100,000 miles maintenance for A4 B7 2.0t Quattro?

[saadq12]

Hi all, I was wondering what recommended services you would have when hitting 100k miles (or 160,000 km).

Some info about my 2007 A4 2.0T Quattro; It had only one owner, lady driven to about 84k miles(or 136,000 km) then I acquired the car and have put around 20k miles (or 30,000 km) I have changed the oil/filter religiously every 5k miles(6000km) since ownership. I try my best to drive conservatively but I like flooring the pedal once in a while.

Things that have been done so far:
1. Just replaced Turbo w/ new gaskets(not new, it was slightly used but its working great...so far)
2. Changed Valve Cover Gasket as well as brand new Valve Cover screws
3. Changed Air Filter/Cabin Filter
4. Timing belt was replaced by previous owner(not sure about the water pump)
5. Brake Pads both rear and front have been changed
6. Battery was replaced.
7. Spark plugs replaced.
8. One coil went bad and threw a misfire code, replaced just that one.
9. Rotated the tyres (I want to get new rims and tires soon, any recommendations?)

Now I was thinking of changing the transmission oil, is this a good idea or not? please let me know what you guys think.

Thanks Very Much,

Saad Q

[Denio24]

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[KJack]

Tiptronic or manual? At 100k I would probably change it, but make sure you take it to an Audi-specific facility because it's a lot more complicated than most other cars. If you take it to "Bubba's Car Repair", he'll likely mess it up (I found that out the hard way). If you're doing it yourself, closely follow directions. Here is some of what to expect: A VagCom scanner is needed to monitor fluid temp during the fill process, very specific fluid is required depending on your build (G060162A2 is most common, I believe), and you may need to crawl under the car while it is running.

[Deckster]

There's a really good thread about this specifically (100k mile maintenance). Let me find it...

Found it!

Calling All B7's over 100k

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...9&share_type=t

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[80sGuy]

Yup, no joke when it comes to transmission fluid changes. Take it to the dealer or let 'Joe Blow' around the corner fuck up your car. Same with Timing Belt and water Pump which requires the whole front-end to be dropped, in other words - the bumper needed to be removed. Many different screws to deal with. My car just hit 59,000 and pretty soon it will need both the timing belt (with all rollers/tensioners) and water pump due to age (built in July 2007).

[80sGuy]

[adam044]

Yup, no joke when it comes to transmission fluid changes. Take it to the dealer or let 'Joe Blow' around the corner fuck up your car. Same with Timing Belt and water Pump which requires the whole front-end to be dropped, in other words - the bumper needed to be removed. Many different screws to deal with. My car just hit 59,000 and pretty soon it will need both the timing belt (with all rollers/tensioners) and water pump due to age (built in July 2007).

Easy there with "the whole front-end to be dropped" haha. The front bumper comes off in about 10-15mins. Definitely don't need to have the dealer do a timing belt, unless you want to pay way more than what's necessary. A good reliable mechanic can easily do that for you. I'm at 99k and getting mine done very soon.

And many people here do their own timing belts, not something in comfortable with but many people do them so definitely don't need the dealer for that.

I really don't plan to have any other 100k services done. Basically just check everything according to the service book. Probably just have them do a quick look over while the t belt is getting done.

[Theiceman]

cbeck your cam follower for sure
replace fuel filter
i would even change my thermostat and coolant flange. just because i love punishment and i wouldn't want to do it in february . they are cheap parts and the coolant flush wouldnt hurt
also flush brake fluid

[danbfree]

Tiptronic or manual? At 100k I would probably change it, but make sure you take it to an Audi-specific facility because it's a lot more complicated than most other cars. If you take it to "Bubba's Car Repair", he'll likely mess it up (I found that out the hard way). If you're doing it yourself, closely follow directions. Here is some of what to expect: A VagCom scanner is needed to monitor fluid temp during the fill process, very specific fluid is required depending on your build (G060162A2 is most common, I believe), and you may need to crawl under the car while it is running.

Definitely needs to be done with VAG COM to monitor fluid temp and all that, so an Audi specialist is the way to go... But as far as the fluid, it doesn't have to be 100% specifically Audi OEM in the late '06+, you can use the ZF (OEM, just under trans builders name) fluid under $20 a liter from FCPEuro or even Redline-D4 which comes in a complete service kit with filter and gasket for $190 from JHM or around $13 quart separate.

[Okedokey]

Carbon clean if it was driven by an old lady for 80K.

