Oil Drain Bolt Torque Specs?

[Pyromatic177]

I tried searching for this and didn't find anything. How tight do you guys have your drain bolt? I torqued mine at 18lbs with a new crush washer and it's leaking it appears as its dripping oil on the ground.

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

Few things... check it and see if it's really dripping from there or from somewhere else. Newbies doing oil changes tend to botch the filter canister seals or when they take the filter out they leak excessive oil on the back side of the engine and that can sometimes manifest itself as oil leaking as you describe. Also, make sure you're using an OEM crush washer. Some of the flat ones like ECS sells don't seat properly with the OEM bolt. I can't tell you what I tighten mine at, but I have to be meticulous about centering the crush washer as I slowly tighten the bolt down so it doesn't get off-center. Once I'm happy with the seating, I crank down on it with my hand until I feel it's crushed and tight enough to there it won't back out. I use a simple allen wrench to do this, so there's really no way for me to tighten it way too much. It's a feel thing honestly... I know, that doesn't help much, but it's what I do and have never had any problems.

[CELison]

Just do it by feel. But as stated above, make sure it's not coming from the seals on the filter housing.

[SDBolts]

If you're going to change your own oil, I loved having a Fumoto Oil Drain Plug in my Subaru. Just so much easier and cleaner to change the oil.

I haven't taken the cover off my S4 underneath though, so not sure if it will fit between the pan and the cover yet.

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

If you're going to change your own oil, I loved having a Fumoto Oil Drain Plug in my Subaru. Just so much easier and cleaner to change the oil.

I haven't taken the cover off my S4 underneath though, so not sure if it will fit between the pan and the cover yet.

Not a good idea since the drain is on the bottom flat side of the pan and that valve would stick downward. Those valves work well in setups where the drain bolt goes into the side of the pan. Just my opinion, but I've seen a guy with one on a car who's drain hold was similar to the S4 and he clipped it hitting something in the road and it wasn't a pretty sight afterwards... that car too had skid plates made of plastic like the S4 does and it didn't help save it from this issue.

[Pyromatic177]

Yeah, no newbie here. But thanks. I took the pan off and it is the drain bolt. It isn't an OEM crush washer though. It's from ECS but it isn't the ECS ones. That may be it...

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

That's probably it. Go grab some OEM ones from Audi if you can. They're pretty cheap... just by a few at a time. If you do oil changes every 10k, 5 would last you 50k, so yeah, that's a lot of miles for a couple of bucks.

[Pyromatic177]

Depending on how bad the leak is if it persists I may play it out that way I'm not wasting good oil changing the washer

[EHesh14]

Has anyone had any experience with one of these

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4...lug/ES3131945/

Seems like an easy alternative to the fumoto valve

[S4'ed]

I have had them leak too, even with the correct audi crush washer....I usually have to "gorilla" it tight to get it leak free. I can't imagine how Audi can screw up a drain plug design.....

Since the 3.0T plug is on the bottom of the pan, don't use a Fumoto, or anything else that hangs down....you are asking for trouble....

[Pyromatic177]

Has anyone had any experience with one of these

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4...lug/ES3131945/

Seems like an easy alternative to the fumoto valve

Thats what's on my car currently lol. Figured I'd give it a shot. As long as the provided crush washer does it's job...

[Pyromatic177]

After tightening it again it's still leaking. How tight do I go before I say screw it and replace the crush washer? Lol

[jygesq]

After tightening it again it's still leaking. How tight do I go before I say screw it and replace the crush washer? Lol

another reason dealers and many others drain oil from dipstick tube on top with a suction pump.

[Pyromatic177]

I see that lol.

[j1n]

another reason dealers and many others drain oil from dipstick tube on top with a suction pump.

This is what i do now and it makes it 10x easier.

also since the filter is accessible from the top there is no need to ever jack it up.

[Pyromatic177]

Yeah I'll look into that now after this crap.

[CELison]

It takes 15 minutes to jump under the car, drain the oil, change the filter, then fill it back up. I don't see the point of buying a suction pump if you have 2 jacks stands and 6mm allen.

[j1n]

It takes 15 minutes to jump under the car, drain the oil, change the filter, then fill it back up. I don't see the point of buying a suction pump if you have 2 jacks stands and 6mm allen.

I have a big plastic cover on the bottom of the car that needs to be taken off to get the the drain bolt.

Its annoying going under the car.

Suckin the oil out is less work and much faster.

You dont have an issue with drain bolt torque and leaks.

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

This is what i do now and it makes it 10x easier.

also since the filter is accessible from the top there is no need to ever jack it up.

It takes 15 minutes to jump under the car, drain the oil, change the filter, then fill it back up. I don't see the point of buying a suction pump if you have 2 jacks stands and 6mm allen.

Hell, I don't even jack up the car. I have a fairly shallow oil drain pan that fits under the car without it needing to be jacked up. I just have to stretch a little bit to catch the back three hex screws for the AK, but other than that, all the other fasteners for the skid plate are easy to get to and take off/put on. Simple, simple.

Also, that valve from ECS the OP has on, the screw in part sticks up in to the pan by a few mm at least and causes a ridge inside the pan just like the Fumato valve would, which keeps some of the old oil from draining completely out... yet another reason not to use those kinds of valves with this drain location setup. I have to admit, that ECS valve is kinda appealing to me from a product standpoint, more so than the Fumato one, but I'd rather have all my old oil drain out completely. If the drain location was in another spot on the side of the pan, I'd probably use something like that. Oh well, good luck OP. Just use the stock bolt and OEM crush washers and it won't leak.

