press out of the upright with the ball joint. These have to be reinstalled.

[arjun90]

Thanks, I just returned and used the ball joint separator from Harbor Freight and Voila, the Ball Joint successfully popped out. I didn't have to adjust the position of the separator much (probably due to the fact that I shaved off the first couple of threads from the ball joint with an angle grinder). At first I thought I damaged the tool (kept looking away as I was turning the ratchet)--but a closer inspection revealed the positive news. Used Deep Creep (Seaform) and PB Blaster in conjunction. I can now return the OTC Ball Joint Separator (which I also ordered yesterday). Won't really need the Astro Pneumatic Pickle-forks as well. I was very close to buying the entire OTC Front Service Kit (very good price, but not really needed for project enthusiasts working on one car).

Let me just that that Deep Creep is certainly worth the extra cost. I believe it contains Kroil and really penetrates the rust in areas which PB Blaster does not reach.