[danbfree]

Carbon clean if it was driven by an old lady for 80K.

+1 definitely not a bad idea. I know mine is about to hit 97k and it idles smoother after driving it hard so I know it could probably use it as well.

[drewgold]

+1 definitely not a bad idea. I know mine is about to hit 97k and it idles smoother after driving it hard so I know it could probably use it as well.

It sounds trivial but one thing on the scheduled maintenance list that I'm sure is often ignored is checking/cleaning the sunroof and plenum drains. I neglected to do this and had to spend a day trying to dry out a wet headliner. Pita. Do it before you regret it! I'm at 110k miles.

[keaton85]

Definitely needs to be done with VAG COM to monitor fluid temp and all that, so an Audi specialist is the way to go... But as far as the fluid, it doesn't have to be 100% specifically Audi OEM in the late '06+, you can use the ZF (OEM, just under trans builders name) fluid under $20 a liter from FCPEuro or even Redline-D4 which comes in a complete service kit with filter and gasket for $190 from JHM or around $13 quart separate.

Not really, last time I changed my fluid out I popped off the top ATF cooler hose and ran the car to pump the fluid out into a container. Refilled with the amount that came out, done! If I remove X and put X back in, why would I need to check to see if magic happened and I ended up with Y? Also, I would go with D6 over D4 fluid personally. BUT I would scan and check tranny software number to confirm fluid requirements.

[Harddrive]

Not really, last time I changed my fluid out I popped off the top ATF cooler hose and ran the car to pump the fluid out into a container. Refilled with the amount that came out, done! If I remove X and put X back in, why would I need to check to see if magic happened and I ended up with Y? Also, I would go with D6 over D4 fluid personally. BUT I would scan and check tranny software number to confirm fluid requirements.

Dude, you do realize that the volume of the fluid changes with temperature right? If the temp of the fluid that you pumped out is significantly different from the cold fluid you pumped in, then then you can't be sure of an equal swap. Just saying bro.

[atvhead]

you really dont need a vagcom for it though, i used a temp probe insterted into the fill port on the pan. Maybe not as accurate as the vagcom? but, all seems swell.

it is an odd feeling being under your car while its running though...

[oVeRdOsE]

- all fluids change ( oil, coolant, power-steering, brake, clutch, transmission, diff)
- all filters ( air, cabin, fuel, oil, power-steering)
- to check : timing belt, diverter valve, cam follower, aligment, carbon built, sparkplug

Nice to have before : magnetic oil drain plug for engine oil and transmission oil , if manual.

[danbfree]

Not really, last time I changed my fluid out I popped off the top ATF cooler hose and ran the car to pump the fluid out into a container. Refilled with the amount that came out, done! If I remove X and put X back in, why would I need to check to see if magic happened and I ended up with Y? Also, I would go with D6 over D4 fluid personally. BUT I would scan and check tranny software number to confirm fluid requirements.

If you had both fluids the EXACT same temperature, car sat for a couple of days with bottles of new fluid in the same garage, then ya, otherwise not a good idea so I'm going to have my shop do it for me... Thanks for the tip on the D6 though, but the JHM kit comes with D4 and meets that Shell spec for the updated green fill I need so I hope I'm good... I already confirmed through my VIN and build date what I needed.

[danbfree]

- all fluids change ( oil, coolant, power-steering, brake, clutch, transmission, diff)
- all filters ( air, cabin, fuel, oil, power-steering)
- to check : timing belt, diverter valve, cam follower, aligment, carbon built, sparkplug

Nice to have before : magnetic oil drain plug for engine oil and transmission oil , if manual.

Very good list, but are sure there is a power steering filter or did you just mean service with new fluid? ! I know mine was serviced once at 62k so I think I'm good until 120k? I'm almost at 97k now and focusing on doing my trans service first, but I'm curious now...

[Denio24]

Very good list, but are sure there is a power steering filter or did you just mean service with new fluid? ! I know mine was serviced once at 62k so I think I'm good until 120k? I'm almost at 97k now and focusing on doing my trans service first, but I'm curious now...

There is a little power steering filter in the reservoir. People usually remove the reservoir and just clean it out with break clean.

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[danbfree]

There is a little power steering filter in the reservoir. People usually remove the reservoir and just clean it out with break clean.

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Thanks for clarifying!

[S4NIK8]

The thermal expansion isn't very much % wise, if it's that much of a concern just weigh the fluid that comes out and add back the same weight in new fluid.