[Pyromatic177]

As you stated about there being some leftover oil. Wont the extractor also do the same? I thought it did...

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

As you stated about there being some leftover oil. Wont the extractor also do the same? I thought it did...

Yes, which is why I like doing it the old school way. But that's just my choice, you don't have to do it. I was just telling you guys why I choose to do it a certain way, that's all.

[CELison]

Yes, which is why I like doing it the old school way. But that's just my choice, you don't have to do it. I was just telling you guys why I choose to do it a certain way, that's all.

I'm with him. It takes no thought, skill, or time to change oil.

[Pyromatic177]

Yes, which is why I like doing it the old school way. But that's just my choice, you don't have to do it. I was just telling you guys why I choose to do it a certain way, that's all.

You make a point. Which I never thought about till you mentioned it. I just wanted to try out the valve cause why not.

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

You make a point. Which I never thought about till you mentioned it. I just wanted to try out the valve cause why not.

It's definitely much cooler than the Fumato one, so I too like it, but just wish that it wouldn't cause that ridge inside the pan which would keep that little bit of oil from draining. Darn...

[Pyromatic177]

Yeah and unless the pad that's on the pan is soaked with oil. My car seems to be losing a decent amount. My car sat for 3 hours and there was a paper plate sized spot underneath of oil. But it appears to be dirty oil which is odd because there isn't even 100 miles on the new oil

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

Yeah and unless the pad that's on the pan is soaked with oil. My car seems to be losing a decent amount. My car sat for 3 hours and there was a paper plate sized spot underneath of oil. But it appears to be dirty oil which is odd because there isn't even 100 miles on the new oil

Take your skidplate off tonight and put a paper plate or towel directly under the drain bolt and see if it's really coming from there. The DSG can leak the same way and depending on how many times that's happened, (if it's just once), it could also be the engine mounts, but I doubt that... they too are filled with a dark oil-like fluid.

[Pyromatic177]

It's dripping from the drain plug. One particular side of the crush washer is where it's coming from. I have new OEM washers coming

[Pyromatic177]

Tried 2 new OEM washers with no success. Still dripping. It did the same before I did the oil change as well. I'm thinking there's something wrong with the oil pan because the crush washers have little divots in them after they're used and I think it's coming from that area. Gonna have to schedule an appointment for the car.

[BABurgman]

Drain Plug - 22 flt lbs.

[Whistle]

Mine leaked after my last oil change as well. I have the ECS magnetic drain plug and replace the crush washer every time. I've done lots of oil changes by now and never had one leak so I was surprised to see this issue.

Had to clean the mess out of the belly pan padding...what a mess.

Snugged it up just a bit tighter though and it's been fine for me ever since.

The oil extractor would be the cat's meow though. No more rolling around in the filth like a peasant.

[14S4GWM]

^ Lots of complaints about the ecs drain plug leaking. Keep an eye on it.

[Whistle]

Yeah? I hadn't heard issues before. Guess it will get swapped out for the next oil change then.

This is what I've got - different from the OP's - he's got the fumoto-like drain

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4...lug/ES3006076/

[Pyromatic177]

Mine leaked after my last oil change as well. I have the ECS magnetic drain plug and replace the crush washer every time. I've done lots of oil changes by now and never had one leak so I was surprised to see this issue.

Had to clean the mess out of the belly pan padding...what a mess.

Snugged it up just a bit tighter though and it's been fine for me ever since.

The oil extractor would be the cat's meow though. No more rolling around in the filth like a peasant.

I wish that was the case with mine. But I go tighter with no avail.

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

Switch back to OEM bold and crush washer. Tighten it till it doesn't tighten any more. If it still leaks you're either not doing something right or there's an issue with the drain opening on the pan. The OEM crush washer should be almost flat in an area more than the rest and the bolt should be like super tight... it you snug it down and you can still turn it with an allen wrench, it's not tight enough. That's all I can tell you bro.

[Pyromatic177]

Switch back to OEM bold and crush washer. Tighten it till it doesn't tighten any more. If it still leaks you're either not doing something right or there's an issue with the drain opening on the pan. The OEM crush washer should be almost flat in an area more than the rest and the bolt should be like super tight... it you snug it down and you can still turn it with an allen wrench, it's not tight enough. That's all I can tell you bro.

I did that. Which makes me think the oil pan is messed up...

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

Post a pic of the OEM washers you got. Both sides if you can please... a new one that is, not used... unless you have one of those too and I'll tell you if it's crushed down enough/properly.

[DGVR6]

Can you thread the bolt in with your fingers ? If there's resistance, you've most likely cross threaded it

[maksym]

Sorry for reviving, this thread pops up as a 1st match in Google so figured might as well post an answer. The drain bolt plug is 30Nm.

[ellwood]

Sorry for reviving, this thread pops up as a 1st match in Google so figured might as well post an answer. The drain bolt plug is 30Nm.

something to consider is that torque specs are listed for unlubricated (dry) bolts unless otherwise specified. your drain plug will be covered in oil (a lubricant) upon reassembly... therefore, i personally would not blindly apply 30Nm. as others have mentioned, torque the oil pan drain bolt by hand using an OEM crush washer until sufficiently snug

[BigKeshy]

Per the service manual: Oil drain plug torque spec is 30N*m (22.13 lbf*ft)

Edit: I'm a derp. I did not realize the dates this thread was originally posted or that it was necro-bumped. Ignore me.