[oVeRdOsE]

There is a little power steering filter in the reservoir. People usually remove the reservoir and just clean it out with break clean.

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yeah, thanks for clarifying . changing it might be overkill and overprice. Cleaning it is the way to go.

[atvhead]

I did the PS fluid in mine at 100k, it was like night and day. I highly recommend it.

[Deckster]

Are there any write ups for changing all the fluids in the car? I have a 6MT and I'm looking to flush all the fluids. (other then break fluid since that was done when I did my rear calipers)


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[miA4]

What about the rear cam chain and tensioner

[danbfree]

What about the rear cam chain and tensioner

Isn't that like 150k+ as needed? Otherwise I'd liek to know too.

[wding2000]

The thermal expansion isn't very much % wise, if it's that much of a concern just weigh the fluid that comes out and add back the same weight in new fluid.

From my experience, it expands a lot. Otherwise, Audi (or ZF as a matter of fact) will not need to specify refill temp at 30-50C. It is on the bottom of trans pan.

[Denio24]

Isn't that like 150k+ as needed? Otherwise I'd liek to know too.

Mine started ticking on cold start in warm weather at 125k. Id say anywhere between 100 and 150k.

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[billyhoyle]

Check your motor mounts, low pressure fuel pump duty (vag com), control arms/sway bar links could be inspected, get and carry a spare coil pack if you only replaced one, lube anything that can be lubed (hinges, sunroof, hood latch, etc.), shocks/springs should be inspected at least...and there's definitely more you could do

[Okedokey]

You should replace the CVT fluid every 30K, and other transmissions 50K imho.

[danbfree]

You should replace the CVT fluid every 30K, and other transmissions 50K imho.

Ya, that's not a bad idea, 60k is a nice round number for a Tip too... Sooner doesn't hurt at all, I've seen a range of 40-75k and it's one of those things that most people don't bother with just because it's not on the maintenance schedule, which blows my mind... "lifetime" is very disingenuous, it seems like all they care about is selling you a whole new trans after the warranty runs out.

[danbfree]

Mine started ticking on cold start in warm weather at 125k. Id say anywhere between 100 and 150k.

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Hmm, I think I noticed a bit of clicking on start up in warm weather myself at 95k so I'll have to plan on doing it late spring unless I notice it happening again sooner.

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[S4NIK8]

From my experience, it expands a lot. Otherwise, Audi (or ZF as a matter of fact) will not need to specify refill temp at 30-50C. It is on the bottom of trans pan.

they do this so there is a SOP for servicing. The transmission system is fairly large and is not sensitive to level changes in the range we are talking about for expansion. That being said doing it by the sop is always best practice but there is nothing wrong with matching volume and refilling.

[Okedokey]

they do this so there is a SOP for servicing. The transmission system is fairly large and is not sensitive to level changes in the range we are talking about for expansion. That being said doing it by the sop is always best practice but there is nothing wrong with matching volume and refilling.

The density and therefore volume is highly dependent on temperature. Look up the MSDS and you will see the coefficients.

[S4NIK8]

The msds for ZF 6 only lists a density at 15c; if there's a different one or you can find me data showing significant changes in volume based on temperature I'd like to see it.


- this is getting way off topic, sorry OP

[hypermoto]

My 2006 Avant 2.0 just crossed the 100k (miles) mark, running great. Here is a list of what I've done, any thoughts or suggestions? Appreciate it, cheers.

-Redtop coils & Spark Plugs (72k)
-Front Brakes & Fluid Flush (92k) (currently fronts 12mm, rears 6mm)
-OEM timing belt kit (80k)
-Oil Changes every 5k
-Liqui Moly 2001 Valve Clean (every ~20k)
-Air/Cabin Filters always checked and replaced as needed

Current Issues:
-Glovebox hinge broke. Too lazy to fix now its cold.
-Rear Hatch Struts lift to about 75%, then you have to manually open the rest of the way. Is this normal, or do they need replacement?
-Engine Battery Cover & Undertray are missing...do I really need them?
-Tires are at 5/32...feel fine, but snow is coming...when should I replace?
-Cam Follower. I've asked a couple reputable Independent Shops and my Audi Dealer, and they always say do nothing until you get a CEL for it?
-CEL for P0299 underboost has been on for 10k+. Car runs perfectly fine, so just ignored it.

[Theiceman]

Wow do not Iook at cam follower I till you get a cel ? Man that would be an expensive repair.
Check follower asap. In fact I would just change it asap. Forget checking it. If you have never checked it in 100k it is likely punched.

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